Soldering Iron Not Heating

This is the place for dealing with a dead soldering iron. If it heats a little you should try our Soldering Iron Not Melting Solder page. Many issues with soldering or soldering irons are also the result of improper usage. Check out our Soldering Best Practices to ensure you aren't the problem.

If you recently dropped your soldering iron on a hard surface it is likely that the heater may have been damaged. If the tip is bent you should try replacing the tip. If the tip is loose, try reinserting it. Some replaceable tips have a built in heater and if the tip just popped out it might not heat.

Check that your soldering iron is receiving the necessary power using a multimeter. A faulty power outlet, blown fuse, or tripped circuit breaker could be the issue. Especially check power strips you are using for tripped breakers or other faults.

Additionally, check the cable and plug for damage. Any fraying, exposed wires, or bent plug tabs are dangerous and should be addressed by replacing the cable. Wiggle cords to see if there is an intermittent failure.

Many soldering irons are temperature adjustable. If your soldering iron has this feature, ensure the temperature is set correctly for the solder and components you're working with.

• Set it to 300 °C (~570 °F) if you're using leaded solder
• Set it to 375 °C (~700 °F) if you're using lead-free solder

You may have to adjust these values slightly depending on what you're soldering. Components with a large thermal mass such as metal connectors, thick wires, or power resistors require a higher temp to form a good solder joint. Small components, especially surface mount require a lower temperature to prevent heat damage.

Lead-free solder has a higher melting point and is less forgiving than leaded solder but is safer for you and the environment.

If your device isn't heating or showing any signs of life do the following.

• Unplug the soldering iron, and ensure it's sufficiently cool (but if it's warming up a little this likely isn't your problem).
• Disassemble the soldering iron to the point that you can inspect the switch.
• Inspect the wires and connection points routed to and from the switch for any damage.
• Inspect the power switch itself for any damage. Use a multimeter to verify its operation.
• Replace the switch if necessary.

The heating element inside the soldering iron can burn out or fail. Remove the tip and inspect the heating element for any cracks or damage and replace it if necessary. If you can't see any damage disassemble your soldering iron and replace the heating element.

If you have a cartridge-style soldering iron try replacing the tip cartridge. Some soldering stations will give an error if the heating element has failed.

The temperature control on your iron may fail either the sensor or the control itself.

Higher quality soldering irons work on a controlled temperature principle. They have a sensor (usually a thermocouple) integrated in the tip heating portion, and an electronic control that uses the thermocouple signals to match the tip temperature to the settings on the iron.

If the thermocouple is damaged or the wiring fails, the iron may not heat. The control circuitry itself can be the problem as well. Unless you can obtain another control board, or are ready for board level repairs, this can be a game ender. You can try changing the heater portion since that will give you both a new element and a new sensor.