Einleitung

Es hat viele Vorteile, eine zweite Festplatte in deinen iMac einzubauen, so wird z.B. die Geschwindigkeit größer, es gibt mehr Speicherplatz und das Installieren neuer Software bereitet dir weniger Kopfzerberechen. Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du eine zweite Festplatte anstelle des optischen Laufwerks einbauen kannst.

  1. Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.
    • Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.

    • Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - Antwort

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Antwort

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - Antwort

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - Antwort

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Antwort

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Antwort

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - Antwort

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Antwort

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Antwort

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Antwort

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - Antwort

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Antwort

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Antwort

  2. Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe  angebracht sind zu befreien.
    • Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.

    • Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Antwort

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    • Entferne die acht 8 mm Torx T10 Schrauben, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.

      • Die letzten beiden Bilder sind Detailansichten jeder Seite des Displays.

    Replacing the screws , especially the two uppermost ones , is awkward due to the magnets attracting the screws off the Torx driver

    Anoop Sahal - Antwort

    I’ve done an HDD replacement on an A1174 (and I’m about to do this model), which is nightmarish, but by far the best solution I found was to use a bit of Blu Tack or the equivalent on the driver.

    Boris - Antwort

    I’ve just replaced the screws by making a little tube from paper and wrapping it round each screw to keep it contained. A cut-down straw would be perfect for job.

    Guy Whittaker - Antwort

    • Hebe die Oberkante des Displays leicht aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Hebe es nicht zu weit heraus. Es ist noch mit verschiedenen Kabeln mit der Hauptplatine verbunden.

    After sliding the display slightly towards the top edge, enough for the bottom edge to clear the retainers, an alternative is to raise the bottom edge out. Then unplug the LED backlight power cable (this step + 2), unplug the LCD thermal sensor cable (this step + 4), unplug the display data cable (this step + 3), and the display may be rotated over the top edge while leaving the vertical sync cable attached (this step + 1).

    Jerry - Antwort

    • Ziehe den Verbinder am Kabel der Vertikalsynchronisation aus seinem Sockel auf der Platine der LED Versorgung in der Nähe der oberen linken Ecke des iMac.

    Do not try to pull the plug off the circuit board as it's soldered. Pull the cable sideways out of the socket.

    Alex Campbell - Antwort

    Skipped step 5-10. I used two 5-6" chopsticks to prop up the display, this gave me more than enough room to complete the rest of the steps. I only had to disconnect the 3 cables are directly connected to the hard drive. Replacing the Seagate hard drive with another Seagate hard drive eliminated any cable issues. Now I have 2TB SSDH

    jaime martinez - Antwort

    I was also able to skip steps 5 thru 10, which meant no messing with any cables except for the two for the HD (steps 13+14). Used a credit card to start the removal of glass panel (step 2) - much easier than I imagined. After removing display screws (step 3) I simply had a friend hold up the display's bottom edge as far as the cables would allow (careful not to stress at connection to logic board) and this provided enough room to remove the HD bracket screws (step 11), detach the HD cables, and remove the HD. Was replacing a failed 1TB Seagate with a 3TB Seagate so no problems with compatibility when reattaching the HD cables and everything worked fine when I restored the OS and data to the new HD. No fan issues. I did take great care to not get fingerprints on the inside of the glass panel and to blow off any dust specks before reinstalling it. It was a bit tricky to get the new HD back in without letting the magnets get a hold of it, so thanks for the warning posted here about that!

    Chuckles McBunny - Antwort

    On my mid 2010 Imac I found it was not necessary to disconnect any cables (except of course those attached to the drive). Simply angle the monitor away from the case to a safe distance without stressing any cables and secure with tape. With a stubby screw driver it was easy to access and remove the drive.

    Michael Husselbee - Antwort

    • Drehe das Display soweit aus dem Gehäuse heraus, dass du das Versorgungskabel der LED Rückbeleuchtung von der LED Versorgungsplatine lösen kannst.

    • Um das Kabel zu lösen, musst du gleichzeitig die Sicherung am Stecker drücken und den Stecker weg vom Sockel ziehen. ( In Richtung Unterkante des iMac.)

    This is real tricky it is fragile and you have to pull it along the logic board.

