There is also a software you can use. I always keep my copy here because it comes in handy for people with fiddling kids! https://www.iseepassword.com/

So today i decided to get working on the iphone 7 again. Plugged it into my computer, same old errors. I just had an incling to try again on my mac (had tried in the past), hey presto.... the phone restored nearly the whole way and then threw error 3 towards the end. Best thing was, when the phone reconnected, it had its serial number back again. I plugged it into 3u and the phone started to restore again correctly, however, now is hanging at baseband install. More digging to do!!! But thanks for the answers so far!

You can: (1) Take a receipt of proof of purchase to apple and have them remove it for you. (2) If you don't have this, give them a call and then provide them with enough proof of identity that they can at least TRY and match this ipad to you (3) Try and restore the password from a backup using forensic tools. This software costs alot of money, but there are people out there who can help. If you are unable to do the above, you have a very lovely paperweight.

Have you tried from DFU and recovery mode and also using another USB cable? I had a few of my restores fail recently and it turned out to be the USB cable. Took 3 cables to figure that out

Yes it can be replaced and they are relatively cheap to buy. Just google Lenovo Yoga 2 11" Keyboard replacement. I am unsure what is involved in actually replacing it, but I know that the part is replaceable :)

Check the vbatt line first to make sure there is no short on it. Test for heat out of a component. I do this by plugging in the battery and charge port ans then connecting to a charger. I generally find that when a pmic has gone in a samsung, an inductor gets hotter than the IC. Just use schematics to trace it and see if it does go to the IC. Most samsung service manuals suggest changing pmic with power problems. If you get stuck, let me know

So i put another chip on this morning, put the screen on again and there was less curtains. The screen was fine prior to the repair, but when i tested it on another device it had the same pattern. Put a new screen on and it was crystal clear and had touch back :)

The easiest option would be to take it to someone who does know if you are not confident in opening it. Depending on the type of laptop, it could be a mounted component, or a plug in one. I know its not the answer you are looking for, but its the most feasible in this case :)

Yes, I beleive these will affect the backlight No 1: FL24 = 240 OHM 0.2A-0.8 (0201-1) No 2: C17 = 56PF, 5%, 16V (01005) All are on the backlight line in some form. I would suggest replacing them over bridging them and if you are inexperienced, I highly recommend checking out @jessabethany. EDITED TO ADD IMAGE: