Einleitung
Das ist ein einfacher Teardown und eine Reparaturanleitung für die Fitbit Charge HR. Gezeigt wird der Austausch des Akkus.
Was du brauchst
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Du brauchst ein paar Plastikstückchen um das Band zu trennen, einen Torx-Schrauber, einen neuen Akku und einen Lötkolben.
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Diese Anleitung ist nur für das Modell Fitbit Charge HR, nicht das ältere Charge ohne Herzfrequenzmessung. Die Akkus sind unterschiedlich.
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Die ganze Uhr ist gut zusammengeklipst. Du musst die Seitenteile ablösen indem du einen Plastikhebel oder deine Fingernägel benutzt. Sei vorsichtig, das Gehäuse kann brechen.
This is not just a matter of the two sides of the snap-on which are obvious and shown in the image above. The housing is snapped in multiple places (see the metal bits, 2 on each side, in the Step 1 pictures. Be gentle and work your way all the way around the housing carefully.
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Wenn die Teile weg sind sieht man zwei Torx-Schrauben, die die Platine festhalten. Entferne sie und ziehe die Platine vorsichtig heraus.
Step 6 to Step 7 is incomplete. The board is connected to the housing via an orange flex cable.
You can attempt the repair without disconnecting the board from the backing, but it will be more awkward.
If you do attempt to disconnect the cable:
- On mine, there is a small piece of orange insulating tape covering the contacts. The battery (which sits above it) isn’t conductive, but it’s probably best not to lose the tape.
- The connector is a ZIF FFC/FPC connector that looks like this one: https://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/product... It removes by gently flipping up the part that is furthest from the cable entrance (on mine, the black part). That relieves the pressure on the cable and it will easily pull out.
- Later reinsertion is the opposite: slide the connector into the white part then fold down the black part to establish contact, then replace the tape.
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Die Fitbit ist sehr leicht und verrutscht schnell, ich empfehle deswegen, die Platine mit einem Klebeband zu fixieren.
This step is also not quite complete. At least in mine, there is an adhesive that sticks the battery to the back of the board. You should be very careful prying the battery off the back and resist the temptation to use anything metal to cut the adhesive! Also, you don’t want to grasp the board in one hand the pull the battery straight off with the other because it will flex the PCB too much.
Best is with a flat-edge plastic spudger, go in between the back of the battery to right where the adhesive is, and apply gentle, alternating twisting motion, edging the spudger further in as the adhesive lets go, until the battery comes off the back.
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Beachte: du kannst dein Gerät dauerhaft schädigen. Sei beim Zusammenbau vorsichtig und vermeide einen Kurzschluss, dazu kannst du das Batteriekabel isolieren. Verwechsele nicht den runden Summer mit einem Akku. Ist er nicht!
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Nachdem du den Akku gewechselt hast solltest du mindestens 20 min aufladen. Entferne dann das Ladekabel um zu prüfen, dass alles geht.
i found that the T2 torx screw forks much better and fit more accuratly then the T3.
Hi. Would you post the battery make and part number? I'd like to make sure I can get one before dismantling the Fitbit.
Many thanks.
yeah i need to know this too,please post part number
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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21 Kommentare
The battery on the original Fitbit tracker is different than the newer Fitbit HR. If you can find a battery that fits, it would work.
Where can I buy a replacement battery for my charge hr? Fitbit wants me to buy a new Fitbit which is inexcusable since the watch is only 16 months old
They sell them on Amazon for $10.95. Has only one review for 2 stars. Trying to decide if I should order one. Caveat emptor!
Can you give me the size of the battery?
Per the teardown guide, Fitbit charge HR Disassembly, the battery is 031420, or 3mm x 14mm x 20mm.
wt8p -
The batteries Amazon sells have really negative reviews.... Say they don't hold a charge for more than 1 day, some even less... I've had my FitBit for over a year and now the battery is dead and no one knows how to properly replace them. They were designed that way to get you to buy another FitBit... it's how the world works these days.
I followed this guide, and the end result was that the Fitbit powers up, but the display only shows a half-filled bar. It's not the typical battery life bar, but a slimmer one that I've never seen before, and it's always half full, even if I charge overnight. Then, if I try to connect to it with my phone, it fails to connect, and then the Fitbit shows a little exclamation mark in the middle of it.
I've tried restarting it, but the behavior is the same when it restarts. I've also tried setting it up as a replacement band through my phone's app. The phone says it sees it, tries to connect to it, then fails.
This all tells me that
1) the bluetooth is functional, at least enough that other devices can see it, if not actually connect to it.
2) the new battery is connected, because the screen and the bluetooth are getting power.
So, anybody have any idea what happened, and how I can fix it? Did I short it out when I was soldering? Did I fry the board with an ESD? Did I loosen some other connection?
Dan Slauson when researching why my fitbit was losing its charge I came across a gentleman on youtube that was explaining how to fix what sounds like what your fitbit was doing. I cant remember what he called his post but I believe he said he called fitbit customer service and explained his problem, so they talked him thru a factory reset of his fitbit charge HR, and when completing the reset his problem was solved. you can google how to do a factory reset, it doesn't seem difficult, its just a matter of plugging in your charging cable and holding down the button and releasing and repressing it in a certain sequence. I wouldn't suggest calling fitbit and telling them you replaced the battery, since they don't recommend replacing the battery, they may not cooperate in helping you. Google how to do a factory reset on a Charge HR and complete the reset and it may correct your issues. it wont hurt anything to try. Good Luck
HI,I replaced my CHARGE HR battery with a good battery from my old cracked CHARGE HR and it still won't last more then a day,the battery came out of a cracked but good CHARGE HR ,it lasted about 4 days and now I put it in this other one and it last's about a day ???? ANY IDEAS??? THANKS JOE
iFixit has recently sourced these batteries and will be making them available for sale very soon!
** FAST FIX ** If anyone needs a replacement Charge HR with good battery, let me know. I have 3 or 4 inserts with good LCD, good battery and properly functioning circuit board (bluetooth, HR monitor, etc). You simply remove the 4 screws holding your unit to the band, and replace with my working unit. Cost is $29 with free slow shipping anywhere in USA. worth dot net forward slash fitbit
Marty, I would like to get one of your Charge HR inserts, if still available. How do I get in touch with you?
Dean Westerfield
Dean -
What's up Marty. Can I get that too?
First off, this is a great article and is easy to follow.
I am trying to desolder the battery from the device but the solder doesn't seem to want to melt. I’ve turned my soldering iron up to 450c and even touched it against a reel of solder which melts instantly. I’ve even held the tip of the soldering iron on the
What temperature did you have to bring it too?
Replacement step by step is okay. My observations:
1. During opening there is necessary to wide sides -wings- eschew more widely - due to button cup. White gasket ring is there very tight so yeah there is need some power as I was scared that should break the Fibit bracelet. Next two hands with spacer plectrum is useful.
2. Be also careful of metal battery plate holder - this thing is very barely spotted to the mount and is easy to tear it off and very problematic to install back.
3. My battery was glued to the frame, so there is necessary to use more strength.
4. Be careful which battery you buy. I bought battery on and my piece was 2mm longer than original, so I must cut 2 plastic -spacers- between battery and -buzzer. But it fit et all. make wires a little longer than original ( 4mm+) for better handling. Longer wires also fit but it more complicated.
5. (my hint) Also is useful to put small slices of Capton, tape around soldered wires and in layers to over them to prevent shortcut.
Observe the side button as you remove the circuit board from the casing.
