Einleitung

Benutze diese Anleitung, um die Display Einheit, inklusive LCD Screen, Frontglas und Digitizer, deines Fairphones zu ersetzen.

  1. Auf der Seite des Smartphones ist weit unten an der Rückabdeckung eine kleine Einkerbung.
    • Auf der Seite des Smartphones ist weit unten an der Rückabdeckung eine kleine Einkerbung.

    • Mit der Einkerbung als Hebel, benutze deinen Fingernagel um den unten Teil der Rückabdeckung wegzuhebeln.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

  2. Lass die Rückabdeckung nach unten gleiten und entferne sie vom Smartphone.
    • Lass die Rückabdeckung nach unten gleiten und entferne sie vom Smartphone.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • An der Rückseite des Fairphones ist gleich inter dem Akku eine kleine Einkerbung.

    • Fahre mit dem Fingernagel in diese Einkerbung, um den Akku in Richtung Oberseite des Fairphones zu drücken.

    • Ziehe den Akku heraus und weg vom Fairphone.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne den Akku von deinem Fairphone.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe die SIM-Karte einfach mit deinem Finger nach oben aus dem Steckplatz.

    • Entferne die SIM-Karte aus deinem Fairphone.

    • Wiederhole diesen Vorgang, wenn du eine zweite SIM-Karte entfernen möchtest.

    • Entferne in jedem Fall alle SIM-Karten, bevor du dein Fairphone wartest.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wenn du eine microSD-Karte hast, schiebe sie einfach mit deinem Finger nach oben aus dem Steckplatz.

    • Entferne die microSD-Karte aus deinem Fairphone.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die fünf 3,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000), mit denen der Mittelrahmen an der Displayeinheit befestigt ist.

    The three upper -next to the SIM blocks- screws are a bit longer that the three others. It is important to keep them like this because if not, they will not tight to the whole.

    Jaime Bosque Torrecilla - Antwort

    There are only 5 screws. I see none longer than others.

    Viktor Steiner -

    You're right, I've just done it and it's true. Thanks!

    Aiala -

    • Der Mittelrahmen ist mit mehreren kleinen Plastikclips an der Displayeinheit festgemacht.

    • Heble den Mittelrahmen mit einem Opening Pick vorsichtig weg von der Displayeinheit.

    • Beginne unter dem Lautstärke-Wippschalter und fahre weiter bis zum unteren Teil des Smartphones und öffne alle Plastikclips an der Seite.

    No need to be TOO careful. Just remove the whole thing, no stress.

    clem - Antwort

    Some stupid person put a sticker on the fifth screw. If you can not find the fifth screw, check if there are any BLACK (yes, black) stickers on top of them. Also, which 'designer' made the first design choice for plastic clips? I WILL FIND YOU. AND KILL YOU. *!&*^#% stupidest way to affirm or secure something!

    maggelo - Antwort

    It must be done very carefully: I'd broken both white pieces. Hope has no consequences ...

    Aiala - Antwort

    You also can start from the interior (white pieces all around batterie place)

    remy.carl.fr - Antwort

    • Gehe vorsichtig um die Ecke und trenne den Mittelrahmen von der Displayeinheit.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Nachdem du um die nächste Ecke bist, sollte der Mittelrahmen unten und an den Seiten frei sein.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Heble mit dem Opening Pick an der oberen Spalte.

    • Um zu vermeiden, dass sich die Opening Picks biegen oder kaputt gehen, heble nicht nahe des Einschaltknopfes, des USB Anschlusses oder der Kopfhörerbuchse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die übrigen Clips und entferne den Mittelrahmen vom Smartphone.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne den Lautstärke-Wippaschalter und die Einschalttasten mit einer Pinzette von der Displayeinheit.

    • Beim Wiederzusammenbau gehe sicher, dass die Tasten richtig ausgerichtet sind. Die Gumirücken müssen in die Kanäle in der Einheit passen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Trenne mit der flachen Spitze eines Spudgers den Antennenkabelanschluss.

    • Gehe sicher, dass du nur den Anschluss aus seiner Fassung entfernst, aber nicht die vollständige Fassung vom Board.

    If you´re replacing the screen you don´t need to disconnect the antenna cable. You can take apart the motherboard, the doughterboard and tha cable together.

    Pacarlas - Antwort

    Well, I actually broke the socket. Does anyone know if it can be fixed?

    thanks

    Yoel Schouten Moral - Antwort

    I broke it too, what to do now?

    jakob -

    What is the thing left of the camera, below the CC \n TC logo printed on the board?

