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Repair and additional information for the GE Café CFSP5RKB refrigerator, a bottom freezer style model with both drawer and door access, manufactured in 2013 with smart home integration capabilities. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern CFSP5RKB****.

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GE Profile Fridge stopped cooling, now its cooling again.

Here is the sequence of events:

  1. Main board stopped working 4 months ago (it took a couple days for it to fully die), After 3 days of power off, I replaced it with a new board.
  2. Three weeks ago, the fridge started making a whining sound when the normally quiet compressor was running (only sometimes, though).
  3. Ten days ago, we woke up and the fridge was 58 degrees and the freezer was 25 degrees. The lights worked, the compressor was running - but still making that whining sound. The air coming out of the vent behind the ice maker was roughly 48 degrees.
  4. We were leaving on a trip that day, so we emptied the fridge (removed the ice, too so it wouldn’t melt) and turned off the breaker so the fridge was completely off.
  5. I came home last night from our 10 day trip, and turned the breaker on and it sounded like it was running normally. After 7 hours, the fridge dropped to 42 and the freezer to 7 (set temp is 41 and 2). After 4 more hours, it is at 40 F and 4 F. It sounds normal, but occasionally it makes that whining sound.
  6. GE Profile model is CFSP5RKBD SS, purchased in 2013, says made in Mexico.

Does anyone have any idea what could be broken? Anything else I can do to help you diagnose it?

Update, 1 week later:

The fridge and freezer seem to be working fine, and I haven’t heard the strange noises. I talked to someone who thought it could be the defrost heater that could be broken, and he said it would appear to work normally until there was too much frost on the coils, and then it would fail. He said to take a look after a week to see if there was a lot of frost on the coils behind the freezer. So, I opened it up just now (and confirmed that both fans were working). and saw some frost on the coils. I don't know if it was a lot or a little, since I don't know what to expect. Here is a picture

Block Image

Update 2 (3 weeks later):

So, the fridge stopped cooling again. During the day I heard a fan which quickly sped up and down, and when I opened the freezer door, I confirmed that the fan changing speeds was the evaporator fan in the freezer. When I say it changed speed, it happened fairly quickly (like in under 0.5 seconds) and would hold it there for about 5 seconds then drop back down. Around this time, the temps increased about 10 degrees to 10 F (freezer) and 46 F (fridge). Then at around 9pm the evap fan stopped completely. I confirmed this by removing the food from the bottom drawer and taking off the small panel. I looked in the hole with the fan blades and there was no ice buildup on the coils, and the fan moved freely with my fingers pushing it. I turned off the breaker to the unit for about an hour and turned it back on and still no evap fan spinning, but I heard the compressor working away. I kept it on for about an hour, and then the evap fan started up again. Overnight it cooled the units to their proper temps.

One other note is that over the past few weeks, I’ve been monitoring the temps carefully with a standalone pair of remote sensors and it does vary quite a bit. The freezer ranges from -9 to +10F over the course of a few hours (without us opening/closing the doors), and the fridge ranges from 33 to 43.

What’s your guess - is my 6 month old main board faulty? Should I replace only the evap fan? If it is my main board, then is something in my fridge causing it to break?

Update 3 (problem solved):

See some of the comments below, but I checked various voltages and thermistors and decided to buy a replacement evaporator fan motor. I installed it and have had no troubles for 3 months since then! I can also confirm that the temp in the freezer does vary by 20F over the course of a day, which I have learned is due to the heater which removes all the frost from the coils.

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Is it the compressor making that noise? Or is it the condenser fan motor down there? Sounds like the bearings in the fan might be going. Check and let me know where the noise is coming from. If its the compressor... you'll have to have someone replace it. If it is the condenser fan motor you can order and replace that yourself. Relatively easy. And would explain the symptoms you've described.

