Einleitung

Hinweis: Dies ist eine komplette Anleitung zum Austausch eines einfachen Front Panels. Falls du eine komplette Front Panel Baugruppe als Ersatzteil hast, dann halte an, bevor du den Home-Button von deinem alten Front Panel entfernst und folge ab hier den Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, um die neue Front Panel Einheit einzubauen.

  1. Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können. Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er sich überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Antwort

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Antwort

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Antwort

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Antwort

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Antwort

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwort

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Antwort

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Antwort

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Antwort

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Antwort

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Antwort

  2. Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden auf höchster Stufe.
    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden auf höchster Stufe.

    • Während des Reperationsprozesses kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal zusätzlich einmal für 30 Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er dir geschwollen vorkommt.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Antwort

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Antwort

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Antwort

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Antwort

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Antwort

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Antwort

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Antwort

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Antwort

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Antwort

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Antwort

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Antwort

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Antwort

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Antwort

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Antwort

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Antwort

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Antwort

  3. Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Antwort

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Antwort

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Antwort

  4. Wenn das Displayglas gesprungen ist, versuche die Splitter unter Verschluss zu halten und Verletzungen während der Reparatur zu vermeiden, indem du  das Glas mit Tape zusammenhälst. Lege sich überlappende Streifen aus durchsichtigem Packtape über das iPad Display,  bis die ganze Oberfläche bedeckt ist. Dadurch werden Glasscherben unter Verschluss gehalten und bauliche Intaktheit beim Hebeln und Display anheben sichergestellt.
    • Wenn das Displayglas gesprungen ist, versuche die Splitter unter Verschluss zu halten und Verletzungen während der Reparatur zu vermeiden, indem du das Glas mit Tape zusammenhälst.

    • Lege sich überlappende Streifen aus durchsichtigem Packtape über das iPad Display, bis die ganze Oberfläche bedeckt ist.

    • Dadurch werden Glasscherben unter Verschluss gehalten und bauliche Intaktheit beim Hebeln und Display anheben sichergestellt.

    • Gib dein Bestes, um den Rest der Anleitung wie beschrieben zu folgen. Da das Glas jedoch, sobald es einmal gebrochen ist, höchstwahrscheinlich weiter zersplittern wird, brauchst du eventuell ein metallenes Hebelwerkzeug, um das Glas herauszudrücken.

    • Trage eine Sicherheitsbrille, um deine Augen zu schützen und gebe darauf acht, das LCD nicht zu beschädigen.

    Yes...wear safety glasses for sure when doing this!

    Josh West - Antwort

    If you have ANY cracks FOR SURE do the tape. I would also make sure to wear safety glasses as it can fly all over even with the tape. And do it somewhere that you don't mind tiny glass shards going everywhere. I had one 3 inch crack in the glass in the lower right corner and it started spidering. The plastic pics don't work once well once they hit a broken point in the glass so you better have a lot of heat to loosen the adhesive, or you end up using an exacto knife to get around the cracked spots.

    jesseokerlund - Antwort

    On a few occasions I had an unexpected pop as the glass shattered and little shards struck me in the face. I had taped the surface but pieces at the edge still managed to break free. My advice: definitely wear the safety glasses, and definitely tape the entire glass surface.

    robertmhussey - Antwort

    Echo jesseokerlund's comments that you will have glass flying. I made the mistake of doing the repair at my kitchen table and had a lot of cleanup to do. The job would be much easier if there was no broken glass, and the hardest part is where the glass is broken right next to the bezel. I used the metal spudger to work those pieces free, but it takes some time.

    robertmhussey - Antwort

    + 1 on the safety glass, I almost got hurt while doing this.

    alexisfogel - Antwort

    Can a hot air blower or hair dryer be used instead? Same heating duration of 90 seconds?

    Eiji Uehara - Antwort

    • Nochmal, da du im Laufe der Demontage eventuell mit zersplittertem Glas arbeitest, empfehlen wir dringend eine Sicherheitsbrille, um deine Augen vor umherfliegenden Glassplittern zu schützen.

    • Lege den iOpener flach auf die rechte Kante des iPads und glätte es, sodass ein guter Kontakt zwischen der iPad- und der iOpener-Oberfläche besteht.

    • Lasse den Beutel etwa 90 Sekungen auf dem iPad liegen, bevor du versuchst, das Front Panel zu öffnen.

    It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

    McGiord - Antwort

    This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

    Lou Bomski -

    Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.

    Vatevaaa -

    I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

    I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

    John - Antwort

    This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

    Tom Scott -

    Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.

    olafgoy -

    I had some issues after replacing this cable.

    Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

    I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

    I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

    Now I'm back to full functionality!

    clatekeen - Antwort

    me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?

    Zadd -

    Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

    Max - Antwort

    I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!

    dbrown900 - Antwort

    Have not attempted this repair on my wife's iPad 2, but is there a reason that you put the iOpener on top of the device rather than putting the device on top of the iOpener? After all, heat rises.

    Stephen Weber - Antwort

  5. Der Klebering weist in der oberen rechten Ecke des iPads, etwa 5 cm von der oberen Kante entfernt, eine kleine Lücke auf. Diese Schwäche wirst du ausnutzen. Richte das Werkzeug auf die Stummtaste aus. Führe die Spitze eines Plastic Opening Tools in die Lücke zwischen dem  Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung. Führe nur die äußerste Spitze des Öffnungswerkzeuges ein, gerade weit genug um den Spalt zu weiten. Es kann einige Kraft fordern, die verkeilte Spitze des Öffnungswerkzeuges zwischen Glas und Kunststoff zu bekommen. Bleibe geduldig und sei vorsichtig, wenn das Plastic Opening Tool vor und zurück bewegst, falls das notwendig ist.
    • Der Klebering weist in der oberen rechten Ecke des iPads, etwa 5 cm von der oberen Kante entfernt, eine kleine Lücke auf. Diese Schwäche wirst du ausnutzen.

    • Richte das Werkzeug auf die Stummtaste aus. Führe die Spitze eines Plastic Opening Tools in die Lücke zwischen dem Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung. Führe nur die äußerste Spitze des Öffnungswerkzeuges ein, gerade weit genug um den Spalt zu weiten.

    • Es kann einige Kraft fordern, die verkeilte Spitze des Öffnungswerkzeuges zwischen Glas und Kunststoff zu bekommen. Bleibe geduldig und sei vorsichtig, wenn das Plastic Opening Tool vor und zurück bewegst, falls das notwendig ist.

    there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

    ChiangFeng Li - Antwort

    Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

    Nick Dresang - Antwort

    Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

    Logan Kennedy - Antwort

    There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

    Richard - Antwort

    The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

    It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

    Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

    - instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

    - watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

    - if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

    - opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

    - tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

    Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

    michalmotykiewicz - Antwort

    Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.

