If you are part of a student group and claim one of my Device pages or Wikis, please respect these guidelines:
- Only change content that needs to be revised. Leave working content alone.
- If the original content is mostly usable, it's best to do a revision with the original content and formatting preserved as much as possible.
- If any information is removed without replacement, verify it is inaccurate if known by others. If there is not enough time to verify it, please understand I did so personally before including it.
- If you find any content you can't verify but think it needs work (Ex: Information on how to use a certain game controller on PC), revise it in its current form.
- If such content is included, only replace the parts that need replacement - do not remove it or change everything. I've personally tested it and know it to work.
- Do not change the following:
- Non-patrol reputation (This is set high enough to prevent problems for me and established users who know what they are doing).
- TOC inclusion (Note: If removed for editing, add it back. This is fine if you need to remove it for the project term).
If these guidelines are respected, I do not have a problem with student edits. I know how I handle it is more unconventional then other pages since I will centralize common problems (and their workarounds if I know what to do) to make the information easier to find.
Regarding major changes beyond normal editing: If you are considering a major change, it's best to err on the side of caution and use the existing formatting and replace that section. In most cases, the content is (generally) laid out in such a way that the only requirements are a rewrite on the section that is being changed. In most cases, there is no need to completely rework how I wrote the original content.
CompTIA A+ CE
PC Pro Certification
Marchman Technical School Certificate of Completion
- Sunlake High School (Dual enrollment)
- Marchman Technical Center
- Linux (I often have a second dedicated Linux computer)
- Intermediate board level repair and data recovery
- Photography
- Gaming (Limited to older games without excess DLC and microtransactions; PC only since Xbox One and PS4 launch)
I patched this up as well as I can. I got away with a #00, but I added or #000 to avoid more documented problems similar to this. It may be possible yours was #000 and I used a #00 system for the guide.
Check Step 7.
That’s why I rated it difficult and was quite blunt about how difficult the job is. I’m assuming you’re talking about the optical drive screw(s). If you can safely drill it out with a very small bit (while being very careful!), you’ll recover but that area will always feel looser then the other parts of the chassis.
It’s not impossible, but yeah… This is not someone’s first DIY job.
I can put it on Drive as well so we have a backup. I can give you my iFixit email
Did you clean the contacts on the printer itself? Every one of these I’ve done this on has ink back there and it will cause this error. Use a eyeglass wipe if you need to; it will work.
If that doesn’t work, there were hidden printhead problems at play. Hope you have extra ink… The prep process wastes a LOT of ink.
I set it to difficult to communicate to end users this repair is a pain to do.
That said, I'll consider it. I made this a few years ago when I was a bit looser about setting the difficulty.
I have the backup for 7 x64, but not x86. We’re not entirely screwed :-).
Probably not ideal I didn’t preserve the old version for x86 but it’s probably not an issue - most games pretty much demand 7 x64 anyway.
That’s not something I can correct right away.
While Win7 is EOL on 1/14/2020, so I may not do anything but I’ll see what I can do. I REALLY HOPE I have a backup for Win7 x64 :(.
Unbelievable… I already have some hesitation because I want to wait it out until Ryzen 3000 notebooks become available but this is bullshit.
The plastic pry tool will also work for the bottom RAM/mSATA part. I can usually get it open without the assistance of pry tools.
I’m thinking you’re downloading the x86 driver and trying it on x64 Windows or the other way around. Click the driver name and check the OS compatibility.
If you still can’t get it to work, make a Answers post.
That’s the first time I’ve heard that. If it comes up again I’ll look into making a note.
You may have used the wrong driver. I’m not sure if that’s the case but the drivers are different between the two as I found out a while back.
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