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Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch einer defekten MagSafe Gleichspannungsversorgungs-Platine (DC-in Board) gezeigt.

  1. Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:
    • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:

    • Drei 14,4 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben

    • Drei 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben

    • Vier 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Ansatzschrauben

    • Wenn du die kleinen Schrauben wieder einsetzt, neige sie ein wenig, wie auch das Gehäuse geneigt ist (sie gehen nicht gerade hinein).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Antwort

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Antwort

    Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

    kschmesk - Antwort

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Antwort

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Antwort

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Antwort

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Antwort

  2. Löse mit den Fingern in der Nähe vom Ventilator die Gehäuse-Unterseite vom Hauptteil des Gehäuses. Entferne die Gehäuse-Unterseite.
    • Löse mit den Fingern in der Nähe vom Ventilator die Gehäuse-Unterseite vom Hauptteil des Gehäuses.

    • Entferne die Gehäuse-Unterseite.

  3. Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board. Es ist hilfreich, beide kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses gleichzeitig nach oben zu hebeln. Sei vorsichtig mit den Ecken des Anschlusses, da diese sehr leicht abbrechen können.
    • Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Es ist hilfreich, beide kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses gleichzeitig nach oben zu hebeln. Sei vorsichtig mit den Ecken des Anschlusses, da diese sehr leicht abbrechen können.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Antwort

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Antwort

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Antwort

  4. Biege das Akkukabel vorsichtig weg vom Sockel des Logic Boards, damit es sich nicht aus Versehen beim Arbeiten wieder verbindet.
    • Biege das Akkukabel vorsichtig weg vom Sockel des Logic Boards, damit es sich nicht aus Versehen beim Arbeiten wieder verbindet.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Antwort

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Antwort

    Wouldn't it make life easier to fully remove the battery for this whole process? I mean, compared to the next steps it's a piece of cake and create a bit more space

    Andrea Pastore - Antwort

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Antwort

  5. Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Lüfters vorsichtig vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen. Es ist hilfreich den Spudger ein bisschen unter den Lüfterkabeln zu drehen, um das Kabel vorsichtig vom Anschluss zu trennen. Der Anschluss und der Stecker sind im zweiten und dritten Bild zu sehen. Achte darauf, dass du den Anschluss nicht vom Logic Board abbrichst, wenn du den Stecker mit dem Spudger gerade nach oben hebest.
    • Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Lüfters vorsichtig vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Es ist hilfreich den Spudger ein bisschen unter den Lüfterkabeln zu drehen, um das Kabel vorsichtig vom Anschluss zu trennen.

    • Der Anschluss und der Stecker sind im zweiten und dritten Bild zu sehen. Achte darauf, dass du den Anschluss nicht vom Logic Board abbrichst, wenn du den Stecker mit dem Spudger gerade nach oben hebest.

    • Das Layout des Logic Boards, das im zweiten Bild gezeigt wird, kann etwas anders aussehen als in deinem MacBook, aber der Anschluss ist identisch.

    Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?

    ricardosaez395 - Antwort

    I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?

    Steve White - Antwort

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - Antwort

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - Antwort

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - Antwort

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - Antwort

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - Antwort

    Rut roh… after trying this computer is running like stuck in mud. the sprocket thing broke and have 2 of the gold looking plugs, now what should I do? any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. fan speed 0 rpm lynz4tex

    Lynn Foyt - Antwort

    I broke it off as well. Fortunately I am replacing the board so the new board will have an intact socket. I just popped the fan plug out of the broken socket and tossed the broken off socket. The fan plug is undamaged and ready to be plugged into the new board socket.

    Speaker - Antwort

    I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

    paczor - Antwort

  6. Entferne folgende drei Schrauben, die den Lüfter auf dem Logic Board befestigen:
    • Entferne folgende drei Schrauben, die den Lüfter auf dem Logic Board befestigen:

    • eine 7,2 mm T6 Torx Schraube

    • zwei 5,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - Antwort

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    No they are T6

    tweakland - Antwort

    Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

    billytalentlovexo -

    It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

    garyrclark - Antwort

    Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

    airshack - Antwort

    Wah. My screws got rounded out and the old fan is stuck in now. Anybody have a solution to get them out without frying the logic board? It definitely seems as if locktite has been used here. Has anybody else found evidence to support that?

