Einleitung
Benutze diese Anleitung, um die Displayeinheit deines HTC One M8 zu ersetzen. Die Einheit beinhaltet sowohl den Digitizer als auch den LCD Bildschirm.
'''Beachte, dass das Smartphone über eine große Anzahl an Kupferabschirmungen und Klebeband, welches die Rückseite der Displayeinheit bedeckt, verfügt, wie hier zu sehen ist.
In diesem Fall müssen die Abschirmungen etc. vorsichtig entfernt werden, um an die Hauptplatine zu gelangen.'''
Was du brauchst
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Stecke einen Auswurfstift für SIM-Karten oder eine aufgebogene Büroklammer in das kleine Loch an SIM-Karte Einschub, welches du links oben am Telefon findest.
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Drücke damit hinein, damit der Einschub herauskommt.
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Entferne den Einschub aus dem HTC One M8.
Another easy step if you have the right tool
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Stecke einen Auswurfstift für SIM-Karten oder eine aufgebogene Büroklammer in das kleine Loch am MicroSD-Karten Einschub, welches du rechts oben am Telefon findest.
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Drücke damit hinein, damit der Einschub herauskommt.
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Entferne den Einschub aus dem HTC One M8.
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Benutze einen iOpener oder eine Heißluftpistole, um den Kleber an den oberen und unteren Lautsprecherabdeckungen aufzuweichen.
I used a heat gun settings 200 at 75, but I also found using a hair dryer works just as well. Heated up the bezels came right off and for putting back on I heated it back up and they have stayed put.
I used a hair dryer for this which worked fine but I didn't need to heat it for as long as I did. 10-20 seconds is enough to start. I didn't realise how hot it would get so after heating for 90 seconds on high heat the phone was absolutely roasting and I've got two spots of heat damage on my screen. Still all works though luckily.
Disassembly: I did NOT use any heating elements. I have a straight edge razor (like you use to scrape off window decals). Gently push in 1 point of the straight edge and work in the rest of it. Then use a spudger slowly to remove the grills.
Assembly: Enough adhesive should be left to reinstall the grill with no problem. Be careful align it perfectly then don’t be afraid to give a good push into place.
What are the speaker grilles?
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Mit einem Plastiköffner kannst du vorsichtig die untere Lautsprecherabdeckung ablösen.
Disassembly: I did NOT use any heating elements. I have a straight edge razor (like you use to scrape off window decals). Gently push in 1 point of the straight edge and work in the rest of it. Then use a spudger slowly to remove the grills.
Assembly: Enough adhesive should be left to reinstall the grill with no problem. Be careful align it perfectly then don’t be afraid to give a good push into place.
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Mit einem Plastiköffner kannst du vorsichtig die obere Lautsprecherabdeckung ablösen.
Be careful on these steps to not bend the grill while removing.
What is the strip of tape for under the grill? Mine has snapped off completely
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Entferne die zwei oberen silbernen 3 mm PH00 Schrauben.
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Entferne die vier unteren schwarzen 4 mm T5 Schrauben.
Nice good good
Do yourself a favor and get a proper set of small screwdrivers including smaller Torx bits T5-T10 (especially with magnetism)…you’ll thank me later. Getting the cheap kits from Amazon or included in the order will likely not work or strip easy.
Disassembly: be easy with the screws and don’t strip them. organize your workspace. i put the top screws next to my top speaker grill on the left of my workspace (and worked left to right…so that assembly was right to left) and bottom torx next to my bottom speaker grill.
Assembly: be easy with the screws and don’t strip them. you will definitely feel the stopping point and don’t add extra torque.
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Um die Klammern zu lösen, die die Rückseite festhält musst du dich mit einem Spudger und einem Plastiköffner rings um das Telefon herum arbeiten.
Note: the pictures make it look like it's the glass the comes loose from the body. In fact, it's the metal shell the comes off, while all of the electronics are attached to the face. To get it started, you have to dig your spudger in between the metal shell and the little plastic rim that goes around the glass. I found it easiest to start in the middle, below the volume buttons.
