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Repair and disassembly guides for GE Microwave ovens.

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Strange behavior after door switch replacement

I have a GE microwave from 2012 (WES1452SS1SS) That developed door switch issues. It would stop mid-cook or not start at all. I used it for years this way until it had a full failure. I opened it up and found the lowest door switch had failed. That switch is for the door open lever on the front. I ordered 3 new Omron switches of the same specs from Newark. They went in fine, and I had reference pics to compare wiring. Now the light and fan com on with the door closed instead of open. I tried running it for a few seconds with the door closed and it blew the fuse? I don't have my multimeter here to check things. What could the problem be? They're simple switches and fit perfectly.

The old switches were Starion SZM-V16 and the Omrons are V-15-2C26-K

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Hi Ryan,

Those microswitches come in three flavors, NO (Normally Open), NC (Normally Closed), and ones with three contacts that support both. I'm seriously wondering if you've gotten one that's backwards from what you wanted; i.e., NO when you needed NC or vice versa. Whenever I'm replacing door switches, I just buy the one that supports both operations; that way I can use it in any position whether it needs to be NO, NC or both. Here's a picture of a switch that I'm talking about.

Block Image

The red arrow is pointing to the common connector; that one is used on all switches.
Orange shows the NO contact and yellow is the NC contact. Check your replacement switch against the original and verify that the contact you have is in the same position on both switches. If not, there's your problem; you've got the wrong polarity switch.

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That's a good point, but no. They're exactly the same. Two spade connectors on each, and common goes to normally closed. The diagrams on the side of both new and old are identical.


@Ryan Langan Well dang, was hoping it was something simple, but as long as the contacts are in the same position on both switches, that's not the problem.

You mentioned buying three switches; am I correct in assuming you only replaced the one?

You might want to grab that multimeter or a continuity tester and check the operation of all the switches when you open and close the door; I found that there can be some misalignment that keeps them from working even if they look like they're sitting correctly.

I've also run across switches that appear to be working; they click when they should but the multimeter showed they weren't actually working. I'd be especially suspicious of one that's a NC connection, as that's the disengage switch to cut power when the door is open.


@dadibrokeit Sorry for the late reply, I didn't get a notification. I replaced all three switches. It had issues and blew the fuse. I then pulled out the two new upper switches and put back the old ones. I tested them with a meter before putting them back. It blew the fuse again. I finally threw it out. Today, I picked up a free Kitchen Aid that wasn't working. I knew it could be a similar issue, but I have the two new Omron switches left, and lots of people seem to be able to fix their microwaves this way. The middle switch on the KA was bad, and I replaced it with an Omron, and still no joy. Didn't blow the fuse right away, but hitting start (+30 sec) killed it.


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Ryan Langan wird auf ewig dankbar sein.

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