    Golden Neckbeard -

    Wish I would have seen your comment before I went through it. Switched to a razor blade and that helped for sure. Thought about a hair dryer as well but stuck with the micro heating tool. Probably should have done the dryer. :-/

    Josh West -

    Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

    Paul Boyer - Antwort

    I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

    Jack - Antwort

    I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.

    John -

    It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape

    Odus182 -

    Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

    Nathan - Antwort

    Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

    Breadman - Antwort

    On the iPad 2 I repaired, the opening started at 1 inch and ended at 3mm.

    Justin H - Antwort

    Like others i found the plastic tool pretty useless. Exacto, razor blade, or small metal pick/pry tool works much better to get that first guitar pick inserted. Be careful not to damage the bezel too much. Unless to plan to replace it.

    B Kirkham - Antwort

    If you have an iPAD that has been repaired before note that the adhesive strip might not have an opening by the volume control as shown. I replaced the glass and the new glass had a 2" gap to the left of the Home button only.

    winwoodc - Antwort

    The glass is much thinner than you'd think and I broke mine trying to lever it off before the adhesive has softened enough. Be VERY gentle!

    winwoodc - Antwort

    My plastic opening tool broke in no time flat. Perhaps I was pressing down too hard and not wiggling it enough. But for me I found that the metal spudger was the best tool for the job. I was able to wiggle it while slowly prying up the glass and once it was under the surface of the glass I was able to work it along the edge quite easily. I saw that some people used a razor blade but I would be afraid the blade would break. The metal spudger was just thin enough to do the job well.

    robertmhussey - Antwort

    !!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!

    sean blanche - Antwort

  6. Achte darauf, dass das Werkzeug an der richtigen Stelle einführst - zwischen der Kunststoffeinfassung des Displays und dem Front Panel Glas.
    • Achte darauf, dass das Werkzeug an der richtigen Stelle einführst - zwischen der Kunststoffeinfassung des Displays und dem Front Panel Glas.

    This visual is helpful. It would be great also to have a diagram of the top of the ipad, marked with "top," "bottom," "left," "right," and then an arrow pointing to each of the problematic areas, such as wifi cable, digitizer cable, etc. It would be easier to see the whole schematic while working rather than scrolling through the instructions and trying to visualize each piece separately. Good to see where to be careful...

    Christa - Antwort

    !!!!!!razor-blade & hair-dryer !!!!!!!

    sean blanche - Antwort

  7. Lasse die Spitze des Plastic Opening Tools eingekeilt zwischen dem Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung und führe ein Opening Pick in die Lücke,  direkt neben dem Plastic Opening Tool. Lasse die Spitze des Plastic Opening Tools eingekeilt zwischen dem Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung und führe ein Opening Pick in die Lücke,  direkt neben dem Plastic Opening Tool.
    • Lasse die Spitze des Plastic Opening Tools eingekeilt zwischen dem Frontglas und der Kunststoffeinfassung und führe ein Opening Pick in die Lücke, direkt neben dem Plastic Opening Tool.

    My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.

    I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.

    I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.

    Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.

    Golden Neckbeard - Antwort

    I found that using a scraper blade was the easiest way to get under the glass, both for broken and unbroken areas.

    Jeff Snider - Antwort

  8. Entferne das Plastic Opening Tool vom iPad und schiebe das Opening Pick weiter unter das Frontglas bis zu einer Tiefe von etwa 1-1,5 cm. Entferne das Plastic Opening Tool vom iPad und schiebe das Opening Pick weiter unter das Frontglas bis zu einer Tiefe von etwa 1-1,5 cm.
    • Entferne das Plastic Opening Tool vom iPad und schiebe das Opening Pick weiter unter das Frontglas bis zu einer Tiefe von etwa 1-1,5 cm.

    It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

    I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

    Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

    Nick V - Antwort

    Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

    rondiedonelson - Antwort

    I found that the adhesive could be separated when the pick or spudger was in at a depth of between 1/4" (6.4 mm) and 3/8" (9.5 mm). You can always go back and work it in deeper if you are having trouble separating.

    robertmhussey - Antwort

    Yoh but this is not so simple of your screen is shattered to the edges. Basically I had to lift, shatter more, and then pick off the splintered glass with tweezers bit by bit. Patience is a virtue here. I gave up on saving the adhesive and used it to help remove the splinters. I basically removed the edges of the iPad like that and then lift glass off. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. I would be blind now if I didn’t. wifi antenna -Go slow make sure it’s hot +check what you are doing in the crack. Remove all splinters fromiPad when it’s open. Clean LCD with a microfibre cloth and inside of your new digitizer. When I first reassembled, the home button didn’t work. I reopened and made sure the two gold connectors align with the two spikes on the body. I placed the home button board face down onto the connector spikes with adhesive on the other side, then lowered the digitiser onto it so the board would stick to the digitiser. Notes: forget plastic spudger they’re only place holders, I used a blade knife and metal Spudgers

    Sarah Pegden - Antwort

  9. Während du daran arbeitest, den Kleber auf der rechten Seite des iPad zu lösen, erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn auf der unteren Kante des iPads.
    • Während du daran arbeitest, den Kleber auf der rechten Seite des iPad zu lösen, erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn auf der unteren Kante des iPads.

    I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.

    Roberto Enrieu - Antwort

  10. Während die Unterkante vom iOpener erhitzt wird, fange an, den Kleber an der rechten Kante des iPads zu lösen. Fahre mit dem Opening Pick die Kante des iPads entlang nach unten und löse dabei den Kleber. Der verwendete Kleber ist sehr stark und ein erheblicher Kraftaufwand kann vonnöten sein. Arbeite mit Bedacht.
    • Während die Unterkante vom iOpener erhitzt wird, fange an, den Kleber an der rechten Kante des iPads zu lösen.

    • Fahre mit dem Opening Pick die Kante des iPads entlang nach unten und löse dabei den Kleber.

    • Der verwendete Kleber ist sehr stark und ein erheblicher Kraftaufwand kann vonnöten sein. Arbeite mit Bedacht.

    • Wenn die Spitze des Opening Picks unter dem Frontglas hervorschaut, ziehe das Pick wieder ein wenig heraus. Zwar wird nichts beschädigt, wenn du das Opening Pick so tief positionierst, aber es kann Kleberrückstände auf dem LCD hinterlassen.

