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Going into deep hibernation, not recovering when the lid is opened.

This issue is making me bats***... my comp has done this 4-5 times now, and will suddenly turn back on even a full week later.

Brand new original mac battery after the last time (which I thought finally solved it) and it was running like a dream... right up until it went into sleep mode while I was letting the battery run low to calibrate, and now it is seemingly totally dead as a door nail again, no lights no sounds black screen.....

If I hadn't witnessed it coming back on randomly even days after trying every possible forced boot combination with zero luck I would think it was the drive or logic board But! they seem just fine when it has come out of this stuck in hibernation quagmire...

Sidebar: When it does finally decide to power on, the last several times it comes back with the screen and programs running right where it left off when it happened.

It's really bizarre. Can anyone please help!

Update (06/27/2018)

Hi Dan! :) Thank you so much for your reply, please excuse my very late one!!

The magnet trick didn't work though did find the magnet, so now trying to figure out where the Hall sensor is.

The machine is a Macbook Pro A1229 17" 2.4 Ghz with 4G RAM. It's been running OSX 10.9.5 Mavericks for quite a while. I've had it since it was brand new and it's been a really good one for graphic design projects until this issue.

So far during the trying to solve what it is doing (intermittently working fantastic w/out a single screen blip or issue, then putting itself to long sleeps that would rival a Disney Princess) To add to the mystery it's now NOT doing the deep hibernation style sleep since I've disabled that through the terminal during one of it's wakey times--now it's going into a regular sleep where it chimes up like normal and I can hear it running. During these times it will not show up on an external screen.

I've tried all the appropriate resets and boot combos and also replaced a lot of things to freshen it up overall (including the upper, lower, and top case with brand new keyboard and cables).

I've carefully replaced the memory sticks, the battery, the battery power cable, the left I/O board, the logic board (some of which I now suspect are perfectly good) and was in mid-installation of a brand new SSD with a clean OS usb boot installation when it did it again *facepalm* and it has been resting peacefully since no matter how much I tickle it's little computer toes. I guess this last thing was a pretty big clue that it's something in the hardware? Have even painstakingly reinstalled the logic board in the case there had been some elusive bubble in the thermal paste, all to no avail.

I don't know if it matters- but all the times it's done this is when it's been sitting stationary and untouched on a desk for a while, it's never done it while it's being moved or the lid being open or closed.

Many times after I've changed something, it will pop back up and run like a dream for days -with me thinking aHA that finally fixed it! Only to have it do it again. When it does wake, as always it's popped right back up where everything left off which was why I thought it was a sleep image issue.

Currently on the way is a gently used Inverter Board Assembly as well as an LCD screen with backlight and inverter cable... I will gladly replace this Hall sensor first if it's easier to get to, if I can figure out where it's at!

Thank you again in advance for your help, though have probably thrown more money at it than it's worth to fix it -at this point would like to squeeze a bit more life out of it if I can!

Cheers ~

Beantwortet! Antwort anzeigen Ich habe das gleiche Problem

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Double check your system info here to make sure we have it right!

Moved it over to its own Q so others see it.

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There might be two possible issues here, bad news is they are both related to logic board components. Lid opening and closing signals are handled by the SMC IC and rely on resistor values along the data line. When resistor starts failing, SMC is fooled into sensing lid is closed even if it isn't. It's not a very common issue but such things might happen, I had to fix a couple with the same fault in the last few months.

A second possibility involves a tantalum capacitor that deteriorates with age and heat and then it gets shorted..typical symptom is that the Mac won't start easily when it gets cold, but things get worse with time.

If that's the case you'll have to find a reliable lab specialized in board level repair on Macs to get the job done..it needs dedicated troubleshooting and microsoldering skills.

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Thank you for this information arbaman!

It's never had a problem starting when it's cold so I guess it would more likely the first thing? Also you said the first thing is not common so I am wondering what the odds are I have two logic boards with that issue, not impossible but would be an unlucky logic board lottery to win... wondering at this point if it would be cheaper to try a third logic board or try to have someone diagnose and microsolder one of these two... or if it is wiser at this point to throw in the towel and start saving up for a new computer.....it's a bummer because the body of this one and so many parts are brand new now.....wish I had a magic mac fairy!