I wish this was more clear in the picture. I ended up cracking my screen/digitiser trying to pry the glass open... the more you know!
NzUddin -
I tried starting by the volume buttons but was having no luck. I found starting just under the sim card worked best. Raising the whole side and the top up allowed the rest to come out. Be mindful of the charging port at the bottom and don't force the bottom out first but rather lift the top end out then the charger will clear. Same goes for putting back together. Charger port in first them push down on the sides and top.
Why do they design it to make it so difficult to replace the battery?
Disassembly: did not use any heating elements. used my straight edge razor near the top left side opposite the volume rocker (it should go in pretty far and worked until i heard the first clip pop. worked around the top and down the right side. as others mentioned, you’re getting the top loose then rocking out the unit to not screw up the charge port. DO NOT LOSE THE POWER BUTTON.
Assembly: hold the shell with charge port up and place the power button (this keeps it from falling out while assembling). put charge port in first then slowly work your way around the side little by little. I started hearing the clips pop into place maybe as I working around the perimeter on the 3rd try. after that, give it some good force as the unit should almost be flush with the shell.
After destroying the tip of three nylon spudgers, I would like to advocate using a METAL spudger, as shown in the picture. Just be careful to minimize scarring of the metal cover. But, the nylon spudger definitely is not strong enough to release the chassis, especially since these phones tend to be pretty old and set in their ways at this point in time. With a metal spudger, I was able to separate the back from the chassis in just a few minutes, after spending over 30 minutes failing with the nylon spudgers.
Not sure g enough for any of this work. Mine are nubs now. And left residue around the edges that I was trying to pry loose.
Please tell me, how to put in the Power Button. It’s not symetrical.
I would appreciate a picture of it in it’s housing or a discription.
I found that on my HTC M8 the power button needs to be a shade to the left. You can figure it out on your model by looking for the button by using a Sim Card eject tool and pressing on the power button which on my model was covered by black tape. You’ll feel the button click/press once you find it - you can then determine if the button is a shade to the left or right when you line it up with the housing with no power button. Place the phone temporarily into the shell and you’ll be able to determine the button placement, this is how I did it.
I too also used a metal spudger on the left side opposite the volume rocker, that seems like a good spot to start.
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Entferne die zwei silbernen 2mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, die den Akkuanschluss auf der Hauptplatine befestigen.
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Mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug kannst du nun behutsam den Akkuanschluss von der Hauptplatine lösen.
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Nutze den Spudger, um die beiden ZIF Anschlüsse zu öffnen.
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Mit der flachen Seite des Spudgers kannst du nun das schwarze Antennenkabel lösen.
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Mit einer Pinzette kannst du jetzt die zwei Flachbandkabel aus den ZIF Anschlüssen entfernen.
Note that there are two hardware versions of the replacement part. One has one antenna connector, the other has two antenna connectors. The iFixit part labeled "Sprint" is the one-connector version. It is the most common. It may be labeled "16GB" on ebay and from other sellers. My 32GB T-Mo device required the "16GB" version of the hardware, so use caution when ordering. The iFixit part labeled "Verizon" is the two-connector version. You may see this one labaled "32GB" on ebay. My understanding is that the 2-connector part is for Verizon & AT&T Windows M8s, but I could be mistaken.
If you don't know which hardware you need, and you are ordering parts before cracking open your device, I would suggest (at least at 2017 ebay prices) ordering one of each and returning the one you don't need.
Be mindful of the small ZIF connector, as when you remove it, it will stick out from the back of the phone and can be easily damaged if you put the phone with its back on the table. Better put it flat again after you loosen the cable
As happened to me; the white part came loose, but I managed to put it back. However, it doesnt have as much r'resistance' as initially. Nevertheless my phone is still working, so probably the small ZIF is only to keep the cable in place. This kept me sweating for quite some time...
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Entfernen die einzelne silberne 4mm T5 Torx Schraube, welche die Kopfhörer / Mikro USB Platine fixiert.
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Mit einer Pinzette oder dem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug kannst du jetzt vorsichtig die Kopfhörerbuchse/ Mikro USB Platine aus den Smartphone entfernen.