    Jimbo - Antwort

  7. Achte auf die Kabel und hebe den Lüfter vorsichtig aus seiner Aussparung auf dem Logic Board.
    • Achte auf die Kabel und hebe den Lüfter vorsichtig aus seiner Aussparung auf dem Logic Board.

  8. Ziehe das Kabel zum rechten Lautsprecher/Subwoofer mit der Spudgerspitze unter dem im oberen Gehäuse eingeformten Haltebügel heraus. Ziehe das Kabel hoch, um den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu heben.
    • Ziehe das Kabel zum rechten Lautsprecher/Subwoofer mit der Spudgerspitze unter dem im oberen Gehäuse eingeformten Haltebügel heraus.

    • Ziehe das Kabel hoch, um den Verbinder aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu heben.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Antwort

    Excellent guide, I feel this bit could be clearer tho. As it is a socket like a fan connector.

    Mine had a foam pad on the top like the other lift-up connections and I’ve accidentally taken the socket off.

    So just to be aware if your mac has the foam pad on top of this connection.

    acupton86 - Antwort

  9. Löse das Kamerakabel vom Logic Board.
    • Löse das Kamerakabel vom Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine. Wenn du das Kabel nach oben ziehst, kannst du das Kabel oder das Logic Board beschädigen.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Antwort

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Antwort

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Antwort

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Antwort

    Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

    giovanni.billet - Antwort

    Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

    moonsugar33 - Antwort

    In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

    To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

    Guillaume Lamaison - Antwort

  10. Löse folgende vier Kabel: AirPort/Bluetoothkabel
    • Löse folgende vier Kabel:

    • AirPort/Bluetoothkabel

    • Kabel zum optischen Laufwerk

    • Festplattenkabel

    • Kabel zum Trackpad

    • Um die Kabel zu lösen, musst du mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ihre Verbinder aus den Sockeln auf dem Logic Board heben.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Antwort

  11. Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Sockel des ZIF Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel oder dem Spudger nach oben. Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur den scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel. Ziehe das Flachbandkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Sockel.
    • Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am Sockel des ZIF Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel oder dem Spudger nach oben.

    • Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur den scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Sockel.

    • Das Kabel lässt sich eventuell nicht wieder leicht einstecken. Wenn es schwer geht, kannst du zeitweise ein Stückchen Klebeband am Kabel anbringen, welches dir beim Einführen des Kabels hilft.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Antwort

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Antwort

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    Thanks! This saved me hours!

    Marc Steffen -

    David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

    simolinic - Antwort

    if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

    Jacob - Antwort

    i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

    works great!

    mark Andrews - Antwort

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Antwort

    “Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

    airshack - Antwort

    The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

    Rob Kruit - Antwort

    I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

    nikowesome - Antwort

    Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

    Zakary Womack - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Antwort

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Antwort

    The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.

    Lee Hughart - Antwort

    PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.

    Robert Daverin - Antwort

    tape tip! genius! first go!

    Alfonso Garcia-Bennett - Antwort

    The most difficult part. It is hard to get it out and put it back. It seems there are a lot of suggests how to do it easier. I spent on this about a half an hour :( Pitty that I didn't see that suggestions before.

    dmitrybalabka - Antwort

    For me the most difficult part as well. Tape trick is great .

    Stefano Paliaga - Antwort

    Foto’s of the tape trick to insert the keyboard ribbon into the ZIF socket: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5xSbqsMBbQzUqu...

    Leon Abelmann - Antwort

    This was super helpful! I started with a rolled up piece of tape, and that didn’t let me pull with enough force to get the cable inserted. Thank you!

    20thme -

    Hi! I seem to have damaged the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket and is there a way I can make my Mac work again through an external keyboard or something? What kind of keyboards will help and how does it work?

