Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie man am Mac Mini Late 2014 das Festplattenkabel tauscht, egal ob er nur eine einzelne Festplatte oder ein Fusion Drive enthält.

Die Anleitung wurde an einem Gerät mit Fusion Drive erstellt. Wenn dein Mac Mini nur eine Festplatte hat überspringe die Schritte mit dem PCIe SSD und seinem Verbinder.

  1. Die Unterbodenabdeckung wird von drei geschraubten Clips gehalten.
    • Die Unterbodenabdeckung wird von drei geschraubten Clips gehalten.

    • Heble in der Nähe der Schrauben, nicht direkt über ihnen.

    Read Me First: I purchased an SSD drive directly from Crucial and, of course, it came uninitialized. After going thru the entire tear down, installing the new drive, and rebuilding the mini, it refused to recognize the new drive. So, of course, I had to re-tear it down, remove the new drive, insert it into an external housing and format it using my Macbook. After that the mini recognized the new drive. A word to the wise: format the new drive before installing it.

    tom - Antwort

    How were you installing the OS? I am planning on booting into a USB drive with a copy of OS High Sierra on it, and I assume I will be able to format my new Samsung SSD using that?

    Simon - Antwort

    On my Samsung EVO 850, mac mini download system automaticly

    Stefan Repac - Antwort

    Pre-formatting is not necessary if you make a USB boot installation drive with macOS installer. During boot up, hold down the option key until the mac boot into the USB, formatting can then be done using disk utility running off the USB drive.

    SBR249 - Antwort

    I had the exact same experience as tom. I installed a brand new 2TB Samsung 850 EVO and it was not recognized by the Mac Mini. I booted from a portable USB drive with a bootable copy of macOS High Sierra but the 850 EVO SSD I had just installed was not shown as an option. I tore down the Mac Mini again, formatted the 850 EVO, rebuilt the Mac Mini, and booted off the same bootable High Sierra USB drive, and sure enough the 850 EVO was recognized.

    maxim - Antwort

    diskutil list

    diskutil erasedisk [filesystem] [drivename] /dev/disk[disk number]

    Paul Rodgers - Antwort

  2. Verwende ein Plastik Opening Tool, um die Unterbodenabdeckung vom Mac Mini anzuheben.
    • Verwende ein Plastik Opening Tool, um die Unterbodenabdeckung vom Mac Mini anzuheben.

    I used some wooden toothpicks instead of the opening tool. This worked flawless for me.

    mhomscheidt - Antwort

    • Hebe die Unterbodenabdeckung an und entferne sie vorsichtig.

    I taped the "Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool" to the flat part of the antenna plate before sealing everything up again. I mean, where else am I supposed to store it without forgetting where it is? I'm pretty sure it won't cause any problems there.

    Richard - Antwort

    That’s a brilliant idea, @mrredwood!

    Dan Moore -

    I would suggest you wash the underside of the plastic as mine after 3 years was covered in dust.

    John Errington - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden TR6 Schrauben von der Antennenabdeckung:

      • Drei 4,1 mm Schrauben

      • Drei 1,9 mm Schrauben

    Had a T7 security screw driver [and didn't want to wait to have the T6 version shipped to me], so I gave it a whirl. I lined up the driver with the screw socket, pressed down a bit to make sure the driver would get enough grip, and slowly [but forcefully] rotated the driver and got these screws out. BE CAUTIOUS not to strip the screws. May not work for everyone.

    KevCoStudios - Antwort

    As TR6 screwdrivers were sold out all over Germany and I wanted to exchange the HDD THIS friday, I took a VERY fine dental milling tip (0,8 mm head diameter) for my proxxon and milled away the little dots in the center of the the TR6 screws. After that I could open the case with a regular T6 screwdriver. All went fine, MM is closed again + working like a charm with it's new SSD. NOTE: For this task I used my loupe glasses (3x) ;)

    Martin Gerner - Antwort

    On the whole screw thing. I just used a tiny dremel drill bit and drilled out the security pin. I hate those screws. I don't see the point in locking the them with those. they should have left the screws alone.

