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Einleitung

Anhand dieser Anleitung kannst du den rechten Lautsprecher auswechseln.

Die Anleitung bezieht sich auf den Lautsprecher, der sich im Normalbetrieb des Notebooks rechts befindet. Während der Reparatur wird dieser sich meistens links befinden, da wir den Laptop umdrehen.

    • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben, die den Boden des Gehäuses befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Acht 3 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Denke während dieser Reparatur daran, sich die Positionen der Schrauben zu merken und gehe sicher, dass jede Schraube später wieder an der richtigen Stelle ist, damit dein Gerät nicht kaputt geht.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Antwort

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Antwort

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Antwort

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Antwort

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Antwort

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Antwort

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Antwort

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Antwort

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - Antwort

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - Antwort

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - Antwort

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - Antwort

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Antwort

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Antwort

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Antwort

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Antwort

  1. Gehe mit deinen Fingern zwischen das obere und das untere Gehäuse.
    • Gehe mit deinen Fingern zwischen das obere und das untere Gehäuse.

    • Hebe die untere Gehäuseabdeckung vorsichtig vom Gerät ab.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Antwort

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Antwort

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - Antwort

  2. Der Gehäuseboden ist durch zwei Steckverbindungen in dessen Mitte mit dem Gerät verbunden. Drücke während des Zusammenbauens vorsichtig auf die Mitte des Gehäusebodens, um die Steckverbindungen wiederherzustellen.
    • Der Gehäuseboden ist durch zwei Steckverbindungen in dessen Mitte mit dem Gerät verbunden.

    • Drücke während des Zusammenbauens vorsichtig auf die Mitte des Gehäusebodens, um die Steckverbindungen wiederherzustellen.

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Antwort

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Antwort

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Antwort

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - Antwort

  3. Falls nötig, entferne die Plastikabdeckung vom Akkuanschluss.
    • Falls nötig, entferne die Plastikabdeckung vom Akkuanschluss.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Antwort

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - Antwort

  4. Trenne den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Achte darauf, nur den Stecker und nicht den Sockel anzuheben. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr das Logic Board irreparabel zu beschädigen.
    • Trenne den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte darauf, nur den Stecker und nicht den Sockel anzuheben. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr das Logic Board irreparabel zu beschädigen.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Antwort

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Antwort

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Antwort

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Antwort

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Antwort

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - Antwort

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - Antwort

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - Antwort

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Antwort

  5. Biege den Akkustecker etwas zur Seite, um während der Reparatur einen versehentlichen Kontakt mit dem Anschluss zu verhindern.
    • Biege den Akkustecker etwas zur Seite, um während der Reparatur einen versehentlichen Kontakt mit dem Anschluss zu verhindern.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Antwort

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Antwort

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Antwort

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Antwort

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

  6. Entferne die beiden 2,1 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung des E/O Board Kabels am Logic Board befestigt ist.
    • Entferne die beiden 2,1 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung des E/O Board Kabels am Logic Board befestigt ist.

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - Antwort

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - Antwort

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - Antwort

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - Antwort

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - Antwort

  7. Nimm die Abdeckung des E/A Board Kabels mit einer Pinzette aus dem MacBook heraus.
    • Nimm die Abdeckung des E/A Board Kabels mit einer Pinzette aus dem MacBook heraus.

  8. Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun den E/A Board Anschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herausholen. Achte darauf, dass du den Hebel auch wirklich nur am E/A Board Kabel ansetzt und nicht an der Buchse selbst, denn sonst könnte dein Logic Board beschädigt werden.
    • Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun den E/A Board Anschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herausholen.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Hebel auch wirklich nur am E/A Board Kabel ansetzt und nicht an der Buchse selbst, denn sonst könnte dein Logic Board beschädigt werden.

  9. Hebe das Ende des E/A Board Kabels nach oben, das mit dem Logic Board verbunden war und biege es um, so dass es nicht mehr im Weg ist. Um Schäden am Kabel zu vermeiden, solltest du es nur am E/A Board Ende biegen, wo sich ein Falz befindet.
    • Hebe das Ende des E/A Board Kabels nach oben, das mit dem Logic Board verbunden war und biege es um, so dass es nicht mehr im Weg ist.

    • Um Schäden am Kabel zu vermeiden, solltest du es nur am E/A Board Ende biegen, wo sich ein Falz befindet.

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - Antwort

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - Antwort

  10. Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus. Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
    • Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - Antwort

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - Antwort

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - Antwort

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - Antwort

  11. Ziehe das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus. Ziehe das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus. Ziehe das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
    • Ziehe das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

  12. Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Eine 5,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 6,5 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 3,8 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

  13. Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse. Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse. Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.
    • Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

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Easy to follow guide! completed the installation within half an hour. Thanks guys :)

Jeevan Kumar - Antwort

Parfait. Comptez 30 min au total. Merci

Jacques Krief - Antwort

I bought all the suggested tools and parts and changed both the left and the right speaker on my wifes Mac Book Pro in 30 minutes. Fantastic guide and site for fixing things. I will come back to this site in the future for DIY repairs. Thank you.

Jodel Manning - Antwort

On point, simple and complete, thanks

sintobeanrv - Antwort

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