Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Logic Boards gezeigt.

  1. Entferne die 10 Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.
    • Entferne die 10 Schrauben, die das obere und das untere Gehäuse zusammenhalten.

      • Drei 13,5 mm (14,1 mm) Kreuzschlitz Schrauben.

      • Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben.

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - Antwort

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - Antwort

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:

    http://www.sciplus.com/p/50-114-CLEAR-PL...

    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - Antwort

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - Antwort

    Hi,

    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -

    MacBookPro8,2

    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - Antwort

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - Antwort

    for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

    mindful - Antwort

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.

    Thanks!

    Marcos - Antwort

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - Antwort

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - Antwort

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .

    SOME TRICKS -

    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - Antwort

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

    Danno - Antwort

    Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

    If so, what is the best way to do this?

    Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

    Sibyl Smith - Antwort

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - Antwort

  2. Hebe das untere Gehäuse nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an, damit sich die beiden Clips lösen, die es mit dem oberen Gehäuse verbinden.
    • Hebe das untere Gehäuse nahe beim Lüfter mit beiden Händen an, damit sich die beiden Clips lösen, die es mit dem oberen Gehäuse verbinden.

    • Entferne das untere Gehäuse und lege es zur Seite.

    After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

    Januar Wiyogo - Antwort

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - Antwort

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - Antwort

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - Antwort

    • Bei bestimmten Reparaturen (z.B. der Festplatte) ist es zwar nicht nötig den Akku zu trennen, es verhindert aber einen versehentlichen Kurzschluss von elektronischen Bauteilen auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du den Akku nicht abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein, da eben manche Komponenten noch unter Spannung stehen können.

    • Benutze die Kante eins Spudgers um den Akkustecker nach oben aus seinem Anschluss zu hebeln.

    • Es ist hilfreich, an den beiden kurzen Seiten des Steckers zu hebeln, um ihn so schrittweise aus seinem Anschluss herauszulösen.

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - Antwort

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - Antwort

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - Antwort

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.

    Patrick.

    Patrick Demaret - Antwort

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - Antwort

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - Antwort

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

    r1m111 - Antwort

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - Antwort

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - Antwort

    • Biege das Akkukabel leicht von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board weg, damit es sich nicht versehentlich wieder selbst verbindet, während du arbeitest.

    Move battery removal step to this point in upper case replacement guide.

    Paul Palm - Antwort

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - Antwort

    • Entferne die beiden 7,4 mm TriPoint-Schrauben, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse festhalten.

    Where can I suggest that iFixit add a cross-referenced note/warning when purchasing a replacement battery (or other parts that require odd tools) that you also need to purchase yet another special-purpose *&$%#(%@ screwdriver, "because Apple"!!

    I had to wait for weeks to find time to complete this repair, and now have to wait weeks longer for another chance.

    Note to self: read the entire guide before purchasing, AND before starting the repair, AND while you're doing the repair...

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    I preferred to use the Y0 for these screws, the Y1 felt too big for the screws they used with my battery.

    Aschwin de Hoog - Antwort

    Are these Tri-wing or Tri-tip? Perhaps there isn't a difference but I've seen references to both.

    Robert Hammett - Antwort

    I found that I could not remove the Tri-Wing screws with the guide recommended Y1 bit. It was way too large and instantly started stripping the screw. The Y0 bit fits perfectly. I believe the guide incorrectly recommends the Y1. There is also a 3rd Tri-Wing screw in the top left corner of the batters (same orientation as the guide) located UNDER a small black plastic flap.

    Vincent Glon - Antwort

    For Logic board removal, I did not find it necessary to remove the 3 tri-point screws or the battery, the board came out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - Antwort

    I did not need to remove the tri-wing screws or the battery to remove the Logic board on my MBP. The logic board comes right out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - Antwort

    • Ziehe vorsichtig den Warnaufkleber vom oberen Gehäuse zwischen Akku und optischem Laufwerk ab, um eine weitere TriPoint-Schraube freizulegen.

    • Entferne die letzte 7,4 mm Y0 TriPoint-Schraube, die den Akku am Gehäuse hält.

    • Entferne nicht den Aufkleber auf dem Akku selbst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Den Akku kannst du mit Hilfe der Plastiklasche vom Gehäuse entfernen.

