On the console shown in this article, difficulty switches are on the back upper edge (visible above the cartridge port in the photo above at Step 2 of this guide). This puts each player’s difficulty switch just inboard of his or her controller port.
On consoles with 6 silver-colored front panel switches, the switch nearest the cartridge port on each side is the difficulty switch.
All screws are #2 Phillips, not #0.
The article you linked mentions "two sizes of self-tapping screw". Self-tapping screws were only used in the consoles with six switches on the front, from the first two production runs. The issue was resolved by the time those with four front switches were made, like the one used for illustration of this article.
The "anyone's guess" comment was inappropriate. The system owner's manual mentions in section 5 that position "A" is generally more difficult than position "B". Every game instruction manual described exactly what the functions of the difficulty switches were for that game, if they did anything at all. There are a few games which were inadvertently made with difficulty settings reversed from the standard.
Also, the TIA is not a 6505 as Step 9 states. According to Hyperlink (last image) the 6505 is only 28 pins (the TIA is 40), and according to Hyperlink the 6505 is a feature-reduced version of the 6502 CPU, much as the 6507 is.
This photo should be replaced, as it shows incorrect routing of the RF cable (apparently someone has opened this console before). From the RCA socket on the motherboard, the cable should be placed thus: first, it should go toward the *front* of the console (from a player's perspective; i.e. "southwest" as the console is positioned in the present photo) alongside the main EMI shield, and between that shield and the RF modulator unit. Then it should turn 90 degrees toward the player's right and be pressed into the slot in the top of the fat round post. Then it should make another gentle 90 degree turn to head toward the rear of the console and be pressed in place between the small hollow post and the fin beside it, which supports the case top. Proceeding rearward, the cable may either be pressed between the pair of fins, or between the rightmost fin and the case side (as the pair of fins are actually a bit too close to one another) before winding around the remaining plastic bits to finally make its exit from the rear of the case.
The reason for the case being so large was that originally it included two speakers for stereo audio output. These were deleted at the last minute in favor of mono audio through the TV as a cost-saving measure, but the very earliest 6-switch consoles have circular-layout speaker slots in the top and support posts cast into the case bottom. In fact, it took Atari quite a long time to completely close off the speaker slots, as even some of the 4-switch models (like the one used here) still have them. I've even seen case tops with speaker slots on only one side!
Sobald er das hat, wird er in der Lage sein, eine Grafik zu seiner im Laufe der Zeit erlangten Reputation zu sehen.
Hier ist eine Vorschau, wie die Grafik aussehen wird:
Noch keine Reputation erlangt.