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The K-Gro PowerPro is a ridable lawnmower built for K-Mart by MTD and Murray. Released in 1997. Model numbers: 13AL452F120 (38", 12 HP) & 13AQ695H120 (46", 18 HP).

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My lawn mower will start for a few seconds then dies.

this is a 4 hp KGRO Power Pro with a Tecumseh engine TVS115 or 56045B. It has a quick start primer on it. Plenty of gas, good spark, just won't keep running. Please advise. Thanks.

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I found on my mower the gas was old. Drained tank and float can , fill with fresh gas zoom. Also the gas with alcohol very hard on small engines mainly trimmers, some gas treatments like STA-BIL have a alcohol treatment, it is the blue one

von

my mower is a MTD Briggs twin 20 hp and it has started to do the same as described. I removed the carb and found nothing wrong anywhere. The engine starts great but refuses to run when release the switch from start.

von

Its a carburetor issue. Check on youtube for how to's to clean your specific model/tyoe of carburetor.

von

Mix some Seafoam gas treatment in with your gas. Run for a minute. The Seafoam will clean the carb and the rest of the fuel system. It will run like new after you do this.

https://seafoamsales.com/small-engines/

von

I have a 4.5 B&S Craftsman walk-behind and it runs for about 10-15 secs after priming and stops. I have replaced the carb, magneto and cleaned the plug and the gas isn't that old. No change. Any other ideas?

von

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The problem is in the carburator.

You need to clean the carb thouroughly with spray carb & choke cleaner. You need to purchase a kit #631021B from a Tecumseh dealer.

When you take the fuel bowl off, notice about a half inch above the bottom of the pipe leading down into the bowl, there is a very small hole located in the threads that the bowl retaining plug was removed from. That hole is the Low Speed Jet and needs to be cleaned using a fine wire. I use a wire removed from a steel wire brush with a small bend about 1/4 inch from the end. Then use lots of carb cleaner in all the holes you see.

The neopreme seat where the inlet needle sits needs to be removed also. I insert a small screwdriver into the hole, taking care not to scrape the sides and give the old rubber seat a little twist, which loosenes it in the hole. Then a little shot of compressed air in the fuel inlet tube simply blows the old seat out. Use safety glasses & take care where you aim! The new seat has a little circle on one side and is smooth on the other. The side with the circle made into it goes into the hole first. It should come with an instruction sheet in the kit.

There is no vacuum advance or choke sensor on Tecumseh engines, so you don't need to worry about that.

Good luck!

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Might also be a vacum advance problem or a choke sensor problem...

von

Try with out gas cap it cost me a lot of money I came up with answer on my own.plugged vent on gas cap.

von

Where does carberator and choke cleaner go.Spray it wherr

von

I unplugged the bottom of the gas tank, let out the rest of the gas which had water in it put new gas in and it started right up and stayed running.

von

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Same problem as others with Craftsman mower w/Tecumseh carburetor starting up but not staying running for a few seconds or sometimes a few minutes. Discounted ignition as problem as it was clearly a fuel issue so tried all usual tricks of checking fuel cap venting / fresh fuel / standard carb rebuilding [float needle and seat] and cleanout all ports /vents / metering screw, etc as recommended by Chris on this forum. Still no joy and now clearly not fuel not reaching carb problem as plenty of fuel in bowl when removed. Finally figured it out. Mower had been sitting for winter after using gas with no stabilizer, but I couldn't find any deteriorated rubber goods until I looked up into jet tube [this is the tube into which the plug holding the fuel bowl on screws into]. About 3/8" inside that tube is a small rubber O-ring which the plug seals against when tight. It has to form a seal to keep pulling fuel through the tiny holes in the plug up into the jet tube and into the body of the carburetor. When mower has been running for a bit, too much air gets sucked in and stops fuel from being pulled up into carburetor. I changed out the tiny O-ring and problem solved. It is really difficult to get the remains of the deteriorated O-ring out. I ended up using a tiny jeweler's screwdriver and digging it out in pieces making sure none of the pieces plugged up anything else. Just makes me realize how important it is to use gas without alcohol (even if expensive) or some type of stabilizer to prevent the alcohol from damaging rubber goods.

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My craftsman rider will only start and run with that air cleaner off and fully choke by hand. When I remove my hand it dies!

von

What did you do

von

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I wouldnt say it has to necessarily be a carburetor problem. I bought a brand new carb, and it didn't change at all. Now it is starting to look like I need to somehow keepnit running long enough for it to start "siphoning" the fuel from the tank and into the carb. Much like siphoning gas from a car's gas tank, the air has to be sucked out of the fuel lines until there is a steady stream of fuel running out, and causing the fuel to continuous draw from the gas tank and into the carb on its own. In my case, I will need to keep spraying starting fluid into the carb to keep it running long enough to maintain a continuous draw.

