Einleitung
Is your OnePlus Nord N200 not holding a charge as long as it used to, or is it experiencing power issues that suggest a failing battery? If poor battery life, unexpected shutdowns, or failure to charge consistently, it might be time to consider replacing the battery. For a detailed troubleshooting approach, you might find our troubleshooting page helpful
This is a guide on how to replace the battery in the OnePlus Nord N200, also known by its model number DE2118. This guide aims to equip you with the necessary steps and precautions for replacing the battery of your device. You’ll need a set of precision tools and a replacement battery that is compatible with the OnePlus Nord N200. Follow this guide closely to safely replace the battery
Tips and Warnings:
Handle swollen batteries with extreme caution as they can be hazardous. If your battery is swollen, it’s advisable to proceed with replacement immediately and avoid puncturing the battery. Take a look at this guide for more details on what to do with a swollen battery.
Back up data before starting the repair, back up your data to avoid any potential data loss.
Dispose of the old battery properly according to local regulations. Batteries should not be thrown in regular trash due to their toxic and reactive components.
Here is a helpful link on battery disposal.
Was du brauchst
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Insert the Jimmy into the seam between the rear glass and the midframe at the bottom edge of the phone to create a gap.
Frag FixBot
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Insert an iFixit opening pick into the gap you created with the Jimmy.
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Slide the Jimmy around the phone to slice the adhesive.
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Insert a second iFixit opening pick at the spot you have sliced open to keep it open.
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Slide the iFixit opening pick along the top edge to slice the adhesive.
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Start prying the back plate off the phone.
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Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the sixteen 3.6 mm-long screws securing the midframe.
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Gently insert the Jimmy to create a gap between the midframe and the top of components in the bottom case.
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Slide an opening pick around the edge of the midframe to slice the adhesive.
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Use the Jimmy to pry off the midframe of the phone.
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Use your hands to finish prying open the midframe off the phone.
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Pull the midframe off of the phone and lay it to the side of the phone.
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Place a spudger or an opening tool under the connector's edge and pry straight up to disconnect the fingerprint cable connector.
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Move the fingerprint reader cable to the side along with the midframe.
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Place a spudger or an opening pick under the connector's edge and pry straight up to disconnect the battery.
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Insert iFixit opening pick under speaker assembly.
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Lift up the iFixit opening pick to pull out the speaker assembly out of its tray.
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Place a spudger or an opening tool under the connector's edge and pry straight up to disconnect the battery.
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To disconnect the black coaxial cable connector, slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or angled tweezers under the metal neck (as close to the head as possible) and lift straight up from the board.
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Slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or angled tweezers under the metal neck of the white coaxial cable connector (as close to the head as possible) and lift straight up from the board.
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Insert the iFixit opening pick under either side of the I/O board.
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Use the opening pick or a spudger to pry under the I/O board and remove it from the case.
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Pull up on the red tab to begin removing the battery and the tape around it.
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Before pulling the battery out completely, remove the black tape surrounding it.
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Pull the red tab all the way up to lift the battery up from the frame.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
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Will I need new adhesive for the back panel? Or should it be fine without it?
Removing the speaker/io boards are unnecessary. You can skip those steps.
You will need new adhesive for the back panel. Everything I've found seems to indicate B-7000 glue is the way to go. Some people were saying to use T-7000, as it will result in a better water-proof seal than B-7000, but T-7000 is apparently a LOT harder to remove if you ever need to get back into the phone for additional repairs.
