There are several possibilities the may be causing the problem. Refrigerator's need to be on their on power circuit, if there is something else on the same circuit the fridge motor will not have enough power to run and may burn out. Or the outlet the fridge is plugged into may be bad. If you have a heavy duty extension cord you can plug the fridge into a different circuit, do not use a light extension cord it will not be able to handle the amount of power the fridge will draw and may catch fire. If the fridge was laid on its back or side when it was moved the compressor may have been damaged. The fridge is old the circuit board may have gone out, or the hard start capacitor may be bad. If the hard start capacitor is bad you should hear a clicking noise coming from the bottom of the fridge at the back. Hope this helps
The clicking noise most likely means the hard start capacitor is bad and well need replaced. With out the hard start capacitor the compressor will not turn on. If changing the hard start capacitor does not fix the problem then the compressor may be bad.
The cable that connects the hard drive to the logic board may have come loose, try disconnecting the cable and reattaching it. I had the same problem on my 17" powerbook, once the cable was reconnected the laptop booted normally.
The Airport card can be removed quicker with less trouble if you stop at step 11, and instead unscrew the left ambient light sensor and speaker from the case (they can be left hooked together), take the screws out of the PC card cage (the speaker will need to be turned on its side to remove the front screws), pull the cage forward and pry it up a little bit to allow the eject button to slide free, then the PC cage can be removed, and you will have easy access the the airport card. (There is a little metal spring under the ejector button, care must be taken when reassembling to keep from bending the spring)
If you don't use wireless the airport card can be completely removed from the computer.
The Airport card can be removed quicker with less trouble if you stop at step 11, and instead unscrew the left ambient light sensor and speaker from the case (they can be left hooked together), take the screws out of the PC card cage (the speaker will need to be turned on its side to remove the front screws), pull the cage forward and pry it up a little bit to allow the eject button to slide free, then the PC cage can be removed, and you will have easy access the the airport card. (There is a little metal spring under the ejector button, care must be taken when reassembling to keep from bending the spring)
If you don't use wireless the airport card can be completely removed from the computer.