    Luther Blisset - Antwort

    Yep, no need to remove the antenna connectors if you're replacing the display.

    Smorgasbord - Antwort

    • Entferne das Klebeband mit einer Pinzette oben von der Digitizer Kabel Nullkraftfassung (ZIF).

    no adhesive foam on my fairphone

    Sebastian Chica - Antwort

    Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial! it works and looks great again!!!

    Sebastian Chica - Antwort

    foam tape is black on mine

    Ron Ottervanger - Antwort

    • Schlage die Schlaufe des Digitizer ZIF-Steckers umzuschlagen.

    • Bewege das Digitizer Kabel mit einer Pinzette weg von ihrer Fassung auf dem Motherboard.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die drei 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000), mit denen das Motherboard an der Displayheit befestigt ist.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Versuche nicht das Motherboard jetzt schon zu entfernen, da es immer noch an der Displayeinheit durch das Display Datenkabel festgemacht ist.

    • Hebe vorsichtig das obere Ende des Motherboards an, um das Display Datenkabel sichtbar zu machen.

      • Die hintere Kamera kann mit recht starkem Kleber an der Displayeinheit befestigt sein. Achte darauf sie gemeinsam mit dem Motherboard hochzuhebeln, da sie sonst beschädigt werden kann.

    I had to use a spudger to take off the camera. Not an easy job since it was glued quite well.

    Jan Boonen - Antwort

    "mild" adhesive?? Camera is glued pretty well!

    AJ Molenaar - Antwort

    First: English isn't my mothertongue, so please excuse mistakes.

    I also lost the camera. But it wasn't a problem. At the end of step 28 it was quiet easier to pry the camera without being careful about the motherboard. Only the reverse was done at step 18 again. I put the camera inside the hole and closed the connector for the data. After that I connected the motherboard again with the display and put all together back. So everything was at its right place.

    At the End everything was perfect. I'm as pleased as punch!

    Ulrike Jasmin Schad - Antwort

    This was probably the toughest part. It took it's time to remove the camera from the old assembly. As mentioned in earlier comments, it was glued rather well. Be really careful since there is a data cable connecting the camera to the motherboard, and you won't be able to see it that easily.

    Smorgasbord - Antwort

    I took off the camera with the tweezers and thus I had no problem to remove it.

    Werner Lauckner - Antwort

    Possible camera fix after damage while extracting: I too had a well stuck camera, and I damaged the camera while separating it from its small metal plate. The tape holding the plate to the chassis was less strong than the tape affixing the camera to the small plate. The camera seems to consist of a sensor (housed in the silver cube), and its lens (the black plastic bit that separated itself from the cube). The lens is still attached to the sensor by four springy bits of wire which I'm guessing control a magnet which causes the lens to move a bit for focusing. I'm guessing that one of those wires have been damaged and therefor the lens is hanging in its most relaxed state. If you poke the lens carefully with the tip of the spudger you will see that it is kind of swimming in there.

    Daniel - Antwort

    The effect of this is that the lens is stuck in macro mode. Things that are very close will be in focus. A workaround to get the lens to have a fixed focus on around 1 meter to infinity, is to get the lens to push back as deep in the direction of the sensor as possible. This could be accomplished with crazy glue, or similar. I found a rubber washer small enough to not block the lens, which forces it back when the midframe is reattached.

    Daniel -

    You can actually fix the focus more towards infinity by screwing the inner lens part clockwise.

    Samuli Kaipiainen -

    Lifting the motherboard without breaking the camera module is the most critical step.

    I used tweezers to loosen the camera module from the display assembly.

    It worked best for me to lift the motherboard slightly (!), so I could see the base of the camera module, and then carefully separate the camera from the metal part that it is glued to.

    Have a good lock at the pictures, so you know where the camera module ends and you don't end up breaking the camera module into pieces, instead of taking it off the base.

    I had to push the camera module connector back in again, as it came loose slightly.

    Everything worked out fine in the end.

    Dino - Antwort

    • Trenne das Display Datenkabel mit einem Spudger von der Rückseite des Motherboards.

    In this step I found the rear camera unit glued to the display part. It was easy to take it apart and connect it again to the motherboard but at te first moment I was scared.

