Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch eines defekten Mikrofons gezeigt.

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein Gerät herunter. Schließe das Display und lege es umgekehrt auf eine weiche Oberfläche.

    • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:

      • Zwei 9 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

      • Acht 2,6 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Der Spezialschraubenzieher, der zum Entfernen der zehn 5-Punkt Pentalobe Schrauben benötigt wird, ist hier erhältlich.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Antwort

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Antwort

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwort

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwort

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwort

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwort

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwort

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwort

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwort

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwort

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwort

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwort

  1. Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.
    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwort

    • Ziehe die Plastiklasche, die am Stecker des Akkus hängt, in Richtung der vorderen Ecke des MacBooks, um den Akku vom Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Der Stecker darf nicht nach oben gezogen werden, während du ihn vom Anschluss trennst.

    The guide says: "Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board", but the battery model that I was replacing did not have a clear plastic pull tab at all...

    The battery model shown in this guide is: A1405

    I was installing battery model: A1406

    A1406 has the following connector:

    Top:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    Bottom:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    By looking at the bottom of the new battery I saw how it could be removed. Simply by a gentle upward movement. I very, very carefully nudged it a bit upwards using a screwdriver on the left and right side, as shown here:

    http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4122/...

    It came out fairly easy, luckily!

    (And yes, I also cleaned up this MacBook before closing it again. It was a bit hairy in a literal way. Electronics and pets is not the best combination. ;-) )

    This was a great guide!

    wil - Antwort

    I think you may have been reading the wrong guide by mistake.

    Looking at the various MacBook Air battery replacement guides, all of the 13" models show the connector depicted in this guide. All of the 11" models (e.g. MacBook Air 11" Mitte 2012 Akku austauschen) show a connector like the one in your photos.

    shamino -

    The 13 inch's tab is a bit more difficult to reinstall than uninstall. Delicate care is needed.

    Andrew Ruble - Antwort

    I agree with Andrew and Joes. I also found that the trickiest part was to pull the tap back when reinstalling the new battery. A special hint at this point in the guide would be nice.

    Alexander Kluge -

    This is the tricky part if there is one. Just pull back towards the battery and not up.

    Joe Wasser - Antwort

    hello there, My macbook air does not recognize a battery connected, anymore.

    It looks like I damaged the connectors while trying to connect the battery back, although it does not look damaged. I must say, I tried a little force to squeeze the connector in the middle instead of the edge. May have damaged the connector ?

    Once, after this, the MBA recognized my battery when pressed the connectors edge to the pins on the board. However, this did not last long and my MBA does not recognize the battery anymore. Any solutions on how I can fix this ? Please help.

    Samy Palaniappan - Antwort

    Had the same issue where my Macbook did not recognize the battery on the first try. I opened it back up and re-seated the connector and that fixed the problem. That particular connector does not seem to have a positive engagement. It does not appear to seat all the way down. It’s charging now and I hope it will remain stable and connected as I travel.

    Paul Tornatta - Antwort

    When we were putting the new battery in, it was easier to fit the tab back on and then fit the battery in place. I had someone helping me and they held the new battery up whilst I pushed the tab in. It was quite tight, and I ended up easing it in with the tip of a screwdriver on each edge in turn.

    Shimbo - Antwort

    The plastic pull tab broke off with the tiny tug I gave it (Mid-2011 Air). I just unscrewed the battery and carefully pulled out the connector when I had the extra room.

    Sam Kernot - Antwort

    for my 11inch mac air [mid 2011] the connecter is connected vertically and not horizontally - so you need to pull up, not back. thanks to Will for the links to the illustrations that made that clear. Getting the connecter to release was the hardest part of the job - otherwise, it was just removing screws.

    Jim Kemper - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, die den Akku am Gehäuse befestigen:

      • Drei 6,3 mm Torx T5 Schrauben

      • Zwei 2,4 mm Torx T5 Schrauben

    Les couleurs ne me semblent pas justes.

    drixe - Antwort

    The screw heads are made of a soft butter like chinese metal and will easily get f*cked up. take care when reinstalling to not mess them up.

    John Hamilton - Antwort

    les couleur sont justes; die rot markierten Schrauben oben und mitte sind länger als die unteren.