    That Mac Guy - Antwort

    That worked for me, thanks for the trick!

    Arroba -

    great trick!

    James Almeida -

    I used the T7 very carefully. No problems.

    randywardak - Antwort

    I just had success using standard pliers to remove the longer screw posts, and then I used standard needle nose pliers to press down and grip the tiny screws. Please note that this method may/will cause scrapping of the aluminium cover.

    Barrythetech - Antwort

    Northern Tools sells a set of 13 Torx Security Keys for $28.99 that has the TR6 size.

    Gary Craig - Antwort

    On my 2nd drive replacement (swapping out to an SSD this time). Could not find my logic board removal tool. So I made another one from a metal coat hanger. So, here’s my tip, when you put it all back together: the logic board removal tool fits around that small black circle antenna perfectly and you can replace the large black cover over the top snuggly. No rattles or anything.. So, next time: I’m guaranteed to find my logic board removal tool.

    Andy Milne - Antwort

    • Entferne die Antennenabdeckung nicht komplett, sie ist über das Antennenkabel immer noch mit dem Mac Mini verbunden.

    • Mit den I/O Anschlüssen zu dir gerichtet klappe die Abdeckung nach rechts, um den Zugang zum Antennenanschluss zu ermöglichen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die einzelne 3,4 mm T6 Schraube und die Unterlegscheibe.

      • Pass auf, dass du die Unterlegscheibe nicht verlierst, wenn du die Schraube entfernst.

    This is a pain in the arse to get back on. Lock the screw down first when reassembling.

    Jim Allen - Antwort

    • Hebe den Antennenstecker mit der Spitze eines Spatels gerade nach oben vom Sockel auf der Airport Karte.

    Is this really necessary? The antenna is no where near the SSD drive....

    mike - Antwort

    This was the most tricky part for me when remounting the Mac Mini. With my bad eyes, I’ve spent 10 minutes inserting this tiny round antenna plug in the hole. I’ve decided to put the screw back without tighten it too strongly and then it was easier.

    afajner - Antwort

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I changed the drive. I don’t know if this connector is the cause or not.

    Simon - Antwort

    I have been having wifi issues ever since I did this upgrade. Don’t know if it’s this connector or not.

    Simon - Antwort

    Afajner great rip. Worked great. Thx

    Milton - Antwort

    Afajner, your tip worked great. Thanks.

    Milton - Antwort

    This is a very fiddly connector. Afajner’s tip is recommended. Make sure the connector is in securely. It will not wiggle or make a ticking sound when pressed when it is seated correctly.

    maxim - Antwort

    I had trouble at this point too. My experience: Loosen the screw a bit and than center the antenna plug over the pin. In my case I heard a click when I plugged it in correctly. Don’t forget to tighten the screw afterwards.

    Matthias - Antwort

    • Ziehe das Antennen-Kabel vorsichtig aus der Lücke zwischen Stromzufuhr und Gehäuse heraus.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die Antennen-Abdeckung vom Mac Mini.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die zwei 12 mm T6 Schrauben vom Lüfter.

    • Lockere die unverlierbare 27 mm T6 Schraube.

    That 27mm screw should be very loose, since it attaches the motherboard to the case. When you’re trying to remove the motherboard, if the AC connection side of the board is not moving back easily, you need to make sure this screw is fully backed out from the case.

    There’s no danger in removing it completely.

    marklfarley - Antwort

    I suggest removing the 27 mm tool, otherwise Step 23 will not work.

    Arvin Bhatnagar - Antwort

    • Der Lüfteranschluss kann nicht getrennt werden, ohne den Lüfter zu bewegen, da der Anschluss unter der Ecke des Lüfters liegt.

      • Versuche nicht, den Lüfter vollständig zu entfernen.

    • Hebe den Lüfter gerade nach oben, um die unverlierbare Schraube aus dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Ziehe den Lüfter von der SSD weg, bis du mühelos an den Lüfteranschluss kommst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Trenne den Stecker des Lüfters mit der Spitze eines Spudgers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    When I did this the entire socket came off the logic board. What do I do now?

