Zum Hauptinhalt wechseln

Repair information, service guides, and troubleshooting help for refrigerators manufactured by Frigidaire.

86 Fragen Alle anzeigen

First frig warm, freezer cool, now reverse

Two yr old Frigidaire top freezer LFTR2021TFA

Sunday: frig warm. Noticed hadn't hear the characteristic singular 'knock' heard every so often during day . Unscrewed back freezer. Huge block of ice on evap coils, down vent. Melted with hair dryer. Noticed evap fan spin a few seconds, stop, spin few seconds, but that was with panel pulled back, door open etc. Moved food away from vents best I could.

Monday: Frig part 38. Unit seems too quiet. Slight frost on back panel of freezer.

Tuesday (today): Unit still seems quiet. Fridge still cold, same temp even when turn to warmest setting (but not off). But freezer is warming up. No additional frost. Frig was at 37-38; Turned frig to warmest setting and went up to about 40. Just turned back down.

Diese Frage beantworten Ich habe das gleiche Problem

Ist dies eine gute Frage?

Bewertung 0
Einen Kommentar hinzufügen

2 Antworten

Hilfreichste Antwort

Hi @diygrace ,

A block of ice on the evaporator unit in the freezer indicates an auto defrost problem.

This could be caused by a faulty defrost heater, a faulty defrost thermostat, a faulty control thermostat or a blocked drain leading from under the evaporator unit to the evaporator fan under the compartments. All the parts shown in the links are for your model. They are just shown to give you an idea of their location. See the link below for all the parts for your model.

The auto defrost cycle which lasts about 20 minutes is as follows:

Once every 8-10 hours (time interval depends on brand/model) the control thermostat turns off the evaporator fan and the compressor and turns on the defrost heater to melt the accumulated ice build up on the evaporator unit. The melt water drains away to evaporate in the evaporator pan.

When the temperature in the freezer reaches the set temperature of the defrost thermostat it operates and disconnects the heater so that the evap unit is not damaged. The control thermostat then restarts the compressor and the evap fan to cool the temps back down again to the refrigerators set operating temps.

As the temperature drops back down to the operating temps the defrost thermostat releases so as to prepare the operate circuit for the defrost heater for the next defrost cycle some 8-10 hours later.

Start by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and testing the defrost heater for continuity with an Ohmmeter.

If that is OK reconnect the power then check that there is power being supplied to the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment. The fan won't operate when the door is open (you don't want to blow the cold air out) so manually operate the door switch to see if the fan starts to turn and if not test for the fan power supply voltage. Be safety aware as you're testing for lethal voltage. i.e. 120V AC

Here's a link to the parts for your model which may help as there is a wiring diagram shown.

If a part is faulty click on the part to find the manufacturer's part number (not the supplier's part number in the link) and use that number to search online for other suppliers that may suit you better.

Update (05/11/2022)

@diygrace

You are right to be cautious with electricity but it is OK if you treat it with respect and always be careful.

How cold does the evap unit feel to the touch? Wear gloves and use the back of the hand to judge so that you don't get freezer burn.

It may be that the fan is faulty as it should rotate smoothly. There is no control to vary its speed. It is either on or off.

You can bench test the fan by applying AC voltage directly to the fan connector

Here's a link that shows the fan connections (only two wire - AC active (red) and neutral (black) and its specs. If it is faulty search for 5304521244 to get results for suppliers that suit you.

Also check that the fan blade (part # 242219302) is secure on the shaft. It may be that it is slipping and that even though the motor is turning, the blade isn't.

The evaporator fan drags the air over the icy cold evap unit, cooling the air down and then it blows throughout the compartments to cool them down. Usually if the fan doesn't work or is iced up etc, then the freezer is colder because the evap unit is located there but the refrigerator is too warm because no cold air is being blown there by the fan

242044021 - Electrolux Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly Bild

Produkt

242044021 - Electrolux Refrigerator Defrost Heater Assembly

$66.99

242219302 - Electrolux Refrigerator Fan blade Bild

Produkt

242219302 - Electrolux Refrigerator Fan blade

$21.99

241537103 - Electrolux Refrigerator Thermostat Bild

Produkt

241537103 - Electrolux Refrigerator Thermostat

$47.99

War diese Antwort hilfreich?

Bewertung 3

3 Kommentare:

That's a lot to absorb but will try! (I love diy, but I have brain fog from long covid, so it is hard right now.)

Both freezer and frig went back to normal temps yesterday, and as of yesterday evening, no frost build up. But I don't hear it running the way I used to...but I am also losing my hearing (too many rock concerts). At least I have bought some time to try things. Thanks.

Btw, if I call a service person, do they charge less than online prices for parts?

von

I just rechecked and freezer was at , fig at 38. A bit of frost on coils so melted.

Shouldnt this be a big clue as to which part, that it just keeps getting colder?

When opened back panel, with frig door closed, fan was again doing it's sputter. Is that normal with freezer door open?

I just removed back panel which disconnects fan and thermometer thing. I test with multimeter without power, right,? could I bring panel with fan and thermometer thing to be bench tested?

Otherwise, it just seems like too many parts for me to figure out on own. And you scared me with the electricity warning.

von

Ok, it sounds like it wants to work but is struggling, and it sounds like the fan may be the issue. If you have a multimeter check voltage going to the evaporator fan. Make sure it is getting power. If it is, and it sounds like it is, then the fan is most likely faulty. Never fails... on any refrigeration system from the tiny little college fridge to large commercial walk ins, evap fans are one of the most common problem. Also, a failed/failing evap fan can/will cause massive ice buildup. As for the electricity warning... everyone should have a healthy respect for electricity. Just be careful and you'll do fine. Don't touch any bared wires or connectors, and don't let your probes touch anything but one spot at any time, so it doesn't try to short anything out. Long as you're careful and not careless you're good.

von

Einen Kommentar hinzufügen

i think that the frezzer had broken or the gas of cooler had run out refill it or change the frige if it has warntty

War diese Antwort hilfreich?

Bewertung -1

1 Kommentar:

Update: freezer at 11 now, and can hear something working. Frig set at recommended, reading about 38. Flummoxed.

von

Einen Kommentar hinzufügen

Antwort hinzufügen

Gracie wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
Seitenaufrufe:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 0

Letzte 7 Tage: 1

Letzte 30 Tage: 7

Insgesamt: 149