Werkzeuge
Ersatzteile
Kein Ersatzteil erforderlich.
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Entferne die folgenden P5-Pentalobe-Schrauben, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:
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Acht 3,0 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben
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Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil von der Kante aus, die der Kupplungsabdeckung am nächsten liegt, vom MacBook Pro ab.
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Lege das Gehäuseunterteil beiseite.
Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing
I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.
Tim Peat -
I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.
This is a "PC" habit.
On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.
I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).
Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).
Hey,
Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..
Regards
This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.
If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.
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Ziehe den Warnaufkleber über dem Akkuanschluss ab.
Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?
Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.
67b5ebab Good question !
Why is this necessary ?
This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.
One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.
Hope that helps!!
~the more you know~
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Heble den Akkuanschluss mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Biege die Akkukabel nach hinten und aus dem Weg, so dass der Akkuanschluss nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Kontakt kommt.
I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!
So no need basically to unscrew all the mac
Bert0ld0 -
Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.
REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.
I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.
Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.
Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.
I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:
1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.
2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.
3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide
4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath
5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries
(continued)
6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.
8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.
Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.
Worked perfectly.
Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.
i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.
Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.
One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !
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Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du die drei AirPort-Antennenkabel aus ihren Buchsen auf dem AirPort-Board herausziehen.
will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.
Yes, this voids your warranty.
If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.
These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.
If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.
lamajr -
I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!
is there a way to replace the antenna?
unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.
Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!
Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.
Jer -
Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!
Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.
Jer -
@tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)
IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.
THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.
There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:
1)The rubber heat sink cover
2 The AirPort/Camera cables
3)The IO board cable
All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?
Itai -
These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.
ChrisMBP -
travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!
I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!
Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.
Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.
the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.
tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble
Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.
I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!
Achilles -
Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.
If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.
Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?
Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.
Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.
I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.
I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…
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Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Kamerakabels aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu schieben.
Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.
Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.
the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?
Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.
Push on the little wings, from right to left.
This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables
This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?
It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.
The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.
The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.
Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.
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Stecke das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter die Gummiummantelung des Kühlkörpers des rechten Lüfters.
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Fahre mit dem Spudger unter der gesamten Länge der Ummantelung entlang, um den Kleber zu lösen.
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Hebe die Ummantelung an und klappe sie zurück, so dass du an die Kabel darunter herankommst.
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Ziehe die AirPort / Kamera Kabel mit den Fingern nach oben vom Lüfter ab.
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Fädle die Kabel vorsichtig aus ihrer Kunststoffführung.
It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.
Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?
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Heble den Stecker des I/O-Boards mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus. Beim Zusammenbau zuerst dieses Ende verbinden, da es sich nicht biegt.
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Entferne auf die gleiche Weise den I/O-Board-Stecker von seiner Buchse auf dem I/O-Board.
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Entferne das I/O-Board Kabel vom MacBook Pro.
Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.
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Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die AirPort Karte am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Greife die AirPort Karte an den dünnen Seiten und ziehe sie parallel zum Logic Board, um sie aus dem MacBook Pro zu entfernen.
There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.
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Klappe die Halteklappe an der rechten ZIF-Buchse des Ventilator-Flachbandkabels mit der Spitze eines Spudgers nach oben.
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Platziere ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug ganz oben unter das rechte Lüfterkabel und schiebe es dann nach unten, um das Kabel vom Logic Board zu lösen.
I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.
The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.
ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lüfter am Logic Board befestigt ist:
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Eine 4,4 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 3,9 mm T5 Torx Breitkopfschraube
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Eine 5,0 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit 2 mm Zapfen
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Stecke das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter die Gummiummantelung des Kühlkörpers des linken Lüfters, damit du sie herunternehmen kannst.
This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?
Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?
I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lüfter am Logic Board befestigt ist:
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Eine 4,4 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 5,0 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit 2 mm Zapfen
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Eine 3,9 mm T5 Torx Breitkopfschraube
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One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?
best regards,
Seth
“Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).
seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"
T4 seems to have worked for me
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Klappe die Halteklappe an der rechten ZIF-Buchse des Ventilator-Flachbandkabels mit der Spitze eines Spudgers nach oben.
