If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE 2021 (March 22, 2025 expiration)
PC Pro Certification (Lifetime)
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Marchman Technical Center
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Photography
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
Take the hotshoe off, and make sure they move freely. Once they're moving freely, reverse disassembly and make sure it works. This will ensure it is properly "reset".
Their commercial products are a fixers dream come true, yet the consumer stuff is hit and miss with more stinkers then winners :(.
HP is getting better on the consumer side, but yeah I love how easy my 840 G5 is to repair. That's the freaking benchmark - remove the bottom cover (screws are captive) and you have access to EVERYTHING - motherboard, WLAN/WWAN cards, SSD, RAM and battery*. HP needs to make everything that good.
*Battery uses T8 screws, but that’s the only deviation. If that’s it, still a home run design.
Mine has one, but it’s also a poor candidate to show how not having anything but the drive cable.
You need to preserve the security sector bit by bit. Get the direction wrong? Bye-bye Xbox support (will work over USB, but that defeats the purpose of this).
Late reply due to the fact this guide gets few views.
It helps but it's not 100% necessary for the entire cleanup. Soaking the printheads screens for part of it is usually sufficient. Better to do it at the end to catch any ink that floated in the beginning then throughout unless you want to do it through the main cleanup and the final purge. I generally do not bother when it pulls tons and tons of ink out; you'll be wasting water - worry about the bottom part first where it will all be “forced out” from.
The water also creeps up due to being soaked at the bottom.
Late response, but some laptops and Windows based tablets (notably HP) always show 0% wear in Batteryinfoview. You need to go into the UEFI diagnostics or use use HP Support Assistant and grab it from the advanced data on HP. If it’s Dell, UEFI SupportAssist (newer systems) or ePSA (legacy).
Nothing to worry about, but another quirk like the EOL capacity reporting response on some Dell batteries. Added a note in the quirks section about this.
The trick I’ve used on this HP chaissis is I will go over the back tabs with more attention then the rest, and then go over it again just to be sure.
The alternative is to buy anything else that isn’t awful to service, but sadly if you own it you can’t do much about it.
No - I do not.
The screw seems to be #000 for most. #00 worked for me (15-p263nr) but I marked it as or #000 because it seems to vary.
Try a Phillps #000 screwdriver. It worked for me with a #00, but #000 is a better fit when I revisited this.
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