sigoshi

Overheating and the squeaky noise will have likely tripped the fuse on your PI. This fuse apparently is slow to reset, so giving it plenty of time was the proper thing to do. If your red light was flashing at all, that indicates a likely issue with the power supply. Double check that your power supply supplies 5 volts and at least 800 milliamps. If it still causes problems, replace it. If your green light comes on but the PI still doesn't boot, then your SD card is somehow readable by the pi without anything for it to do. This is a fairly strange situation, but simply reformatting the card and reinstalling NOOBS should rectify the situation. If you weren't doing anything intensive on the pi that might have caused the overheating, I suspect your power supply is faulty, and could damage your pi. If you were doing something that might have overheated the pi, get heatsinks, a vented case, or even fans to help cool it down. If you already are cooling your pi, then lighten up on the workload you're giving it!...

There are 4 LEDs, on the pi, two for the Ethernet port, and two separate ones. I assume you mean the separate ones, as these indicate power. Red is for power on. It being constantly on is nothing but an indicator that you raspberry pi is getting power. Its connected directly to the power source, and does not indicate any code running on the pi. Green is for SD card. It being off indicates that your SD card is not properly set up to boot the PI. follow the instructions for NOOBS to properly prepare your pi.

The BT antenna in the blue joycon is pcb etched, just on the outside of the joystick. I don’t see it on the red joycon pcb at all, though.

okay, i finished putting it back together. gamecube works fine and surprisingly still remembers what year it is. boots into smash bros and shows memory card contents fine.

presumably nothing major. The CMOS battery is attached to the controller ports, so the most i'd expect is that the gamecube loses it's date/time setting. As long as you reset that before jumping into animal crossing or something, you should be fine. I'm currently doing a teardown of my gamecube, and if something does prove to have gone wrong, i'll report back.

Itd be nice if we got a pic comparing the internals to an old yellow nerf recon (if you have one). I wonder how much changes between generations.

The angle of the picture here makes it appear like the head phone jack needs to be slid out of the top of the phone. This is impossible due to small bits of plastic holding it in at the top. If you're having trouble, the headphone jack is in fact supposed to lift straight up out of the phone.

It's worth noting that there are spots for Tag Connect connectors for interfacing with the wireless radio chip and the main controller. The radio's is marked radio right underneath it, and the main controller's is marked debug, and is down to the left. Hopefully valve releases a more open source firmware soon so we can have the open controller of our dreams!

The triggers can actually be further disassembled- there is a small screw hidden underneath that separates the trigger from the actual mechanical frame. This means that all external faces of the controller can be separated from mechanical or electrical components, which will make Counter Strike-esque paint jobs a breeze!

Considering how frequently the optical drives in the original Wii went out, the primary reason for the big one in the Wii u is likely longevity.

So uh... This isn't an official GameCube controller. The official ones have Nintendo branding above the start button as well as a differently colored mainboard and tri-wing screws instead of Phillips. There are other slight differences in some components too. Do you mind someone else redoing this teardown with an official controller?