    Ridiculously simple process to replace the Mac’s battery. iFixit replacement process was completely accurate. I used the Egoway battery which is highly-rated: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F73...

    Brian Queen - Antwort

    YOU SHOULD ALSO INCLUDE: power system recalibration and recharging sequence

    usserje - Antwort

    Instructions for recalibrating the power system and recharging sequence ^_^ (skip forward to 3:30):

    https://youtu.be/qZSD_8ippnk

    Erik Osterlund - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, die den linken Lüfter am Logic Board befestigen:

      • Zwei 3,5 mm T6 Torx Schrauben.

      • Eine 4,2 mm T6 Torx Schraube.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des linken Lüfters vom Logic Board zu entfernen.

    • Es ist hilfreich, den Spudger unterhalb der Lüfterkabel etwas um seine Achse zu drehen, um den Stecker zu lösen.

    • Der Lüfteranschluss und der Stecker sind im zweiten und dritten Bild sehen. Achte darauf, nicht den Anschluss vom Logic Board zu brechen, wenn du den Spudger benutzt, um den Stecker gerade nach oben aus dem Anschluss zu heben.

      • Das Layout des Logic Boards im zweiten Bild kann bei deinem Gerät ein wenig anders aussehen, aber der Lüfteranschluss ist derselbe.

    Mine had all three screws the same length (3.5 mm I believe)

    Rusty Simmons - Antwort

    • Hebe den linken Lüfter aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Verbinder des rechten Ventilators aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Am besten geht das, indem du den Spudger unter den Drähten des Ventilatorkabels ansetzt und dann entlang seiner Achse verdrehst, um den Verbinder zu lösen.

    Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

    maccentric - Antwort

    Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

    Sam - Antwort

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln!
    Satte 12 € Rabatt auf jeden Einkauf ab 50 €. Einfach den Code FIXMAS12 am Ende deines Bestellvorgangs eingeben
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln!
    Satte 12 € Rabatt auf jeden Einkauf ab 50 €. Einfach den Code FIXMAS12 am Ende deines Bestellvorgangs eingeben
    • Entferne die drei 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) Torx T6 Schrauben, die den rechten Ventilator am Logic Board befestigen.

    • Hebe den rechten Ventilator aus seiner Öffnung im Logic Board.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Ziehe das Kamerakabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Hebe das Kabel dabei nicht senkrecht hoch. Wenn du das tust kannst du Kabel und Logic Board beschädigen. Ziehe das Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards heraus.

    One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

    Alex Nevell - Antwort

    • Hebe den Airport/Bluetooth Verbinder mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….

    Vincent Mahler - Antwort

    • Hebe den Verbinder zum optischen Laufwerk mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

    nicholasmcroberts - Antwort

    • Löse das Kabel zur Festplatte/IR Sensor aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board, indem du unter dem Verbinder anhebst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den Verbinder des Subwoofers/rechten Lautsprechers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Setze zum Hebeln unter den Drähten an.

    Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

    To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

    afoster - Antwort

    There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

    Alex Grayson - Antwort

    • Die Abdeckung über dem Tastatur/Trackpadkabel ist mit zwei 1,5 mm (1,2 mm) Kreuzschlitzschrauben auf dem Logic Board befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.

    • Hebe die Abdeckung ab und lege sie zur Seite.

    Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

    That works too however..

    dmitri - Antwort

    I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

    Dave Bruhn - Antwort

    I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

    ozhan - Antwort

    Can I get it work with PH#00?

    Utsav Dusad - Antwort

    I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

    Sarah Dunlap - Antwort

    @Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

    bill borez - Antwort

    • Heble den Verbinder zum Trackpad mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Klappe die Halteklappe des ZIF Verbinders des Tastaturflachbandkabels mit dem Fingernagel hoch.

    • Klappe nur die scharnierartige Klappe hoch, keinesfalls den Sockel selbst.

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel der Tastatur mit der Spitze des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel.

    Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

    Jim - Antwort

    Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…

    Joshua Vande Walle -

    I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

    CJ Attias - Antwort

    I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

    robertemcgee -

    getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

    shmianco - Antwort

    REINSERTING THIS CABLE WAS ABSOLUTELY THE MOST DIFFICULT STEP IN THIS WHOLE PROCESS!

