thanks for posting this fix. I have an M01286 and have been wondering how this comes apart so I can clean the dust out from the scroll wheel. Turns out the case screws are not under the label but under the rubber pads. I've taken apart lots of stuff before and can't believe I did not think to look under the pads! Duh. Anyway, your teardown gave me the kick in the pants I needed to go the extra mile. Although the innards of my trackball are nothing like yours I got it all cleaned up and shiny. Wouldn't have got it done w/o your post.

Where did you get the screen?

This whole battery replacement took more than 4 hours. Most of the time was devoted to cleaning the surfaces on both halves of the iPad. The other reason for the time of repair is probably due to my age (mid-70's) and the poor dexterity and eyesight that comes with old age. I bought the appropriate adhesive strips to bond the top case to the bottom but the instructions left much to my imagination. The 3 pieces adhesive installation needs to be updated to match their currently available product.

The guide says "Don't try to remove the display cable bracket as it's attached to the battery by the battery cable.Don't try to remove the display cable bracket as it's attached to the battery by the battery cable.".

Well then, please explain how to attach a new battery since my battery does not come with an attached display cable bracket. This point caused me a lot of confusion and finally I removed the bracket and installed it on the new battery. But the question remains about exactly what is the required steps.

The bracket has conductive material fixed to the underside but the part that goes on the battery connector has a separate piece of adhesive which may or may not serve as to insulate. Without any available guidance, I installed the battery cable and the top of it rests on the conductive material, apparently providing a ground bond between the other 3 connectors and the bracket.

More information should be provided here.

I have not seen any info in this guide about removing the battery connector from the underside of the display bracket. I wonder if all I need to do is pull it off (which is what I did) but is that just sticky tape under or is it conductive and necessary for proper operation?

I used the method shown in these steps but later on I reviewed battery removal of a iPad 4 mini. That guide used the iOpener on the backside of the case. That seems like a good idea to me and wish I had checked that out before going to step 35.

"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "

When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

The front-facing camera and rear microphone assembly I received didn't include some of the foam protectors that are on the original assembly. I was unable to remove those pieces from the original assembly so completed the install w/o the foam pieces. The phone works ok but I would rather have been able to apply the foam pieces. I suspect the foam is there to keep everything in place and maybe help keep the connector from popping off.