    Tyler - Antwort

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    • Entferne den Lüfter aus dem Mac Mini.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die 2,6 mm T6 Schraube, die die Kabelabdeckung des SATA-Anschlusses befestigt.

    This screw is very short, when I tried to put it back, the beginning of its thread got dusted and now it's impossible to use it to fix the bracket in place. It should be 3.5 mm instead of 2.6. Nevertheless, the SATA connector is firmly attached to the logical board withou screw+bracket and my mac mini is working nicely.

    mario.estolano - Antwort

    • Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des SATA-Anschlusses.

    This procedure works to add a SATA hard drive/SSD to a PCIe SSD-only Mac Mini using iFixit's Mac Mini Dual Drive Kit. The one thing that's missing from the kit is SATA cable connector bracket (and screw). This is not the end of the world: the cable is a snug fit in the logic board socket, so the bracket is only a safety measure.

    Dominic Dunlop - Antwort

    • Trenne mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Stecker des SATA-Kabels von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    Last time I did this I got the tool under the socket and it broke off. This caused the power light not to work. I don’t use the IR function so it wasn’t an issue. When putting this connector back on, make sure it seats well as many have has issues with the the power light not working. You will read more of this on the comments at the bottom

    Greg Bouten - Antwort

    • Hebe mit der Spitze eines Spudgers den Stecker des IR-Sensorkabels gerade nach oben von seinem Anschluss.

    Be careful in this step. I am known for my gentle hands and the little cable flew out regardless. Was able to reinsert with no damage but was terrifying!

    Liliana Chavez - Antwort

    What if the entire connector came off? Can this be glued again? How can I fix this?? :(

    Cai - Antwort

    @caicruzz The socket will have to be re-soldered to the board. It’s not terribly difficult, but requires some specialized equipment and I wouldn’t recommend it as a DIY on any machine you care about, at least not without a lot of practice first. I’d suggest reaching out to a repair shop that handles board-level repairs. Sorry for the frustration! Accidents happen sometimes; fortunately this one is very fixable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Entferne die beiden 2,6 mm T6 Schrauben, die die Abdeckung des PCIe SSD-Kabels befestigen.

    Steps 18-20 only apply if you are removing a fusion drive. Otherwise skip to step 21 during removal.

    Stephen Reaser - Antwort

    • Entferne die Abdeckung des PCIe SSD-Kabels.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den PCIe SSD-Stecker von seinem Anschluss.

    Is the PCIe connector present and usable on the mid-range Mac mini? I don't need the ~$300 fusion drive but would like the comfort of knowing that I can add an extra SSD in the future.

    Michael Johnson - Antwort

    No, only present in Mac Minis configured with a fusion drive.

    rasmus - Antwort

    Not true. I am looking @ the inside of a mac mini _not_ configured with a fusion drive, and the connector is present.

    Samuel Bostick - Antwort

    The PCIe connector is only present if the computer came factory configured with any sort of flash storage (SSD or fusion drive). Otherwise, the cable, the connector, the bracket, and the 2 screws are all missing. The fusion drive is essentially a disk drive plus a small capacity SSD blade which the OS recognizes as a combined drive. Fortunately, if you didn’t have an SSD before, you can easily buy the connector cable part on the internet. The bracket and screws are not necessary.

    SBR249 - Antwort

    • Entferne die einzelne 16 mm T6 Schraube, die das Logic Board befestigt.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Zum Entfernen des Logic Boards müssen die beiden zylinderförmigen Stäbe des Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tools in die mit Rot gekennzeichneten Löcher gesteckt werden. Die Platine kann zerstört werden, wenn Instrumente in irgendwelche anderen Löcher der Platine gesteckt werden (außer den Markierten).

    • Stecke das Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool in die zwei mit Rot gekennzeichneten Löcher. Gehe sicher, dass die Stäbe das Gehäuse unter der Platine berühren, bevor du fortfährst.