    Key points:

    •Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

    •The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

    •Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

    •It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

    Kyle - Antwort

    It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

    tgphotosales - Antwort

    I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    wizzart - Antwort

    Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

    disneyfunteacher -

    Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

    Gareth Aschenbrenner -

    When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

    kevicoll409 -

    Thanks a lot! Great video

    Sean Kandel -

    I needed that video. Thanks

    Justin Brisotto -

    Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

    Peter Newman - Antwort

    When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

    Brian Blair - Antwort

    I had trouble getting the cable out (let alone back in!) In the end, sliding a toothpick in behind the ribbon and gently pulling from both sides of the toothpick did the trick.

    Kal - Antwort

    On reassembly, I realise why it was so hard to get out—I had not lifted the retaining flap, thinking they just meant the flap of tape. Not well illustrated in the photo. The retaining flap is the long bit of plastic opposite the ribbon (closer to the fans).

    Kal - Antwort

    I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?

    Anthony Eliseo - Antwort

    The most difficult part was putting it back in. I read the comments and I used a piece of tape to help push it back in. Make sure it’s all the way in or else you wont be able to turn your mac on. About a hairline of the grooves were

    Cristina - Antwort

    The comment Kal left about lifting the retaining flap is key during reassembly!

    I, too, totally missed that there is a plastic “bar” covering the end of the pins. Without that lifted up, it’s %#*@ near impossible to push the connector in since the flap/bar is putting pressure downwards.

    With the retaining flap down, it comes out without too much effort. But putting it back in is a whole different story. Be sure to lift it up!

    Justin Blecher - Antwort

    • Löse den Verbinder der Akkuanzeige mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fasse die Zuglasche aus Kunststoff, die an der Sicherung des Displaykabels befestigt ist, und drehe sie in Richtung der Seite mit der Stromeingangsbuchse am Computer.

    • Ziehe das Displaykabel aus seinem Sockel auf deLogic Board.

    • Ziehe das Kabel nicht hoch, da der Sockel sehr empfindlich ist. Ziehe parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

    The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

    This is the hardest step IMO

    brbulic - Antwort

    Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

    mail - Antwort

    this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

    shmianco - Antwort

    I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

    Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

    Kyle - Antwort

    "Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

    Bonachera - Antwort

    I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

    Justin Brisotto - Antwort

    Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

    Bruce Rayner - Antwort

    This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!

    Balazs Gobel - Antwort

    This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.

    xtophr - Antwort

    I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.

    Kal - Antwort

    • Klappe die Halteklappe am ZIF Anschluss des Flachbandkabels der Tastaturbeleuchtung mit der Spitze des Spudgers hoch.

    • Achte darauf, dass du wirklich nur die scharnierartige Klappe, nicht den Sockel selbst hochklappst.

    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel der Tastaturbeleuchtung aus seinem Sockel.

    Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

    Allen Jenkins - Antwort

    This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

    Frank Wilson - Antwort

    • Drehe folgende neun Schrauben heraus:

      • Sieben 3,4 mm (3,1 mm) T6 Torx Schrauben auf dem Logic Board

      • Zwei 8 mm T6 Torx Schrauben auf dem DC-In Board

    Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    • Hebe die ganze Einheit mit dem Logic Board vorsichtig auf der linken Seite an und aus dem Gehäuse heraus. Achte dabei darauf, dass sich das Kabel des optischen Laufwerks und die I/O Ports nicht verfangen.

    • Trenne falls nötig das Mikrofon mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom oberen Gehäuse.

    • Ziehe die Seite des Logic Boards mit den I/O Ports seitlich vom Gehäuse weg und entferne die ganze Logic Board Einheit.

    I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

    maccentric - Antwort

    The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

    Joseph Sikorski - Antwort

    The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

    robk64 - Antwort

    Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

    Justin Brisotto -

    thx graciaaaas :)

    driveremule -

    When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

    Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

    Greg - Antwort

    Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

    kevicoll409 - Antwort

    If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

    Jereme Shaver - Antwort

    I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

    Mazo - Antwort

    I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

    Auldz Buss - Antwort

    Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

    Sarah Ybarra - Antwort

    This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.

    jruedas - Antwort

    Hallelujah! There is a God!…Been sitting here for the past 2 hours, eyeballing the rubber whatever it is ”My New Moto”..When I’m stuck…”READ THE COMMENTS!…Thanks to all of you!!!!

    taleahebey - Antwort

    • Lege das Logic Board auf eine weiche ebene Unterlage mit dem Kühlkörper nach oben.

