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  1. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

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    • Remove the soft, protective, outer covering.

    • Use a heat gun (or a hair-dryer) to heat the main unit of the Plantronics Voyager Legend. This will loosen the adhesive that bonds the covering to the housing.

    • Use the pointed end of a small, metal spudger to begin separating the covering from the housing.

    • Use the rounded, dull end of the spudger to gently detach the rest of the covering.

    • It may be necessary to reheat the unit to keep the adhesive soft enough to remove the covering without damaging it.

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    • Reveal the plastic housing.

    • Fold the soft, protective covering inside-out.

    • Pull the housing completely out of the covering, revealing the main wire that connects the entire unit.

    • This leeway will be required for the removal of the circuitry, which will be detailed later.

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    • Remove the protective plate on the bottom of the housing.

    • The plate is held in place by a series of snaps and magnets.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to begin dislodging the snaps, starting at the opposite end of the charging port.

    • Work evenly around the circumference of the housing, until all snaps are free.

    • Lift the plate off of the housing.

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    • Remove the power and volume buttons.

    • Use precision tweezers to remove the volume button by lifting it out of place.

    • Use precision tweezers to remove the power button, noting its orientation, by lifting it out of place.

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    • Begin removal of the battery circuitry.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to begin lifting against the metal tab of the top edge of the circuit board unit.

    • When lifted enough, use the pointed end of the spudger to lift the remaining distance. This is accomplished by inserting the pointed end of the spudger into the hole in the circuit board unit located at the opposite end of the charging port.

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    • Remove the circuit board, revealing the battery unit.

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    • Free the battery from its circuit board positioning.

    • Locate the small piece of tape on the underside of the battery. Use a pair of precision tweezers to remove this tape.

    • Lift the battery out of position.

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    • Access the battery leads.

    • Use precision tweezers to remove the transparent, amber tape that encloses the battery. This will reveal a smaller piece of transparent, amber tape that encloses the leads to the battery.

    • Use precision tweezers to remove the smaller piece of tape, revealing the leads.

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    • Remove the old battery and replace it with a new one.

    • Disconnect the leads using a pair of wire cutters. Scissors will work if there are no wire cutters available.

    • Solder the black, ground lead into place on the new battery.

    • Solder the red, positive lead into place on the new battery.

    • Refer to the iFixit soldering guide for assistance with soldering.

Ziellinie

32 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Lewis Certain

Mitglied seit: 09/10/15

2.287 Reputation

3 Anleitungen geschrieben

Team

USF Sarasota-Manatee, Team 1-2, Stewart Fall 2015 Mitglied von USF Sarasota-Manatee, Team 1-2, Stewart Fall 2015

USFSM-STEWART-F15S1G2

5 Mitglieder

17 Anleitungen geschrieben

13 Kommentare

nice guide...

where could you order a replacement battery? ebay and others do not sell the exact replacements... or do they?

badrutsima - Antwort

Excellent Guide!

Battery appears to be available (Via Google Search): AHB480832PK 3.7v 100ma

Will Walker - Antwort

How to put it back again ? and is it gonna be how it used to be ? with the rubber being torn apart ??

aristotlehasan - Antwort

1. I dont really think you need to remove the rubber. It gets stretched and torn and doesn't go back the same even with adhesive. I think the black plastic "cap" can be removed without fully removing the rubber. Other than that the repair worked ok, but it doesn't look/feel the same so I ended up buying another one anyway and now this is my spare. It's a fairly delicate/complex operation and probably not worth the effort.

Mark - Antwort

I agree. I left the rubber intact on mine for that very reason, only slightly unsticking the edge with the guitar pick, which enabled me to pop the hard plastic panel/cap off reasonably easily. I did manage to break the clip at the top edge (above the power button) but a small drop of superglue was all that was needed to fix it. It definitely feels the same as before, so I’m glad I spent the AUD$30 for the battery instead of another AUD$130 for a new headset. It’s a shame to waste otherwise perfectly working hardware.

Also, for anyone who is currently running on a firmware version older than v110, if your PLT Hub software alerts you to upgrade to v110 (I was running v109), it is possible you will have issues with unstable call audio (media audio plays fine). If you experience this problem, you can check my solution (involving a downgrade and a reset) here: https://community.polycom.com/t5/Bluetoo...

Otherwise, just stay on v109!

tony -

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