Ohne Kalibrierung wird der Ladezustand des Akkus nur ungenau erkannt. Dein Gerät verhält sich merkwürdig: es fährt plötzlich runter, obwohl der Ladezustand noch mit halb voll angegeben wird, oder es arbeitet noch stundenlang weiter, obwohl der Akku als leer angezeigt wird.
Wie dein Akku kalibriert werden kann
Für Smartphones und Tablets:
- Lade dein Gerät auf 100% auf und lasse es noch mindestens zwei Stunden länger am Ladegerät angeschlossen.
- Benutze dein Gerät, bis es sich wegen geringer Akkuladung von selbst ausschaltet.
- Lade es dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.
Für Laptops:
- Lade deinen Laptop auf 100% auf und lasse ihn noch mindestens zwei Stunden länger am Ladegerät angeschlossen.
- Ziehe den Netzstecker und benutze ihn normal, damit der Akku leer wird.
- Wenn die Warnung wegen zu niedrigem Akkustand erscheint, dann speichere deine Arbeit ab.
- Lasse den Laptop weiter laufen, bis er wegen zu niedrigem Akkustand von selbst ausgeht.
- Warte mindestens fünf Stunden, lade ihn dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.
Am Besten führst du dieses Verfahren von Zeit zu Zeit durch (ca. ein Mal im Monat), dadurch bleibt der Akku während seiner gesamten Lebensdauer immer gut kalibriert.
Hintergrund: Was bewirkt das Kalibrieren?
Hier findest du einen guten Artikel (auf Englisch) über das Kalibrieren von Akkus. Auch dieser Artikel über Ladezustandsanzeige ist sehr erhellend. Hier ist unsere Zusammenfassung:
Das Hauptproblem ist, dass es keine zuverlässige Methode gibt, um genau zu wissen, wieviel Energie ein Akku im Moment gespeichert hat. (Es handelt sich um ein elektrochemisches System, welches sich ständig auf- und entlädt und sich bei keinem Ladevorgang exakt gleich verhält). Der einzig zuverlässige Weg, um die Kapazität zu messen, ist, den Akku voll zu laden, dann komplett zu entladen und den Unterschied zu messen (also die Coulombs zu zählen). Natürlich können wir das nicht jedesmal machen, wenn wir den genauen Ladezustand erfahren wollen, wir müssen also indirekte Methoden benutzen – also alle möglichen Nutzungsdaten speichern und damit den prozentualen Ladezustand zum jeweiligen Moment errechnen. Im Lauf der Zeit kann diese Rechnung weniger zuverlässig werden. Bei einem neuen Akku gibt es noch keine wirklich genauen Daten für diese Kalkulation, die Aussagen können also daneben liegen. Mit Hilfe einer Kalibrierung können Ankerpunkte für "Akku voll" und "Akku leer" gesetzt werden, so dass das Akkumanagement nicht raten muss. Wir stochern zwar immer noch ein wenig im Nebel herum, aber durch das Kalibrieren haben wir doch etwas mehr Durchblick.
Was bedeutet "Akku voll" und "Akku leer" in Wirklichkeit?
Das ist der Kern des Problems. Wie lassen sich diese Ankerpunkte "Akku voll" und "Akku leer" auf aktuellem Stand halten? Die oben verlinkte Seite bei Battery University erklärt dies folgendermaßen:
''Um genaue Ladeaussagen zu treffen, sollte ein gemanagter Akku periodisch kalibriert werden, indem er im Gerät geleert wird, bis "Akku schwach" angezeigt wird, und dann wieder vollgeladen werden. Durch das Entleeren wird der "Akku leer"-Anker gesetzt und durch das Volladen der "Akku voll"-Anker. Zwischen den beiden Ankerpunkten wird linear der jeweilige Ladezustand errechnet. Mit der Zeit wird diese Rechnung wieder ungenauer und der Akku sollte rekalibriert werden. In Bild 2 werden die "Akku voll"- und "Akku leer"-Ankerpunkte dargestellt.
Bild 2: "Akku voll"- und "Akku leer"-Ankerpunkte. Eine Kalibrierung erfolgt, indem der Akku vollgeladen, entladen und wieder geladen wird. Das muss im Gerät oder unter Beobachtung durch das Akkumanagement erfolgen.
Hierzu zwei Bemerkungen: (1) Nach Aussagen auf dieser Seite genügt es nicht, zu entladen und wieder zu laden – du musst zuerst ganz voll laden.
