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The fourth generation of Honda Accord covering model years 1990 through 1993 available in coupe, sedan, and wagon chassis.

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loss of power please help

Im loseing power right after startup, even if its warm up alread... turn in car as soon as I start giving it gas it boggs out I let off gas and give it gas uts fine problem goes away but seems to start getting worse????

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What engine size is it and what have you tried to fix it so far.

von

2.2 liter. I changed oil and filter,spark plugs CV joint. Gas treatment n tank,and air filter

von

Sounds like the catalytic converter unbolt it or cut it off and see if it fixes it mine was just replaced for $160 at a muffler shop and it runs like new again!

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Mike, if memory serves me correctly, that Honda has fuel injection. That being the case, it sounds like your fuel pressure regulator isn't functioning properly. An electronic fuel pump is located in the gas tank. That pump gives off a constant pressure and that pressure is then regulated to the fuel delivery rail by allowing some of the pressure to bleed off back to the gas tank on a return line via the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum operated, so take a look along the fuel delivery rail for a sort of cylindrical apparatus with a vacuum line attached to it. Insure that the vacuum line is not cracked and leaking. Repair or replace that first if it's bad. You can check vacuum leaks with a hand vacuum pump available at most auto parts stores. Just make sure that line isn't leaking. Vacuum leaks can also present themselves as rough running (not smooth idles). The fuel pressure regulator is an easy replacement if it's bad. The fuel rail on your car is a shiny aluminum stick that runs along the back side of the engine between the engine and firewall. The fuel pressure regulator is located on the drivers side of that rail. You also may want to have a dealer run fault codes on the car. That car is equipped with an OBD interface under the steering column. It looks like a old style computer cable terminal connector. Sometimes the fuel pump is faulty, but in order of least expensive repair, the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is only a few dollar. The fuel pressure regulator is maybe $60, but the fuel pump is about $500 for someone to replace it. I am enclosing a vacuum line map that will show the fuel pressure regulator.

Let me know how it works out.

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Thank you I will check it,or best too go head and replace it.

von

Great description of what to look for. Trying this fix on a 93 Honda Accord anniversary edition that bogs under a load.

von

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I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and my car still loosing gas pressure I can when I'm driving it's like I got bad gas and I don't have bad gas in my car insurance put a new fuel pressure regulator on my 1993 honda accord ex what else can it be

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did you find out if it was the fuel pump i think mine just died on me

von

please check and clean the throttle body, as this was the problem with mine.

von

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I have a 92 Honda accord EX the fuel pump was replaced 02 upstream replaced and when I push on the gas I lose acceleration as well mechanic checked the pressure said it was fine but than there is so much pressure in my fuel that every time I pop the gas cap so much air comes out n than it runs fine for a little bit idk what else to check for.

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Check the main relay. It works with the fuel pump. It is located under the driver's side dash. It can be tested and repaired yourself (YouTube video may be available for a 1991 Accord; read comments to get testing instructions). Justanswer has a 1991 (?) Accord instructions too.

But, of course, there may be something else wrong. Maybe an EGR problem (use Haynes book for instructions to test).

von

I was on the freeway driving my car is running good all of a sudden on the way back home it just cut off on me shuts off now it make a spinning sound when I try to start it again

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I have a 1992 coupe lx honda accord that has the bogging issue when you hit the gas, it’s done it a few times and i thought it was issue with gas not being warm enough after start up but i’ve let car warm up and got same outcome so i’m not sure what it is. i’ve also had my car stall because of reason and wouldn’t start back up and when i’d try to start it back up it would turn over and i would give some gas and it’d make a strange back fire noise or pop from exhaust.

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How many miles on it, I raise this question because of the backfiring issue. It may be a warn timing belt which could effect synchronization between the cylinders, cam, and spark plug firing.

von

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I have a 4 cylinder 1998 Honda Civic hx it recently lost its power when I press the gas peddle it goes really slow and won’t pick up speed unless I shift really fast it’s bogging as well and I checked everything on it the sparks plug the oil I don’t know what else to do or don’t know what the problems is …

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I'm having the same problem. I replaced the engine and trans in my 94 automatic. Didnt know anything about the one I put in so I put the trans from the one that I took out because I knew it ran because I drove it and now that everything is switched it wants to die out after I get about 50 feet in gear. I give it gas at the throttle body outside of the car and it tries to cut off when I give it throttle. All kinds of new parts I have thrown at it and nothing is fixing it. What else can I do?

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In my case, the D4 on the auto transmission shifter constantly flashes green and the car stops pulling. I think it's related to a shifter gear positioning sensor and the computer is getting the message that it's in neutral when it's actually in drive.

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In a lot of these cases on 4th Generation Honda Accords, the loss of power and bogging is because of a bad O2 Sensor. There may, or may not, be a Check Engine light. They oxygen sensor can become erratic without throwing a code.

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mike wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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