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I strongly doubt that lawn mowers rely on siphoning gas.

Designers know that, which is why they place the fuel tank ABOVE the carburetor. To prove that to yourself, just pull the fuel line off the carb.

If fuel is not coming out, then you'll have to find a way to examine the tank and fuel line to find out what's impeding fuel flow. The fuel line may be kinked, or clogged with some debris.

If you have a shut off valve or a fuel filter in the fuel line, there might be a problem there with sediment, or loose debris. Solving those is cheap.

But if fuel IS coming out from the fuel line where it enters the carburetor and the engine still runs only a few seconds with the new carb, then you might have a problem with how the carb linkage and springs are attached. Those kinds of problems are easy to create since the linkages and springs really must be right, and it's rarely obvious exactly where each goes. You might need to ask a small engine repair shop to show you how the linkage should be connected.

von

Loosen the gas cap enough that air can get in. Does it now stay running? If so, replace cap. The vents on the cap get lost or fall into the tank.Now, when you tighten it down tight, It no longer vents and the tank will no longer "drain" much like holding your thumb on a straw. Actually very common.

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rebuilding is the right thing to do,but if you can start the machine put a little fuel injecter cleaner in the gas tank. start engine a few times and let sit over night. works 9 out of 10 times

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Tried that left the lawnmower sit overnight and still the same thing won’t start what can I do to fix it

von

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I have often had this exact symptom on an old beast of a mower. It was also a Tecumseh, but not sure the engine brand really matters. In my case, it was water in the fuel which settled to the bottom of the carburetor float bowl. I could do a quick fix by just loosening the nut fitting on the bottom of the bowl enough to let the water and then some gas drain out. Water is heavier than gas so it sinks below the gas. Usually that was enough to solve the problem. A better fix is to remove the carb and clean it, and make sure that the tank is as clean as you can get it too.

Yes, fuel with alcohol is a problem, probably explains why I had this problem once or twice a year.

Our local mower repair shop will do a quick turn-around on carb cleaning / rebuild if I bring in the carb removed from the mower. In busy season, I get the carb back the next day. If they're slow, I can pick it up in the afternoon. Maybe that's just because they like me, it's certainly not because I'm a big spender! They replace the needle and gaskets, and use an ultrasound device to clean out the carb internal plumbing.

That said, there's a spring on the carb on my machine that I once managed to attach incorrectly, which causes the very same problem. I can't describe the spring, but a good repair shop will show you how to connect the springs and linkages on your machine.

I'll bet you have one or the other of these issues.

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It sounds like we don’t know . I had this problem with my Honda HR194 mower and gave it to a mechanic who fixed it but the fix lasted only one season. Previously it had no problem for 25 years. So do I buy a new carburettor for about $12 or give it to a mechanic to fix for $50. I tried starting it today (28th Feb) and it started and ran for about 5 seconds. I have to wait about 10 minutes to get it to start and it does so for only 1 second and it continues to work if I spray propane gas into the filter box. My interpretation is that after 10 minutes enough petrol has got its way into the carb but the flow is very slow. Maybe a new carburettor would do the trick.

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Paul, see my posts above: carburetor is USUALLY the problem, especially if the machine will run, but only briefly. Cleaning and rebuild of the original carb is best bet. If you found a new carb for $12, it's from China, and those are notoriously bad. The original carb will be better, rebuild by a competent shop will be $30-$50. FWIW, I there's a local "Honda Motorsports" dealer here that claims to also service Honda mowers. From experience, I've found that they are clueless. Our local hole-in-the-wall shop is a quantum leap ahead.

Note also that if "the fix" lasted only one season, that's probably because you left fuel in the tank and carb through the winter. Gas will spoil in that much time, turning to varnish and clogging the tiny passages in the carb. A competent small engine shop can resolve that with tools neither you nor I will have. I'm sure you can get that baby back in good running condition. Good luck! Post back when you know the outcome.

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NGK spark plugs rod in the middle separate when heated after about 15 seconds. Replace plug.

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Carburetor bowl.

Memory is the first to go: this happened several years back, but I forgot about it. I had to come to this forum to jog my memory. My bowl has two bolts, one on the bottom and one at an angle. I just took out the bottom bolt, let a few tablespoons dribble out, put the bolt back in, and it cranked right up and mowed the whole lawn.

1 1/2 minute fix after messing with for an hour to no avail.

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I replaced carburetor in my Honda lawn mower engine with new one, but it was still stalling after about 10-15 seconds. I replaced spark plug , that fixed it, my old one was pretty bad, burnt at the tip.

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Rob wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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