(2) “Ganz entladen” ist zweideutig — die Aussage des Bilds ist ja, dass der Ankerpunkt für "ganz Entladen" bei 10% gesetzt wird, wir wollen ja aber gerade das Problem lösen, dass dieser Prozentanteil ungenau ist. Woher willst du wissen, dass dein Akku “unter 10%” entladen ist, wenn diese Anzeige ungenau ist? Du weißt es nicht! Wir haben eine Vielzahl von Akkus getestet, die einen niedrigen Akkustand meldeten und dann noch voll weitergearbeitet haben, bis die Akkuanzeige unter 1% gesunken ist. Kurz: einen Akku "kalibrieren" zu wollen, indem man ihn unter 10% entlädt ist zwecklos. Das ist so, wie wenn man jemandem ein Auto mit defekter Benzinanzeige gibt und ihm sagt, er solle damit fahren, bis die Tankanzeige auf ¼ steht.
Was das Bild wohl zeigen soll, ist der aktuelle chemische Zustand des Akkus und nicht die Prozentangabe, die dem Benutzer angezeigt wird. Das können zwei sehr unterschiedliche Dinge sein. Die Anzeigesoftware gibt vielleicht einen Ladezustand nahe Null an, während der Akku in Wirklichkeit noch eine 10%ige Ladung hat. Das wird absichtlich so gemacht, damit sich der Akku nie tiefentlädt und dadurch beschädigt wird, so dass das System nicht mehr starten kann. Kurz, das System fährt immer von selbst aus Sicherheitsgründen herunter, obwohl noch etwas Ladung im Akku ist, zeigt aber diese Restladung dem Benutzer nicht an. Ein Kommentator bei dem oben verlinkten Artikel bringt das klar zum Ausdruck:
- Die "Akku leer"-Anzeige ist ausschließlich in der Akkumanagementsoftware integriert, um einen möglichen Datenverlust zu vermeiden, und ist ganz unabhängig vom Akkumanagementsystem.
- Auch wenn du dein Gerät laufen lässt, bis es sich automatisch wegen niedrigem Akkustand ausschaltet, hält das Akkumanagementsystem noch genug Ladung vor, so dass der Akku nicht beschädigt werden kann.
- Die Akkuanzeige auf dem Bildschirm ist im Wesentlichen nur die Ladung, die du NUTZEN kannst und nicht die VOLLSTÄNDIGE Ladung des Akkus. Deswegen kannst du die "Akku leer" Anzeige mit jeder gewünschten %-Anzeige gleichsetzen - sie ist nicht da, um den Akku zu schützen (das macht das Akkumanagementsystem automatisch), sondern um dir ausreichend Zeit zum Speichern deiner Arbeit zu geben oder dein Gerät an den Ladeadapter anzuschließen.
- Du musst also, wenn du deinen Akku kalibrieren willst, ihn unter das Niveau der Akkuwarnung absenken, bis das Gerät von selbst abschaltet, BEVOR du es wieder auflädst – sonst ist der Akku nicht ausreichend entladen, um dem Akkumanagementsystem den unteren Ankerpunkt zu melden, dadurch wird dein Kalibrierversuch ungenau.
Denk dran: es sind zwei verschiedene (aber verbundene) Systeme am Werk, das Akkumanagemenstsystem, welches den Zustand des Akkus überwacht und die Software (mit der damit verbunden Ladekontrolle), die ihre Daten von ersterem erhält, um damit eine Ladeanzeige auszugeben und unter Beachtung diverser Ankerpunkte zu reagieren (wie z.B. herunterzufahren, wenn ein niedriger Ladezustand gemeldet wird).
Und nun?
Es wäre großartig, wenn dies alles durch Apples offizielles Kalibrierverfahren bestätigt werden könnte, sie haben es aber anscheinend von ihrer Support-Seite gelöscht, da sie davon ausgehen, dass ihre neuen Akkus ab Werk kalibriert sind und nicht durch den Benutzer ausgetauscht werden können. Du kannst es aber doch noch in einigen Foren zitiert finden:
Wie man einen Akku im Computer kalibriert:
- Stecke den MagSafe Power Adapter ein und lade den Akku ganz auf.
- Wenn der Akku ganz voll ist, wird Anzeige am Stecker des MagSafe Power Adapter grün und das Akku-Icon in der Menüleiste zeigt "voll" an.
- Lasse den Akku in vollem Zustand für mindestens zwei weiter Stunden am Adapter.
- Du kannst in dieser Zeit den Computer auch nutzen, solange der Adapter eingesteckt ist.