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@brandon_k Its pretty quiet now so I can't tell where the noise is coming from. It is also holding a steady temp at 41F and 2F. I remember last week when it was broken, the noise was loudest when I opened the freezer drawer. I did not get behind the fridge to listen to the location of the sound, but if the sounds start again, then I will do that (is that the best place to identify the source of the sound?). I have never cleaned any fans, and I just searched online and saw that I should clean the condenser fan annually... Is it possible for the compressor to be broken if it is behaving so well right now?

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If it is doing ok now, then no. I don't think compressor is the culprit. I've never seen a compressor run well after having such issues. I'm thinking it is most likely the fan motor. If it happens again, pull it out from the wall and try to find the source of the noise. Going underneath from the rear is the best way to access where the fan and all is. If you're having trouble discerning where exactly the sound is coming from, put a screwdriver to your ear, then against the motor, to see if thats where it is coming from.

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Gewählte Lösung

Compressor

If the noise is coming from the compressor, the compressor might be damaged internally. The compressor internal components can wear out over time generating more noise than normal. The compressor is usually located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the rear panel to access it. Compressors often last for years after they become noisy. However, if your compressor is noisy, be aware that it is likely to fail. The compressor must be replaced by a licensed technician.

Evaporator Fan Motor

When the evaporator fan motor in the freezer behind the rear panel fails, it often generates a lot of noise. This noise will be much louder when the refrigerator door is opened. If the evaporator fan is noisy, replace it.

Fan Blade

If the refrigerator is noisy or loud, especially when one of the doors are opened, either the evaporator or condenser fan blade may be at fault. First, check out the evaporator fan blade in the freezer behind the back panel. Try turning it by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, check to see if the blade is rubbing against something or if something is caught in the blade. Additionally, check the condenser fan blade in the back underside of the refrigerator to determine if it has any obstructions.

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It has been a week, and the fridge is still working fine. I haven't heard the strange noises since then. I added more info to the question, plus a picture. I could see two fans in the freezer behind the panel, they both are working and not rubbing anything.

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@brianfox keep an eye on it. I'm still convinced it is an issue with condenser fan motor. When/if it starts making that noise, check all the fan motors to see which one is making the noise. That'll be the one to replace. Based off the pic your defrost isn't an issue, nor is the compressor. If it were the compressor it wouldn't be working right, now. When compressors fail internally they don't come back from that. Based on everything I'd put my money on fan motor bearings having problems.

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@brandon_k @mayer SEe my "update 2" above for more details about the evaporator fan symptoms. I read online that if the fan changes speed then the main board is faulty. I just don't like how my new main board broke so quickly. But maybe the fan itself is the problem? Thanks!

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@brianfox the fan I'm talking about is not inside the fridge. Its underneath with the compressor and condenser coil. It pulls air through the coil to cool the refrigerant and condense it to a liquid. Make sure that coil is clean, and if the noise starts again or Temps come up check that fan.

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I will post an update to the main post if it works out.. but I checked the voltage on the J2 plug and confirmed that they were providing about 13V even though the evap fan wasn't spinning. I also checked the resistance on the thermistors. I just order a replacement evap fan motor and will install it this weekend.

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Hi @brianfox ,

Here’s the mini manual for the refrigerator that may help.

It shows the resistance values for the thermistor. It may be prudent to check that they are OK given the fluctuations in the temps. The control board may be just reacting to what the thermistors (temp sensor) are telling it.

The thermsitor is an PTC (positive temperature co-efficient) resistor, i.e. as the temperature goes up its resistance value goes up.

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Thank you for the suggestion. I tried checking the resistance and they looked ok for each of the 4 thermistors. I followed the instructions on this really helpful website: http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/refri...

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@brianfox

Presumably you used the resistance values from the manual and not what was stated in the link you provided?

A cup of ice water is about 32°F and the thermistor resistance value in the manual at 37°F is 14K Ω and at 5°F is 5K Ω so the value at 32°F would be between these values and not the higher value of 16.6KΩ as suggested.

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Brian Fox wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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