    Sandeep G - Antwort

    The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

    Jonathan Davis - Antwort

    Hi, I’m not quite sure how to use the tape to get the connector back in. Any help / images would be extremely helpful

    Matthew Moody - Antwort

  12. Wenn vorhanden, musst du den kleinen schwarzen Klebestreifen über dem Anschluss der Tastaturbeleuchtung abziehen.
    • Wenn vorhanden, musst du den kleinen schwarzen Klebestreifen über dem Anschluss der Tastaturbeleuchtung abziehen.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Antwort

    This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

    Bill Kirby - Antwort

    I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

    moonsugar33 - Antwort

  13. Klappe die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit dem Spudger oder dem Fingernagel nach oben. Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel. Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.
    • Klappe die Halteklappe auf dem ZIF Verbinder der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit dem Spudger oder dem Fingernagel nach oben.

    • Passe auf, dass du wirklich nur die Halteklappe selbst bewegst, nicht den Sockel.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Antwort

  14. Ziehe den Verbinder zum Ruhesensor/Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
    • Ziehe den Verbinder zum Ruhesensor/Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

    dewa - Antwort

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Antwort

  15. Fasse die Plastikzuglasche auf dem Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels an und drehe ihn in Richtung des DC-in Anschlusses des Computers. Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board. Ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben, denn sein Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine.
    • Fasse die Plastikzuglasche auf dem Sicherungsbügel des Displaydatenkabels an und drehe ihn in Richtung des DC-in Anschlusses des Computers.

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben, denn sein Sockel ist sehr empfindlich. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche der Platine.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Antwort

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

    Ahmad z - Antwort

    Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

    mark Andrews - Antwort

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Antwort

    I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back!

    Shannon Maguire -

    My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

    Chris - Antwort

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Antwort

    I second this. It’s quite easy to leave this connection in place. The board flips over nicely, and everything is still accessible.

    Steven Weeks -

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Antwort

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Antwort

    Matt Did the internal display then turn on? Mine is still dark…

    Tony Feldhaus -

    When replaced the logic board when reassembled lap top screens not working. Saw others similar issues plugged in my monitor it’s working great must have messed up any ideas how to fix?

    Wayne McCarthy - Antwort

    Any update on this issue?

    what did you change to fix it?

    Michael Aumueller -

    Hi Wayne, and Michael! I had the same problem, and it was solved by slightly unscrewing the 14.4 mm screw that sits nearest the ESC button (upper left hand side, if the computer is open as if you’re using it). All the way screwed in, and the display conks out (something must be getting pinched). Slightly loosened, and the display immediately came back! —Shannon

    Shannon Maguire -

  16. Entferne folgende neun Schrauben:
    • Entferne folgende neun Schrauben:

    • Fünf 3,6 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 4,3 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 7,2 mm T6 Torx Schrauben

    • Bei einigen Modellen sind die Schrauben, wie folgend beschrieben, unter Umständen etwas kürzer:

    • Fünf 3,0 mm Torx T6 Schrauben

    • Zwei 3,6 mm Torx T6 Schraube n

    • Zwei 6,7 mm Torx T6 Schrauben

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Antwort

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    ForumHermit -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

    rubenwiersma - Antwort

    lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    msvicious510 - Antwort

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Antwort

    There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

    sebdominguez - Antwort

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Antwort

    on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

    jeff chasalow - Antwort

  17. Entferne folgende zwei Schrauben: Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
    • Entferne folgende zwei Schrauben:

    • Eine 8,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 5,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Entferne die Halterung des Displaydatenkabels vom oberen Gehäuse.