- Lasse den Computer weiter eingeschaltet, stecke den Adapter aus und benutze den Computer weiter.
- Wenn die Akkuanzeige vor einen niedrigen Stand warnt, dann speichere deine Arbeit und schließe alle Anwendungen. Lasse deinen Computer so lange weiterlaufen, bis er ausgeht.
- Wenn er ausgegangen ist, dann schalte ihn aus und lasse ihn mindestens fünf Stunden lang ausgeschaltet.
- Verbinde ihn mit dem Ladegerät und lade ihn ohne Unterbrechung, bis der Akku voll ist.
Beachte, dass Apple offensichtlich deinem System nicht zutraut, genau zu wissen, wenn der Akku voll oder entladen ist, und das Ladegerät zur Sicherheit zwei weitere Stunden angesteckt lässt, bevor du mit dem Kalibriervorgang weitermachen darfst.
Das stimmt mit dem überein, was wir gelesen haben und stimmt auch mit vielen anderen Anleitungen im Web überein.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
100%
Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
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78 Kommentare
I have a question. When calibrating my battery ( for a Samsung Galaxy Note 5) would it be bad to use fast charging? Thanks!
Linktoad64 - Antwort
@linktoad I don’t know the answer to your question but let me provide a data-point. I had my kid’s Samsung S7 Edge’s battery replaced by a 3rd party and it never worked right … even after discharging and attempting full charge with the blessed Samsung charger. It would at best go up to %65 but it got even real bad and would not stay on. I placed it on my external Anker battery and all of a sudden it was reaching %99 and after full charge I’m seeing it at %88 after over 6 hours. So I think you may have touched on something - it might be beneficial to charge with a “dumb” source for the calibration process.
NYH -
using a 3rd party battery is BAD! they have a tendency to EXPLODE and you’re a FOOL for choosing not to buy a proper replacement battery
szymon mochort -
@syzmonmochort
A rubbish 3rd party battery will be bad. A good ''''3rd party battery should be just the same as a genuine part.
[deleted] -
@syzmonmochort
He never said that he used a 3rd party battery, he just said he asked a third party to replace it, there is a difference. Next time, read carefully before actually judging someone. Plus, no one wants to hear your criticism, if you don’t contribute, then you probably shouldn’t say anything at all. Plus, its none of your business, who cares if they have issues, its not like you’re helping them with the issues
Everyone else, I’m sorry for detracting to the conversation.
Yichen Wu -
Really great writing, Jeff. Both informative and entertaining. Kudos.
Thomas Lewis - Antwort
Kann es sein das die Batterie bei diesem Vorgang sehr langsam lädt?
Paulo0613 12 - Antwort
Ich hoffe du hast nicht versucht, eine Batterie zu laden! 🤣
Da gehört ein Akku rein, Junge! 🤣🤣
Und nein, “battery” für Akkus sagen nur die Amis. Weil sie scheinbar zu blöd sind um sowas neuronal zu trennen. Und Denglisch ist was für Möchtegernfaschisten und Nipster die einen auf weltoffen tun wollen aber insgeheim Trump lieben.
Evi1 M4chine -
I just replaced the LCD/Digitizer, and the battery on a brand new Samsung Galaxy S7, that was dropped the same week I bought it for my wife back in June or July 2016. I didn’t have insurance and couldn’t afford to fix it then, so i stored until this past week.
Everything went amazingly smooth. Until I calibrated the battery.
I followed the instructions exactly. After running the battery completely dead, It will not charge past 84%.. I let it go for another hour after it topped out at 84%. I have tried wireless and a Samsung charger and cable.
Lee Jones - Antwort
Is it a genuine Samsung battery or an aftermarket battery?
JustHandguns -
I’m having the same exact problem. Still can’t figure it out.
Ryan Franzese -
Silly question, but... are you sure you don't have Samsung's battery protection enabled? By default, it limits the charge to 85%. It's intended to extend the battery life by stressing it less.
