Jon Ridley

were the wrong size batteries fitted at a previous date? or did a battery leak in the battery compartment? it sounds like the metal spring at the bottom of the compartment isn’t making good contact with the battery, so it may be corroded or flattened too much. You can remove the inner frame on these to inspect and clean the contacts, but it’ll likely be one of those two scenarios. I hope this helps

sounds like you might have a faulty battery. Best app you can use to get a reading of the battery health is ‘Coconut Battery’ get a screen grab of the test screen on that app, then email them direct. I’ve seen quite a few replacement (non-apple) batteries have issues like this, and it is nearly always a fault with the battery. In some cases, the battery shows a full charge capacity of over 60,000 (which is physically impossible), and it powers off after a few minutes on without mains plugged in. OWC batteries have this issue from what i’ve seen, as we sell a lot of them.

Unfortunately, you cannot access the data via the external thunderbolt port. The touch bar machines have a separate port on the logic board that allows data migration and transfers to another thunderbolt 3 machine, but you need a special tool developed by Apple to complete this transfer. Its call the ‘Customer Migration Tool’ (CDM). But they cannot be ordered on their own as a part frustratingly. An ASP will be able to do it for you, but they charge for data migrations onto a new machine. This is what the kit looks like when in operation

It is a Pentalobe screw, which is different to the torx shape. Torx has 6 sides whereas pentalobe has 5 sides. It is a P15 screw size, but we have struggled to find a source for them. It is something that Apple implemented frustratingly and these tools are not mass produced. Because this size is used solely on the VESA mounting kits, they are not mass produced like the 1.2mm pentalobe of the iPhone, or the 1.5mm pentalobe of the MacBook pro batteries. Torx wont work unless you dont mind stripping your screw head.

we dont know of any double sided tape that is strong enough to hold these into place. We use different glues depending on how damaged it is. because of the original way the mounts are fitted, with plastic lugs that press through the keyboard frame, the only way we have found we can get the alignment perfect is if we keep the majority of the plastic pegs in place. If they are even slightly misaligned, the key will not click properly, so alignment is paramount. We use either Diall ‘Glue for Plastics’ or a dab of super glue to adhere it, ensuring to only put glue on the outer edges by the original pegs and not to near the butterfly clip mounts, or the metal spring dome in the middle. I hope this helps.

all these iMac ranges have diagnostics LEDs on the board. on this range they are on the lower left of the board. If you are not getting the first LED coming on when plugging it in, then there is no trickle charge from the PSU. This either means the logic is shorted and damaged, or the PSU is dead. If the LED is coming on, and the 2nd doesn't come on when the power button is pressed, check the power button to make sure you haven't squashed it between the speaker and PSU, as its really common to damage it in that way, then check the PSU or logic. But if it was fully working beforehand, and you've fitted a non-standard CPU and proper antistatic precautions were taken during the rebuild, its likely the logic board at fault unfortunately. it is difficult to say for sure without seeing the machine, but i hope this helps.

10.13 uses a new drive structure called APFS. If it is not a recognised format, a boot drive will need to be reformatted before it will recognise as a boot source. Is the external drive for just data storage, or is it a boot drive as well? If it is just an external drive for storing files, then the old partition structure is still recognised, in which case you likely have a fault with your external drive. try it in a different machine to be sure, but you may have to look at data recovery if your hard drive is failing.

the battery function is controlled by the SMC chip on the logic board. If you are 100% certain the battery is working (ideally you'd be able to test it in a different machine to confirm this), then the logic board is at fault unfortunately. While working on the machine, were any of the chips around the battery socket knocked or damaged? even a tiny capacitor can make a difference. Also, was the machine a liquid spill originally? I'd suggest running it will all non-essential boot items disconnected, this includes things like the airport/BT board, isight, trackpad, battery indicator board, etc. see how well it responds after that. But i have seen a battery and a logic cause these symptoms before, so it really could be either, but more likely logic in this case, as it crashes when connected.

I'm not sure on the material, but from what i remember from the design announcement, water does get in, but it is an enclosed unit so water doesn't go into the rest of the device. When you finish a workout, swim or water sport, you simply select the menu option to eject the water. That causes the microphone to vibrate at a very high speed, which ejects the water in the slot.

I know its too late, but if others are using this page as a reference, here is how to remove the keycaps on these ranges. https://thebookyard.wordpress.com/2018/0...-pro-retina-2016-and-2017-keycaps/

No, but you do have to remove the airport/bluetooth antenna, which is held in with 0.8mm pentalobe screws.

So, disable auto boot on logic board (through terminal command)

Then remove bottom case

Then disconnect battery

Then remove antenna

Then remove display.

Make sure the display cables fold the correct way, as they are extremely delicate. I’ve seen people break them by twisting or pulling too hard

The 2 clips in the lower side of the photo are broken from being removed. The pick was shoved in too hard and damaged them more than likely.

This may prove helpful. It takes a gentle touch, not shoving the pick in through the side.

This applies for all butterfly clip types. So 2016 and 2017 MacBook Pro ranges, and 12” MacBook ranges from 2015-2016

https://thebookyard.wordpress.com/2018/0...

The 2 clips in the lower side of the photo are broken from being removed. The pick was shoved in too hard and damaged them more than likely.

This may prove helpful. It takes a gentle touch, not shoving the pick in through the side.

https://thebookyard.wordpress.com/2018/0...

I wouldn't recommend using HDDFanControl, because its not really a long term fix... I used it for a while, but it frustrated me that the fans didn't idle until the machine was fully booted, so if you need to do anything in single user mode, safe mode or even a boot camp or separate OSX boot up, you cannot use it. In the 2011 range, i'd recommend using this as a long term hardware solution

http://www.thebookyard.com/product.php?p...

Why has double sided tape been used in this guide instead of the SSD brackets that are designed to be screw mounted under the optical drive? there are 3 screw mounts allocated to the mounting of the SSD. With the heat that is generated by the iMac machines, i'd be worried about it losing its bond and falling down, especially using tape bought from Boots instead of high strength industrial tape...