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If your Xbox One controller has LT/RT issues, the issue likely lies with the magnets. Use this guide to take the controller apart and secure the magnets so they do not move again. This guide can also be used to change the magnet position if you are having issues with the triggers.

Guide warnings

  • Be prepared to write off your controller if this fix does not work as it may make the problem worse. This problem is not found on Model 1708 controllers.
  • WARNING: The plastic frame can be melted if the flame is held too long or the flame is too hot. Only hold the flame until the heatshrink seals.
  • This procedure will VOID ALL WARRANTIES. Make sure the warranty is expired or you cannot use it. My controller is 17 months old.

Guide notes

  • This fix does not apply to Model 1708 controllers. These are not as unreliable as Model 1537/1697 controllers.
  • If you misalign the magnets, you may need to replace the controller frame. Use caution when the glue is applied.
  • When the heatshrink tubing is replaced, be careful not to burn or melt the controller frame.
    • Remove the batteries from your controller (if installed). If you do not have a TR8 screwdriver, the bit can be found in the 64-bit driver kit.

    • Remove the screw under the battery cover label. To do this, puncture a hole in the battery compartment where the photo is marked. It is located roughly in the center of the battery bay where it is marked on my controller.

    • Remove the side trim from the controller, along with the 4 TR8 screws. Set the trim and screws aside somewhere safe.

    • With the screws removed from the back, flip the controller to the front. Remove the front plastic cover.

    • With the front plastic cover removed, remove the back shell of the controller. A plastic pry tool can be used if it is easier.

    • Remove the shell once the battery tabs are released.

    • Remove the power button cover from the controller. If the LB/RB assembly is separate, remove this next. A plastic pry tool can be used if needed.

    • Remove the wireless sync button. Place this on a bright surface to avoid misplacement.

    • If both triggers need repair, do one at a time.

    • Before cutting the heatshrink make two alignment marks that do not cross. These will be used for alignment later.

    • After making alignment marks, cut the heatshrink tubing off of the trigger assembly with a utility knife.

    • Using the old heatshrink as a reference, cut two new pieces. Set these aside for later use.

    • Correct magnet alignment is critical. Misalignment of the magnet may result in LT/RT activation without human input.

    • After cutting the heatshrink tubing, do a practice alignment to have an idea for final magnet placement.

    • These controllers use double sided tape from the factory. Note the dimple side and clean the magnet and frame. If the residue is difficult to clean, use Goo Gone.

    • Once the magnet(s) are reasonably clean, do one final alignment. Once you are confident it is right, apply tape to aid in final installation.

    • You only have 1 chance. If you do this wrong, you may need a controller frame. If you are repairing both, do one at a time.

    • If this is being done to fix a bad magnet alignment, verify functionality first. This is not required to replace worn out double sided tape.

    • Verify the alignment before applying glue. Once the alignment is verified, apply glue to the controller frame.

    • Once the magnets are glued, let it dry for ~24 hours.

    • A torch lighter is recommended. Soft flame lighters may melt the plastic. Adjust the flame to the lowest reliable ignition point possible.

    • Once the glue is cured, seal the magnets with new heatshrink tubing. When the heatshrink is sealed, kill the flame.


To reassemble your controller after testing, reverse disassembly by following this guide in reverse.

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