Settings > Battery > Protect battery
FeRD -
@ukblueis4ever I recently had an issue with the aforementioned Galaxy Note 5. At the time I didn’t have the device, but I had been told by the relative who owned it that it needed a battery replacement. I’ve been using it for a couple weeks now, and the battery has been pretty good. I’m not entirely sure what to expect, but it could probably do better with a replacement. I have noticed that powering down, leaving it for several hours, and then powering it up again tends to eat quite a chunk of battery. Anyways, one day when I got home, I placed it on a wireless charging pad and left it, probably for several hours. I returned to find it only at 77%. I assumed it was just being slow and left it for, lets say another couple hours. By now it was time for me to get some rest, but the phone was still at 77%. I actually searched up the issue and found an entire article about it. I knew it could be the battery, and I do plan to replace it since the back glass is cracked. Well, they had lots of solutions(next comment)
Linktoad64 - Antwort
but not many I could do when i was already half asleep. So what I went ahead and did was just easy, simple troubleshooting: restart it, Twice. It would charge to 100% when the phone was off, just android couldn’t display the correct battery percentage. I left it powered off cable charging over night, then powered it on in the morning. That seemed to work for me. Weird, but maybe it’ll help. Another thing I saw was clear the cache; that may also help. I myself didn’t do it because sleep solved my problems. Hope something in there helps! And remember: if at first you can’t fix it, google it, then try again (after it led you to an ifixit page).
Linktoad64 - Antwort
I’ve read that “battery calibration” isn’t necessary on modern lithium polymer batteries, and in fact can be damaging to them? Since discharges all the way to 0% are apparently bad for the battery. Apparently it was more of a requirement of old nickel-based batteries (according to this page).
Although actually I’ve just found this article which seems enlightening:
“[More and more batteries have a digital calibration tool built into them. These “smart batteries” supposedly reduce the need to calibrate, though it’s still recommended… [i]f you see the battery percentage on your phone jump around a lot… You don’t want to do this too often though. It’s actually bad for lithium-ion batteries to be regularly drained all the way to 0%.”
So perhaps the best advice is that your phone’s battery readings might sometimes benefit from a calibration, but try and do it as infrequently as possible since it takes a toll on the battery?
D C - Antwort
Yes and no. Lithium-ion or Lithium polymer batteries are prone to over-discharging. Most modern devices have a voltage cut off circuits to protect you from a complete drainage. Even when you see 1% on your devices, the actual capacity may be around 20%.
JustHandguns -
Are there laptops with LIPOs?
timawarner - Antwort
Why do this if battery health is 100% after changing?
Mark Hintze - Antwort
reset the settings of your smartphone
clean the usb port with a piece of cotton moisted with white alcohol
if the battery is removeable clean the battery connector with a cotton moisted white alcohol as well as the connector pins of the smartphone
let it charge
please note that when the battery connector are wiped and put in the phone the battery reading will change.
do it if your phone is stuck on a specific battery percentage for a long time during charging.
mine stucked on 83%
when i cleaned the battery and phone connector pins the reading changed to 97%.
Hans - Antwort
battery accuracy reading and battery longevity is fully dependable on the phone software and the efficiency of the smartphone chip.
a 3700mah smartphone battery can go far better in battery autonomy/longevity than a 4000mah or 5000 mah battery smartphone in terms of hours of usage.
Hans - Antwort
does it matter if you leave it on during recharges or does it have to be off?
sirgregory1st - Antwort
When you fully recharge it the first time then wait an additional 2 hours, does it matter if it’s a fast charger or slow charger? If it’s a fast charger do you still do 2 hours?
David Duong - Antwort
The real problem with cell phones is how to manage the full discharge without losing phone service during important hours. I attempted to use every app I could to drain it at night, and it still didn’t drain. Therefore I effectively had very limited use of the phone the following day.
Looks like the best way to go about is to install the battery in the evening, charge it overnight full plus, then manage use the next day to drain it late at night, then charge it full again. The problem being changing the battery with a phone like mine on which the back cover and battery (why?) are heavily glued in place is a major undertaking, for which one might not have the endurance late at night.
b387 - Antwort
This differs from the instructions on the card that came with the battery. It says, “For optimal performance…drain battery below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%”. Which procedure should I do?
tsaxman28 - Antwort
The instructions here are more complete. The printed card you received may be outdated.
Jeff Suovanen -
Peut ton déconnecté physiquement la batterie lorsque l’étape 7 est terminé et continue à utiliser l’ordinateur sur secteur ? Ou faut t’il absolument la laisse branche ?
remidu29 - Antwort
I tried recalibrating my huawei mate 10 pro and when it discharged then plugged it back in it rebooted then showed 2% I turned it off and let it charge to 100% I'm getzing worse battery life.. Did I do it wrong or something else is the problem
cat yam - Antwort
Calibrating the battery shows you accurate battery percentage readings, but it does not help extend battery life. So if your battery is not in good health, you will know by getting accurate battery readings and observe how fast they dry up.
Wan Jhong Her -
Which one to choose? Which one is more important?
“Accurate battery readings” by calibrating, or “Longer battery lifespan” by not calibrating?