  11. Um den Kleber zu lösen, kann es notwendig sein, den erhitzten iOpener nochmal auf auf der rechten Kante des iPads aufzulegen.  Das hängt davon ab, wieweit dein iPad schon wieder heruntergekühlt ist, während du daran gearbeitet hast. Wenn das Opening Pick im Kleber hängen bleibt, "walze" das Pick entlang der Seitenkante des iPads und löse dabei weiter den Kleber. Wenn das Opening Pick im Kleber hängen bleibt, "walze" das Pick entlang der Seitenkante des iPads und löse dabei weiter den Kleber.
    • Um den Kleber zu lösen, kann es notwendig sein, den erhitzten iOpener nochmal auf auf der rechten Kante des iPads aufzulegen. Das hängt davon ab, wieweit dein iPad schon wieder heruntergekühlt ist, während du daran gearbeitet hast.

    • Wenn das Opening Pick im Kleber hängen bleibt, "walze" das Pick entlang der Seitenkante des iPads und löse dabei weiter den Kleber.

    The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.

    silvain1038 - Antwort

    I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

    nickmalmquist - Antwort

    Why not work in reverse to the top edge, and back around to the area where that cable may be unsecured? Haven't don't an iPad (yet, staring one in the face right now) but that would be my alternative so the screen is mostly loose and you could possibly see the cable looking from the now open left side of the glass?

    Matt Needham - Antwort

  12. Bevor du das erste Opening Pick aus der unteren Ecke des iPads entfernst, platziere ein zweites Pick unter der rechten Ecke des Frontglases, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber wieder anzieht. Erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn an der Oberkante des iPads.
    • Bevor du das erste Opening Pick aus der unteren Ecke des iPads entfernst, platziere ein zweites Pick unter der rechten Ecke des Frontglases, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber wieder anzieht.

    • Erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn an der Oberkante des iPads.

  13. Bei den nächsten Schritten ist große Achtsamkeit vonnöten.
    • Bei den nächsten Schritten ist große Achtsamkeit vonnöten.

    • Die Wi-Fi Antenne ist mit Schrauben und einem Kabel an der unteren rechten Ecke des hinteren iPad-Gehäuses angebracht. Wegen der Ausrichtung der Wi-Fi Antenne, ist es dringend erforderlich mit Vorsicht vorzugehen, da andernfalls der Wi-Fi Antenne irreparabler Schaden zugefügt werden kann.

    • Du musst den Kleber, der Antenne und Front Panel verbindet, entfernen, ohne die empfindlichen Teile, mit denen die Antenne unten am iPad befestigt ist, zu beschädigen. Sei vorsichtig beim weiteren Vorgehen.

    I cut through my wifi cable partially, but it still works (surprisingly). I'd recommend staying well clear of this with the pick. When you go to lift the screen (future step, NOT NOW), use a really good light, start to lift the glass slightly at the corner and you will be able to see the cable. Then you can heat it more and watch the cable as you pull through the adhesive there making sure your not catching the cable.

    B Kirkham - Antwort

    If you heat the sides and top, releasing the adhesive, you can peel the broken glass front panel up from the body and with a little force the bottom comes loose. This avoids working around and damaging the Wi-Fi Antennae.

    Michael Vovaris - Antwort

    I know it is hard to tell from the photo, but the Wi-Fi antenna is kind of like a flap that opens on the right and is attached on the left. So if you use a pick to slide from right to left, the pick might slide under the flap and then sever how it is attached. When I had my pick just to the right of where the Wi-Fi antenna is, I was able to twist my pick a little (like you are tightening a screw) and pry the screen up where the antenna is located. Then I just moved my pick to the left of the antenna and could continue loosening the screen.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwort

    Irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna is nearly unavoidable, but this is not the end of the world since you can pick up a perfectly fine replacement on-line for a few bucks. Many digitizer screen replacement kits include a new WiFi antenna and new bezel since removing the screen without damage to these is also nearly impossible. If your iPad is old enough to need a new battery, and you plan on keeping it thru at least another battery's expected life span, then I would plan on replacing the digitizer screen, bezel, and WiFi antenna as part of the battery replacement. The battery is going to be the most expensive of the set, say around $15 (US), and adding the other three will only add about another $15 (check the prices in ebay, amazon, etc.). Removing the screen often results in damage to the on/off and volume control cable since it too runs along the upper right hand edge of the base right under the screen. If you cut thru this then add another $1 to replace it too.

    Jerry - Antwort

    Based on my experience just (nearly) completing this job on an iPad 2, CDMA, is that the trickiest step is reconnecting the three CDMA antenna cables on the underside of the CDMA chip that is part of the logic board assembly. These are nearly microscopic button connectors (maybe 0.5 mm in diameter). I needed 8X magnification glasses, very bright light, tweezers, and incredible luck to get these reattached. They pop off no problem, but getting them positioned to apply pop-on force takes a LOT of patients! Maybe someone knows a trick to doing this? There’s a similar connector on the WiFi cable but the chip it attaches to can be removed from the logic board so you’re able to manage positioning them interdependently. The CDMA chip is attached (soldered?) to the logic board and the three button connectors are on the underside, and pretty close to one another, so getting all THREE attached and then the logic board in place is a miracle.

    Jerry - Antwort

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  15. Fahre mit dem Opening Pick entlang der rechten unten Ecke des iPads und löse dabei den Kleber dort. Fahre mit dem Pick nicht weiter als bis zu der rechten unteren Ecke. Andernfalls kannst du die Wi-Fi Antenne beschädigen.
    • Fahre mit dem Opening Pick entlang der rechten unten Ecke des iPads und löse dabei den Kleber dort.

    • Fahre mit dem Pick nicht weiter als bis zu der rechten unteren Ecke. Andernfalls kannst du die Wi-Fi Antenne beschädigen.

    Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

    McGiord - Antwort

    Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

    Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

    Marc Bouchard - Antwort

  16. Der Schritt verlangt, dass du das Opening Pick entlang der rechten unteren Ecke des Front Panels bewegst. Die Wi-Fi Antenne befindet sich sehr nahe an der Ecke und  wird leicht abgetrennt, wenn der Kleber unfachmännisch gelöst wird. Ziehe das Pick nicht vollständig unter dem Frontglas hervor, sondern nur ein bisschen, sodass sich 1-2 mm der Spitze noch unter dem Frontglas befinden.
    • Der Schritt verlangt, dass du das Opening Pick entlang der rechten unteren Ecke des Front Panels bewegst. Die Wi-Fi Antenne befindet sich sehr nahe an der Ecke und wird leicht abgetrennt, wenn der Kleber unfachmännisch gelöst wird.

    • Ziehe das Pick nicht vollständig unter dem Frontglas hervor, sondern nur ein bisschen, sodass sich 1-2 mm der Spitze noch unter dem Frontglas befinden.

    • Fahre mit der Spitze des Opening Picks entlang der unteren Kante des iPads und entferne so den Kleber über der Wi-Fi Antenne.

