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Das im November 2020 erschienene 13" MacBook Air verfügt über Apples Arm-basierten M1-SoC mit einer 8-Kern-CPU und bis zu einer 8-Kern-GPU. (Modell A2337 / EMC 3598 mit zwei Thunderbolt 3-Anschlüssen)

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Anyone knows where the lid sensor is located for the M1 MacBook Air?

I spilled some water on my keyboard and gave it in to a shop for repairs. They quoted a value that was too high for replacing the trackpad so I got it back. They seem to have messed up some of the stuff like leaving the battery disconnected when they handed it over to me. I just started noticing that the device does not seem to realize when the clamshell is closed. Anyone knows where the sensor for the lid is located for this device so I can have a look at it? Thanks a lot!

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I can’t be sure as I have not seen the system physically. But I think the iFixit guides and parts listings gives us a good clue!

Typically Apple places the Hall sensor along the left or right sides of the logic board or I/O board depending on the series. You’ll want to verify by using a steel paper clip sliding it along the inside side of the display lid to locate the magnet. making note with a piece of colored tape or post-it marker fold the lid down and where the pointer falls is where the Hall sensor is located.

So looking at the logic board and the audio jack board its clear the sensor is not present on them. The next two parts is the left and right speakers. I do see extra contacts in the right speaker and that leads me to believe the sensor is hidden within it.

Left speaker connector

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Right speaker

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Thanks! I will try this out. So in case this is the hall sensor, and its not working, would I have to replace the entire right speaker to get it to work again?

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@ghantaz - Sorry my crystal ball is a bit cloudy, I can't tell you that ;-{

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Ah makes sense. Well thanks! I will check this out and update my answer here once I figure it out.

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I dont know what happened, but I replaced my trackpad (since that was the part which was damaged from the spill) and the sensor started working again. I didn’t touch the speaker at all and now I see my screen shutting off as I lower it.

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@ghantaz - Magic! Likely the spill took awhile to evaporate. In any case please score the answer and accept it - Thanks!

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@danj you are incorrect,not accepting that answer. I had the same issue after a battery replacement, and reseated the trackpad cable that leads to the underside of the logic board and it is "magically" working again. Thank you @ghantaz

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@j_tuck - I didn’t accept it, the OP did!

Shifting a cable can often scrape the contact surfaces enough to reconnect. This often happens with water spills. Tap water is not H2O alone minerals and salts are present and a little current creates electrolysis which decomposes the metals.

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I crashed with my MAC and the same happened. I couldn't get it to turn disply off when I closed the lid... I reseated all of the flexes from the trackpad and keyboard (I did all because I didn't know which would fix it if any). Do this with a disconnected battery of course! After reconnecting them all, I connected the battery again and it turned on no issue, with the lid detection working properly too! At first, the keyboard wasn't working. I reopened the MAC and so that the keyboard flex (the one on the right, the widest) wasn't completely in. Remeber to not put all od the back cover screws until you are sure your MAC works as expected.
Hope this helps!

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BLUF: it was a loose cable; reseating the connector fixed the issue.

Got an old yet working MacBookPro8,1. Wanted to use it to experiment with OLP (OpenCore Legacy Patcher). Also wanted to clean its internals from dust and rubbish, especially the fan. So I followed MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Fan Replacement and cleaned it internals up. Then left it a few weeks – no hurry regarding OLP.

First try with OLP failed, so I wiped the disk and reinstalled High Sierra. Then found out closing the lid didn’t sleep the Mac. Tried everything listed in Fixed: MacBook not sleeping when the lid is closed and then some. To no avail. Must be hardware related. Got a bit anxious when reading Beating Apple’s secret lid angle sensor calibration with custom tool and Lid sensor calibration.

Decided to reopen the Mac, and there it was. Turns out it was a loose cable. To be specific: open the bottom cover and orient so you are looking at the machine so the battery is to the bottom right. The cable that controls the battery indicator lights and sleep sensor arises from the top right of the battery and inserts into the motherboard via a small square cable. Reseating the connector fixed the issue.

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Tanmaya Mishra wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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