Wan Jhong Her - Antwort
The card I received in my battery replacement kit says to drain phone battery to below 10%, then charge to 100%. Do I listen to the card or what this article says?
Jophel - Antwort
Instructions here are more complete. The printed card you received may be outdated.
Jeff Suovanen -
On macOS Big Sur, in addition to disabling “battery health management”, it’s also important to disable “Optimized battery charging” while calibrating, otherwise it’ll stop charging short of 100% and not fully calibrate.
Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp - Antwort
have I messed up!? I installed new battery but didn’t keep it charging on green for 2 hours!!! I took it off charge as soon as it went green and used it. Battery read full on the screen and in system report. I have used the computer and battery was running normally then suddenly jumped from around 85% to 5% and low battery warning showed. Should I just be following the instructions and hope for the best?
Toby Keane - Antwort
Hi! I would advise you to again charge past 100% for 2 hrs uninterrupted, and then use it until the phone shuts off from low power.
If it doesn’t fix the problem, then I’d contact iFixit support (if you got the battery from here)
[deleted] -
Ok cool. Thanks for the swift reply!
Toby Keane -
Everyone says to calibrate a non-removable laptop battery, you have to charge it to 100% first. But what if you can’t get it to charge to 100% and that’s why you need to calibrate it?
Loribeth Clark - Antwort
betterycalibration
Tarik Walid - Antwort
my Hp turns off once I take off the charger. even tho I left it to charge for hours all night when I take off the charger it turns off what to do ? pls help
Amina Pouna - Antwort
It sounds like your battery may just be completely dead — or the charge circuitry is damaged so it’s not being charged at all. It’s hard to predict how these issues will be displayed by the operating system, but if your laptop (I assume it’s a laptop?) is older and has a battery that’s been heavily used, the battery may just be run down to the point where it can’t hold a charge anymore. In that case, a battery replacement should get it back in working order. That’s a much easier solution if the battery is removable — if not, then you need a technician to replace it.
If the laptop is a recent purchase, there’s little reason to think the battery would be past its useful life. (Typically they should last 3+ years at a minimum, often much longer except with extremely heavy use.) If that’s the case, the laptop’s power circuitry may be defective, in which case a new battery wouldn’t do any good. In those cases, repair or replacement (of the laptop itself) are really your only options.
FeRD -
There is no calibration needed for lithium based batteries!!! This is misinformation
Frederick Samuel - Antwort
Chemically, that’s completely correct. The “battery memory” issues of NiCd and the like are a thing of the past.
However, in these days of “smart” / “managed” everything, device charging is more often than not governed by a software algorithm that decides how much and how quickly to charge a battery, and at what point to stop charging. So, it is sometimes the case that the software needs calibration, if not the physical battery itself.
FeRD -
Hello umm I have a Dell Inspiron 7460 and I ordered a WDXOR battery, the exact battery with the same specs (IDK if it’s genuine but it works). I applied the battery, plugged my charger in, and opened it hastily.
When I opened it while plugged in, it says “AC adapter wattage and type cannot be determined.” I kept going and I then played a heavy game (specifically Genshin Impact) and it stopped charging at about 36%. As I kept playing, it didn’t charge and kept going down until it dropped to 10% and my game lagged.
I then stopped playing but my laptop doesn’t seem to want to charge anymore but it can stay open even if unplugged. I kept on using it the next day (without playing), plugging and unplugging randomly, until it dropped down to 3%, where it was stuck in that percentage for 2 days until it shut down. Now when I open it while plugged in, the same warning about “AC adapter…” pops up, and it’s stuck at 0%. If I unplug it, it doesn’t stay open anymore. Help.
Nanairo Fa - Antwort
I have worked on computers for over 40 years. I believe this whole Dell battery / adapter / power jack / coin cell battery fiasco is "PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE" AKA "DIGITAL EXTORTION" at its FINEST! Dell appears to be MORE INTERESTED IN SELLING batteries & adapters than they are in maintaining a reputation as company that is "Trustworthy & Deserving of success"! I cannot prove it but I know its true! If you ever play around with a number of these - patterns begins to emerge with the LED's, and bogus warnings & so on. In addition, over the years the designs have changed in order to make more difficult to disconnect the coin cell battery (needed to reset many models. Let me reiterate; I CANNOT PROVE IT! BUT I BELIEVE IT IS TRUE! I NO LONGER HAVE ANY TRUST OR CONFIDENCE IN DELL WHATSOEVER! DELL USED TO BE A GREAT COMPANY. Solid State Circuitry is having similar affects throughout the digital industry. "Right to Repair" - "SOONER THE BETTER"
IMHO
admin -
Hello everyone. I have a question for you all. So, got a new phone a few weeks ago and I've noticed lately that after I charge it from, let's say around 10% to 100% and unplug it a minute or two after it reaches 100%, it stays on 100% for longer than it should. It stays on 100% for at least 15 minutes of active screen on use (no matter how I use my phone it stays on that 100% for quite some time), and after that the next few percent fall down quicker than they should - for an example after that initial 100% drains to 99, every 1% drains within 3-5 minutes of Screen on use until it reaches the 90-91 mark. When it reaches 90% it looks like it starts to function and drain normally. So my question here is: Can this calibration be off on such a new device? Is it worth trying to do the steps described in this article?
