Einleitung

Heizt sich das Innere deines MacBook Pro mit Retina Display zu sehr auf? Das könnte auf ein Problem mit dem Kühlkörper hinweisen. Benutze diese Anleitung, um den Kühlkörper aus deinem MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Ende 2013 zu entfernen.

Vergiss nicht die alte Wärmeleitpaste zu entfernen und neue aufzutragen, wenn du den Kühlkörper entfernst. Folge dieser Anleitung um zu erfahren, wie das funktioniert.

Entferne die folgenden P5-Pentalobe-Schrauben, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:
  • Entferne die folgenden P5-Pentalobe-Schrauben, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:

    • Acht 3,0 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero - Antwort

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr -

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart -

Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

Mike -

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell - Antwort

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough -

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori -

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma - Antwort

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori - Antwort

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio - Antwort

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd - Antwort

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia - Antwort

I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

Alvaro Suarez - Antwort

Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

Jose David Valle -

Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

Bert0ld0 -

Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

brian2burnett - Antwort

Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

Walt Goede - Antwort

Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

/JD

Jakob Dahlin - Antwort

Not sure if this has been listed.

PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

erin - Antwort

Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil von der Kante aus, die der Kupplungsabdeckung am nächsten liegt, vom MacBook Pro ab.
  • Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil von der Kante aus, die der Kupplungsabdeckung am nächsten liegt, vom MacBook Pro ab.

  • Lege das Gehäuseunterteil beiseite.

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835 - Antwort

I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

Tim Peat -

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

crus - Antwort

Hey,

Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

Regards

Jose David Valle -

This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

Andrew Fox -

I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

Thanks for help.

c4rlosv8 - Antwort

There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

Tim Peat -

If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

auntialias - Antwort

  • Ziehe den Warnaufkleber über dem Akkuanschluss ab.

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori - Antwort

Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

g000phy - Antwort

Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

max damage -

Why is this step necessary?

67b5ebab - Antwort

67b5ebab Good question !

Why is this necessary ?

bigb19791979 - Antwort

This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

Hope that helps!!

~the more you know~

Colin Devenney - Antwort

I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

Achilles - Antwort

  • Heble den Akkuanschluss mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.

  • Biege die Akkukabel nach hinten und aus dem Weg, so dass der Akkuanschluss nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Kontakt kommt.

I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

Joel Replogle - Antwort

So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

Bert0ld0 -

Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

Jer - Antwort

I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

Thomas Horan - Antwort

Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

James Suojanen - Antwort

Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

Antonino Auteri - Antwort

  • Führe das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter die Gummi-Kühlkörperabdeckung des rechten Lüfters.

  • Schiebe den Spudger längs unter der Abdeckung her und löse den Kleber.

  • Hebe die Abdeckung an und drehe diese vom Kühlkörper weg.

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  • Verfahre auf die gleiche Weise wie oben beschrieben mit der Kühlkörperabdeckung auf dem linken Lüfter.

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  • Entferne die folgenden sechs Schrauben, die den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 5,5 mm T5 Torx Linsenkopfschraube

    • Vier 3,5 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    • Eine 3,8 mm silberne T5 Torx Schraube

Models with discrete graphics (i.e. the nVidia GPU) have an extra heat sink plate, so you need to release two heat sink plates (for a total of eight (8) T5 torx screws — the orange ones in the picture) to release the entire heat sink array.

Adrian - Antwort

  • Fasse den Kühlkörper von einer Seite, hebe ihn vom MacBook Pro hoch und entferne ihn.

  • Die Wärmeleitpaste kann das Entfernen des Kühlkörpers erschweren. Ziehe den Kühlkörper vorsichtig, aber kräftig ab, um eine Beschädigung der Bauteile auf dem Logic Board zu vermeiden.

  • Wenn du den neuen Kühlkörper einbaust, vergiss nicht, die Wärmeleitpaste unter dem Kühlkörper auszutauschen. Sieh dir dazu für weitere Anweisungen unsere Anleitung zum Anbringen von Wärmeleitpaste an.

Is this rMBP the low end model with no discrete GPU? If not, it's odd that the heat sync has no pad for the 750M (look at the 2012 rMBP's heat sync that definitely had a a separate pad for the 650M). If so, how about a guide for those of us who bought one of the higher-end models?

mpias - Antwort

mpias - if you look, you can see two separate areas with thermal paste, so this model likely does have the 750m. Click "View Original" on the final photo.

It looks like the factory did a pretty bad job of applying thermal paste to this laptop as well (same with my 2011 MBP 17, so I'll be re-applying some Arctic Silver 5. However, this procedure is MUCH easier than it was with my 2011, since I don't have to remove every single connector and the entire logic board! Now I just need to get some pentalobe tools.

Casey Friday - Antwort

Is anyone aware of where I can get replacement pads for the additional Mobo contact points? (There are 4 of them, round and about 1/4” in diameter) I realized one is missing in my a1398 and I think it’s causing issues (I’m not sure why it would be missing in the first place as this is the first time it is apart).

Peter Milanese - Antwort

Abschluss

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Performed today on 3 yrs old Retina 15" with integrated Iris Pro 5200. Temperatures dropped considerably, both during idle and load periods, but BE AWARE, if you pass control to the fans via i.e.: smsFanControl, during testing laptop reaches abnoxious temperatures (98C) - what it seems is that when smcFanControl is taking over, also throttling is turned off, therefore, when temperature rised you need to rise fan rpm (during Geekbench 3 I set it at the end to the 3800rpm from 2500rpm it was and this dropped immediately from 98C to 70C). When SmcFanControl is set to Default, MAC UEFI controls fans and - what is funny - when load exceeded reasonable thresholds, (one core reached 92C) it throttled (probably) because without much rpm raise - this dropped temps to 75C (Default setting did at critical point two things: a) from 2160 rpm to 2890rpm and b) throttle ... what ended in immediate drop to 75C). Keep that in mind.

In this aspect I consider this as a smarter management.

Michal Wiktorow - Antwort

One of the screw thread used to tighten the spring-clamp holding the cpu in place has detached from the motherboard. Is it possible to repair this, and if not, is it fine to hold the cpu with only one spring clamp ? Thanks a lot !

Mathieu Polge - Antwort

Hopefully you are still around the forums these days.

You usually can fix something like that if it was soldered to the board, with simple solder and something to hold it in place. However if it was riveted to the board you may have another problem, of which I do not know how to solve. You happen to have a picture?

Quinn Dunham -

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