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Rep: 1
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I have lost my BitLocker key and found an exploit where the BitLocker key can be extracted using a pi pico, I need to know where to connect it to.
I need a picture if possible as well, of the exact location.
Here's the exploit:
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Rep: 157
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So on the left side of my phone there is white lights coming on the corner and the side and on the top of the mobile at the end
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Rep: 157
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So on the left side of my phone there is white lights coming on the corner and the side and on the top of the mobile at the end
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Rep: 157
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So on the left side of my phone there is white lights coming on the corner and the side and on the top of the mobile at the end
Gaurav Sharma @gauravshar51162
Rep: 13
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Please replace the another folder and check
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How do I change the laptop lid? It is cracked and I’ve sourced a replacement and unsure how it fits in
Rep: 463,4 Tsd.
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Hi,
Here’s a link to the hardware maintenance manual for the laptop go to p.50-54 to view the necessary pre-requisite steps and then the procedure to remove the LCD unit, the webcam and the hinges. This will allow you to replace the lid cover.
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Rep: 1
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i have an electrolux fridge model wwtr1802kwe. When my compressor runs my freezer freezes to -17 or so. After it shuts off over time my freezer goes to like the fridge temp of like 35 This is with the temp set to coldest. So like a fridge and freezer at same temp. I changed the temp control thermostat. I set temp to normal after being unplugged for a few days and it started , ran and cooled normally and after a while freezer warm again. i turned knob to coldest setting and compressor started and freezer cooled ok until over time freezer now warm again . Condenser and evap fans run and coils are clean and no ice in evap coils. Could this be a starting relay controller or starting capacitor problem. The fridge is about 10 years old and i have another the same that works fine after 10 years. They are not really expensive fridges so i dont want to spend a lot to repair. any thoughts would be appreciated..
Rep: 463,4 Tsd.
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Hi @ehrmy1 ,
There may be a problem with the bi-metal thermostat (aka defrost thermostat), part #21 -system diagram.
The bi-metal thermostat is used to end the defrost cycle so that the defrost heater is turned off and the compressor and evaporator fans are turned back on again to drive the temp back down to the set temps.
The defrost cycle occurs approx once every 10 hours and lasts for about 20 minutes. What happens is that the compressor and evap fan are turned off by the defrost timer initiating the defrost cycle and the defrost heater is turned on to melt any accumulated ice from the evap unit so that it can drain away to the evap pan under the compartments.
The temp in the freezer compartment is allowed to rise to aid in the melting process but usually it doesn’t get any higher than 32 F before the thermostat operates, as you don’t want the frozen food to even begin to thaw.The temp near the thermostat is higher because it is above the heater
Here’s a video that shows how to test the thermostat which may help.
If it is determined that the defrost thermostat is the problem there are other suppliers online that may suit you better as I only linked the above supplier to show the location of the part and also the cost. Just search for wwtr1802kwe parts to get results.
If it isn’t the defrost thermostat it may be the defrost timer part #23 -shelves diagram
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Rep: 1
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My LG LW650T suddenly stopped working a few days ago, and although I've started the search to replace it as it was old, the picture quality was good and would love to repair if possible to use elsewhere and save some electrical waste.
I gave it to a local repair place who said he would do some basic checks, and reflow it, but it never worked so didn't charge me.
Turning on via RC I hear the relay turn on, the main power LED turns on the the other control LEDs cycle on/off as normal. The power LED goes off but the relay does not click off. (I had set this option years ago for power LED to turn off when wathcing TV).
There is no backlight. I pressed menu on the RC and then shone a light into panel and could not see any image. Press the RC power btton, turns off the TV, as I hear the relay click.
Searching on here and other places on the internet, I have done some testing with my limited knowledge of electronics, saving peoples time.
All PSU voltages are present that connect from PSU to Main board.
On standby all 3.5v rails are fine .
Turning on via the remote
12v rails read 11.8v
24v rails read 24.1v
3.5v rails read 3.5v as before.
I also jumped the PSU board connector- 3.5v to Power On, 3.5v to DRV On.
Applying power I hear the relay and the backlight turns on.
I get 56v at the 4 LED+ points.
Further investigation I read about TCON, and find that it is not gettting 12V from the mainboard. The fuse on the TCON board is ok.
Following some guides, I have tried to trace the 12V voltage from main board, which goes through Q505,Q506 transistors and Q507 mosfet. This is the bit thats beyond my knowledge, I dont know exactly where to follow the final 12V through to output.
I did find the 12v coming into the Panel Power section.
Out of curiosity, I found the same Q507 mosfet used by the CI card slot (UK model).
So I unsoldered it and replaced the Q507 with it. TV still does not work.
So now I am stuck, as to why the TCON is not getting 12v.
Oh btw I had removed the heatsink myself to check
Can anybody shed any light. Thank you
Rep: 463,4 Tsd.
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Hi @thedragon ,
I don’t know the answer and I don’t know if this will be a help or not but here’s a link to a section of the service manual that shows panel power in the diagrams.
There are no schematics as such in the manual only limited diagrams as to individual functions/sections of the TV.
Even the No video/no audio troubleshooting flowchart on p.56 says to replace the mainboard if the voltages check out OK on the power board. Obviously not interested in board level repairs
The manual is a bit difficult to use online as you have to keep changing the page number in the box below the page and click on Go when wanting to change pages. To download it you have to sign up to the website.
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Rep: 1
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Hello, I have followed the guide to repair my lower screen and figured I would repair the broken hinge while it was apart. I glued the casing back together but when I put the hinge back in and go to align it to put in the screws, it breaks the housing/glue again. I’m thinking my hinge is frozen and that’s what’s breaking the housing?
When I try to turn the silver piece of the hinge, I get no movement. I don’t want to try lubricating it without knowing if that’s what it needs? Or if it would be better to try to get a replacement piece.
Rep: 16 Tsd.
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Hi!
This is a common issue with the DS Lite’s I’m affraid…
The hinge should be fine, it’s most of the time always the housing which breaks at that point where yours is broken.
I always replace the housing of the console and this will fix it.
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Rep: 13
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so I found my dads old game boy dmg-01 and the screen wasn’t working, so took the system apart and saw this, is there any way I can fix it or do I need to buy a new screen. I have very little soldering skills and experience.
Rep: 16 Tsd.
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Hi!
You need to solder the connections again, and check if it is working afterwards.
If not, desolder all the connections, clean it and put some fresh solder on it again (but yea, you need soldering experience to do it…)
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Rep: 13
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My switch will charge on the dock, but it is not transferring to the screen. I tried a friend's and it worked with no problem. I think the charging/data port might be affected by the video transfer since the charging works. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Rep: 61 Tsd.
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Hi Joe,
Alisha ( @flannelist ) has been working diligently on troubleshooting guides, and I'd suggest taking a look at the No Video Out guide they've written as the place to start.
Nintendo Switch No Video Out - iFixit Troubleshooting
Other than that, it appears you're not the only person with that problem. Ethan ( @nahdoesntexist ) was having the same issue, but unfortunately did not find a solution.
SOLVED: Nintendo switch is charging, but not outputting to a TV. - Nintendo Switch - iFixit
An interesting find here was that if you take the dock connector out of the dock and plug it into the Switch it works, but once it's installed in its plastic shell it no longer works. I'm not sure if that's of any help or not.
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