Thanks in advance.
Vukman - Antwort
Hi everyone, does anyone know how to calibrate a battery? My Note 8 loses battery very quick but for some reason it literally stays at 1% wayyyy longer as if 1% is the equivalent of 20%. I’ve tried gaming on it at 1% and it did NOT die as fast as it did so I’m wondering if the battery needs to be calibrated since I’ve changed its battery last month and the phone seems to be following the old battery percentage thing. Could anyone help me find a solution for this? Thanks.
Noobslobby - Antwort
I know this is about battery calibration but we should include a section about battery maintenance.
I've always kept batteries between 20-80% (using alarms/smart charge). Would sometimes have it fall to 0% once in a month (accidentally or otherwise).
Yet still all my Note (up to 10+ now) battery still went caput twice (factory repaired)... not sure why.
Ahmed - Antwort
مصطفى السيد الطاهر محمد أحمد ودالریف
مصطفى السيد - Antwort
Yichen Wu : Exactly! Nicely said.
shannon hoyt - Antwort
&&^&^$^ Freaks! The lot of you
Be nice B man &&^&@*@!?@@@@
shannon hoyt - Antwort
Do I really need to wait atleast 5 hours? I tried to drain the battery completely yesterday so I could let it rest over night, but didn't manage to do so. I would rather not have to refrain from using my computer for 5 hours today. I think I will just let it rest for 1 or 2 hours, 5 hours seems a bit excessive, and I don't really care for the battery percentage to be extremely precise.
Simon - Antwort
Azertyuiopml
Ismail - Antwort
Well. I made a calibration mistake as I read the instructions incorrectly. When I install the battery in my S8 it was made at about 68% then I just used it until I shut down on it’s own. I am not going to give it an uninterrupted full charge and then let it continue for a solid 2 hour, again all uninterrupted. My question now is how will my mistake effect the battery 🔋 calibration? Please let me know your thoughts.
Chris P. Marshall - Antwort
You'll probably be OK, though starting from 68% before the run-down could possibly cause the top of the range to be a bit below maximum. (If you're replacing a battery that was old and held little charge, that's more likely, since the range was probably already reduced.) But I'd say just use the phone and see how the battery holds up. If you're getting good battery life, then don't worry about it.
But if you're really concerned, you can always repeat the process. Calibration isn't this thing where you only have one shot to do it correctly, it can be done whenever the device's battery gauge is suspected of not giving accurate readings. (Just... not too often, as it is hard on the battery.) After you've got the battery up to 100%, just repeat the run-down/charge-fully process.
Benchmark apps are a handy tool for burning up battery power in a phone, BTW. Running it all the way down from 100% can take forever with "normal use", so running some graphics-heavy test on repeat for a while can help move things along.
FeRD -
@szymon mochort:
“3rd party battery BAD” is literally FUD and a scam told by manufacturers to establish a lock-in aka localized monopoly dependency on victims. That’s usually a crime, by the way, and localizing it is just a way to work around that that isn’t illegal yet. It’s still just as much the exact opposite of a free market, and deliberately so, since corporations actually hate nothing more than a free market, unless by “freedom” they mean their freedom to take our freedom.
Their batteries are just as good/bad as that of third parties! !&&*, often they come from literally the same manufacturer! There is no “original”. Those so-called “original” batteries have just as much exploded (example: Samsung), and are just as much made as cheaply as possible (especially in the case of Apple), and most of all: Them being bad is *literally* the whole reason we’re even having this discussion here in the first place!
So stop spreading that nonsense or you too are an accomplice in what is, effectively, a crime.
