Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch eines defekten Displays gezeigt.

  1. Lege den iMac mit der Vorderseite nach unten auf einen Tisch, so dass die Unterkante zu dir zeigt.
    • Lege den iMac mit der Vorderseite nach unten auf einen Tisch, so dass die Unterkante zu dir zeigt.

    • Löse die einzelne Kreuzschlitzschraube in der Mitte der Abdeckung.

    • Diese Schraube bleibt in der Abdeckung hängen.

    • Entferne die Abdeckung vom iMac.

    The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

    Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

    Laurent - Antwort

    much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

    Hofmann78rus - Antwort

    Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

    Jason Augustin - Antwort

  2. Die Glasscheibe ist mit vierzehn Magneten an der Frontblende rings um den Rand befestigt.
    • Die Glasscheibe ist mit vierzehn Magneten an der Frontblende rings um den Rand befestigt.

    • Befestige zwei Saugnäpfe in gegenüberliegenden Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Damit du den Saugnapf, den wir verkaufen, befestigen kannst, musst du ihn erst mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Oberfläche aufsetzen. Dann drückst du den Saugnapf leicht gegen das Glas und legst den beweglichen Griff nach oben um, so dass er parallel zum anderen verläuft.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf nicht halten will, dann reinige ihn und die Oberfläche des Glases mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel.

    A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

    Russell Knight - Antwort

    Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

    Barry Coyle - Antwort

    for me one household plunger did the trick!

    Ronald Huygen - Antwort

    • Hebe die Glasscheibe vorsichtig gerade weg vom iMac.

    • Die Glasscheibe hat verschiedene Stifte um den Rand herum, um sie richtig zu positionieren. Vermeide es, diese abzuscheren und ziehe die Scheibe nur direkt nach oben.

    • Sei akribisch genau beim Reinigen der Innenseite der Glasscheibe und des LCD, bevor du sie wieder einbaust. Jeder Fingerabdruck und jedes Staubkorn im Inneren sind störend sichtbar, wenn der Bildschirm an ist.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass sich nichts zwischen Glasscheibe und Rahmen befindet. Lose Kabel könnten beschädigt werden oder die Scheibe zerbrechen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne folgende zwölf Torx Schrauben, welche die Frontblende am Rückgehäuse befestigen:

      • Acht 13 mm T8 Schrauben

      • Vier 25 mm T8 Schrauben

    • Am 24" iMac Intel Modell A1225 sind die unteren mittleren Schrauben lang, (26mm), die vier an den Seiten (zwei links, zwei rechts) sind mittellang (18 mm) und die restlichen 6 (vier am oberen Rand, zwei in den unteren Ecken) sind kurz (14 mm).

    I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

    Len - Antwort

    Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

    maccentric - Antwort

    how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

    Andy - Antwort

    I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

    airira - Antwort

    As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

    Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

    Bart Van Dessel - Antwort

    I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

    HBloomfield - Antwort

    I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

    Barry Coyle - Antwort

    • Die Frontblende ist immer noch mit dem iMac über das Mikrofonkabel verbunden.

    • Hebe die Frontblende vorsichtig vom oberen Rand her aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Wenn der obere Rand frei ist, kannst du die Frontblende zum Fuß hin kippen und aus dem Gehäuse heben.

    • Drehe die Frobtblende weg vom restlichen Gerät und lege sie über die Oberkante des iMac.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du die Frontblende erst an der Unterkante einsetzen, so dass sie bündig mit dem Rückgehäuse ist, bevor du die Oberkante auf den iMac setzt.

    Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

    armand - Antwort

    you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

    Armel h - Antwort

    Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

    armand - Antwort

    • Löse den Stecker am Mikrofonkabel, entferne das Klebeband, wenn nötig.

    • Damit die Frontblende gut sitzt, musst du das Mikrofonkabel und den Stecker in die Leerstelle in der Nähe der Kameraplatine hineinstecken.

    During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

    Ocean Yamaha - Antwort

    I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

    Brian Tsai - Antwort

    • Entferne die beiden 5,3 mm Torx T6 Schrauben vom LCD Stecker.

    • Greife fest die Zuglasche oben am Stecker und ziehe ihn gerade aus seinem Anschluss.

      • Achte darauf, dass du nur an der Zuglasche ziehst und nicht am Kabel.

    remove the 8 screws (torx) that is holding the screen.

    Gideon Lamprecht - Antwort

    • Entferne die acht Torx T8 Schrauben, welche das Displaypanel am Rückgehäuse befestigen.

    • Der abgebildete iMac ist ein 20" Modell, aber die Schrauben befinden sich ungefähr an der gleichen Stelle.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fasse die Unterkante des Displays an beiden Seiten mit den Händen an und hebe es soweit hoch, das du an die Stecker gelangst.

      • Versuche nicht, das Display ganz zu entfernen. Es ist immer noch am Gerät angeschlossen.