    John - Antwort

    • Das Displaydatenkabel hat einen Verschlussbügel aus Draht. Entriegele den Verschluss, indem du die Plastiklasche nach oben drehst. (Es ist keine Zuglasche)

    • Ziehe das Displaydatenkabel gerade aus dem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

      • Der Sockel ist sehr empfindlich, ziehe das Kabel nicht nach oben. Ziehe parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

    This cable is very short, I would remove it before any of the others. First time I did this, I didn't realize this and this cable just popped out of it's socket. Luckily, the board wasn't damaged.

    maccentric - Antwort

    i damaged my (step7) cable, and my iMac screen won't work, how to fix this?

    Ersan Rasubala - Antwort

    I did the same thing. The pins are VERY easy to bend. I replaced it with a new cable from this company.

    http://www.macpalace.com/922-9497-cable-...

    Waiting for it to arrive.

    Michael -

    I wish this step was listed as a warning before lifting the monitor and as the first cable to undo. I broke it as it popped up and out, had to trash my Mac and I am stuck with a new hard drive.

    Frank1701a - Antwort

    I followed the directions to a T and everything worked going back together. That cable in step 7 is delicate so one must be very careful.

    dustynnelson -

    Same problem for me. I damaged this cable and am ordering one now.

    This is a tough step so I would also suggest removing this cable first.

    lyleberman - Antwort

    Yes, damaged mine too. It is better to take it out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board, then install it to the LCD.

    asle -

    Ok finally got the cable and was able to successfully finish the project.

    That video cable is ROUGH to install.

    lyleberman - Antwort

    The same thing happened for me. That cable was by far the shortest and a slight pull of the display up caused the connector to come free. Luckily it wasn't damaged by this. It was pretty unclear to me how that connector fit in as well. It slides in and out parallel to the surface of the mother board, up towards the top of the iMac to unplug and down towards the bottom to plug in. I agree, if I were to do this repair again that is the first interior cable I would disconnect. Maybe a closeup of the cable plugged in and unplugged to show exactly how it engages and disengages would be good as well.

    danieljseta - Antwort

    It is fine to remove the cable from the logic board when when you remove the screen. But when when assembling back together I found it better to take the LVDS cable out of the LCD and install it carefully on the logic board. Then connect it to the top of the LCD. Also the connector to the LCD is much more solid and not so easy to bend.

    asle - Antwort

    This is by far the best way round to do this as trying to refit the cable to the logic board is a complete nightmare.

    Russ -

    I agree with asle, manipulating the display end of the cable would be easier - at least it cannot be any harder then manipulating the motherboard end.

    Jerry -

    well I did all t these steps and now the iMac won't turn on at all. I guess the big cable is not connected to the board as it used to... Mac is out of warranty so it's going out the door. RIP

    Gilbert Palau - Antwort

    this thing is super fragile. i had to order a new one. i'd recommend removing the other end at the top of the display.

    m Burm - Antwort

    this part is not complicated if you understand at first how the lock works.. remove the lock is easy, reassemble the cable and connect it is very problematic because the space to work is very tiny, but if you are carefully, it should be not a problem . try to see some videos from youtube first!

    Cristian Pizarro - Antwort

    This totally blows.. If you want to do this correctly and not destroy your computer over this step, - OWC’s video will show you EXACTLy what to do with the display cable ..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation...

    Luis Garcia - Antwort

    Don’t raise the display more than 3-4 inches. Pull the tape off the back of the display and unhook the cable from the display, instead of trying to remove it from the motherboard. As soon as I raised the display, the cable snapped loose. Ordered a new cable from Amazon. Am waiting to see if works ok.

    john - Antwort

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Löse den Verbinder des Thermosensorkabels zum LCD aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn der Ventilator nach dem Zusammenbau auf Höchstdrehzahl arbeitet, musst du die Orientierung an diesem Verbinder oder am Thermosensorkabel der Festplatte prüfen.

    Be very careful - this connector very difficult to disconnect, and you have a high risk of pulling the cable pins out of the connect. If you have disconnected the 3 other cables, you can have a helper rotate the screen out of the way while you remove the hard drive.

    Brian Tsai - Antwort

    I found this connector impossible to remove

    Anoop Sahal - Antwort

    I also found this extremely difficult to remove. Tiny cable with a death grip. I tried using two spudgers, my fingernails, and walking it out. In the end, I used two spudgers and pried it up, using leverage from the clip to the right.

