Infexus Bytez

I recently performed a screen replacement on a Surface Pro 3. The old screen came out with a bit of elbow grease, but...

Well, I don't know if you're still needing it. With the Hydro Reach, you need to remove the screen assembly first. Much like the J series Samsung messaging phones. Under the screen are the connectors for the digitizer and LCD with no brackets, so it's pretty straight forward. Once the screen is lifted, the connectors are long flex cables that plug into the board at about the mid point, halfway down the device so you do have a bit of wiggle room to get the screen up and unplugged. Then just plug in the new assembly, adhese it down, and you're good to go!

NM. Figured it out. One of the SMD components next to the power switch had a bad solder joint. Reflowed the joint, started working great.

For the Z3's I've always used what we generally refer to as 'red tape'. It's a strong-bonding clear double stick adhesive. There WILL BE LIGHT LEAKING FROM THE EDGES. It's simply because the original adhesive (glue) pulls the screen down more tightly and it's opaque. The clear adhesive isn't, but it holds very well. The same thing is common with the LG G series phones. I get all of my red tape from Etechparts.com. Use a little heat after (I use 65C for 15 mins on my heat plate) to help the adhesive bond to all of the surfaces correctly and clamp it tight while the adhesive cools. For the Galaxy S5's and especially the Note 4's (which are notorious for coming loose) you have to get high quality adhesive. The stuff on Ebay won't cut it. I've gone to Etradesupply.com for all of my Samsung adhesive needs. I've even tested their S5 adhesives with the water test. They retain the water resistance as long as the frame isn't tweaked. Again, 65C for 15 mins on the hot plate after, clamp and let cool. I've noticed...

Great place to get OEM original parts. http://www.etradesupply.com

I've been having a strange issue with iPhone 6s backlights coming on and going back out seemingly at random until I noticed something. If your 6s backlight doesn't come on after a screen replacement, unplug the camera/speaker cable and retest. If it suddenly works, you're shorting out the backlight. The large chip on the back of the 6s screen cable CANNOT contact the upper cable assembly in any way. For some reason, this tends to cause a short between the camera flex and the backlight. When the camera flex cover is in position, and that small black strap pulls the cable assembly up and snug, you have to make sure it's straight across. If that long, rectangular chip contacts the assembly, it'll cause problems.

First thing to remember is that the companies (Apple, HTC, Motorola, even Samsung to some degree) don't actually manufacture their parts. They hire a mass manufacturer to make and assemble their screens, then the screens are shipped to the actual Apple/Motorola/Etc assembly plant. The 3 major grades of all phone parts are as follows: OEM: Manufactured and assembled by the same manufacturer that produces for the assembling company. For example, Apple hired FoxConn to produce the screens for the iPhone 6 series. A screen manufactured and assembled by FoxConn, and just never sold or sent to Apple is an OEM. These parts are available on the retail market for select distributors. These parts are never manufactured in the US. They all come from China. Recore/Refurb: Original LCD/Digitizer reman'ed using an aftermarket glass and possibly frame. There are hundreds of small companies doing this. Aftermarket: Manufactured and assembled by a 3rd party company. Usually on the cheaper end of the market due to the 3rd...

Best cleaning solution is Branson EC ultrasonic detergent diluted into distilled water properly. http://www.all-spec.com/products/635-022.html

For the LG G2, the problem is actually pretty simple. Don't install the proximity sensor while it's still on the black retaining bracket. If you leave the sensor in the bracket, and push it down far enough for the bracket to click into place, the rubber gasket prevents the actual sensor from going in as far as it should. So: Step 1: Remove the sensor flex from the black retention bracket. Step 2: Install the sensor into the gasket. Now that there's no bracket, you can see it go all the way to the bottom of the rubber gasket. Step 3: Install the retention bracket. Step 4: Put the sticky (taped) back part of the flex back onto the bracket. Step 5: Install logic board and test for functionality. Ever since I started doing this, I have much less problems with the prox sensors on the G2. There are still occasional problems, but it's usually just because the prox sensors LG put in the G2 are junk, and break easily.

I believe it's akin to the old iPad 2nd generation volume button problem. If you've ever torn a power/volume flex on an iPad 2 (I know I have), you may have over tightened the screws holding the volume/switch button assemblies. It locks the outer plastic volume button in place, and you have no volume control. I tried doing 4 different iPhone 5S's, using an Apple torx spec'd screwdriver, and found that I could take the SAME phones, tighten them by hand (with and without the plastic rings), and I lost the sound every time. I used my torx by hand (with and without the rings), and found that with they worked every time. You HAVE to be careful with over tightening things in Apple devices. Before, I was just putting the bracket screws in tight as they'd fit. Have you ever opened up an iPhone 5 and seen a loose bracket screw just laying in there, possibly dismissing it as a repair gone wrong? I think it's that they have to have some play.