Evi1 M4chine - Antwort
i just installed a new battery in my galaxy s7 and followed the calibration guide now a week later the phone is shutting down when it gets down around 30% it seems to be worse than the old battery is it possible to recalibrate it again ? any recomendations would be appreciated thanks
Frank j killips jr. - Antwort
Yes, "recalibration" is just measuring the "empty" (discharging more would damage it more than is reasonable) and "full" (charging more would damage it more than is reasonable) points as given by the battery controller, and how much is there in-between.
You can recalibrate as often as you like. It's just that it will cause a tiny bit of damage each time, cause it will really bring the battery to the liimt, but for above good purpose.
In your case though, I think you got a bad battery. (Remember that batteries got maybe manufactured years ago, and batteries degrade when just lying on the shelf too! So a brand-new, never-used, battery that's bad is entirely possible. But many sellers don't even know that, and sell it as new without mentioning the year of manufacture. Or it can just be a bad manufacturer.)
If the battery shutdown percentage gets worse and worse each time (especially each calibration), you definitely got a bad battery, and should demand a refund. It's not OK to sell you their old stock as new.
Evi1M4chine -
Hey Everyone!
I done the battery calibration for a mid 2012 macbook pro the following way:
• Left the computer on the charger for 3 hours.
• Drained it until it completely turned off.
• Left the battery for 10-12 hours.
• After that, I charged it to 100%.
According to coconut battery it went from 100% to 97.5% capacity.
My question would be, is this normal? Or I left the battery too much uncharged?
Lajos Kovacs - Antwort
@mrkovacs: Absolutely no surprise there, I’d say. I don’t know the actual voltage the battery was discharged to, but depending on how low the voltage is for a battery, this can be very damaging. Imagine it, simplified, as a chemical process that occurs when there’s not enough charge to get the charge from the wire to the most distant parts of the battery, and that is partially permanent, so charge can never get there anymore. (Or vice versa with charge never getting out again, for the other side of the battery.)
It may also just be, that the battery already was at only 97,5% due to “age” (amount of usage, times how much it was charged and discharged each time), and the system didn’t know that until you forced it to check.
I had a bad battery, where each calibration caused the capacity to fall dramatically. (After 8 calibrations, it was down to 12% capacity.) So i recommend only calibrating when you really need to, to avoid these strong dischange states.
Evi1 M4chine - Antwort
Greetings,
This result should be considered "Perfectly Normal" for numerous reasons. Possibly the most important is all batteries have a shelf life. As they age it is common, if not expected, the charge percentage of a battery will reduce over time. Keep in mind; normally we have NO WAY of knowing how long said battery has been in storage. Or in other words laying on a shelf, (albeit very slowly), naturally decaying or able to hold/maintain full charge capacity. May I add; Even as a brand new battery, perhaps in a brand new device - 97% is acceptable. No! Your calibration process did not cause the reduction. In fact, the next time you perform a full charge don't be surprised if it displays 100%, or 99%. I suspect the monitoring itself will often display "SOME" variables. Nothing in this world is "ABSOLUTELY PERFECT"! JMHO & I hope this helps...
admin - Antwort
This metod totally ruined my Pixel 6 Pro battery, don't do this. From ~6 hours of SOT to less than 3 hours, I have tried everything to try to fix it but seems there's no way back now. Good job ibrokeit.
Esau Ruiz - Antwort
6 hours? So the battery was already pretty much dead, no? And you tried to fix it, because you thought it was just a glitch. Unfortunately is wasn’t, your battery was already down to 3 hours, and this simply told the OS about it, that was living a lie… ;)
That’d be my guess.
You are right though that this should never be done unless you know you need to, as it does damage the battery a bit. But usually it’s for a purpose that is worth more. In your case (a battery on its last legs) it definitely wasn’t.
But hey, batteries cost like 10€ on eBay (don’t support evil Bezos from planet Bezos ;), are usually the easiest component to replace, and you’ll have a proper runtime again. (6 Hours is about what a 1999 notebook got, so really not enough to use your phone.) With a bit of luck there’s also a larger battery for it.
Evi1M4chine -
during the recharging, does it matter if the phone is off? when we are sure it won't be busy with more power activities like seeking cell service or background running processes?
recharging while off or on, which is acceptable?
Deus - Antwort
The reason is that when it’s on, it may not ever get to 100%. As it is always a bit busy. DRAM constantly needs to be refreshed, to not lose its contents, for example. And the radio module constantly needs to amplify incoming EM waves and interpret them, in case some call or message may be received. So the battery is constantly trickle-drained, while being trickle-charged too. So it can take way longer, and be bad for the battery. But that’s only with pretty bad charging implementations that can’t bypass the battery. Nowadays, it should not be a problem. At least I hope so. (My information is based on laptops, where a decade or more ago, you had to take out the battery when on AC, to prevent slowly damaging it.)