    Pacarlas - Antwort

    Yeah, please make sure you don't remove the socket, cause I did it, and after that it's a pain in the !@# to put back. If unfortunatly it happens, remember that the two points on each side of the sockets should be align vertically (from the phone point of view) and the line to the side closer to the phone side.

    clem - Antwort

    In my case the camera also stayed glued to the display part. In fact that was no problem - just leave it connected to its metal pad and take both off together (in my case the metal pad was only midly adhesive to the display part). When reassembling just take off the metal pad from the new display and put in place the old metal pad with the camera on.

    eml - Antwort

    It was a good hint to take out the camera and the metal pad together. It worked perfectly well and in the end it was much easier to separate the camera from the old metal pad and to glue the camera on the new pad.

    Mrs Adams - Antwort

    when re-connecting the (new) screen to the motherboard, you have to watch out to carefully re-connect the display datacable. the two parts fit neetly together and is has to do a little "click"-feeling when the connection was succesful.

    ksend - Antwort

    I reconnected the screen to the motherboard by cutting a small rectangle of cardboard and slide it under the display connector to lift it a little bit. Then you can lay down the mainboard connector on top of it and press it down. It will click in place. Next, slightly lift the topside of the mainboard to remove the cardboard with a pair of tweezers.

    jeroen.hilgers - Antwort

    • Entferne das Motherboard von der Displayeinheit.

    My camera stayed glued to the metal frame. I had to take it of seperately.

    Tijs Dekker - Antwort

    • Trenne mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Antennenkabelanschluss.

    • Achte darauf, an dem Anschluss zu hebeln und nicht an der Fassung.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Klappe die Schlaufe auf dem Nullkraftsockel des Daughterboard Datenkabels mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers um.

    • Ziehe mit einer Pinzette das Datenkabel des Daughterboards von seiner Fassung weg.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die das Wi-Fi Daughterboard an der Displayeinheit festmachen:

      • Zwei 2,5 mm Kreuschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000)

      • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuschlitzschraube (Phillips #000)

    No "1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw" in my phone

    Erik Buelinckx - Antwort

    No One 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw in Ynte's Fairphone.

    Inge - Antwort

    no one in mine either

    Koen Go - Antwort

    Not in mine either...

    Tijs Dekker - Antwort

    My Fairphone is also lacking the orange marked screw.

    Jan Boonen - Antwort

    Missing in mine too!

    elizabethnorseng - Antwort

    missing screw, too.

    joseph - Antwort

    • Das Wi-Fi Antennen Daughterboard ist am Front Assembly mit einem leichten Kleber angebracht.

    • Heble das Board vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette hoch und entferne es vom Smartphone.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher ist auf der Rückseite der Displayeinheit mit etwas Kleber angebracht.

    • Heble den Lautsprecher mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers von der Displayeinheit hoch.

    • Entferne den Lausprecher.

    The earpiece speaker may have a 'rubber ring' glued to the front side. The new display assembly will probably have one of these already installed in the earpiece socket, covered with a protective orange ring. I peeled the old 'rubber ring' from the old earpiece, and then put the earpiece into the new display assembly. Old ring went back into the old display. But I guess you could put the new ring into the old assembly, and then you don't have to peel the earpiece apart...

    Tim Sparks - Antwort

    I somehow managed to break the speaker in this step (It was my first repair ever) .. Got a new one for less than 2€ at the fairphone parts shop, replaced it and it works now.

    Stefan Tzeggai - Antwort

    • Entferne das Antennen-Verbindungskabel von der Displayeinheit.

    • Die drei Kabelabschnitte mit freiliegendem Metall passen in die Erdungsklemmen auf der Seite der Displayeinheit.

    In this step you need to replace the earpiece speaker too, follow this guide: Fairphone 1 Display Einheit ersetzen

    Pacarlas - Antwort

    Don't forget to put two little rubber parts over the proximity sensor and the notification LED on the new display, otherwise the proximity sensor will bug out later. They are visible in the picture for Step 18.

    http://i.imgur.com/0KB58wS.jpg

    vfehrmann - Antwort

    Sadly I lost the small rubber part in front of the proximity/light sensor.

    Any idea where i can get it, because I have now the bug, everytime a call comes in, the display will turn and stay black until the call is ended :-(

    Thanks!

    pappou -

    Which parts are the proximity sensor and the notification LED?

    Andrew Fleming -

    Indeed, the rubber parts didn't came at first, and lastly also the speaker was stuck on the old phone, so this was a rather unwelcome discovery for a non-technician wanting to repair the phone. By lifting it off a small rubber joint came with it so this had to be removed before gluing it back on the new front (a protective adhesive tape needed first to be removed too so this speaker could nicely be glued on. (of course all this is written still without reassembling my phone). Erik

    Erik Buelinckx - Antwort

    It worked ! I managed to get everything back in place, even after suddenly finding another small rubber thing on my table which after magnifying the pictures here, seemed to have fallen of the motherboard.