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@creampuff Getting a bit mixed up here, as I noticed we seem to have jumped to an entirely different Mac. I agree with @danj here, if it's an A1229 I wouldn't bother investing money in it. To be clearer, even if you were a close friend I wouldn't take up your Mac for repair :)

von

I hear ya, time to throw in the towel.....the mac has been the same the whole time, it was in the wrong category.. I've had it since it came off the press and it's really sparkly and new inside and out, so was hoping to squeeze a bit more projects out of it, at least until I could decide what next..... at any rate I do appreciate you guys taking your time to try to help me on here. Cheers -

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Lets do a quick test, you’ll need a magnet and a paper clip for this.

Slide the paper clip on the displays surface along the edge. You should encounter one or two locations where the clip will be caught by there hidden magnet under the glass. Carefully fold the lid down to give you an idea where this location is (not let the lid come fully down as you could damage it). Now take the magnet and place it on the uppercase at this location your systems display should go off and when you pull it away it should come back on on its own.

Now let the system go into sleep using the magnet give it about an hour sliding the magnet off should cause the system to wake up. The next test is to let the system go into hibernation mode with the lid open and system running over night the removing the magnet should trigger it to come back to life (you may need to click on the space bar here).

If these tests fail I suspect your Hall sensor is failing. The sensor is part of the battery checker on the Left side looking at the keyboard. If your system does not have a battery checker its part of the HD cable on the Right side.

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Hi Dan,

Sorry to keep popping up as different user, I'm on an ancient computer/browser trying to solve the non working one and ifixit will not let me log back in each time.. it's actually now not letting me hit the comment button so trying this question area instead.

Where the heck is the Hall sensor on a Macbook Pro A1229, is it part of the logic board? Despite your very kind answer I still can't seem to find any information on it or if I even have a battery checker. When I look up HD cable I think it is the one that is brand new but am not sure if it is the cable you mean.

Thank you super much in advance as I probably won't be able to log back in if I lose this connection.

von

If's been awhile since I've had to work on one so I don't remember which side. The 17" are a bit different in their layout from the 15" models.

The paperclip slid on the lid should have given you the location if you fold the lid down.

The battery checker is on the front right side (well hidden) looking at the system running. There you'll find a round depression which is in fact the checker button! The LED's are inside the case and are seen through laser cut micro holes in the case just light the white sleep LED on the front.

The battery checker is mounted behind the battery internally on the left side looking from the bottom. You'll need to take it out to see the tester from the inside.

von

Hi Dan,

The plot thickens....I've replaced the part with the Hall sensor (brand new), and also now the inverter board assembly that is in the hinge (could only find used but guaranteed working) (but did not replace the cables that go to the inverter board assembly ).

It still chimes up, fans running, lights under keyboard, and.... black screen. :(

It does not show anything on an external monitor and the flashlight test reveals absolutely nothing on the screen when it's black, same as before.

It has in the past shown up fine on the external monitor during those times when it's suddenly acting totally normal for a short while again, which has not happened since my last post.

When it does act normal the screen looks beautiful, not a flicker or any sign of problem.

Any detective ideas would be extremely appreciated and yes, the Creampuff Lion WILL be eternally grateful!! :)

Thank you,

Kaia

von

OK the problem has changed!

You don't have a Hall sensor issue at all, you have a Dedicated GPU failure!You can prove this by going into Safe mode: Use safe mode to isolate issues with your Mac Once you get your system running go into your system preferences Energy Saver settings and disable Automatic graphics switching so the intergrated graphics engine within the CPU is running instead of the dedicated GPU then go back into a normal boot don't run anything did that help?

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Trying to boot in safe mode, it powers up, but the screen is still staying black.

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i think that means ur dead inside a coffin but odkok

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ha! @alberttahajn I wasn't quite all the way dead inside until I read your comment.

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Creampuff Lion wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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