Rep: 13
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Even when it is the 'twist-on' position, the flashlight keeps flickering and switching off by itself. Is there a way to repair this?
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Rep: 263
6
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Yes. You can get all replacement parts on ebay e.t.c.
Probably don't need anything in this instance.
These instructions will work for similar brands or makes of screw style torches with conventional or LED bulbs.
From my experience it can be, in order of most common:
# Fingers crossed if you follow all these in order you should have a working torch for many years longer. yeh! Give me a thumbs up. Many thanks in advance ;)
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Thank you so much, Jason G!
All I had to do was to extend the spring a bit and it works perfectly now :)
I certainly need a refresher course in common-sense :P
Isopropyl is an alcohol. Isopropyl IS NOT NAIL POLISH CLEANER!!! There is no such thing as "nail polish cleaner", but there IS such a thing as "nail polish remover". Don't use nail polish remover, as it contains acetone and will corrupt metal.
Updated. Thanks for your assistance.
I first thought there was an issue with the screw mechanism because the light would give very short bursts of light, but after putting in a fresh battery it works again like a dream. Thanks for the tips.
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Glad you ifixed your torch :)
Like I mentioned above. You have to be careful about the length of the batteries. rechargeables seem to be a couple of mm shorter in some cases.
Also unscrew the top & make sure the plate where the top of the battery meets is clean. Just use some isopropanol or if you don't have that nail polish remover is ok. It is all about getting good electrical contact. All the Best Jason G
Hi! I have the same problem, when i screw it tightly, my torch wont turned on then when i loosen it slightly, it is functioning. What could the problem?
Thank you.
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Have you been methodically through the steps 1-5 above?
Is it possible to repair the twist-switch on the Maglite Solitaire?
All the Best
Jason G
A resounding yes: push out the top part of the switch (where the lamp pushes in) from the inside of the housing (look on Amazon if you want to see what the thing looks like): I used a single piece of steel wire (in my case .044"/1,1mm). it came our easily though getting the wire in to the little hole inside the body was a bit fussy, then drop or shake out the inner body. Once out: either clean up the mess left by the leaky battery or as in my case, since the thing was made wrong in the first place and wouldn't shut OFF, file off a bit off the outer edge of the contact, drop it back in , and reinsert the top/outer part of the switch. Done!! I suspect this also works on the larger 2AA versions. Of course, you are still stuck with those useless and very expensive lamps which, due to metallization of the inside of the glass from filament evaporation don't even last as long as the batteries. I don't understand why the replacement parts are so expensive: I could make them easily with my little unimat lathe and a few appropriate connector parts.
Also, go for the LED version even if it costs a fortune ( or, if your stomach allows it: buy an el cheapo chinese knockoff.)
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