    So, a part from the fact that this Dragontrail glass is not so strong as promised, I'm really happy I could repair my Fairphone myself.

    Erik Buelinckx - Antwort

    • Entferne die Gummiführung von der Einkerbung bei der Vertiefung der Frontkamera.

    • Versetze den Gummistopfen ans neue Display und passe dabei auf, dass er sich lockert.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die Gummidichtung rechts von der Einkerbung des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers.

    • Achte darauf, dass du ihn nicht verlierst und übertrage ihn in derselben Ausrichtung: großes Loch rechts, kleines links, auf das neue Display.

    • Der Chip des Touchsensors deines Ersatzdisplays wird mit einem Stück gelben Tape bedeckt sein. Entferne dieses Tape nicht; wenn du es doch tust, kann es sein, dass dein Smartphone nach dem Zusammenbau nicht funktioniert.

    When putting the rubber placeholder back in place watch for the right direction. It has a bigger and a smaller hole and they must be placed in the right orientation, otherwise the proximity sensor does not work properly (display is turned off immediately when calling someone)

    Carl Hinrichs - Antwort

    The bigger hole must be on the right site. I replaced mine and put it back the wrong way. Thanks to Carls post now I can see my screen while calling. :) When someone lost the rubber part, I have 1 left.

    ilvy - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

102 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

100%

Jasper Fleischhauer hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

Mitglied seit 17.10.2009

394.825 Reputation

412 Anleitungen geschrieben

Team

iFixit Mitglied von iFixit

Community

113 Mitglieder

7.353 Anleitungen geschrieben

So far, so good.

My display is replaced now.

Unfortunately, removing the motherboard easily destroyed the camera, which didn't come up with the motherboard, being glued to display at the back.

So now I gotta get a new camera and do the hole thing again -.-

Atrocio - Antwort

step 20:

Watch out not to loose the two rubber things of step 27 and 28 while taking out the motherboard. I foud the small one floor.

Koen Go - Antwort

The Camera is not mentioned at all. It's glued to the Display and yet still working, it can't focus anymore. So I might have to get a new one as well.

Juliane Grossmann - Antwort

Screen fixed :-) thanks for the guide!

Watch the glued camera on step 19...

Aitor - Antwort

Awesome! Did it, and everything still works. Mighty pleased with myself. Thank you, iFixit!!!

Meike Hensmann - Antwort

same with me here, Atrocio. :(((( Be really careful with the camera....

krista - Antwort

Thanks for the guide. It all worked perfectly. Took about 75 min being very careful and moving slowly all the time.

Mrs Adams - Antwort

Just did it successfully. Great guide!

mathieubernou - Antwort

ouf, j'ai réussi à remplacer mon écran fissuré suite à une chute. Je suis prêt à contribuer en traduisant les parties complexes du tutoriel en français, si quelqu'un peut m'indiquer la marche à suivre pour proposer une version FR.

Plusieurs étapes sont assez complexes - stressantes (comme indiqué l'APN qui reste collé et ne se détache pas de la carte mère par ex.) mais ne requièrent aucune compétence spécifique, juste du doigté et de la patience.

En tout cas merci

cvdwalle - Antwort

salut, toi aussi tu dirais que ca prend environ une heure ?

cazeph -

Pfew!!! Done... Thanks for all the pics, comments, and instructions (Nico/France)

nicolaslerouge - Antwort

It works perfectly and looks like a new phone! Wow!

I also avoided step 21 and removed the wifi cable together with the board.

Hint for camera step 18: It was glued on very well. What I did was to lift the mainboard slighty and entered with a screwdriver between camera and case. Finally I saw that the metal plate came off too which you already have in your new case. But it was then much easier to remove it after the disassembly with my fingernails. To be able to do this step you have to remove the power button but I would recommend that anyway.

Christian - Antwort

Great pictures and explanations!! Thank you very much! It took me about 30 minutes to do it.Happy! :-)

barbarahardmeier - Antwort

45 min. But camera lost autofocus :-(.

It was glued too hard so removal was difficult and probalbly damaged it…

Gert Arijs - Antwort

45 min. But camera lost autofocus :-(.

It was glued too hard so removal was difficult and probalbly damaged it…

Gert Arijs - Antwort

Hi everybody!

My screen is broken.. Does someone knows where I can find a new one?

Thanks!!!

Sofi Boo - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen

Statistik anzeigen:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 3

Letzte 7 Tage: 28

Letzte 30 Tage: 176

Insgesamt: 33,387