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Handle is melted and/or the door is broken
The handle on my oven door melted off and I have to use tongs or a fork to open the door.
The door was cracked or broken off completely.
The handle no longer functions as a handle or is broken.
The handle can not be separated from the door. Therefore, to replace the handle, the door needs to be replaced completely. Here is a link to a replacement guide.
The door glass is cracked or broken.
The door needs to be fully replaced if the glass is cracked or broken. Here is a link to a replacement guide.
The red light is on, but adjusting the heat setting doesn't seem to have any effect.
Changing the heat settings does not seem to change how hot the oven gets.
The heat controls are worn out.
Replace the oven heat and toaster heat control. Here is a link to a replacement guide.
Broken knob on the controls.
The knob on the temperature/timer/oven just spins or has fallen off.
Check to see if the knob is stripped out or damaged.
If the knob pulls off check and see if the back of the knob looks damaged. Here is a guide to replacing the control knobs.
If the knob does not pull off but spins freely the controls will need to be examined.
The door opens and closes loosely.
My oven door is floppy and/or won't close completely.
The spring attached to the oven door could be broken or it may have fallen off.
The spring could have fallen off or it might be broken. Here is a guide to removing and replacing the door spring.
The heating elements don’t seem to stay on long and it takes much more time to toast. Could this problem be the heat control?
chris - Antwort
My toaster oven is not flush on the front top right corner, and there is a small gap. Was it constructed incorrectly or is this fixable? Also is it safe to use or should I return it?
Abi Hazlett - Antwort
I am in the midst of testing a “B&D” Toaster Oven, Model: TO1303SB, which belongs to a neighbor lady of mine.
We both live (temporarily), at the same motel, and the staff here, made her sit outside of her room on a stand, as it appears to continuously, draw too much current, and pop breakers.
I have tested all switches, elements, wiring, & power cord, for continuity and all tested just fine.
All switch terminals tested @ 2k ohms resistance, and the elements tested at either 20k ohm or 40k ohm resistance, (can't recall which at the moment), and the power cord tested fine as well.
I've not performed any voltage tests, as I do not own a “Variac" and do not want to take any chances of popping a breaker in my own room!
So, if anyone could tell me if this is a common problem with these units, and what exactly causes it, I sure would appreciate it!
Ron Hazlett Jr. -