    I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

    Logan Kennedy - Antwort

    My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

    Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

    HRB - Antwort

    Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step

    Hawesg Garrett -

    I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

    chrisnewitt - Antwort

    This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

    Christian - Antwort

    It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.

    I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?

    A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.

    I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.

    Chris Jordan - Antwort

    Can anybody give me a clue as to what the exact part is in step 57, As there are slightly different cables for the ipad 2, Mine is A1395, Thanks.

    Jasper - Antwort

  17. Sobald du hinter der Wi-Fi Antenne angekommen bist (etwa 3 cm entfernt von der rechten Ecke bzw. direkt neben dem Home Button,  führe das Opening Pick wieder soweit ein, wie es geht. Fahre mit dem Pick nach rechts und löse so den Kleber, der Wi-Fi Antenne und Frontglas verbindet.
    • Sobald du hinter der Wi-Fi Antenne angekommen bist (etwa 3 cm entfernt von der rechten Ecke bzw. direkt neben dem Home Button, führe das Opening Pick wieder soweit ein, wie es geht.

    • Fahre mit dem Pick nach rechts und löse so den Kleber, der Wi-Fi Antenne und Frontglas verbindet.

    • Die Antenne ist unten am iPad mit Schrauben und einem Kabel befestigt. Mit diesem Schritt wird die Antenne vom Front Panel getrennt, wobei sichergestellt ist, dass die Antenne nicht beschädigt wird, wenn du das Panel entfernst.

    Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

    Lars Lien Ankile - Antwort

    Also once it is unattached from the front panel, if the antennas adhesive touches the glass again it can re-adhere to front panel and may rip apart after all. Keep a close eye on it or leave a pick or card in there to prevent it from re-sticking.

    Danny Hartley - Antwort

  18. Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der Unterseite des iPads zu lösen. Ziehe dazu das Opening Pick weit genug heraus, um den Home Button zu umschiffen und führe es wieder etwa 1,3 cm tief ein, sobald du den Home Button passiert hast. Falls der Kleber an der Unterseite schon zu sehr abgekühlt hat, erhitze den iOpener erneut, um den Kleber dort zu erwärmen, wo du gerade arbeitest. Erhitze den iOpener niemals länger als eine Minute am Stück und warte immer mindestens zwei Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.
    • Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der Unterseite des iPads zu lösen. Ziehe dazu das Opening Pick weit genug heraus, um den Home Button zu umschiffen und führe es wieder etwa 1,3 cm tief ein, sobald du den Home Button passiert hast.

    • Falls der Kleber an der Unterseite schon zu sehr abgekühlt hat, erhitze den iOpener erneut, um den Kleber dort zu erwärmen, wo du gerade arbeitest.

    • Erhitze den iOpener niemals länger als eine Minute am Stück und warte immer mindestens zwei Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.

  19. Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der Unterkante des iPads zu lösen. Bei iPad 4 Modellen darfst du den Pick in diesem Bereich höchstens 1,3 cm tief einschieben, du könntest sonst das Flachbandkabel zum Home Button beschädigen.
    • Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der Unterkante des iPads zu lösen.

    • Bei iPad 4 Modellen darfst du den Pick in diesem Bereich höchstens 1,3 cm tief einschieben, du könntest sonst das Flachbandkabel zum Home Button beschädigen.

    • Lasse das Opening Pick eingekeilt unter dem Frontglas nahe dem Home Button.

    This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

    robjpete - Antwort

    There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

    Christian -

    I think the guides carry common steps between them. I'm reading this string of comments on multiple ipad 3/4 repair guides.

    Anticept - Antwort

    Can I suggest putting the warning in red at the top of the instruction rather than half-way through it? I work from these guides by scrolling through them as I go, and I'd already put the spudger through the ribbon cable before I read the warning!

    spl23 - Antwort

  20. Erhitze den iOpener wieder in der Mikrowelle und lege ihn auf die linke Seite des iPads, um den Kleber in diesem Bereich zu erwärmen.
    • Erhitze den iOpener wieder in der Mikrowelle und lege ihn auf die linke Seite des iPads, um den Kleber in diesem Bereich zu erwärmen.

    I believe this should say to place the iOpener on the top edge, since the instructions go there next.

    lizgoldnm - Antwort

  21. Fahre mit dem Opening Pick entlang der Oberkante des iPads und ziehe es leicht heraus, um den Bügel der Frontkamera zu umfahren Der Kleber ist in diesem Bereich sehr dick aufgetragen, weswegen beträchtlich Kraft aufgewendet werden muss. Arbeite langsam und vorsichtig und achte darauf, nicht abzurutschen und dir oder dem iPad keinen Schaden zuzufügen. Falls der Kleber schon zu sehr angefühlt ist, platziere den iOpener wieder entlang der Oberkante und arbeite weiter. Falls der iOpener schon zu sehr abgekühlt ist, erhitze ihn erneut.
    • Fahre mit dem Opening Pick entlang der Oberkante des iPads und ziehe es leicht heraus, um den Bügel der Frontkamera zu umfahren

    • Der Kleber ist in diesem Bereich sehr dick aufgetragen, weswegen beträchtlich Kraft aufgewendet werden muss. Arbeite langsam und vorsichtig und achte darauf, nicht abzurutschen und dir oder dem iPad keinen Schaden zuzufügen.

    • Falls der Kleber schon zu sehr angefühlt ist, platziere den iOpener wieder entlang der Oberkante und arbeite weiter. Falls der iOpener schon zu sehr abgekühlt ist, erhitze ihn erneut.

    • Falls das Plektrum im Kleber steckenbleibt, dann "rolle" es vorwärts wie in Schritt 9 gezeigt wurde.

    In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

    MattLise Gaillzik - Antwort

    +1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

    doog - Antwort

    Be very careful when going around the front camera, I cracked my screen by prying up too much and causing too much stress!

    Rowdydtk - Antwort

    The GSM component is glued to the screen with different adhesive (more like glue). I managed to not damage this but it was really tricky. The guitar pick is too thick and weak to release this from the screen. Id recommend you wait until you lift the glass (future step, NOT NOW). Then, with a good light you'll see the white plastic adhered to the glass. A thin metal pick or exacto is needed to patiently cut & pry your way through the adhesive. Careful of the camera as your pulling in that direction.

    B Kirkham - Antwort

  22. Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der oberen Kante des iPads zu lösen und fahre mit dem Opening Pick um die linke obere Ecke. Wenn der Kleber warm genug ist, entferne den iOpener zur Vereinfachung vom iPad.  Wenn der Kleber jedoch noch relativ fest hält, erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn auf die linke Kante, während du weiterarbeitest.
    • Fahre damit fort, den Kleber entlang der oberen Kante des iPads zu lösen und fahre mit dem Opening Pick um die linke obere Ecke.