    • Drehe die sechs Kreuzschlitzschrauben #1 heraus, die den Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigen.

    • Achte auf die kleinen Federn unter jeder Schraube und verliere sie nicht.

    My MacBook Pro (Mid 2012, 15") comes without the heat sink of the CPU :/

    neodefensio - Antwort

    • Entferne den Kühlkörper vom Logic Board.

    • Wenn der Kühlkörper immer noch festsitzt, obwohl alle sechs Schrauben entfernt sind, ist es hilfreich mit einem Spudger die beiden Teile zu trennen.

    • Falls du den Kühlkörpers wieder auf das Logic Board baust, findest du hier unsere Anleitung zum Auftragen von Wärmeleitpaste, für ein einfaches Ersetzen der Wärmeleitpaste.

    Are 3,5 grams of thermal paste enough for both CPU and GPU? ('m an owner of a MacBook Pro Early 2011, with the AMD Radeon)

    Zamir Hashorva - Antwort

    1 gram should be enough for both

    Kabunka Ferreira - Antwort

    Strictly speaking, there’s no absolute need to remove the heat sink, unless you need to clean and re-apply some cooling past. The steps concerning the left speaker and the microphone following this step in this guide, can be done without it.

    Mikael Bystrom - Antwort

    Should i use a heat gun?

    Eddie - Antwort

    • Wenn nötig, musst du das Mikrofon aus seinem Sitz im Gehäuse des linken Lautsprechers heben.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die beiden 5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den linken Lautsprecher am Logic Board festhalten.

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    • Wenn vorhanden, musst du das kleine schwarze Klebeband lösen, das den Verbinder des linken Lautsprechers bedeckt.

    • Ziehe vorsichtig die Drähte des linken Lautsprechers hoch, um den Verbinder des linken Lautsprechers aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu heben.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Ziehe die Mikrofonkabel vorsichtig hoch, um den Verbinder des Mikrofons aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Ziehe die Kabel der Gleichspannungsversorgung (DC-in) in Richtung auf des Kühlerkörpers, um die DC-in Platine aus ihrem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Ziehe die Kabel parallel zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Löse die Klammern auf jeder Seite des RAM, indem du sie gleichzeitig vom RAM weg drückst.

    • Die Klammern halten den Chip fest, wenn du sie löst wird der Chip "herausspringen".

    • Wenn der RAM Chip herausgesprungen ist, kannst du ihn direkt aus seinem Sockel ziehen.

    • Wiederhole das Ganze, wenn ein zweiter RAM Chip installiert ist.

    • Das Logic Board bleibt allein zurück.

    • Wenn du später den Kühlkörper wieder montieren willst, benötigst du dazu Wärmeleitpaste. Unsere Anleitung zum Auftrag von Wärmeleitpaste macht das Anbringen leicht.

    I broke one of the clips that secures the memory in the "down" position when replacing the RAM. Is there any way to replace just this part? I tried removing the 4 screws that appear to connect the fastener to the logic board but had not luck removing the piece. Any ideas?

    Doug - Antwort

    Don’t forget to turn the logic board over (as pictured) first!

    Kal - Antwort

Abschluss

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For step 5 and 6, maybe a reference could be added to a screwdriver for the Tri-wing screws - this seems quite difficult to find (and in the right size...).

Else I agree to what was said before - an excellent guide!

Jan Hedlund - Antwort

ifixit does it again. Thanks so much for making this resource available. Macbooks are so expensive and its great to be able to fix them and keep em going.

lkaneshiro - Antwort

where's a good place to find decent condition logic boards My son was in Afghanistan and there for a long fricking time. While he was gone I had gotten him a MACBOOK Pro 15 loaded anyway It was made in mid-2012 He didn''t even get to use until he was home in 2015 and I hadn't used it. after a couple months he got the froze gray screen with apple logo. Called apple did every single thing possible. Finally they said bring into service center. I did they said would have to go in for repair and wasn't a retina display so I would have to pay . They couldn't tell me exact cost but esitmated at oveer $500.So I googled and I guess it's the graphics which you'd need to replace LB what do you think? Is there another fix? I can do work on windows stuff all the time just never Mac this will be my first. So need good sources if you can help I'd appreciate it. Russ

Russ Eastburn (ESP1000) - Antwort

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