    Instead of the removal tool it is also possible to use two metal pins with 2,5mm diameter.

    Yuuki Galaxy - Antwort

    A T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    rparks89 - Antwort

    Yes - You need a T8 there rather than T9.

    amrgardner -

    T9 was a perfect fit for me.

    dloftis -

    T8 screws in my HDD

    aiino - Antwort

    You don’t need a tool for this step, just turn the Mac Mini around 180º and push the vent for the fan with your thumbs. The board will push straight out. That’s what I did.

    Daniel De Ciantis - Antwort

    Simple thumb-pushing didn’t work for me, so I bought the tool.

    Insert the MMLBRtool. How far? There’s an initial lip you might catch about halfway down, but wiggle beyond the lip to a definite bottoming out, and equal lengths of the tool on each side of the elbows as shown.

    As you lever the logic board per the illustrations, you’ll notice the black bezel begin to separate on one side or the other. Use a prying tool or guitar pick to help separate the bezel from the body on top and bottom, and the logic board will slide out easily with gentle prying.

    On my Mini, the bezel’s retaining clips (best seen in Step 25) were very snug to the body, preventing the thumb-push. Using the pick released them from the body.

    s gardner - Antwort

    You definitely don’t need the tool. Just get two screwdrivers small enough to fit in the holes and push them both at the same time. I have about a million tiny torx screwdirvers that came with iphone screen replacement kits. I’m sure you do too.

    Mark2000 - Antwort

    • Ziehe das Werkzeug vorsichtig in Richtung des Panels mit den Anschlüssen. Dieses sollte nun zusammen mit der Platine langsam aus dem Gehäuse herausgeschoben werden.

    • Höre auf zu ziehen, wenn das Removal Tool an den vorderen Gehäuserahmen der Öffnung stößt.

    • Entferne das Mac Mini Logic Board Removal Tool.

    I had some trouble getting mine started here. If your logic board seems stuck, try pushing the removal tool on both sides near the bottom (vs the top like the photos show) with your index fingers, holding the case with your ring and pinky fingers so that your hands are completely free of the back of the computer (the side with the ports). This worked for me. Otherwise, this guide made the process smooth!

    moorejeffery - Antwort

    The removal tool fits into sockets below the board, just 'lean' the tool over and the logic board will ease out. When refitting the logic board make sure the tabs around the I/O shield slip inside the shell and press home firmly. If the fixing screw does not thread into it's hole, the board is not fully home.

    Malcolm Norwood - Antwort

    This is what worked for me!

    Rick Allen -

    Make sure you do *not* have your thumbs on the black plastic I/O shield while attempting this step!

    Stephen Reaser - Antwort

    I was able to push the logic board out, with a little bit of stress and patience, without the specified tool. Rather I used two paper clips, larger than average, and being very gentle to get the initial nudge. I then finished it off using only my fingers, as the paper clips were not strong enough and would have bended. Doable, but probably easier with the tool.

    mt - Antwort

    Even with the tool - it takes more force than you think. There are clips on both sides of the board. Be aware of that when putting it back.

    Jim Allen -

    I used 2 mini flathead screwdrivers with the same thickness as the holes with the heads aligned straight up and down. They will fit into little sockets attached to the case below the board. The side with the power cord came out much easier than the side with the headphone jack, so I removed the tools after a small gap was created and pushed semi-hard on the logic board with a broken spudger (a screwdriver would have worked, too) right in the elbow curve shown to the left of the screw in step 14, and the whole thing slid right out.

    unixmonkey1 - Antwort

    I saw a video where a guy just used a coat hanger to make his own tool. Good to know in case you've already started taking it apart and haven't already purchased the tool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgEBPlz4...

    James Almeida - Antwort

    The coat hanger trick worked flawlessly for me. Very easy.

