Zachary Lunte

I’m planning to use a Crest P1200HT ultrasonic cleaner with 2 gallons of distilled water and 200 mL of Branson EC to clean...

A while back I took the 2018 ACMT exam via Pearson Vue using a Tech ID, having first worked through the ATLAS training...

We opened up this machine to inspect the internals and found this strange tube floating freely inside the system. It was...

Machine was unable to power on. I tried an SMC reset, and the charger light changed so I know it went through and that the...

The machine has failed in a way that makes it unusable (shuts off when in use, soon after powering on). I believe the...

When connected to a 12W wall charger the iPad will power on and show the Apple logo for about 5 to 8 seconds and then it...

The main issue here is that sometimes during boot up it fails and shows the prohibitory symbol (circle with slash through...

The machine itself will not power on. I have tried an SMC reset, but it had no effect. I’ve tried multiple chargers in all...

I recently replaced the top case on a MacBook (Retina, 12-inch, Early 2015). The original top case had sticky keys and I...

I’m assuming the issue is caused by a damaged display and that I would need to replace the display assembly to resolve the...

From the video it sounds like the noise could be the result of something underneath the power button keycap, but that would not explain your other symptoms. Where does the noise seem to come from within the machine? Is it loudest near the power button itself or near some other component? The only other moving part in your system is the fan, so it might be a good idea to remove the bottom panel, open the machine on its side, and observe the fan when hitting the power button. Another possible theory is that when you're trying to power on the machine, the system is actually already on but in a frozen sleep state. So in other words, when you hold down the power button to start it you're actually forcing the frozen system to power off (Mac has a feature where if you hold the power button for about 5 second it forces the machine to power off). Forcing the machine to power off like this sometimes produces a click noise (I think this is because the fan suddenly stops). You can check to see if the system is...

Try disconnecting the display cable, inspecting the pins both on the cable side and the port side for damage, dusting them with compressed air, then carefully reseat the cable. If that doesn’t help, you can try replacing the cable itself (cheaper than replacing the display). In my experience though, this specific visual glitch is normally due to damage to the display assembly itself and not an issue with the display cable. It may also be worth checking with an external monitor to verify the issue is not with the graphics, but rather the hardware of the display. My best guess is that the display assembly itself is damaged and would need to be replaced.

Someone posted a very similar question a while back. They decided to replace the display assembly and this fixed the issue. Here’s the other internal display only works when an external display is connected.

In Step 4 of this teardown you can see that the LCD cable in the 2019 differs from the 2017. You can find the 2019 displays from individual sellers online, here’s a link to an eBay post. Hope this helps!

Here are some things you can try: 1) With the charger plugged in, press and hold the power button for about 10 seconds. Then press the power button again. If the machine still does not power on, move onto the next step 2) Attempt to reset the SMC. After resetting the SMC, attempt to power on. If you still aren’t able to power on, move onto the next step 3) Try using a separate known-good charger. If you don’t have access to a charger you can take it to a tech shop and ask them if they can try to charge it as a free service. If it charges using a separate charger there may be an issue with your charger and it might need to be replaced. If none of these steps work for you there may be a hardware issue with your machine. If that’s the case I would recommend having it diagnosed by a Mac repair shop. If you’re feeling adventurous you can try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, but be forewarned that these models can be a little tricky to open safely. Here’s a guide for accessing the battery.

I did a search for 7292 in a PDF of the schematics for the MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) and it returned no results. Also couldn’t find it by using board view software. Are you sure there’s a component labeled C7292 in the schematic?

If you’re able to use an external monitor without any issues we can be pretty confident the cause of the problem is either the display, the display cable, or the display connector on the logic board. Since you replaced the display cable, the issue is likely due to a failed display or a damaged display connector on the logic board. I would recommend inspecting the connector for signs of damage. If it looks good, you may need to find a separate known-good display to troubleshoot the issue. My hunch is that the display itself is damaged and is the cause of the issue.

The flashing folder with a question mark indicates that the system is unable to locate a bootable storage drive. This could be due to a number of reasons. The most common causes are the following: 1) The storage drive is not properly connected, possibly due to a damaged connector on the logic board or due to a damaged drive, 2) The storage drive itself has been erased and has no operating system installed. I would recommend carefully removing the flash storage drive, inspecting the pins on the drive and the condition of the port on the logic board for damage, and then reinstalling the drive if there appears to be no damage. If that doesn’t help you can also boot into Internet Recovery Mode by holding Option+Command+R during startup. From Disk Utility in Internet Recovery Mode you will be able to see all attached storage drives. If the drive is not shown there you can be pretty confident there is a connection issue with the drive, either due to the logic board or the drive itself.

Looking at this resource for more information on those additional codes, my best guess is that either the trackpad itself has failed and is regularly corrupting the SMC, or one of the components or communication channels on the logic board is damaged and causing SMC issues. To resolve you may need to replace the logic board or the trackpad, though I would be more suspicious of the logic board considering the TGPro results.

The first thing I would recommend trying is an SMC reset. In addition to resetting the SMC this will help you determine that the power button is still functional (if the MagSafe 2 LED light changes from orange to green during the SMC reset you know the keys pressed are sending a signal). If it doesn’t power on after an SMC reset, then you’ll need to do some troubleshooting to isolate which components are preventing power on. Assuming you are using the correct charger wattage (85 W for the 15-inch model), your model should be able to run with the battery disconnected and the charger connected. By disconnecting the battery and attempting to power on with just the charger connected you can rule out the battery as a cause of power on issues. If the system still does not power on, you’ll need to isolate further. Although I doubt it would be preventing power on you can disconnect the I/O board by following this guide. You can continue to disconnect various components from the logic board, testing if able to...