There is a small rubber pad stuck to the inside end of the headphone jack. You can see it in the 3d picture that goes with this step, slightly offset to the right. Your new part will almost certainly not include this rubber pad. Stick it on the new headphone jack. This helps keep your M8 a little more water-resistant, as the pad is covering a small hole.
There is some adhesive sticking the board to the phone, you will need to reapply the heating pad to easily lift of the part.
There are also small surface mount components on the bottom side (opposite the USB connector) that can be broken if the board is pulled out without first lifting it up and away from the adhesive. I just successfully repaired the USB connector (solder joints on all pins were broken) and replaced a couple of the 0402 size resistors that broke off the USB board when removing it from the phone, and the phone is now charging again. Thanks for the step by step tear down - it helped save me from not destroying the M8 while opening it up!
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Nutze die Spitze des Spudgers um die sieben ZIF Verbinder zu öffnen.
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Mit einer Pinzette kannst du nun vorsichtig die sieben Flachbandkabel aus den Anschlüssen ziehen.
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Mit einem iOpener löst du nun den Kleber, der die Displayeinheit mit dem Rest des Gerätes verbindet.
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Benutze einem Saugnapf, um vorsichtig die Displayeinheit vom restlichen Gerät zu trennen.
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Führe nun vorsichtig das Displaykabel durch den Mittelrahmen, um die Displayeinheit zu entfernen.
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Um das Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um das Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
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Be careful when reassembling:
Make sure the power button is put in the right way, it may look symmetrical but it's not! When put in the wrong way it does not work. Check if the shape of the button aligns with the edge of the casing, it's pretty easy to see if you pay attention to it.
Also keep an eye on the back camera. The round black cover glass may shift when trying to click the phone in its casing.
I ended up taking it apart at least 4 times because of this :(
Also, if you want to heat things up you can also use an incandescent light bulb and put your phone over it.
position of the square block on the power button is a little bit left from the center (phone facing you with screen)
don't follow step 13 in fact &&^& this guide listen to byrn
very helpful, thanks
This is a good guide, but indeed Byrn made it better !
Re-assembly can be stressful, especially since the phone will go into 'safe mode' or get stuck into the bios boot screen.
Apparantly, when the 2 volume buttons are not working, or pressed in continuously, this makes the OS go into a frenzy, and you're stuck in safe mode.
I tried to assemble the back cover (with power already on, as then there is no cover button pressing), but it went wrong and eventually my phone got stuck in the boot screen and the power button was also not working anymore.
So I opened the phone (with power on) and removed the battery cable (step 10), which reset my phone again, after which is was booting normally.
Assembly of back cover was finally well achieved by inserting the top-right first to ensure proper alignment to the power and volume buttons.
Now I'm finished, I also found this youtube guide, which is better than the ones I used to do my 'surgery'
hi
my phone was drop down now display back light is not work
what will do now
it can repair or want to change new display
You may have a dissconnected cable. Check inside, if there isn't a disconnected cable, here's a replacement screen. :)
LCD Digitizer Assembly Replacement for HTC One M8 Display Touch Screen - BLACK
Hi there,
Please help?
I've replaced the screen 2 times and the screen didn't come on. I can feel that phone is turned on becouse it does buzz and response when I touch the screen, but the screen stays black, nothing comes out.
Any hints?
I am only trying to restore my data from this mob but it was reported lost or stolen and than I found it with broken screen.
When I replaced the screen first time it was ok, but then I pressed on the screen to place it bit better against the housings and the screen cracked .
Since then I've replaced the screen twice with no luck.
Best regards!
Raphael
I just successfully completed the battery replacement on m8 using this guide…thought I would add a comment at each step to follow my story. This step of course should be easy if you’ve put the phone back together.
Ashley Keith (sc0rch3d) - Antwort
My HTC m8 doesn’t have a SIM card, and it might not have a micro SD card, since i can’t back anything up on it. Does not having the SIM card or the micro SD card matter in disassembly and reassembly?
Lewwy Ignovoir - Antwort