    Also, i recommend setting the iMac upright for this. I rested the screen on my chest while I dual wielded my spudgers.

    Alex Grayson - Antwort

    eer ist zerbrochen! hoffe krieg ihn dann trotzdem wieder rein

    Peter Pawlowicz - Antwort

    This was connector was impossible to remove. Like a previous commenter, I did this with the machine upright and with the LCD Panel resting on my upper chest. Ultimately, the pins pulled out of the socket! Once they were out, it was relatively easy to remove the socket. I completed the drive replacement, (installed a 1 TB SSD) and then replaced the pins in the socket and reassembled the machine. One mental error I made was I couldn’t remember the correct orientation for the Black and White wires in the socket. In looking at the photos here on iFixIt, it looks like I reversed their orientation. However, the machine seems to be running fine. I installed macos High Sierra and migrated my data from my old HD and the machine has been running for two days now. I would hate to have to go back in and remove the socket and reverse the wire orientation. Anyone have advise on this?

    jmaher - Antwort

    In followup to my previous post, I launched TechTool Pro 9.6.1 and ran the Sensors Test. All Sensors tests were passed. These included:

    LCD Proximity, LCD Thermal Compensation 2, LCD Proximity, Thermal Compensation. Machine seems to be running fine.

    jmaher -

    • Ziehe das Display vorsichtig in Richtung Oberkante des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne folgende vier Torx Schrauben:

      • Eine 9,3 mm T10 Schraube mit breitem Kopf

      • Drei 9,3 mm T10 Schrauben mit normalen Köpfen

    The 4 srews are equal

    hybanibienen - Antwort

    • Löse den Verbinder zum Thermosensor am optischen Laufwerk aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board, indem du ihn in Richtung Oberkante des iMac ziehst.

    No need to do this! Just gently pull up the felt-pad sticky on top of the thermal sensor (looks like a tiny circuit board), then (again gently) peel the thermal sensor off the ODD. Leave it hanging while you remove the ODD and replace it with the SSD, then just put the thermal sensor covered by the protective felt-pad back onto the SSD enclosure.

    cdansmith1 - Antwort

    I agree with cdansmith1, above.

    I had removed the sensor completely. Booted up and the fan was like a jet engine - 4200rpm! I opened up the mac again to check the LCD thermal sensor cable was connected properly (as warned in Step 8). It was.

    So, I simply used the spudger to peel off the felt sticky pad from and then the optical drive sensor too from the drive I'd taken out. Stuck the sensor onto the SSD using the same sticky pad, plugged it back into the original socket. Bingo. Booted up and everything was back to normal.

    Monkeyrebirth - Antwort

    • Hebe die innere Kante des optischen Laufwerks an und bewege seinen Verbinder am GPU Rahmen, der am Logic Bordbefestigt ist, vorbei.

    • Ziehe das optische Laufwerk vorsichtig aus den Befestigungsstiften an der rechten Seite des äußeren Gehäuses, damit du etwas Platz gewinnst, um das Kabel des optischen Laufwerks lösen zu können.

    • Lasse das optische Laufwerk herunterhängen, während du den Verbinder zum Thermosensor am optischen Laufwerk hinter dem Kühlkörper der GPU herauslöst.

    this part is complicated because the wire is very delicate. when you try to extract it passing through the others elements this wire trap it very easily on the other elements of the logic board

    Cristian Pizarro - Antwort

    • Löse den Anschluss vom optischen Laufwerk indem du den Verbinder vom Laufwerk weg ziehst.

    • Entferne das Laufwerk vom iMac.

    • Wenn du ein zweites Laufwerk einbaust, darfst du nicht vergessen den Thermosensor vom optischen Laufwerk auf den neuen Laufwerkseinschub zu übertragen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die drei 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitz #0 Schrauben aus dem Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin - Antwort

    plug in the back of the ssd

    Roman Quenin -

    I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    However I have NOT confirmed this.

    Allen Borza -

    If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

    EkDor - Antwort

    I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

    Cristian Pizarro - Antwort

    The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

    benja.mcg - Antwort

    • Öffne das Gehäuse, indem du von der linken Kante ausgehend vorsichtig ziehst.

    • Ziehe weiter an den beiden Gehäusehälften, bis sie sich trennen.