    • Wenn der Kleber warm genug ist, entferne den iOpener zur Vereinfachung vom iPad. Wenn der Kleber jedoch noch relativ fest hält, erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn auf die linke Kante, während du weiterarbeitest.

  23. Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der linken Kante des iPads und löse dabei den Kleber. Der Klebestreifen ist hier durch den Digitizer an der ganzen linken Seite sehr dünn.  Schiebe das Pick deswegen nicht tiefer als 1,3 cm ein, um Schäden am Digitizer  zu vermeiden. Das Digitizer-Kabel befindet sich etwa 5 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Halte an, wenn du noch etwa 6 cm von der Unterkante des iPads entfernt bist. Das Digitizer-Kabel befindet sich etwa 5 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Halte an, wenn du noch etwa 6 cm von der Unterkante des iPads entfernt bist.
    • Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der linken Kante des iPads und löse dabei den Kleber. Der Klebestreifen ist hier durch den Digitizer an der ganzen linken Seite sehr dünn. Schiebe das Pick deswegen nicht tiefer als 1,3 cm ein, um Schäden am Digitizer zu vermeiden.

    • Das Digitizer-Kabel befindet sich etwa 5 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Halte an, wenn du noch etwa 6 cm von der Unterkante des iPads entfernt bist.

    The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

    robjpete - Antwort

    Because this is for an iPad 2

    Odus182 -

    @odus182 It says clear as day that this is an iPad 4 guide!

    Mike Enos -

    This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.

    wperrin623 - Antwort

    How do i fix my digitiser if it's broken? Do i need to buy a new iPad screen with digitiser?

    Jenny Le - Antwort

    just ruined my digitiser..any ideas how to fix it?

    dleimonis -

    There is an error in the red text in this step. It says ‘The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad’. The next sentence says .. ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.. This will slice and ruin that cable. The last sentence should read ‘Stop sliding the pick when you get ~1.75" from the bottom of the iPad.’ so you stop cutting glue before you get to the digitizer cable.

    @Jenny & @dleimonis - you can buy the digitizer and new cable by itself if you do not need an LCD also. They are separate parts.

    Jon Lucenius - Antwort

  24. Löse den Kleber entlang der linken unteren Ecke mit dem Pick, dass sich noch an der Unterkante des iPads befindet. Das untere Ende des Digitizer-Kabels ist nur etwa 1cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Gehe langsam und vorsichtig vor und achte darauf, das Kabel nicht durchzutrennen.
    • Löse den Kleber entlang der linken unteren Ecke mit dem Pick, dass sich noch an der Unterkante des iPads befindet.

    • Das untere Ende des Digitizer-Kabels ist nur etwa 1cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt. Gehe langsam und vorsichtig vor und achte darauf, das Kabel nicht durchzutrennen.

    If your screen is broken or shattered there are no worries with the digitizer cable, It is all on the new screen.

    Danny Hartley - Antwort

    Exactly. I purposely severed mine as it was a complete screen replacement and made the LCD removal easier.

    jesseokerlund - Antwort

  25. Heble mit einem Opening Pick die rechte untere Ecke des iPads nach oben und ergreife es. Teilweise kann der Kleber rund um das iPad wieder angezogen haben.  Wenn das der Fall ist, fahre mit einem Pick unter die Kante des iPads, wo das Frontglas noch festklebt und "durchtrenne" den Kleber.
    • Heble mit einem Opening Pick die rechte untere Ecke des iPads nach oben und ergreife es.

    • Teilweise kann der Kleber rund um das iPad wieder angezogen haben. Wenn das der Fall ist, fahre mit einem Pick unter die Kante des iPads, wo das Frontglas noch festklebt und "durchtrenne" den Kleber.

    Should be right-hand corner

    longg - Antwort

    Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

    thetechandtutor - Antwort

    I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

    nickmalmquist - Antwort

    At this point it is a good idea to get the packing tape back out and wrap it around 2 or 3 of your fingers making a circle with the sticky on the outside. Make it loose enough you can place your fingers on the table surface to the side and pull your fingers out. When you remove all the tiny parts/screws in the next steps put them on top of the tape so you know exactly where they are when you need them

    windizy - Antwort

  26. Halte das iPad an der unteren und oberen rechten Ecke fest und klappe das Frontglas vom iPad weg. Achte darauf, dass möglicherweise noch Kleber vorhanden sein könnte. Schneide mit einem Opening Pick jeglichen Kleber, der das Front Panel noch unten halten könnte, durch.
    • Halte das iPad an der unteren und oberen rechten Ecke fest und klappe das Frontglas vom iPad weg.

    • Achte darauf, dass möglicherweise noch Kleber vorhanden sein könnte. Schneide mit einem Opening Pick jeglichen Kleber, der das Front Panel noch unten halten könnte, durch.

    Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

    jerry81 - Antwort

    Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

    patjmccarthy - Antwort

    Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

    James - Antwort

    You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

    Rany -

    In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

    Th Th - Antwort

    Very good suggestion. It worked like a charm.

    Laurie Higgins -

    you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

    De Dios sept.10 2014

    dediosjon - Antwort

    where is the connecotr for home button at the ipad 3....i have nothin where i can plug in the flex cable comin from the button

    Georg Heinze - Antwort

    Go slowly as you lift up the glass and be sure that you are not tearing a ribbon cable. When I lifted the glass the digitizer cable was torn and unusable. Perhaps I had cut it with the pick/spudger but it tore completely off when I lifted the glass. Good thing I had purchased the full front panel assembly with the digitizer (IF116-018-3).

    robertmhussey - Antwort

    When reassembling I used canned air to blow off dust on the LCD before closing it up.

    robertmhussey - Antwort

    You can use a clean soft brush like a make-up brush or small paint brush to brush off the LCD.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwort

    I like how the pictures show an intact screen being removed (although the one in step 4 has a couple of cracks in). I don’t know if anyone would have the luxury of being able to remove a screen in one piece, the ipads I've fixed have been completely smashed pretty much all the way around the outside of the lcd underneath. I used this guide to know where to watch for cables etc - very helpful. I end up using a window scraper/razor to scrape off the glass shards/adhesive around the edge. Glass shards/dust all over the lcd is easy enough to get off but cleaning the lcd after that is a real pain. Does anyone have any suggestions how to clean the lcd properly?

    jmzaj - Antwort

    When reassembling the glass, align the camera first. On the back of the glass there are two pins on the metal camera frame.

    Align them to the camera first, in order to avoid to get a ‘bulge’ visible on the glass or on the back of the iPad.