    Jochen -

    May be its me, but I had a right issue with this, I then noticed the screw I loosened in step 10 was bending over. I removed the screw completely, logic board came out, and the metal pillar on the underneath of the board where said screw went in was bent. When I put it all back together afterwards after changing the drive, that long screw was bend, on straightening everything up, the pillar snapped off the logic board. Everything tightened up and its booted up fine. It might just me not following the instructions properly though

    steve - Antwort

    Same here. The screw has to be backed out further than I thought. This should maybe be clearer.

    marklfarley -

    For me the screw loosened in step 10 came out with the fan. it "should" be a captive screw meaning it doesn't stay in when the fan comes out

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    I had 2 complete sets of allen wrenches, one metric and one standard and found one each that fit the holes perfectly. With those I was able to find the "pry spots" that are on the base of the case very easily and a slight nudge moved the board. really worked EXCELLENTLY

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    My logic board was hung up on the left side with the plastic retainer or the two grounding tabs not giving up the ghost. There is no good picture of this on this procedure. If you go the the heat sink replacement procedure you can see a pretty good bit of it below the presenter’s right thumb in the opening pic and in a larger pic at step 27. Not that the logic board assembly can move much while seated I was able to shift (ever so slightly) the black plastic backside to the right and the board finally unlatched and came out. I was so worried that I was going to over force it and break something, you know, like the logic board. Not sure if I have a solution other than don’t force it. If it seems hard and one side seems to have a screw or other some such locking device stop forcing it and try shifting the logic board to the side opposite were it is catching.

    Eric Jorgensen - Antwort

    I had an issue during reassembly where the AC in socket was just offset and would not line up correctly. I inserted the power cord (unplugged from wall) as I did the final push and everything finally lined up right.

    Austin McGuire - Antwort

    One thing about sliding the assembly board in, i.e. when you are doing the steps backwards, is that there is squishy pad on left and clip on the righ (when viewing mac mini from bottom) if you carefully observe and then it becomes easy to get the assembly in or out if you think about it.

    Trushar - Antwort

    • Ziehe den DC-In Stecker gerade vom Anschluss auf der Platine.

    When reassembling, I made the mistake of pushing the logic board all the way in before trying to reattach the DC-In cable connector. It is much easier to reattach the connector with the logic board pushed in just short of final seating.

    Saqib Qazi - Antwort

    Very usefull comment!!!

    Jean-Marie Sengelen -

    very small needle-nose pliers help, when reassembling.

    allanschwartz - Antwort

    • Achte beim Entfernen der Logic Board Einheit auf Kabel, die sich verfangen könnten.

    When sliding the logic board assembly back in later, mind the tabs, especially those at each end.

    Richard - Antwort

    When sliding the logic board back in, also be careful and make sure the rubber “sock” on the logic board wraps around the AC-in socket on the power supply.

    Anton - Antwort

    If you can’t get the logic board assembly back in so that it is flush (as it was before you did your surgery on the machine) then I would pay attention to two things: 1) the “sock.” Make sure it is back in place in the right way. I wish I could tell you which way that is but because there is no picture I had to guess and I can’t remember what my guess was now. 2) the retaining clip in step 26. I was unable to properly seat the logic board back into the machine so that it was flush UNTIL I fooled around with the clip and, I GUESS, put it in properly this time. After I did that I was able to properly push the logic board back into place.

    Christopher Todd - Antwort

    • Die AC-Buchse ist mit Hilfe einer Halteklammer gesichert.

    • Zum Entfernen empfiehlt sich eine Pinzette, es ist aber auch mit den Fingern möglich. Die Klammer sollte dazu von der AC-Buchse weggezogen werden und aus dem Mac Mini entfernt werden.

    • Beim Einsetzen der neuen Halteklammer, drücke sie einfach so weit hinein, bis es nicht mehr weiter geht - auch wenn du kein Einrasten hörst, sollte sie dann fest sitzen.

    Be careful with this seemingly easy step. A few weeks after following this guide to replace my hard drive I noticed that something inside the Mac mini was loose and moving around. I was very annoyed but decided to open it again to have a look and it turned out the be the retaining clip.

    I think I damaged it a little bit and it's not holding into place firmly like it is supposed to anymore. I wonder if I can remove it completely in case it happens again.

