While I've never serviced OnePlus One phones, you may have forgotten to plug in the antenna after you replaced the display. It's common to need to fiddle with the antenna connection during screen replacements in most smartphones. This replacement guide may be what you have recently performed. CTRL+F the keyword "antenna" and read what a couple of comments have to say about the antenna. Hope this helps!

The serial number doesn't come up as valid when entered on Apple's website: https://checkcoverage.apple.com So you may want to check the printed serial number again. "EMC 2555" suggests that your model is the 13" Early 2011 MacBook Pro. Again, the serial number could provide some better clarification. A quick glance on eBay shows that you're looking to spend about $350 (upwards) for a replacement logic board.

New Update!: Installed the Flextronics PSU today. Time Capsule works good now. So yeah, if your Delta PSU craps out in your Time Capsule, a Flextronics is fine too. The PSU was faulty all along.

Update: For the sake of those Googling the same problem, I guess I'll update the status of my Apple Time Capsule. My Time Capsule died again, and this time the LED is not turning back on when I plug it back in after a while (the hard drive still runs, though). So, I decided to finally dig in and see what the problem is. Looking around on Google and eBay, it seems that the reason why my problem happens is because the capacitors get blown on the PSU, and therefore need replacing. Before I ordered any "capacitor kits", I wanted to see if this was true. Disassembly: (1) I unplugged everything from the TC, and let it sit for about 24 hours (this discharges capacitors). (2) Flipped the TC over, and took a heat gun (on low) to loosen up the adhesive under it. (3) Starting at the corner, carefully peeled the rubber base off. Applied extra heat as necessary. (4) Unscrewed all the screws holding the metal plate. (5) Unplugged the logic board power connector, SATA cable, SATA power, and removed thermal sensor on HDD...

A quick look at eBay shows that replacement screens/digitizers/LCDs cost upwards of a third of what you spent on the tablet. Kinda pricey IMO. If the tablet means a whole lot to you, then by all means, get yourself a replacement screen! To me, it's just another one of the zillion Android tablets models out there. I'd just sell it online to someone willing to pay that much to replace the screen, and find another Android tablet. It's really up to you... this is just my two cents.

For the English readers, I think he's asking if there is a guide to replace the touch screen on a "Doogee Valencia Y100 Pro" phone. Unfortunately, there's currently no guides to repair "Doogee" phones on this site. According to the reviews here, it seems the LCD and digitizer are fused together, and there's not a lot of success with separating with a heat gun. You're looking to replace the whole display assembly (LCD+Digitizer) for an easier repair. Judging by the included "guitar pick" tools and suction cup included with that replacement part, it seems you have to separate the display assembly with the picks between the screen and housing. Then, it must be lifted off with the suction cup. It's probably not a lot of help with me eyeballing this problem, especially not answering in his language, but I hope it guides somebody in the right direction.

What kind of TV are you plugging the N64 into? I do recall a similar problem where the PS1 is unable to play on newer TV sets because they don't support the low resolutions of the game. We're talking sub-240p analog resolutions here.

I believe "Revision B" just simply included a MagSafe-to-MagSafe2 adaptor. This revision came out back in 2012 when Apple released the first Retina MacBook Pro, which had the MagSafe2 port.

The 30-inch Cinema HD Display just accepts a standard DVI-D connection for video, so there should be no drivers you necessarily need to download. Is there some special function you are trying to do that would require a driver? I plugged it into my Windows desktop to try a game out at its 2560x1600 resolution, and it worked like any other monitor.

The third diagnostic light should signify if the logic board is properly communicating with the GPU. The fourth tells if the logic board is communicating with the LCD. Since you are getting no video from either the internal display or external monitor, the third light is blinking, and the computer refuses to boot, it can only be deducted that the graphics card will likely need to be replaced, as your current one seems to have failed.