    Luca Forti - Antwort

    +1 to Luca’s comment. This deserves a RED NOTE for reassembly. I probably just destroyed my new wifi antenna due to not having a reassembly call out for alignment of the screen. Had to pry things back apart and wifi antenna looks like it may have bit the dust. So this is a VERY important bit to know for a first timer.

    Benjamin Pappas - Antwort

  27. Entferne die vier 2,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den LCD am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen.
    • Entferne die vier 2,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den LCD am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen.

    It would be good to see how reassembling.

    Gabriel Ganga - Antwort

    Yes, or at least show where the adhesive parts go

    Luke Barone - Antwort

    I'll second the request to see how to reassemble!

    Maggie - Antwort

  28. Die Front Panel Flachbandkabel sind unterhalb des LCD festgemacht. Um sie zugänglich zu machen, musst du kurzzeitig das LCD aus dem Weg klappen. Sei dabei sehr vorsichtig mit dem LCD und versuche nicht, es vom iPad zu entfernen—das Displaydatenkabel bleibt angeschlossen, während das Display umgeklappt wird.
    • Die Front Panel Flachbandkabel sind unterhalb des LCD festgemacht. Um sie zugänglich zu machen, musst du kurzzeitig das LCD aus dem Weg klappen.

    • Sei dabei sehr vorsichtig mit dem LCD und versuche nicht, es vom iPad zu entfernen—das Displaydatenkabel bleibt angeschlossen, während das Display umgeklappt wird.

    • Hebe das LCD an der langen Kante auf der Lautsprecherreglerseite an und klappe es vorsichtig aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraus —so als ob du eine Buchseite umblätterst.

    • Lege das LCD umgekehrt auf das Front Panel.

  29. Klappe die Haltebügel an den beiden ZIF-Sockeln der Digitizer Flachbandkabel vorsichtig mit einem Plastic Opening Tool um. Achte darauf, dass du an den klappbaren Haltebügeln hebelst und nicht an den Sockeln selbst.
    • Klappe die Haltebügel an den beiden ZIF-Sockeln der Digitizer Flachbandkabel vorsichtig mit einem Plastic Opening Tool um.

    • Achte darauf, dass du an den klappbaren Haltebügeln hebelst und nicht an den Sockeln selbst.

    • Die Haltebügel sind rot im zweiten Bild hervorgehoben.

  30. Benutze die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools um das Digitizer Kabel von der Abschirmung auf dem Logic Board zu lösen. Ziehe das Digitizer vorsichtig vom Kleber ab, mit dem es an der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses festgemacht ist.
    • Benutze die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools um das Digitizer Kabel von der Abschirmung auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Ziehe das Digitizer vorsichtig vom Kleber ab, mit dem es an der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses festgemacht ist.

    It is a really good idea to apply a bit of heat to this ribbon cable prior to removal. Ribbon cables that are held in place with adhesive can tear easily. Taking a moment to warm it up will help make the removal much easier.

    Joshua - Antwort

  31. Ziehe die Digitizer Flachbandkabel gerade aus ihren Sockeln auf dem Logic Board heraus.
    • Ziehe die Digitizer Flachbandkabel gerade aus ihren Sockeln auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?

    Pedro Trindade - Antwort

    When reassembling, don’t remove the adhesive strip until you’re sure the new cable is inserted correctly and locked in place. Place the LCD panel inside the case, and the screen inside the bezel, turn on the iPad. If you can drag an icon across the screen, from top to bottom, left to right, your screen is correctly installed and you can proceed removing the adhesive.

    Candice McDowell - Antwort

    After I replaced the digitizer the volume button the side of my ipad will go down but not back up and it’s not powering off. Any ideas why this is happening?

    Jonathan Davidson - Antwort

  32. Um die Front Panel Einheit zu entfernen muss das Flachbandkabel zwischen dem Gehäuse und dem LCD herausgleiten. Um etwas Platz zu schaffen, muss das LCD bewegt werden. Sei beim Bewegen des LCD sehr vorsichtig und versuche nicht, es vom iPad zu entfernen—das Kabel bleibt während des Umklappens verbunden.
    • Um die Front Panel Einheit zu entfernen muss das Flachbandkabel zwischen dem Gehäuse und dem LCD herausgleiten. Um etwas Platz zu schaffen, muss das LCD bewegt werden.

    • Sei beim Bewegen des LCD sehr vorsichtig und versuche nicht, es vom iPad zu entfernen—das Kabel bleibt während des Umklappens verbunden.

    • Hebe das LCD an der Längsseite, die am weitesten vom Digitizer entfernt ist, an und klappe es vorsichtig zu dem hinteren Gehäuse—so, als ob du ein Buch schließt.

    • Während du das LCD oben hälst, bewege das Front Panel vorsichtig vom iPad weg. Achte darauf, dass das Digitizer Kabel nicht am hinteren Gehäuse oder dem LCD hängen bleibt.

    • Lege das LCD zurück in den Aufbau, damit es sicher aufbewahrt ist.

    (Step 14 should be deleted.)

    John Cain - Antwort

    why it should be deleted?

    i think it's necessary to remove the digitizer cable before we lift up the logicboard

    Can Han -

    It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.

    Ed Chapman - Antwort

    random question...........1 problem i've ran into in the past is the digitizer cable is so long on aftermarket screens the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the glass down around the digitizer area where it is folded.

    would it help to have a 2nd person tilt glass straight up off table and tuck some extra cable under the lcd or will this cause a problem with the lcd itself?

    Jason S - Antwort

  33. Die Home Button Einheit ist mit etwas Kleber am Front Panel festgemacht. Die Benutzung eines  iOpeners, um den Kleber weich zu machen, wird wärmstens empfohlen.
    • Die Home Button Einheit ist mit etwas Kleber am Front Panel festgemacht. Die Benutzung eines iOpeners, um den Kleber weich zu machen, wird wärmstens empfohlen.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mikrowelle und lasse die Mikrowelle eine Minute auf der höchsten Stufe laufen.

    • Achte während des Reparaturvorgangs darauf, den iOpener nicht zu überhitzen. Wir empfehlen, mindestens zwei Minuten vor einer erneuten Erhitzung des iOpeners zu warten.

    • Platziere den iOpener über dem Home Button auf der Vorderseite des Displays.

    The digitizer assembly I bought from iFixit had the home button assembly and camera bracket already mounted. Steps 36 to 41 are no longer needed.