    This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

    Cristian Pizarro - Antwort

    • Entferne die beiden 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitz #0 Schrauben, mit welchen die Frontblende am Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks befestigt ist.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe die schwarze Kunststoff-Frontplatte aus dem Gehäuse der Optical Bay.

      • Du benötigst weder die Frontblende noch die beiden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, mit denen sie an ihrem Platz gehalten wurde. Bewahre die Teile für den Fall auf, dass du jemals wieder die Frontblende in das Gehäuse einsetzen möchtest.

    • Baue das Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks ohne die Frontplatte unter Verwendung der drei originalen 3,0 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben wieder zusammen.

    Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

    Nic Johnson - Antwort

    Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

    Jeff Dickson -

    So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

    For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

    Ron Lockhart - Antwort

    Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

    olafgoy -

    My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

    Kevo -

    Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

    Monkeyrebirth -

    I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

    nickmalmquist -

    Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

    EkDor - Antwort

    I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

    Keith Mewis - Antwort

    Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

    Alex -

    Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

    Walter Poole -

    I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

    The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

    Marc - Antwort

    • Entferne den Abstandshalter aus Kunststoff vom Gehäuse des optischen Laufwerks, indem du einen der Clips auf beiden Seiten eindrückst und ihn dann nach oben aus dem Gehäuse heraushebst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Stelle sicher, dass die Anschlüsse nach unten zeigen, bevor die Festplatte in das Gehäuse eingesetzt wird.

    • Lege die Festplatte vorsichtig in das Gehäuse.

    • Während eine Hand das Gehäuse an Ort und Stelle hält, drücke mit der anderen Hand die Festplatte an die Anschlüsse im Gehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Sobald die Festplatte fest sitzt. kannst du den Abstandshalter aus Kunststoff wieder einsetzen. Drücke dabei die Festplatte gegen die Unterseite des Gehäuses.

    • Schließe alle Kabel, die du vom ursprünglichen Laufwerk entfernt hattest, am optischen Laufwerk an.

    Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

    Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

    nickmalmquist - Antwort

    Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

    Erik Sawaya - Antwort

    It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

    The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

    Graziano Nora - Antwort

    Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

    Peter Bull - Antwort

Abschluss

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Well, actually, it was much easier than I thought.

The only problem about this is that the hard drive temperature sensor cable. Even I bought the same brand HD, it still doesn't work. So I have to install fan control to control the fan speed.

But other than that, it works very smooth. The speed is great.

Thanks, ifixit. The home tech toolkit is great and really helpful.

abouthui - Antwort

Hi. I wanna know if is mandatory to connect the SSD with enclosure or it's possible to connect directly to SATA cable like on model EMC 2428 that has an third SATA conector free and then fix the SSD to back panel with 3M

Ibai Bi - Antwort

Im pretty sure if you want to just mount it with tape that would be perfectly fine. Had mine apart and even thought about it myself before properly mounting it.

scottmcintyre -

2389 doesnt support this. cd player isnt even sata

ty no ty

Martijn Potman - Antwort

I just replaced with a 250GB SSD... So yes it does support this.

scottmcintyre -

Well this was the second time taking the iMac apart as I had ordered an mSATA drive instead of SATA for the Optical bay swap. Got it apart and back together pretty fast and without issues except for the mounting bracket from the Optical drive doesn't fit that great onto the HD mount to replace it. The kit almost needs to come with a custom fitting mount piece but then again that would just cost more money.

OH!!!! and the kit I bought there was no need whatsoever to take the optical replacement mount apart... it was all in one piece and good to go, just don't forget the little set screw that secure the 2.5" drive into the mount which like others have noted are not in the instructions.

scottmcintyre - Antwort

i cannot find the correct specs for the sata speed of the optical drive on imac 2010 21.5 EMC 2389.

Some say it's Sata II (3Gb/s), other say it's Sata I (1.5Gb/s).

i know that the hard drive is Sata II so Depending on the info i would consider swapping the SSD for the HDD slot and puting the SSD in the optical drive slot.

thanks

Tel Test - Antwort

I had this done by an apple service agent but sometimes my iMac does not see the SSD as the boot drive can you advise.

Robert Bruce - Antwort

Thanks a lot! very descriptive and useful!! work for me on iMac mid 2010, 21'5.

Cristian Pizarro - Antwort

This fix isn’t that hard at all. Loving the process of working on this and now my mac runs pretty smooth. Worth the effort!

Supa tamraksa - Antwort

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