    The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

    leotowers - Antwort

    Not necessary to remove the small screw holding the silver colored retaining clip on the data cable retainer. (pictured still attached in the guide) Cost me 45 minutes trying to get it back on which included looking for, and fishing it out of, the places where it tried to hide because it’s so ding dang small it was tough to reattach and seemed to have a guided navigation system sending it everywhere but where it was supposed to go. Additionally, the middle hole on the retainer is empty in this step for reassembly as that is where one of the long rear cover screws goes when you put the case back together.

    tues boomer - Antwort

    Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

    kc7gnm77 - Antwort

  18. Das Mikrofon ist am oberen Gehäuse festgeklebt. Löse es vorsichtig mit einer Spudgerspitze vom Kleber.
    • Das Mikrofon ist am oberen Gehäuse festgeklebt. Löse es vorsichtig mit einer Spudgerspitze vom Kleber.

    The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

    airshack - Antwort

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Antwort

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Antwort

    I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

    You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

    Alex - Antwort

    Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

    raph raph - Antwort

    when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

    Avocet Peregrine - Antwort

    It is better to leave the mic glued down and just disconnect it from the logic board.

    kc7gnm77 - Antwort

  19. Passe auf die vielen Anschlüsse am Rand auf und hebe das Logic Board am Ende beim optischen Laufwerk hoch.
    • Passe auf die vielen Anschlüsse am Rand auf und hebe das Logic Board am Ende beim optischen Laufwerk hoch.

    • Biege die Platine nicht, wenn du sie aus dem Gehäuse heraushebst. Achte auf die flexible Verbindung zur DC-in Platine, die sich am Gehäuse verfangen könnte.

    • Entferne das Logic Board.

    I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

    Jean F - Antwort

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Antwort

    Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

    fasthans - Antwort

    It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

    fasthans - Antwort

    I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

    ingwis - Antwort

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Antwort

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

    Leo Jose - Antwort

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Antwort

    Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

    Denise Vondy -

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Antwort

    The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

    airshack - Antwort

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Antwort

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Antwort

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Antwort

    In my case I need to repair one of the USB ports so I just ended at this step.

    paczor - Antwort

  20. Ziehe das MagSafe Versorgungskabel in Richtung des Kühlkörpers hin, um es vom Logic Board zu lösen.
    • Ziehe das MagSafe Versorgungskabel in Richtung des Kühlkörpers hin, um es vom Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Ziehe nicht nach oben. Wenn du den Stecker nach oben ziehst, könnte der Sockel vom Logic Board abgebrochen werden.

    • Entferne die MagSafe Gleichspannungsversorgungsplatine.

    My experience with the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes me suggest paying close attention to how the DC-in board's cabling is situated as you remove the motherboard from the computer, especially in relation to the microphone and the display data cable retainer. The replacement DC-in board I used had fabric wrapping around the individual cables to the motherboard. Consequently, there is more material to navigate between these parts on reassembly.

    I managed to make it work, but if I had paid more attention to exactly how the cable was routed before removing the original, reassembly might have been easier.

    Larry Horton - Antwort

    DC-in board remplacement ok, BUT, now S and Q keys don’t work anymore… Don i have to change the upper case or something else to do before ??

    ROS - Antwort

    It took me a while  to work up the courage to take this project on….after I’d received  the part from eBay.  I was  concerned about finding a way to get my daughter’s photos and documents retrieved before taking it on.  My dilemma was that there didn’t seem to be a way to charge the battery, which  only had about 5% left.  I used a 276gb flash drive to transfer  the essential  stuff using the remaining battery life.  Then I took the project on.  For a while, I still couldn’t get the bright green or amber light to come on, but just left the laptop plugged in with the dimmest green light showing on the magsafe charger.  After a few days, the battery charged up (almost like a slow trickle charge).  I fiddled with resetting  few things, per several suggestions, to no avail.  Today, however, out of a clear blue sky, I plugged the charger into the magsafe port and it turned green, then amber for the first time, and started charging pretty fast.  It seems a bit finicky about how it rests in the socket. Go for it!

