Where is the RAM?
I've taken it to the internal image but can't find where the RAM sits?
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I've taken it to the internal image but can't find where the RAM sits?
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i need more info does ur phone get hot or did u drop it? I mean u could just have a bad battery or damaged hardware such as a bad port a bad bypass chip or even could be the screen is not meant for it and was a manufactures error
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hay yew First off Welcome to iFixit. I noticed that you joined yesterday. Great. Now let's slow down. The purpose of this forum is to help other people with the repair of their devices. Nobody on here knows everything but everybody knows something. Hence repair is a team effort and as time progresses you will recognize that we have some real specialists on here like @imicrosoldering These specialists are not self promoters, they have proven that they know what they are talking about over and over.
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Anyhow, welcome to iFixit.
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I received a new display and battery for my iPhone 8plus from the iFixit store and installed both yesterday.
I am really happy about the display but I do have an issue with the battery:
I am unable to calibrate it, because after recharging it to 100% and letting it drain, the phone turned itself off at 50%.
I connected it back on charge and it showed 50% battery.
I tried again, and again at 50% the phone turned off, but this time restart it showed a 14% battery charge, although usage shows 50%
Don't really know how to make it work.
Screenshot1: first attempt: Phone turned itself off at 50%
Screenshot2: second attempt: turned itself off at 50%, then on restart shows 11% battery
The screen has been broken for a while now and my original battery was kind of wearing off so I decided to change both.
No drops and then battery doesn’t get specifically hot (normally when recharging)
Was a pretty standard swap, I suppose
Chris Stables @imicrosoldering
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If your phone wasn’t shutting down at 50% with the old battery but is with the new one than it could be that the battery you purchased is faulty. But first I would check that the battery connector is seated properly. There is also some components on the logic board around the battery connector that if nudged can cause problems with the battery data but this usually results in boot looping and no battery data. I would return the battery for a replacement one.
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I've had this thing forever and out of nowhere it would turn off after turning on for 10 seconds. It was booting into windows XP perfectly fine and then the issue would return. Online is no help just saying to apply pressure on a part near the power button for the duration you want to use it, I'm looking for a long lasting solution. Others have the same issue so it seems to be a design flaw. It may help that the pcb for the power buttons is separate from the main mobo.
The power button pcb on it's own
Main mobo without the button pcb
The pcb connected
@uchetil I can solder, the thing is I'm not sure what exact chip I need to re-solder. I remember this video shows where to apply pressure when powering on. Also I remember once getting it to stay on longer than 10 seconds only turning off when I manually shut it off so I could figure out which one I held down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILLvioWt...
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@uchetil I can solder, the thing is I'm not sure what exact chip I need to re-solder. I remember this video shows where to apply pressure when powering on. Also I remember once getting it to stay on longer than 10 seconds only turning off when I manually shut it off so I could figure out which one I held down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILLvioWt...
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I found an old Dell Inspiron 1420 and have been repairing it slowly over the last month or two. Recently I purchased this replacement charger for it as the laptop wouldn’t charge on my existing one designed for an HP laptop. With this new charger the “non-genuine adapter” message goes away and the computer reports it’s trying to charge the battery but it appears to remain uncharged no mater how long it’s plugged in. The bios says it is unable to communicate with the battery. The battery light on the laptop will blink orange forever when the laptop is plugged in on the new charger. I’m unsure what this means but my best guess is given the laptops age the battery is bad and will need to be replaced, but I wanted to double check before I order a new battery.
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You can replace your charger to solve the issue because I think the charger does not provide the right vote to the laptop, so you can replace it. Downloadtimecalculator
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Hi,
I had stick drift that was unbearable recently, nothing could get it to stop so I decided to open up the controller and clean the potentiometers myself. Once I got that done and I even replaced the white thing inside the potentiometer with one from an old PS4 controller, I’m stuck with the right stick always going up. I’m not sure what I did wrong. I definitely didn’t break the green thing that latches onto the joystick since I barely moved it and I cleaned it pretty well. What could be the cause of this issue?
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ViolentTubeGaming How did you clean it? Post some good picture of how this all looks and it'll help us to identify the " I even replaced the white thing" (wonder what you replaced there) and "the green thing"
Bilder zu einer vorhandenen Frage hinzufügen You must edit your question to add images.
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I received a new display and battery for my iPhone 8plus from the iFixit store and installed both yesterday.
I am really happy about the display but I do have an issue with the battery:
I am unable to calibrate it, because after recharging it to 100% and letting it drain, the phone turned itself off at 50%.
I connected it back on charge and it showed 50% battery.
I tried again, and again at 50% the phone turned off, but this time restart it showed a 14% battery charge, although usage shows 50%
Don't really know how to make it work.
Screenshot1: first attempt: Phone turned itself off at 50%
Screenshot2: second attempt: turned itself off at 50%, then on restart shows 11% battery
The screen has been broken for a while now and my original battery was kind of wearing off so I decided to change both.
No drops and then battery doesn’t get specifically hot (normally when recharging)
Was a pretty standard swap, I suppose
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When i turn on my pc orange light blinks,I changed the ram,hdd but nothing happened.
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Mine is a Dell pentiam 4 , it's been doing this for months and it doesn't show on the screen
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Hi ,
I am thinking to use a Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra ( http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/product... ) but as per instruction manual it corrodes the aluminum and its recommended only for copper heat sink.
Thanks for your help.
Rep: 442,1T
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First your system is so new it shouldn't need any alteration of the thermal conduction system.
The design of the MacBook Pro systems won't allow the use of this product without making major modifications of the heat sink, which in turn will make it less effective than the current design and will void your warranty. Two steps back one step forward ;-{
Basic cleaning should resolve overheating issues (dust buildup on the fan and fins). If this was an older system then it might make sense to refresh the thermal paste to the Arctic product which is what we use when needed.
I would first do some diagnostics on why your system it is overheating if that is the case. Get a good temp & fan monitoring app like: Temperature Gauge Pro and use Active Monitor to see what app or process is consuming the CPU's cycles.
More often than not, I find bad apps or a stuck process is the root issue of many heat issues, with hardware I often find the wrong HD or SSD was used in an upgrade (which shouldn't be an issue here).
Ups! Ich will meine Meinung nochmal ändern.
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