    • Halte das Display mit einer Hand hoch; lokalisiere und löse das Kabel des Display-Thermosensors aus seinem Stecker.

    Make sure you reconnect the cable for the thermal display sensor during reassembly. If you don't, the fans will be running at max speed and you might think it is from the drive thermal sensor afterwards (which is an issue some users have and which can be fixed in software).

    jnavarro - Antwort

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    Brian Tsai - Antwort

    The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    Unplugging the thermal sensor connection is easier said than done, but using the spudger here is very

    helpful

    Peter Bull - Antwort

    • Halte das Display weiter hoch und drücke den Stecker des Stromversorgungskabels fest mit zwei Fingern nach unten aus seinem Sockel.

    • Sei vorsichtig und berühre nicht die offene Netzteils, damit du keinen Stromschlag von den vielen großen Kondensatoren auf der anderen Seite der Platine erhältst.

    When putting this back together it can be extremely difficult to plug this cable back in without removing a guard that is held in by 2x T8 Torx screws just next to it.

    Russell Knight - Antwort

    I will suggest to remove the other end of the socket which is connected to the display panel. You can never imagine how difficult it will be to plug in on the main body, unless you know well about it.

    Michael Shi - Antwort

    I didn't realize these comments were HERE? Poor web design if you can't see comments in an obvious way. Step 10 will cause you the most trouble in reassembling the computer and I knew it as soon as I popped that connector out off the board. Its really f*cking hard to get that connector hooked back up in the way it should be and I have small hands. I managed to get it at least partly pushed in after several tries. Over all it took over half an hour to get it back in there right and scared the !@#$ out of me because I didn't think I could get it done. Those stupid little plastic things won't help you here, the connector really needs to be pushed hard to get it back in. I ended up using a big beefy screw driver for slotted screws, about a ten inch long screwdriver. I used the blade on each end of the connector and was able to give it a good hard push on one end, then pushed on the other end, slowly rocking the connector back into full flush contact. Be real careful you aren't pushing on the ribbon at all.

    sdpickups - Antwort

    Having done this procedure 6+ times now, I can tell you it's much easier if, instead of holding the panel up by the "bottom" as illustrated in the guide, instead raise it by the "left" side. It gives you (me) much more room to get fingers behind the connector.

    May have been obvious to some, but this little adjustment didn't jump out at me until the 2nd or 3rd rebuild.

    Jeff Dickson - Antwort

    There are four screws holding the power supply in place. Two different thread types so make note! Then lifting the power supply enough to easily plug the power cable back in is MUCH less of a problem. Then put the four screws back and proceed on.

    racecornell - Antwort

    That´s exactly how I managed reassembling this connector very easily: Open the four screws, that hold down the platine and then lift it up a little bit.

    info -

    It isn't that hard if you start by hold the display panel up perpendicular to the case on the side of this challenging connector. From here you'll be able to connect the cable, then follow through with the two other connectors (two screws on the last one). Worked great for me.

    cjrocksu2005 - Antwort

    By far this was the most difficult cable to reconnect. I enlisted a second person to hold the display after I unscrewed the power supply (Torx 10, 4 screws) and was able to give my fingers adequate room to securely reattach it. There's no need to do this when disconnecting the power supply, but it would take more nimble fingers than mine to reattach it without loosening the power supply.

    Ron Lockhart - Antwort

    Do not remove this cable....! Too hard to get back there... I had to screw and lift up the whole platine to get the f**** cable back there....

    EASIER IS:

    # just remove the mic-cable (step6),the Thermal sensor (step9) the LCD-connector (step 10)...

    # then let someone lift up (works also alone) the screen on the right side (there where Superdrive is)...

    # remove Drive and Replace!!!!!

    # Reconnect the easy cables....

    anselm pavlik - Antwort

    agree! this cable is really tricky ...

    Johann -

    This step is TOTALLY UNNECESSARY on a 24" model!

    Skip it; you have enough space to lift the panel.

    Robert MacLeay - Antwort

    You don't need to do this step at all - you can leave the panel connected to the circuit board while you replace the hard drive. I did this while replacing the drive on my 24" iMac, just resting the panel on a box I had put next to the iMac on my desk, so that the panel stayed at the same level but was just moved and rotated sideways, with the cable still connected.

    HBloomfield - Antwort

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    The power cable actually has a fair amount of play in it IF you peel back the thin black tape that affixes it to the LCD panel side to expose the power cable connector on the LCD side.

    Brian Tsai - Antwort

    Note: SERIOUSLY:

    - Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

    - Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

    - Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

    - Pull the connection from the LCD

    - Attachment is the reverse

    MUCH easier

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    • Hebe das Display hoch und entferne es aus dem Gerät.

    There is (what it looks like) a display ribbon cable attached that is hard to disconnect.

    Sasmito Adibowo - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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how did you guys go about replacing the black tape that covers the cable on the back of the lcd ?

Francesca Ratto - Antwort

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