Usually that's due to a bad cord issue. Make sure you have the latest Samsung driver installed on your PC. Even in the worst of conditions Odin3 will detect the device regardless of which version of Odin3 your using. For the J7 I would suggest Odin3.13.3. You must first return to device back to official status. You may need what's called a combination or repair file. Go to https://samsungfirmware.net/category/sam...-repair-full-4-files-firmware/ and enter your devices model number, then scroll down to find the (binary) firmware. Install via Odin3. Good luck.

(1) Power your computer off completely. (2) Press the Power button. (3) Tap the F2 key for notebooks or Delete key for desktops. (4) Use the arrow keys on your keyboard to highlight Security or BIOS Security Features tab. (5) Use the arrow keys to highlight Set HDD Password or Change HDD Password depending on your model. (6) Press Enter.

It sounds like the compressor is running and it seems to be working somewhat. Even if the seals were bad it would still try to work. So it appears you may have two issues. One is the leaky seals so you’ll never seem to actually reach a freezing temp. Two, is it sounds like the thermostat is malfunctioning. It is the thermostat which regulates the temperature. If that’s not working properly you’ll have the issue you have now.

I’m not sure what Cris Stables is doing but here’s some information from someone that has worked on this difficulty. The reason you have to wrap your phone in some way to get the digitizer to respond is because of a loose connection in the ribbon that goes from the logic board to the screen. Once the ribbon comes loose from the digitizer it’s all downhill from there. You will eventually lose all touch capability and then the device is rendered temporarily useless. This is common for the iPhone 6 and 6Plus and is listed as a manufactures defect. My suggestion is to buy a new (complete) LCD and Digitizer replacement. These have to be carefully replaced and it can be very easy to damage the replacement part while installing it. So watch this You-Tube video specifically of this so you know what to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3KzmCwu... You can find a replacement on Ebay here, https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-iPhone-6s-Plus-6s-Lcd-Touch-Digitizer-Assembly-Screen-Replacement/274284894538?_trkparms=ispr%...

Commonly one would think they have a bad cord. But since you indicated you have to wiggle in the connection that would suggest that you either have some dirt or something in the connection, the end of the power cord itself was bad but I would moreso believe the connection inside the laptop was loose or broke a solder connection. Check the cord with a voltmeter while wiggling it to see if your voltage goes off and on to confirm. Inspect connection they do often collect dust. You’ll have to open up the laptop to see if you have a broken solder point or if the connection is loose.

To those of you who may be suffering from this Binary Blocked by FRP Lock mode yu may need to be aware this work is still in progress. Not all devices have been fixed at this time and there are some that we are still working on. This block usually comes from a result of trying to flash a device to Root it and/or run a different ROM. Those methods used bad or corrupt files that overloaded the Binaries that the device runs from This is the operating system of your device and why you may now be in Binary lock. My post that can be found on XDA Developers tries to offer what infomation I have found and used to get past this difficulty myself. But in most cases offers some understanding of this and how it can be fixed. If you have made it this far in your research to correct this difficulty for yourself or a friend I will offer a link to my post and bring an end to all the useless searching you may have done so far. I have more than one post about this subject in the forum which are difficult to find for people...

When you turn on your Android phone and see “Custom Binary Blocked by FRP Lock” in red color at the top of the screen, you might get confused and be clueless about it. This error usually occurs at the screen on which the phone’s logo/model number appears and it will not boot up beyond this stage. It also appears when you try to boot to the recovery which gets redirected to a screen that tells you you’re custom binary blocked. You cannot use recovery, cannot do a reset, nothing! You can access Download Mode but you can’t seem to flash firmware. Commonly most devices require a “Binary 4 FRP Unlock” file which you flash via Odin3 . Put it in the AP section and flash it. This will reset the device.

Whenever you get the "Custom Binaries Blocked by FRP Lock" in red letters at the top of the screen when you try to boot to recovery, Ben who previously answered is partially correct in saying you have flashed a(n invalid) file to the phone and the phone is preventing itself to boot since it has detected the modified file(s). This can happen when you are trying to establish Root or flash a ROM that is incorrect for your device. Typically sometimes flashing in the official firmware may help, yet sometimes it does not. When that happens what's needed is an "Unlock FRP" file that most often is specific to each device. This means you can't just use any unlock frp file and this is not the kind of FRP lock that has to do with Google Sign in stopping you from accessing the device functionality. In Binary Lock Mode the device does not load past the Logo screen. BE ADVISED! This will also fatory reset your device.

You gotta be kidding me! Installing a launcher is not updating firmware, you’re just installing an app that mimics Android version 8. There is actually a way to update firmware although the method we have found is somewhat complicated to do. The Viking Pro and the Galileo are basically inaccessable via USB cord. That is if you miss the 5 second window. To explain, if you have Windows 7 you can access the device via USB. However, Windows 10 makes it difficult. You must turn off the device plug in both the USB and the power cord. On your PC you must be in the Device Manager. When you turn on the device there is only a 5 second window that the device is detectable. At that point you right click on the device and install the MTK Drivers. I can take all of 4 or 5 pages explaining this process but it is in fact doable. The only problem is that no compatible firmware has been found to update the device. We at XDA Developers are able to root the device but are currently at a standstill with firmware.

On page 6-52 is the Idle control troubleshooting. https://www.hondaservicerepairmanual.com...-accord-service-repair-manual-pdf-90-93/ However, this reminds me of a MAP Sensor problem. Does engine speed up and slow down between 1500RPMs and 3200RPMs when ideling, If so it’s the MAP. If not it’s vaccume leaks.