    I had used the P5 driver there, too (just gently put the bit into the screws and see that’ll fit.

    jmhoraze - Antwort

    The battery doesn’t actually need to come out for this repair if you’re confident working in tight spaces.

    jfollowskemp - Antwort

  2. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12.
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12.
    • Achte darauf, den Akku nicht zu quetschen und die vier Polymer-Zellen möglichst nicht zu berühren.

    • Hebe den Akku von der Seite des Logic Boards aus an und entferne ihn vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Wenn ein dünner Plastikfilm auf deinem Ersatzakku aufgeklebt ist, dann entferne diesen nicht vor dem Einbau des Akkus. Er ist festgeklebt und schützt den Akkupack im Inneren des MacBook.

    Quick note about the replacement battery, if you bought from iFixit and the battery sections have a thin film over them, peel them off. They're to protect the battery during transit, and if you leave them on they might cause heating issues.

    Here is a link to my question about it: Replacement battery has thin film on each section do I need to remove? plus, I just got an email from iFixit customer support that it needs to be removed.

    dpchoung - Antwort

    thank you for the help! I installed the proper batt properly following the advice from here;-) Mahalo from Hawaii-

    zzzikaikazzz - Antwort

    Does replacement battery for Macbook Air 13" Mid 2012 works with Mac OS Sierra 10.12.3 and up?

    Benny Forsberg - Antwort

    I installed the battery (OEM Apple) for the Mac Air 2013 throygh 2015:

    1. the battery for the Mac Air 2012 throygh 2015 was stated to may have compatibility problems;

    2. lesser price;

    no problems with macOS Sierra.

    jmhoraze - Antwort

    Replaced it in no time! Thank you and cheers from Slovenia (that’s the one who beat you in hockey few days ago

    Mark Ogner - Antwort

    iFixit should really clarify whether the film covering each of the battery packs should or should not be removed. Based on dpchoung’s comment I removed this film. It was not obvious or easy to remove and as I was doing it I realized that maybe this was not a good idea as I was concerned the packs might be damaged in the removal process. I suspect most people don’t bother with this film. Later, clicking on the forum exchange I see conflicting advice. My guess is that the film provides added protection and has minimal impact on thermal issues. I am sorry I went through the bother of removing the film and hope no damage was done.

    Mark Young - Antwort

    Ich hab’ gelesen, dass neu eingebaute Batterien kalibriert werden müssen: https://www.newertech.com/batteries/powe...

    hjsalchow - Antwort

    Step 1 has an error, at least for me. I believe the 10 pentalobe screws are size P4, not P5. My Wiha P5 pentalobe screwdriver was too big for the screws, but my smaller P4 pentalobe screwdriver worked fine.

    BrianM - Antwort

    Great here. Replacement was a breeze. Thanks guys.

    DanielFerrer - Antwort

    • Hebele den Stecker am Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem I/O Board.

    • Hebele unter den Drähten.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fädle das Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher aus der Halteklammer auf dem I/O Board.

    This photograph does not match the model. The microphone has a flat ribbon cable, not a round one.

    Goth70 Fuzed - Antwort

    Also, the wire has no retaining clip in this model.

    Goth70 Fuzed - Antwort

    • Löse den linken Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zum oberen Gehäuse.

    • Entferne den linken Lautsprecher aus dem oberen Gehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebele den Mikrofonstecker mit der Kante des Spudgers hoch und aus dem Anschluss auf dem I/O Board.

    In my own MacBook Air 13" mid-2012 A1466, the microphone appears like that of the part offered for sale at the top of the page, not this image.

    Goth70 Fuzed - Antwort

    In this model, the the I/O board cable must also be removed to gain access to the microphone connector. See the upper case replacement guide for removing this part.

    Goth70 Fuzed - Antwort

    DO NOT PULL UP ON THE CONNECTOR. Lift the flap and pull parallel to the board.

    jfollowskemp - Antwort

    • Hebele das Mikrofon mit der Spudgerspitze aus der Klebeverbindung zur linken Seite des oberen Gehäuses.

    • Entferne das Mikrofon vom oberen Gehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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There is a not 2012 MBA entrails on the photos. Maybe a newer MBA (double mic).

Surgie - Antwort

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