    Carolyn Ryan - Antwort

    Hi Carolyn, I am in the same boat as you. I have the parts, just waiting for the courage ! I have already replaced the battery and the trackpad without any issues. Just concerned about breaking anything in the disassembly process. Maybe Apple make these parts so delicate on purpose so that its not user friendly to easily replace without risk (otherwise everyone would be doing it themselves right - no fun or $ for Apple !).. Wish you were here to guide me through the process (knowing that you have already been there, done that ! so to speak !). Cheers Ron

    Ron - Antwort

    I replaced the battery. The computer turned on. When the battery was dying I tried to charge. It wouldn’t charge. Replaced the MagSafe. Still won’t charge

    theredeygo - Antwort

    I completet this “surgery” on my A1278 Pro, since the old magsafe board did not connect at all anymore. Now my mac can run of the magsafe power supply, however it does not charge the battery.

    Does anyone know what could cause this, or have experienced similar? I did search the answers forum, but the “solved” ones were faulty power supplys or similar. Both the magsafe charger and the battery is recognized by the Mac OS, but it simply says “Battery not charging” when plugging in the magsafe. My battery is working fine and the mac did also run of it after the new DC-in board replacement, however it just ran out of juice just now, since it does not charge. The magsafe LED does not light up either.

    Do I simply have to retrace my steps and check if the connector is i porly placed or did i &&^& something up in my operation?

    Screenshots: https://imgur.com/a/BGZsAve

    It’s in danish i know, but basicly it was to show the fact that both the battery and charger was shown in the OS, number of cycles (1300) ‘n such. Thanks!

    Mikkel Rask - Antwort

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It's worth noting that the two ribbon cables held in place by ZIF connectors are a real pain to put back in - it's very hard to get any force pushing them back into the ZIF connector. It took two small tweezers and a bit of luck on the keyboard cable.

peter - Antwort

To get back the keyboard ribbon I put the piece of Anti-Static Kapton Tape to enter it.

Ivan Oliveras -

As stated the keyboard connector is a nightmare to get back in, how I finally did it is, I presented the cable to the socket and using a sticky label pressing down pulled the label towards the centre of the mainboard

The magsafe connector is not under the mainboard and it would be easy for apple to have designed it so that the socket was on the top not the underside of the mainboard

brian whittle - Antwort

I was using my Laptop (literally in my lap), with the charger connected when it felt very warm on my pant leg. Felt the bottom of the case by the Mag Safe connector and it was very hot, almost burnt my hand. Surprisingly hot. Wouldn't charge right after that, kept getting hot, intermittent charging. Looked at the contacts with a jewelers loupe; the gold contacts were burnt and blistered, plastic melted so it wouldn't make full contact with the AC charger. Charger contacts OK. Replaced DC in board, works like new, saved a bundle of cash. Laid all the screws out in related groups on table top. e.g. All 10 cover screws in a square. MoBo Screws in MoBo pattern, or, you could use a small metric/millimeter ruler to tell which screw goes where.

ovenwally - Antwort

is it possible to use this magsafe board for macbook pro 11" 2011? please let me know!

niloulotus2005 - Antwort

I followed all the MagSafe installation instructions on a Macbook Pro 13" early 2011, and it worked flawlessly at first, charging all the way up to 100%, with the connector LEDs turning first green and then orange.

After that, unplugged it for some time, and now MBP recognizes the power adapter, but MagSafe connector LEDs show no sign of life and the battery won't charge up any longer. Any ideas??

Jorge - Antwort

Great guide. Where can I get the part???

Reid - Antwort

This is a terrific guide. My project, a mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5, was a little different, and the biggest challenges I experienced were places where my computer's connections were different than the model illustrated. So I'll share how that computer differed for those who might come up against the same challenges. I'll add those notes and illustrations in the sections that apply.

I lucked out with the two keyboard ribbon cables. I simply nudged them into place with two different spudgers—one to pry gently upward from underneath, the other to redirect that force to press the cable directly into its slot. I was anticipating a struggle, but it was a nothing.

Thanks for the great work, Andrew Bookholt, and everyone else!

