Owen Cunneely

I had a customer bring me an iPhone 6 that they said was left out in the sun for an extended period of time. They said it...

I recently picked up a Surface Pro 4, and I love almost everything about it. There is one behavior, however, that puzzles...

After pulling everything out of this iPad mini, screen, digitizer, LCD backplate, in the top of the casing I found this...

Okay, so here is the deal. I have a 2008 mkV GTI that I have owned since it was new. I have had this problem going on for...

I was just wondering, since the MacBook Pro is a quad-core computer, if anyone knows a way to basically sleep 2 of the 4...

I have a MacBook Pro in my house that has experienced dramatically decreasing battery life. Most of the time, I see the...

So, just a quick question here. We recently had some new school rules and one of them is any personal devices you bring to...

This question is pretty self explanatory, can I require a password to shut my computer down? I have several important...

I have a question today that seems simple, but I have yet to come across a good answer for it. I have a pc rack mount...

Okay, I really need lots of help with this. Recently our broadband has been cutting out and we loose phone and internet to...

I took the I/O board out and found that a screw head had gotten underneath the wifi card sand was causing a short. The screw was loose and it would explain why it froze when I was moving it. Thank you for your help.

Error 70 with the 7D relates to a battery problem. I would first, take the battery out and see if it is damaged or leaking in any way. If it is not, get some Isopropyl or contact cleaner and carefully clean the battery contacts on the battery itself and the corresponding ones in the camera. If that doesn't work, it might be time to try a new battery. Is this error something that is happening occasionally, or does it happen all the time and completely prevent the camera from functioning normally?

The larger end of the connector is placed on the LCD panel board. The white numbers you see on the cable will face towards you when you're plugging the cable into the LCD panel (so they would face the back of the iMac housing when installed). Your replacement cable does not have these white markings, however, so I'd overlay it to see what direction it needs to be plugged in. If you're looking at the back side of the display, it should look like this (the same way you have it in the pictures, just with the backside of the display behind it): The display side of the connecter has two release clips on either side. Gently pinch the connector from the two furthest points and slide it in without using much force. When you're going to put the screen back on the iMac and plug the smaller end of the cable into the logic board, it is essential you get the display as close to the computer as possible (smallest gap to work with unfortunately....), make sure the retaining clip is on the top of the connector so it can...

This is a problem with the inherent design of these boards. One RAM slot is attached via through-hole soldering on the logic board, and rarely fails. The other is attached through BGA, and is very easy to break if the slot is bent or computer dropped or one of Jupiter's moons goes on the far side of the planet. It's something that needs care when working on the board, and it sounds like you may have one bad slot. I've yet to see both go bad at the same time. Since you said you have 16 GB of RAM, you will have an 8 GB card in each slot. I would start out by removing both RAM cards and only inserting one in the top/closest slot. Run the computer with 8GB and see what happens. If you get no errors, it is likely the BGA soldering on the further RAM slot. If that doesn't fix it, try just one RAM card in the bottom/furthest slot. It may be the top slow somehow failed in a strange twist of fate, that is what we're here to find out. An actual RAM slot replacement is not something easy or at all straightforward,...

Did you consider cleaning anything before plugging the magsafe in to charge the laptop? The flowing liquid is only half the problem when it comes to spilling something on your computer. The deposits that are left behind, even after weeks of drying, can still be enough to short out components and render a MB useless until board level repair can be performed. From what it sounds like, something on your board definitely did short out and will need to be repaired. Your magsafe board sounds like it is working perfectly fine, especially if it is is indicating the charge state of the computer. This would suggest something outside the onewire circuit on your board is causing the issues. Pictures of the areas you refer to as having "small burn/fry mark(s)" may be helpful, and one step you could try is removing the logic board and giving it a good clean down in either an ultrasonic bath, if you have one, or a soft brush and 91% or higher isopropyl. It would be good to take detailed photos of the board before you do...

No, I don't even want to think of how much could go wrong and how much money would be wasted going for just this visual effect. It is difficult enough for someone with all the right tools to separate the LCD from the glass, furthermore, you would need to source a new frame for the display. If you somehow find all of that, and some optical adhesive, then you still need to find out whether or not they will bond properly, how the LCD will fit compared to the sides, and many other small ideas that would most likely pop up. If it's all for a look, just get the screen protector, or wait till someone starts selling preassembled screens with gold color, like they have for the 5s. -Hope this Helps

I attribute this problem to the pre-Intel processors in these computers. They require very specific system files, and I am rarely able to move one hard drive from powerbook to powerbook. I would recommend you pick up an original install disk on the cheap from somewhere like eBay. One in usable condition will probably run you about $20, and it's easy to install and get it up and running. I've tried doing this with several PowerBooks and iBooks in the past, and it seems the further apart in manufacturing years they are, the less likely the hard drives can be interchanged. Good thing we're now in the universal world of Intel! -Hope this Helps

Problem solved, it was this piece. I took one from a broken iPad 2 LCD and the backlight now works like a charm. I was very worried at first that a fuse had gone. If anyone else has this problem on an iPad mini with retina, check this small clip. The backlight plug may look like it is in, but it need pressure on it to actually work. Hope this can help someone in the future.

Problem was resolved. Looks like it was actually the car's Central Electronics Control Module (CECM) that was defective. Luckily I have a very good local repair shop that fixed it in no time. All lights work perfectly now.

Hello Robert, I looked at the guide, and from the steps and tools used, it should be hard to rip the ribbon cable if the battery is pried in the correct locations. However, anything can happen when performing a repair, and in this case, the part you broke is very inexpensive. At this point, if you are feeling confident, then I would just get a new cable and install it, job done. However, if you don't want to go through that process and risk damaging anything else, I am sure a local repair shop could help you with solving the problem. If I was close to you, I'd even help you fix it, but I don't believe I am in the same country. If you do want to get the part, you can find it here. iPhone 5s Audio Control and Power Button Cable The easiest thing to break when installing it is actually the cable itself, so again, I would be careful. If you want any more advice, or have more questions about installing the part, feel free to reply. Hopefully you can get your phone sorted out soon. Hope this answer helps!

Aside from the difference in how easy they are to work on, this camera really reminds me of the G4 Cube. If only it was as easy as a Cube to work on!