    Franck Thomas - Antwort

    This re-install of the clip was surprisingly pesky, I agree. The AC-in socket wanted to sit too far towards the edge of the case, so the retaining clip couldn't be slipped on far enough to close fully around it. I had to push the AC socket to the left while sliding the clip to the right until the wings were really securely closed.

    Jon Scott - Antwort

    I fully agree with the pesky nature of this clip. During my reinstall I noticed that the logic board assembly would not go back in flush with the metal case. Nothing I did changed that. I had to pull out the logic board assembly again and for some reason I decided to futz with the clip. I think I must have re-seated it a little bit better because I was then able to push the assembly back into place and make it flush again. This pin is a PITA!

    Christopher Todd - Antwort

    I ageee. When it popped loose I thought I broke it. My retaining clip disappeared but that plug is very tight.. it’s not budging. Take the time to make sure it’s aligned properly - there are little indents in the top and bottom of the case. You’ll know it’s right if you don’t have to fight it.

    Jim Allen - Antwort

    I don’t understand why this retaining clip is necessary. The AC-in “latch” is positioned by the grove in the case, and quite tight. The power supply is keyed in the back, and attached with the (step 29) screw. I can’t see the retaining clip doing anything, so I will leave it out.

    allanschwartz - Antwort

    • Um das Netzteil aus dem Gehäuse zu entfernen, setzt du am besten am AC-In-Stecker an, denn der wirkt wie ein Hebel.

    • Drehe den AC-In-Stecker um 90 Grad gegen den Uhrzeigersinn.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Der Stromanschluss sollte in die Rille darüber im Gehäuse passen.

    • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass der Stromanschluss weit genug eingeschoben ist, so dass der Riegel in die entsprechende Rille einrastet.

    "During reassembly ensure the power supply is inserted far enough into the case that the latch will engage with the groove." -- Tip: Flip the case upside down and wiggle the power supply a bit to get it seated properly so the screw hole lines up.

    Brad Bowers - Antwort

    • Entferne die 8mm Torx T6 Schraube, die die Stromversorgung befestigt.

    During reassembly, leave this a bit loose so that you can wiggle the AC-in latch into place in step 28

    Sandip Bhattacharya - Antwort

    • Schiebe die Stromversorgung aus dem Gehäuse und achte dabei darauf, dass keine Kabel sich verheddern oder hängen bleiben.

    When re-seating the PSU, be sure to align the little metal tab that points toward of the front of the Mac Mini so that it mates with the receiving socket at the front of the case. If not, the light at the front of the case that glows white when the Mac Mini is in various power states will not illuminate.

    maxim - Antwort

    • Drehe die einzelne 8 mm T6 Schraube heraus, die den Festplatteneinschub hält.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den Einschub aus dem Mac Mini heraus.

    When re-installing drive tray, note two holes in tray engage two spuds at the far end. I fumbled with this for a minute.

    Jon Scott - Antwort

    • Entferne die 4 6.5mm T9 Schrauben (2 auf jeder Seite) die die Festplatte in der Halterung festhalten.

    Like others, a T8 screw driver worked best for me on the 4 hard drive screws.

    sorinjc - Antwort

    it is t8 not t9. you owe me a TR6 Torx Security bit :D

    giammin - Antwort

    I found the 4 screws quite hard to remove and needed to use an 8mm spanner on the back of my T8 screwdriver to get them loose.

    Reiner Friedel - Antwort

    Screws have loctite residue. I put a tiny drop of fresh blue (semi-permanent) on each screw before reinstalling.

    Jon Scott - Antwort

    T9 was the right one for mine

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    T9 Torx from recommended barely allowed me to remove these screws. I had to press very strong them into screws, so that pressure and minimal adhesion made it possible to move something.

    Vitalijs Ozornins - Antwort

    T8 was more appropriate for me !!!

    afajner - Antwort

    The instructions at the top recommend a T9 but the link plops a TR9 into your basket. In any event, the T8 works better.

    tom - Antwort

    T8 was also good for me. Mini was manufactured in 2016 October.

    soul.tan - Antwort

    TR7 did the job.

