Einleitung
Replacing the metal bottom case.
Werkzeuge
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
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Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.
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Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.
I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.
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Remove the following six screws:
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Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
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Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.
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These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.
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Remove the four 3.4 mm Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!
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Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.
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Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.
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Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.
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Remove the upper case.
Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.
It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.
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Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
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Remove the following three screws:
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Two black 4 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the SuperDrive.
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One 8.7 mm silver (black in some models) T6 Torx screw at the back of the drive near the speaker.
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Use one hand to pull back the speaker cable and use your other hand to lift the optical drive up and out of the computer.
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Disconnect the ten indicated connectors from the logic board.
this being one step seems daunting to a first-timer... also, my board looks a little different (macbook pro 17" core 2 duo)
Also - no thermal sensor (step 15) on my macbook pro 17" core 2 duo
The logic board screws can strip very easily. I had 3 do so using a brand new T6 hand screwdriver.
I was able to get them out eventually by pushing a T7 very hard into the grooves and essentially rocking the screw. What I mean is, just trying to get it to make that crack sound that the screw came loose. Pushing hard down and trying to twist just a little, and repeat. Eventually they all cracked loose and came out.
Good luck and be careful. My MBP is able to play Hulu videos now without overheating and stuttering!
How to disconnect the connectors? Slide the metal one on the upper left corner out (to the left) with your fingernails or spudger. Pop the black plastic ones out by gently wedging the spudge under from the wire side. Slide the other plastic connectors out with fingernails on each corner in the direction of the wires.
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Rotate the large display data cable to the left and disconnect the small right thermal sensor cable beneath.
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Remove the single black 4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the clear plastic shield over the right ambient light sensor.
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Lift the clear plastic shield off the right ambient light sensor.
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Peel up the orange Kapton tape securing the left thermal sensor cable to the logic board.
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Remove the following twelve screws:
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Seven 6.5 mm T6 Torx screws.
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Two shanked 7.6 mm T6 Torx screws securing the battery connector to the lower case.
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Three 7.8 mm T6 Torx screws.
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Lift up the left side of the logic board and disconnect the multi-colored power connector from the bottom of the board.
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Grasp the logic board at the left side and at the thin section near the right fan, and rotate the logic board out of the lower case.
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If the right speaker assembly remains attached to the logic board, hold the logic board with one hand and slide the speaker up slightly to free it from the logic board.
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To properly reassemble your MacBook Pro, you'll have to clean off and replace the thermal compound from the three chips on the underside of the logic board. Use our Applying Thermal Paste Guide to prepare the processor and heat sink surfaces.
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Disconnect the two antenna cables attached to the AirPort Extreme card.
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Remove the single black 4 mm T6 Torx screw from the top right corner of the AirPort Extreme card.
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Lift the AirPort Extreme card up and slide it out of its connector.
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Remove the two 7.8 mm silver T6 Torx screws from the top left and bottom right corners of the left speaker assembly.
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Lift up on the left speaker assembly and rotate it slightly. It is not possible to entirely remove the speaker yet, as it is still connected to the left I/O board beneath.
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Disconnect the right speaker from the left I/O board. Make sure to pull on the top section of the white connector, not the cable itself.
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Lift the right speaker assembly out of the computer.
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Disconnect the two cables attaching the left speaker assembly to the left I/O board.
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Peel up the iSight and inverter cables which are attached with a mild adhesive above the left fan.
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Remove the five 7.8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the fans to the lower case.
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Lift the heat sink and attached fans out of the computer.
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Now is a good time to lean the fans back and clean out any dust bunnies from the grill. Also clean any dried thermal paste from the heat sink contact pads.
While you have the fan assembly out, flip up each fan and clean any dust bunnies out from the grills by brushing and then blowing them out with sharp breaths. It appears that the only way to thoroughly clean out the dust from the fan grills is to disassemble the parts down to this step!
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Remove the ten silver T6 Torx screws securing the display (five on each side). On the right a 9.6 mm screw secures the display data cable, also on the left the screw closest to the inside is 9.6 mm. The others are 7.8 mm.
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Grasp the display assembly on both sides and lift it up and out of the computer.
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Lift the Bluetooth assembly out of its slot on the left side of the hard drive.
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Remove the two silver T6 Torx screws securing the gray metal retaining bracket to the right side of the hard drive.
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Lift the gray metal retaining bracket out of the computer.
Check the alignment of the semi-circular cuts of the retaining bracket on the new lower case. Though mine was aligned in the old case, it wasn't aligned with the new one. I had to widen the cuts with a Dremel tool. Also, I had to cut a notch in the bracket at its upper corner to accommodate the higher lip of the frame in the new lower case, and I ground down the bracket a bit near the lower screw.
It would be very helpful to have some extra steps here showing me what to do if I have accidentally pulled the ribbon cable out of the Bluetooth unit. It appears to be inaccessible. Is there some way to reattach it without destruction?
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Lift the hard drive up from the right side and remove it from the computer. The Bluetooth assembly and orange ribbon cable are still attached to the hard drive and will come out with the hard drive.
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Remove the four black 4 mm T6 Torx screws securing the left I/O board to the lower case.
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Lift up the right side of the left I/O board and slide it out of the computer.
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Peel up the orange tape covering the right thermal sensor.
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Use a spudger or your fingernail to pry the right thermal sensor off the lower case.
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Lower case remains.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)
amiller770 - Antwort
Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?
Noah Nsangou - Antwort
mine has 2g＊2＝4 gb ram in. you should be fine
on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.
david -
I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?
2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151
2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz
Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB
scannon - Antwort
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
asle -
There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...
His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Phil - 10/07/2015
at0gjm -