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort

    Except, in my case, the new ifixit screen assembly's button didn't work correctly when installed, so I had to pull it back off and remove the old, origninal apple button assembly and put it in place of the ifixit aftermarket one.

    ben - Antwort

  34. Keile das Plastic Opening Tool unter die rechte Seite der Home Button Einheit und heble nach oben, um den Kleber auf dieser Seite zu lösen. Keile das Plastic Opening Tool unter die rechte Seite der Home Button Einheit und heble nach oben, um den Kleber auf dieser Seite zu lösen.
    • Keile das Plastic Opening Tool unter die rechte Seite der Home Button Einheit und heble nach oben, um den Kleber auf dieser Seite zu lösen.

    Note the distance of the home button mount from the bottom edge of the digitizer. Cut and pasted from the adhesive tutorial (thanks, John): Make sure the home button mounting bracket has a parallel gap of 1-2 mm from the bottom of the digitizer.

    patjmccarthy - Antwort

    Position the home button and push the panel onto it. Remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. If you position the home button on the digitizer it will be more trial and error.

    asle -

    I can see that there is no cut and dry method of positoning the home button assembly. The screen I am replacing was shattered around the home button, so when I was putting it back together, I had no reference for placement. So....I got it too far towards the edge of the frame, then it wouldn't fit in the opening, when trying to place the screen on the frame.

    dbrown900 - Antwort

  35. Löse mit der gleichen Technik auch den Kleber unter der linken Seite der Home Button Einheit. Hebe die Home Button Halterung von dem Front Panel.
    • Löse mit der gleichen Technik auch den Kleber unter der linken Seite der Home Button Einheit.

    • Hebe die Home Button Halterung von dem Front Panel.

    When I got the home button it threw me off because mine (that I bought from a nearby store) had a ribbon cable attached to it. I was freaking out trying to find where it goes, but instead decided to swap the home button units.

    Sean Cloughley - Antwort

  36. Führe die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools unter die Kante des Home Button Haltebügels. Fahre mit dem Plastic Opening Tool entlang der Federhalterung und löse dabei den Kleber. Entferne den Home Button mitsamt dem Haltebügel vom Front Panel.
    • Führe die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools unter die Kante des Home Button Haltebügels.

    • Fahre mit dem Plastic Opening Tool entlang der Federhalterung und löse dabei den Kleber.

    • Entferne den Home Button mitsamt dem Haltebügel vom Front Panel.

  37. Der Kamerahalter ist mit Kleber am Front Panel angebracht. Die Benutzung eines iOpener, um den Kleber zu aufzuweichen, ist dringend empfohlen.
    • Der Kamerahalter ist mit Kleber am Front Panel angebracht. Die Benutzung eines iOpener, um den Kleber zu aufzuweichen, ist dringend empfohlen.

    • Lege den iOpener für eine Minute auf höchster Stufe in die Mikrowelle.

    • Sei vorsichtig, dass du iOpener während des Reparaturvorgangs nicht überhitzt. Wir empfehlen mindestens zwei Minuten vor der Wiedererwärmung des iOpeners zu warten.

    • Platziere den iOpener auf der Frontkamera oben auf der Vorderseite des Displays.

    The only problem I found during this whole thing was reattaching the camera bracket to the new digitizer. iFixit's Adhesive pack, which comes with the front panel kit, does not have any adhesive for that part. Hopefully, yours will still have some glue that will be enough to glue it back, like mine.

    ERICOLIVETREE - Antwort

    I have done 2 glass/digitizer replacements and none of the old glass had the camera bracket, so I put it back together without them. Anybody else find this?

    Palomino - Antwort

  38. Schiebe den Kamerahalter mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers von dem Kleber, mit dem er am Front Panel festgemacht ist. Der Kamerahalter wird sich etwa 2 mm nach links oder rechts bewegen, abhängig davon in welche Richtung du schiebst.
    • Schiebe den Kamerahalter mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers von dem Kleber, mit dem er am Front Panel festgemacht ist.

    • Der Kamerahalter wird sich etwa 2 mm nach links oder rechts bewegen, abhängig davon in welche Richtung du schiebst.

  39. Lupfe den Kamerahalter und entferne ihn vom Front Panel.
    • Lupfe den Kamerahalter und entferne ihn vom Front Panel.

    A good way to make sure the camera bracket sits correctly is to slip it into place on the camera with adhesive. Remove only a portion of the film at the top of the digitizer (where the camera bracket sits.) Then position the digitizer into place at the top and push down so the bracket sticks in correct position. I do the same for the home button. remove the portion of film from the digitizer, adhesive from the home button, then push down in place the bottom of the screen so the home button sticks to the digitizer. Check that the home button works properly before removing the adhesive covers and the final closing.

    asle - Antwort

    After fitting the screen, it wouldn’t turn on. It needed a hard reset before it started working again. (Power + home button for ca. 10sec)

    Kristof - Antwort

  40. Das Front Panel bleibt übrig.
    • Das Front Panel bleibt übrig.

    • Wenn du dein Panel gegen ein neues ersetzt, kontrolliere, ob das neue Panel eventuell auf der Außen- und/oder der Innenseite eine Schutzfolie hat. Diese muss entfernt werden.

    When closing the digitizer it is essential that you have tucked the digitizer cable into the opening between the frame and the LCD. Or else you can experience a small raise on the digitizer where the cable goes down.

    - Be careful that the adhesive along the panel does not stick to the cable

    - Position to close the side of the panel where the cable is

    - Use the plastic opening tool to fold in the cable underneath the LCD. This cable is more robust than e.g. the iPad Mini digitizer cable. There is an opening between the frame and the LCD where the cable runs down to the logic board

    - Make sure the cable is running downward into the iPad. There should be no folded cable on the frame but into the gap.

    Close the side and adjust the panel to the other side and position it in place. This way you avoid any bulge on that side of the digitizer and it will sit perfectly.

    asle - Antwort

    I didn't read the comment above from asle, and I had to take it back apart again and reroute the cable correctly. Read that comment carefully.

    Chris Jordan - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Anweisungen in umgekehrter Reihenfolge und benutze unsere Anleitung zum Anbringen der iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Klebestreifen, um dein Front Panel wieder zu befestigen.

367 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

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Step11- I tore the antenna, still works though. Buy a new one for 2 bucks off amazon before repair just in case.

Dave Y - Antwort

Correct! I tore my antenna also, but my wifi signal was so weak I had to replace the whole antenna, which required more time. The picture in Step 11 actually shows the antenna broken off the cable. That confused me a little. If your antenna looks like the one in step 11 you broke it! But I did complete the repair successfully. I also suggest you pick up a cheap antenna just in case.

mamos68 -

I would recommend that in cases of replacing shattered screens, that you tape the front panel glass with clear packing tape using overlapping strips, before you begin. This helps to ensure that the panel stays intact, and reduces the chances of puncturing the digitizing layer, and damaging the LCD upon removal.