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Platziere ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug ganz oben unter das rechte Lüfterkabel und schiebe es dann nach unten, um das Kabel vom Logic Board zu lösen.
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Hebe den linken Lüfter aus dem Gerät.
a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?
and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.
I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?
be nice, silly
Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.
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Entferne die einzelne 3,1 mm T5 Torx-Schraube, mit der die SSD am Logic Board befestigt ist.
When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.
So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.
Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?
I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.
The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.
The screw for the SSD is Torx.
Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.
(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)
For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?
The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*
I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.
OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).
Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.
(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)
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Hebe die rechte Seite der SSD leicht an und schiebe sie aus ihrer Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des I/O-Board Datenkabels nach oben zu klappen und es Richtung Akku zu drehen.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Datenkabel des I/O-Boards aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.
This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better
I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.
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Entferne die beiden 3,1 mm T5 Torx-Schrauben, mit denen das I/O Board am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Hebe das I/O Board vorsichtig an und entferne es aus dem unteren Gehäuse.
it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.
Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.
It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.
i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den linken Lautsprecheranschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den rechten Lautsprecheranschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.
At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!
Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.
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Ziehe das Klebeband ab, das den Stecker des Tastatur-Flachbandkabels abdeckt.
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Klappe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers die Halteklappe an der ZIF-Buchse des Tastatur-Flachbandkabels nach oben.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Tastatur-Flachbandkabel aus der Buchse zu ziehen.
I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy
The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Anschluss des Trackpad-Flachbandkabels von seiner Buchse zu hebeln.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Anschluss für die Hintergrundbeleuchtung der Tastatur von seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board nach oben abzuziehen.
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Klappe mit der Spitze eines Spudgers oder mit deinem Fingernagel die Halteklappe an der ZIF-Buchse des Mikrofon-Flachbandkabels nach oben.
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Ziehe das Mikrofon-Flachbandkabel aus seiner Buchse.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Display Datenkabels zu lösen und drehe es in Richtung des DC-In.
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Ziehe das Display Datenkabel aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um vorsichtig die Gummikappe der Linsenschraube in der Nähe des MagSafe 2-Steckers abzuhebeln.
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Entferne die folgenden sechs Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 3,1 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 2,5 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine silberne 5,5 mm T5 Torx Linsenschraube
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Zwei 5,7 mm T5 Torx Schrauben
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Eine silberne 3,8 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Hebe das Logic Board an der Seite an, die dem Akku am nächsten liegt und drehe es nach oben.
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Drücke den MagSafe 2-Stecker vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seiner Buchse auf der Unterseite des Logic Boards.
I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.
Completely agree. I just did the same.
ChrisMBP -
Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.
Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.
Agree, just did the same. It is safer.
100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.
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Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vom MacBook Pro.
A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.
Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them
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Setze die Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeuges unter das obere Mikrofon.
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Schiebe die Klinge des Plastiköffnungswerkzeuges entlang der Unterseite des oberen Mikrofons, um den Kleber zu lösen.
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Löse den Kleber unter dem unteren Mikrofons in derselben Art und Weise.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten der Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten der Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:
100%
Annika Faelker hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›
To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?
lantzero - Antwort
In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver
Christian Mohr -
The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)
Sam Lionheart -
Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.
Mike -
will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?
drscottgreenwell - Antwort
Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit
cloughenough -
This works for rMBP 2012 late
iyeori -
Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!
didierma - Antwort
If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late
iyeori - Antwort
Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.
Epifanio - Antwort
It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!
floyd - Antwort
Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.
Emilio Mejia - Antwort
I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!
Alvaro Suarez - Antwort
Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!
Jose David Valle -
Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything
Bert0ld0 -
Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6
brian2burnett - Antwort
Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017
Walt Goede - Antwort
Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.
So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..
Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks
/JD
Jakob Dahlin - Antwort
Not sure if this has been listed.
PRO TIPS from a non-pro:
1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.
2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…
3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).
4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!
5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!
erin - Antwort
Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?
Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…
Michael Ferenduros - Antwort
So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.
Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.
The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.
Your milage may vary, obviously.
Michael Ferenduros -