If I use the telescope handle, it works fine but when I want to vacuum the floor and I turn on the brush bar, it's extremely loud; like it's screaming.
My MacBook doesn‘t turn on after SMC reset. I've found on Apple pages that this can happen if you reset the SMC without your MacBook connected to its AC power adapter. I've also tried PRAM and SMC reset and nothing.
Black screen, no charging sound and battery picture when connecting to power supply.
I wonder what is this little yellow button on logic board for? Do any of you have a problem like me?
For this model MacBook it is IMPERATIVE that the battery disconnect button be held for 10s (until the tiny led dies) before removing the track pad flex, else you can kill the logic board.
On power back up post repair it is IMPERATIVE that the MacBook be connected to a standard USB charger (5v 0.5-1a) until it powers on before connecting to the standard MacBook charger. This is to wake up the power management circuit. Connecting directly to a standard charger after having disconnected the battery can likewise permanently damage the logic board.
Roger hill, F54 is the error code for Motor Control Overcurrent. Check the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor
F then 54 flashes when the machine/motor control detects high current for the motor module.
➔ Does basket turn freely? If not, determine cause of friction. C
➔ If basket turns freely check this test from the tech sheet:
TEST #3 Motor Circuit
This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves.
NOTE: Drain water from tub.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, page 3 and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor, page 4. The following steps assumes that this step failed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
➔If basket turns freely, go to step 4.
TEST #3 Motor Circuit
This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves.
NOTE: Drain water from tub.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, page 3 and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor, page 4. The following steps assumes that this step failed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
➔If basket turns freely, go to step 4.TEST #3 Motor Circuit
This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves.
NOTE: Drain water from tub.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, page 3 and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor, page 4. The following steps assumes that this step failed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
➔If basket turns freely, go to step 4.
TEST #3 Motor Circuit
This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves.
NOTE: Drain water from tub.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, page 3 and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor, page 4. The following steps assumes that this step failed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely.
➔If basket turns freely, go to step 4.➔If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical friction or lock up.
4. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly.
See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, page 14.
5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control.
➔If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
➔If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1.
6. With an ohmmeter, check for 16 ohms resistance at the P5 connector between pins P5-1 and P5-2, and also between pins P5-1 and P5-3. Also measure the resistance at the P10 connector between pins P10-1 and P10-7 and verify that the resistance is within the range shown in
the wiring diagram on page 15.
➔If the resistances at the connectors are correct, go to step 11.
➔If the P5 connector resistance is much higher than 16 ohms, or the P10 connector resistance is out of range, go to step 7.
7. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the drive motor area. See figure 1. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. See
figure 2.
8. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board.
➔If visual check passes, go to step 9.
➔If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover and repeat step 1.
9. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine/motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector. See figures 2 and 4, pages
10 and 16.
➔If there is continuity, go to step 11.
➔If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
10. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector.
➔If there is continuity, replace the drive motor.
➔If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
11. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair.
12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:
➔Unplug the washer or disconnect power.
➔Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
➔Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair.
Trying to figure out how to unlock the stearing wheel without the car on, we had to break the ignition and start it with a screwdriver but now the steering is locked and we can't start it to get it unlocked!