You want to use clear tape so that you are able to see how any of the glass remnants are shifting during removal.

dcorsivo - Antwort

This is a very good idea. I was replacing one with a shattered screen and it was a pain in the ##@ because it kept breaking again and again, not to mention the safety glasses I had to wear because tiny glass bits kept flying into my eyes.

Have you edited the guide to include a step about this?

Logan Kennedy -

After replacing the screen I noticed it looked horrible because the little plastic bezel was missing. I considered reusing the old one but it got pretty beat up in the removal process so it wasn't really an option.

I will be editing the guide to mention trying to keep the plastic bezel intact so it can be reused after the screen is replaced. If it cannot be reused, I feel like the parts kit that includes the new screen should include a new bezel.

Logan Kennedy - Antwort

After looking closer, I see that it suggests prying between the glass and the bezel and leaving the bezel behind, once again my fault for not reading closely enough. I will say that this is quite difficult to do when the screen is already shattered...

Logan Kennedy -

The updated iOpener version of the guide references "a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad". This is incorrect, that applies to iPad 3/4 only. For iPad 2 you should still be starting to the right of the home button, taking care to avoid damaging the WiFi antenna.

DarrenG - Antwort

You can use a hair dryer as a heating device to soften the glue.

The plastic tools are easy to break if you push too hard.

Have more than a couple guitar picks too.

Be safe with the broken glass, PROTECT YOUR EYES! GLASS PIECES FLY EVERYWHERE!

Have a way to manage the broken glass pieces.

McGiord - Antwort

I have used a heat gun in the past and it does a similar job to the hair dryer. Just keep the setting on low heat to prevent burns. I agree with McGlord tô have plenty of picks on hand to keep under the screen to prevent it sticking again.

Wayne Lyell -

I found it helpful to tape the ipad to a heat proof kitchen cutting board with non slip bottom, by making loops of gaffer tape. This kept it from moving around and still allowed me to change the orientation of the ipad. I also premarked the areas of the wifi antenna and the sensor cable on the front of the ipad with a grease pen, then taped it over with packing tape. Helped me remember not to go too far and to be careful at those places. The isesame tool and an exacto blade worked well, with a heat gun set on low. Used the guitar picks as place holders. Fun and fulfilling!

garai1 - Antwort

I think I broke the connectors for the digitizer cable. I can't get the locks back in and the touch screen isnt working properly. Anyone have any tips for putting the locks back in?

gary - Antwort

This guide was very helpful, my repair was made difficult by the fact that the part off my screen that was most destroyed was the place where you're supposed to start removing the screen from. I did damage my Wi-Fi antenna and needed to replace it. Overall the repair went according to plan. Thank you ifixit!

christian81795 - Antwort

The guide is very thorough and the pictures on each step very helpful. Was able to remove without damaging WiFi antenna. Be careful and try to not destroy the bezel on removal. Should be included as part of the front panel kit to be replaced.

mmmdawg91 - Antwort

General

I used the kit from iFixit. It worked fine. But I killed the iOpener in my microwave. So I had to replace it by a cooling pad. This works as well. I would not recommend to heat it in the microwave. Heat the iOpener in boiling water. That way it gets as hot as it could, without overheating. Don't be afraid of water on the heated pad. Dry it on a towel after heating, but water on it evaporates fast, if it is really hot.

Step 31: Have a closer look on the digitiser ribbon. It is folded. When reassembling with replacement kit, fold its ribbon first. And it might be a good idea to remove the screen ribbon. It is attached to the board with a small bracket on the connector.

Before you remove the protection ribbons from the assembly kit, check whether it fits. In my case the screen broke as it fell on one of the edges. I had to bend it a little bit outwards so the new panel fetched in.

Have some spectacles cloth available for cleaning the screen if it might become necessary. Beware of dust

Bernhard Keim - Antwort

I replaced the Front Panel which came with adhesive strips. I very carefully removed the original glue and carefully cleaned the adhesion surfaces on the rear case. The iPad worked perfect for a few days but then the Front Panel started lifting off on the left bottom corner near the home button. Is there something special that needs to be considered when putting together?

George Wonder - Antwort

Step 29

When putting the new digitizer screen back in, does the cable fully insert into the gap between the frame and under the LCD, or does part of it pancake between the digitizer and above the LCD screen ?

Tom

gionpeters - Antwort

yes you have to fold it between the digitizer and frame. you can tell from inspecting the old one

Ethan Chow -

When doing service like this one, how important is it to remove the leftover adhesive that still sits on the edges around the thing? Do I have to get rid of all or at least most of it or maybe it doesn't even matter at all?

skulasonarni - Antwort

I fix these everyday for my school, and I have torn the WIFI antenna. The fix isn't too difficult you just have to be careful. I often use antennas from iPad's that are too damaged to fix. I agree it is poor placement as the adhesive can melt to the chip and pull it up with the screen.

Alec - Antwort

Tore to power ribbon between to power button and the volume buttons on the top right. Just going to use assertive touch and plug in to turn it on and off. Other than that my first iPad repair went well. Great guide!

Anthony Martinez - Antwort

Thanks so much! I was able to replace my child's screen following your guidelines! Yay!

shelly1016 - Antwort

Great Job With Screen Replacement Instructions! Thanks! Fixed 2 ipad front panels thanks to you.

John Last - Antwort

I used a different supplier for the replacement, and now there is a wierd pattern of lines on the left side of the screen. Not sure what caused it, and everything still works, but it is just ugly

Sam Luber - Antwort

I found the instructions very thorough and complete. Thanks very much. You made something that seemed very complicated, easy and practical for me to do on my own.

mtn - Antwort

The steps were clear and easy to follow, and the screen repair kit included a great set of tools. Because my screen was badly shattered at the edge, we had to remove the bezel as we went, and we could not avoid damaging the WiFi antenna. I’m glad we purchased a bezel and antenna along with the screen repair kit so we didn’t have to make another order mid-repair.

ewhansen - Antwort

These instructions are very clear and everything works without issue. Be sure to check the digitizer connection before pulling off the adhesive strips on the panel- it doesn’t have to be glued down to work. The digitizer included was functional, but I had failed to tighten the latch that held the ribbon cable in place before reassembly, so it was only partially attached when I secured the screen. The purchase of a $20 heat gun (750° F on low) took the disassembly process from 30-60 min to a mere 5. I would highly recommend having one on hand for this repair. Thanks iFixit!!

Candice McDowell - Antwort

If you frequent repair this device, 30 min repair is possible! :)

Benjamin - Antwort

I was able to remove the glass panel following these directions but I used about 12 small paperclips instead of the guitar pics as I went along. The rounded edges of the paperclips were a safe alternative for placing in under the glass about every inch as I worked my way around.

Luke Shoemaker - Antwort

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