Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du einen defekten Tieftöner/rechten Lautsprecher austauschen kannst.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben, mit denen das untere Gehäuse am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Sieben 3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Drei 13,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Hebe das untere Gehäuse mit beiden Händen in der Nähe der Lüftungsöffnung an, damit sich die beiden Clips lösen, mit denen die beiden Gehäuseteile verbunden sind.
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Entferne das untere Gehäuse und lege es zur Seite.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:P6 Pentalobe Screwdriver 2009 15" MacBook Pro Battery$5.49
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Entferne die beiden 5-Punkt Pentalobe Schrauben an der Oberkante des Akkus.
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
Zitat von alexkli:
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
I'm interested by your experience.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I'm just in this step now and if it is possible I would proceed like you because removing the battery void the warranty (and there is a sticker).
Thanks in advance.
Looks like my note to step 3 appears on all repair guides that have the same step. I meant that in the context of the hard drive replacement only.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I haven't yet done anything, waiting for my MacBook Pro 15 inch mid-2010 to arrive.
I missed the notes and went ahead and purchased the 5 point driver for the battery before I realized it was not necessary.
I've edited the repair guide to remove the section on the battery, but I don't have the points to approve the changes.
Please note - the step about removing the battery is part of a pre-requisite guide, that is used for many of the guides, most that do require removal of the battery. Also, working inside a disassembled laptop with the battery still connected risks damaging/shorting out very expensive parts.
Absolutely. To be clear -- ALL of the above discussion is ONLY in reference to replacing the hard drive.
I replaced a hard drive in a MacBook Pro of an earlier model than this without removing the battery. The hard drive wasn't right. It only worked at about half speed, and I had to replace it once more. The second time I removed the battery and all went well. The recommendation by the iFixit staff to remove the battery before working on electronic equipment is a good one.
What is the size of those screws... I have rounded off the socket on mine and would like to replace them.
I measured the screw size, using a micrometer, its about 1.523mm in diameter and 3.186mm in length. Not sure what screw size that is. They are not easily available I guess, unless someone is selling used ones on ebay
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Biege die Ausbuchtung am Aufkleber "Warning: Do not remove the battery" mit der Spudgerspitze hoch, um die dritte Pentalobe Schraube darunter zu entfernen.
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Hebe den Akku an seiner Plastiklasche hoch und schiebe ihn von der langen Kante des oberen Gehäuses weg.
My T6 (appears to be same screw driver you have - $6 on amazon for 20piece set) did NOT fit int he battery screws...not sure if I had the wrong screws or what, but I went ahead w/o battery steps and it was pretty easy.
I also noticed that the new SDD (from crucial) didn't have the 4 screws, so I had to move those off the old HD and onto the new one.
Just had the same issue: T6 does not fit the battery screws ;-( ... but with a little bit more preassure it was possible to remove the screws.
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Kippe den Akku soweit nach hinten, dass du an den Akkukabelstecker herankommst.
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Ziehe den Akkukabelstecker aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board und entferne den Akku aus dem oberen Gehäuse.
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Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren.
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Halte ein Ende des Kabelhalters mit einem Finger nach unten, während du das andere Ende mit der Spudgerspitze etwas anhebst und vom Kamerakabelstecker wegdrehst.
I found it quite easy to carefully remove the drive from under the camera cable without disconnecting it, and guide the new drive back in under. It saved time and the danger of damaging those fragile connectors.
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Ziehe das männliche Ende des Kamerakabels gerade vom Anschluss weg, um es zu trennen.
I would recommend leaving the camera cable plugged into the motherboard, and simply sliding the optical drive out from underneath it carefully. If you mistakenly life this connector straight up (as I did) you can damage either the cable connector or the motherboard socket. I damaged the connector on the cable and now the wifi antenna doesn't work. Replacing this damaged cable is about 10X more of a pain (in time and money) than the effort to slide the optical drive out from beneath this cable instead of disconnecting it.
Totally agree here, my wifi card is no longer recognized by the computer. Not sure what to do now.
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Löse das Kamerakabel aus der Klebeverbindung zum optischen Laufwerk.
When reassembling, which adhesive should be used to reattach the camera cable?
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Ziehe das männliche Ende des Bluetooth-Kabels gerade aus seinem Anschluss heraus und trenne es ab.
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Heble das Bluetooth-Antennenkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Anschluss auf der Platine.
How can I determine if I have an antiglare display?
Thanks!
Dan
If you have the part in step 10, you do. If you don’t, you don’t (looks like pic in step 9).
As already pointed out in a comment to step 8, it is possible to slide carefully out the drive from underneath the bluetooth board without touching it, and to insert the replacement drive in the same way, avoiding to perform this step and the next one.
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Entferne die beiden 8 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen der Halter des Bluetooth/Kamerakabels am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Hebe die Haltereinheit des Bluetooth/Kamerakabels aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
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Heble den Stecker des optischen Laufwerks mit dem Spudger gerade vom Logic Board weg.
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Die innere Seite des optischen Laufwerks ist mit einer einzelnen 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.
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Die äußere Seite des optischen Laufwerks ist mit zwei 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben am oberen Gehäuse befestigt. Drehe sie heraus.
When installing the HD bay, the screws here will not go back. Not sure if the bracket/holes are somehow different. After completing the install, everything seems secure. Does anyone think not having these screws is critical beyond securing the drive?
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Hebe das optische Laufwerk am linken Rand an und ziehe es aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
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Heble den Stecker am Kabel zur Festplatte/Infrarotsensor mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board hoch.
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Hole das Festplattenkabel aus dem Kanal im Tieftöner und rechtem Lautsprecher heraus.
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Heble den Stecker des Tieftöners/rechten Lautsprechers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade vom Logic Board weg.
I'm over 1024 characters and I'm not rewriting it, So your getting 4 comments! you'll see why!
So recently I switched from "smcFanControl" to "Macs Fan Control" ( because I wanted temperature controlled fan speeds ) and it has been running really well. so I thought that today was a good time ( 1:00 or 1AM ) to do some system maintenance on my MacBook Pro. And out came my trusty "iFixIt 54 bit driver Kit" and off went the bottom to dust everything out to prepare for the winter.
I was also feeling brave enough to tackle my little problem, you see I have noticed for a while a crackling sound in my speakers and I am not one to crank it up to 11, so I assumed that something might have gotten in there between the grill and the speaker ( I also thought it would be neat to check out this whole speaker subwoofer assembly ). I also just recently noticed it earlier on the right side which is directly above the optical drive ( yes I still have one of those! ) so I figured it would be pretty easy to quickly get to and I was right. all went fine and dandy until I went to unplug the cable for the speaker………… Whereupon, I IMMEDIATELY RIPPED THE CONNECTOR OFF THE CIRCUIT BOARD!!!!!!!!! Now mind you I've been through this before and I certainly wasn't rushing it, I already knew which way the connector worked because I discovered them when I took the fans out to clean them...
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Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen der Tieftöner und der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Zwei 3,2 mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,6 mm Schraube
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Eine 5 mm Schraube
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Hebe die Baugruppe aus Tieftöner und rechtem Lautsprecher aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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2 Kommentare
Excellent tutorial : be careful when removing the woofer connection : do it exactly as it is pictured otherwise you may harm the motherboard.
I followed these steps in order to inspect the cracked subwoofer of my MBP. After disassembly, the membrane was unglued and instead of replacing, finnally I glued it again with Neopren. It works perfectly again !
May be helpful to have more distinct colors to identify the different screws.
Victor Caamano - Antwort