    Benni Piron - Antwort

    • Hebe die Festplatte an und entferne sie aus ihrer Halterung.

    • Beachte während dem Wiederzusammenbau, dass du das Festplattenkabel durch den Slot in die Halterung einführst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel hoch und löse vorsichtig das schwarze Klebeband darunter ab, welches den SATA-Stecker an der Festplatte befestigt.

    • Ziehe den SATA-Stecker von der Festplatte ab.

    • Ziehe die beiden schwarzen quadratischen Klebepads (eines ist im Bild zu sehen) vorsichtig von den Ecken der Festplatte ab und klebe sie auf die gleichen Stellen an der neuen Festplatte.

    The bottom of the hard drive SATA Connector had a bit of black tape on it holding the Mac SATA connection to the bottom [circuit board side] of the hard drive itself.

    Check to see if yours has this as well before applying too much force removing the SATA connector from the hard drive.

    KevCoStudios - Antwort

    Are there any temperature sensors glued to the HD as in the previous versions of the mini?

    Matias -

    I found the SATA cable itself glued to the drive. Once I pulled the cable up and away from the PCB, I found a piece of black tape (as mentioned by KevCoStudios) holding the connectors together.

    dloftis - Antwort

    This tape is critical. For some reason, apple supplied a very loose fitting SATA connector. Tape is required to keep the HD attached.

    James Billy - Antwort

    %#*@, got this far all ok, but didn't notice the tape and pulled too hard, ripping the metal pins out of the connector! Where can I find a replacement part?

    Sky Willmott - Antwort

    Did the same thing, wondering if you ever found a replacement?

    Alex Boyd -

    I did the same thing. I found a replacement on Amazon using the serial number printed on the underside of the connector. It worked like a charm.

    Anthony Califano -

    This guide is almost perfect aside from the omission of a picture of that well-hidden adhesive. I've seen it on other Apple SATA connectors, but it's been a few months and I didn't think about it today.

    Please someone upload a picture of the adhesive on the PCB side of the drive. I'll gladly do it myself when I next open a 2014 Mac Mini, but I've no idea when I'll get to open another one.

    I also struggled mightily for about 15 minutes before finding the small black tape. Like a jerk, I forgot to take close up pictures while I had it apart :-

    I was probably 5 minutes away from breaking off the SATA connector by prying too hard using a spudger on each edge of the cable.

    If anyone has pictures, hopefully they can upload here to help out others.

    This mac mini was significantly different from previous minis I've worked on, the guide saved me A LOT of time.

    Thanks for the great writeup!

    Daniel Cassel - Antwort

    @rebootninja I bought mine last december the 500GB model and just ordered the tools and a Sandisk SSD Plus, I could send pictures of the tape when i do it myself. Im not sure when. Since i'm living in Maldives, orders from ebay and online takes 3-5 weeks to arrive. However, i shall keep a note of what you have mentioned here. I have read the guide twice now and now i think im quite ready to perform the surgery when the tools arrive :)

    Mohamed Malik - Antwort

    Cable looked to have been glued down with just a spot of RTV (silicone.) Easy enough to peel slowly with spudger. Ordinary RTV is corrosive to electronics so if you add fresh, make sure it's electronic-safe. I also reinforced the black tape on re-assembly with a strip of Kapton tape, and burnished well with spudger.

    Jon Scott - Antwort

    If you still need the images for the sticker.....


    Thanks for the guide.

    Leo Rudolph - Antwort

    In order to avoid any kind of issue to the SATA cable, I suggest to warming the part. A hairdryer could works for the scope.

    Claudio - Antwort

    Tough to see the 2 black stick pads. Noticed them on the old hard drive after I reassembled everything with a 1TB Samsung SSD. Don’t think I need the pads as SSD has no moving parts. Would be good if the author circled the 2 pads on the HD.

    Phatcat - Antwort


Um deinen Mini wieder zusammen zu bauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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great , thank-you for help me

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