Evi1M4chine -
my iphone showing 95% battery health but real health is showing in Laptop 3utools which is 100%...... ? help me out
Shah Fahad - Antwort
Help you out with what? Nothing you posted was an actual question, despite the question mark. Two pieces of software show different numbers; there's nothing we can do about that.
How did you come to the conclusion that the 3utools number is the "real" health? Perhaps the iPhone value is the "real" health.
3utools has the handy "Details" link next to the battery health measure, which gives a lot more information. For instance, it shows the relative capacity loss (Actual Capacity vs. Design Capacity) — their "health" number is typically a straightforward computation of
Actual Capacity / Design Capacity, so if it's showing 100% health then it should also be showing Actual Capacity equal to Design Capacity.Two other pieces of info it will show are the Charge Times count, and the Production Date. It's possible that Apple's health number takes either or both of these into account, when computing its health number — a high number of charge cycles, or a particularly old battery, might count against the overall health.
FeRD -
Eu tenho um pergunta: eu fiz a calibragem da bateria do meu iPhone corretamente, na última carga que deveria deixar carregar e sem interrupções, chegou uma mensagem no WhatsApp importante que não poderia esperar, e a bateria estava em 78% ainda, precisei responder. Tudo que fiz será foi perdido, não foi salvo com sucesso a calibragem da bateria?
Gabriel Corbal - Antwort
Hi
Guter Artikel. Danke für die Informationen.
Ich habe vor kurzem bei meinem Oneplus 8 Pro den Akku gewechselt. Den Akku habe ich auch direkt von iFixit bestellt.
Die Kalibrierung habe ich wie in der Anleitung vorgenommen.
Laut der App AccuBattery komme ich aber nur auf 85% der angegeben Akku Kapazität (3.814mAh von 4.510mAh).
Habe ich hier beim Kalibrieren etwas falsch gemacht bzw. muss ich noch mehr tun?
Ich habe hier auch schon mit dem Support gesprochen und auch einen Ersatz Akku bekommen. Allerdings auch hier das gleiche Spiel...
Ich habe auf meinem Oneplus ein LineageOS 20. Gibt es da noch Besonderheiten?
draekster - Antwort
Battery laif
Sadre Alam - Antwort
using a 3rd party battery is BAD! they have a tendency to EXPLODE and you’re a FOOL for choosing not to buy a proper replacement battery
szymon mochort - Oct 23, 2020
Someone forgot to take their medication.
M. D. Jolley - Antwort
Surface book 2, can l use heavy task during discharging or let the battery discharge the slowest l can
Moudi Pueyo (0oMLSo0) - Antwort
Just to confirm: I shouldn't use my battery when charging it back to 100% from 0%, right?
audiobook - Antwort
If you're trying to calibrate the battery, then you shouldn't use it while you're charging the battery to full.
M. D. Jolley -
Muy útil, gracias.
Very helpful, thanks.
Mundo_informatico - Antwort
My speaker won't fully charge because it has a feature where it stops charging on its own and won't fully discharge because of the same feature what should I do???
some guy - Antwort
I successfully replaced my iPhone 7 battery and calibrated it. I am super pleased with how it's functioning. However, I am wondering what the best approach to charging the phone is after calibration. Should I always let it fully discharge? If I have, say, 50% when I get in my truck, is it okay to plug it in? Should I calibrate once a month to keep the info fresh? Never? Thanks.
thewrytstf - Antwort
NO, you should definitely not calibrate your battery once a month, that's a huge waste of a full battery cycle (which is very stressful and reduces the life of the battery). Calibrating once a year would be excessive, generally the recommendation is to calibrate once when the battery is new, then never again unless it doesn't seem to be lasting as long.
You'll see reduced battery life for sure if you always discharge it completely — running the battery down completely is very stressful and to be avoided. (Which is why calibrating frequently is bad, it always does this.) ABSOLUTELY charge your battery when it's at 50%, if you're near a charger, vs. running it down further.
FeRD -
Batery chearcher samsung All Gobol
Maxamed Xuseen - Antwort
Just replaced iphone 7 battery with nohon branded chinese battery (lithium polymer). User manual says the following:
"From the first time to 8th time , please use up the battery to 8%-10%. Recharge it until it is full charged and continue to charge for 30 minutes to 1 hour. (If you have a 5V/1A low current charger, please use the small current charger, if not, you can use the original charger to charge.)"
Tom G - Antwort