Larry Horton - Antwort

Reid, I got my part on Amazon. I got the impression that the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 used the same part as the 13" 2011 model, but check it out. Here's the part I used: (661-5217, 661-5235, 922-9307) MagSafe DC Power Board - Apple MacBook Pro 13" A1278/ 15" A1286 (2009, 2010, 2011, 2012)

Larry Horton - Antwort

I used this guide to replace the magsfae DC jack on my Macbook Pro 13 A1278 Mid 2012 model. It matches to the letter.

face - Antwort

I did this and all seemed to go well, plugged the computer back in and it started without pushing the power button. It all seemed to work at first, keyboard, track pad, backlight keys. However my friend tried loading up some web pages and it was just coming up in plain text, then her mail server wasn't working properly. So she tried a restart on the computer and now it just chimes, the apple logo comes up, it starts loading maybe for 10 seconds, and the shuts down. we left the power connected and eventually the light on the magsafe went from orange to green, so it seems like that is working. strange that it all seemed to work for a moment until she tried to restart it. Any ideas what could be happening or what we can do?

duncan punkin - Antwort

while replacing the Magsafe DC port the Hard Drive cable might have got damaged. Try taking out the Hard drive and booting through an external USB connection. If all works fine you might have to replace the Hard Drive Cable. This version of the MacBook tends to have the worst Hard Drive cable, personally have replaced it 3 times in the last 6 years of usage.

abhilash_kris -

Excellent guide. Everything went as described and new magsafe works like a champ!

Levi Hoover - Antwort

Good guide, worked out well. Thanks

Mark - Antwort

Replaced in about an hour, I broke the fan conector so do it as is explained here.

My jack works and charge perfectly since the first boot

Erick Servin - Antwort

Same here i don’t know what is the problem now..

BENBACHIR YASSINE -

Worked well. My laptop would not charge unless I did the jiggle with the connector, eventually it stopped charging altogether, so had to do this.

Spent about 2 hours, but totally worth it. My battery indicator lights don't seem to work, but at least the Macbook charges properly.

Omkar Danke - Antwort

Just changed mine and it's still not working. I followed everything on this guide and didn't break any connectors. The green light on my charger is still dim. Any other suggestions or assistance on how I can resolve this?

Peter Pastor - Antwort

Mine is the same. Replacement went well but I also have the dim green light and no charge still. I’m hoping that I didn’t plug something back in all the way, or there is something else that will fix the issue.

Bobby Dirkmaat -

Hey ! I have the same issue here.. Replacement went well.. MBP charged at 80% at the first time and then I unplugged the charger and replugged and nothing happened.. no charge, no green/orange light. Any idea someone ? Thank you very much.

Adrien Mercuel -

Amazing tutorial, I have changed the borad without any hassle.

At one point of time I thought I broke it (at Step 11) but, it was supposed to get out that way. I was not expecting it to be just ribbon.

Thank you very much!!! Keep up the good work.

Gopal Krishna - Antwort

Extremely helpful! Thank you so much for sharing! Most likely saved me a bunch of money!

Justin Patterson - Antwort

I have a MacBook retina 2014 model. The thing wouldn't even boot up. I have changed the battery and got it working again. However the battery percentage does not change from 32%. The charger does not light up to either green or orange but recognises the charger is attached. It also says it is not charging but the battery is normal. Can I ask does anyone think that changing the logic board will work?

Emma - Antwort

The tutorial was Fine, and it worked for like 1h. And then my macbook don’t charge $@$* anymore.

BENBACHIR YASSINE - Antwort

Yess!! I made it thanks to this tutorial.

My reason to replace this MagSafe DC-in Board is that it wasn’t charging anymore. This happend when I had a short circuit on my MacSafe power adapter cable because it was broken.

Hertzberger - Antwort

It worked well. The strip connectors were a pain to remove/replace but it functions properly. It was disconcerting for a while as the fan ran at full speed for about 10 minutes after logging in the user account again.

magawk - Antwort

Súper happy!!! All good!!!! Got my replacement parts and tools and work like a charm. Perfect fit everything!!! Didn’t took me that long not even an hour and also cleaned a bit on the inside!!!! Thanks so much!!!! Love to see the insides of my computer!!!!

Cecilamor Ares - Antwort

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