Einleitung
Hier wird der Austausch des Versorgungs-/Sensorkabels am iPhone 4, inklusive Näherungs- und Helligkeitssensor, Versorgungskabel und Mikrofon zur Geräuschreduzierung gezeigt.
Was du brauchst
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinander baust.
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Deine iPhone 4 Rückabdeckung ist entweder mit zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 oder Pentalobeschrauben von Apple (zweites Bild) befestigt. Schaue nach, um welche Schrauben es sich handelt, um sicher zu gehen, dass du den richtigen Schraubendreher zum Lösen hast.
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Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm Pentalobe oder Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 neben dem Dock Anschluss.
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Schiebe die Rückabdeckung in Richtung Oberkante des iPhones.
If the back doesn't slide in properly upon reassembly, you didn't insert the motherboard properly. Remove it and try it again, DO NOT try to force it down!
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Entferne das hintere Panel von Hand vom iPhone. Verwende alternativ einen Saugheber.
using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel
Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.
If the screw head is not buggered, press the tip of a hot soldering iron to the screw for a second or two. Don't get it too hot, or you'll damage something.
splaye -
don't use hot soldering iron . the female outlet the battery plugs into is very fragile . for no extra money you can buy a battery that has magnetic tools specifically to pick this screw out . if worse comes to worse be certain the screw will come no looser then use tweezers and pick it out . the #1 fear with this technique is DO NOT DROP THE SCREW . I have done this and crawling on my hands and knees till I find it was depressing
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Entferne die einzelne 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt ist.
I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?
you potentially messed up the ribbon cable from the battery to the adapter. I have done it before. Its not fun...
barri80 -
Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?
I ended up drilling the head of one of my screws off. It was already damaged. Then I think I used needle pliers to spin it out once the plate came off and there was more room to grab the shank.
I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps
I was VERY careful but the interior philips screw holding the battery in place but it stripped immediately. I see others have had this problem. What do I do now?!
I've tried three different #000 drivers but they don't fit this screw. Stuck now. Also blows my confidence about proceeding because even if I do get this off.... I see some even smaller Phillips head screw further along in the process
If the screw is not damaged by previous attempts, the screw driver should fit perfectly. You can also tap the screw with a small mass to unlock.
revher -
Despite the battery replacement it’s really simple, in my iPhone 4 there was a totally different connector for the battery (I’ll post a few photos). Wider, only one screw but at the top, with a small contact clip screwed together with the battery connector, and which flies off once you remove the battery connector. By the way the battery provided from ifixit did not fit into neither any of the screw holes nor in the socket. The socket is in a different position compared to that in the pictures here and the battery connector can’t reach at the same time the socket and it’s seat. Sadly I have to give up… 🥲
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Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool den Akkustecker aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
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Entferne den Metall-Clip, die den Antennenstecker bedeckt.
There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.
In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.
Good luck, fixers!
I fix(ed) it!
When removing this L shaped piece, it should be shown ON CAMERA where it came from and the exact position it was in while in the phone, I had to take 2 screws (not 1 like said in the video) out to get to this piece and once that second screw came up I didn't get a chance to see where this piece came from because it popped right out. I was extremely nervous but I believe I got it back in properly.
Putting the antennae cover back in place is impossible without a good photo. I used this link to refer to:
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Verwende die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, um vorsichtig den Akku aus dem iPhone zu heben.
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Wenn sich noch Reste vom Alkohol im Smartphone befinden, dann wische sie sorgfältig weg oder lasse das Gehäuse gut austrocknen, bevor du den neuen Akku einbaust.
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Bevor du den Akkustecker wieder anschließt, stelle sicher, dass der Kontaktclip (in rot) korrekt neben dem Akkustecker positioniert ist.
use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.
This i think is the most diffucult part.
Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.
Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.
My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.
The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.
My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment
Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!
Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.
The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.
Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.
These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.
Apparently it's not necessary to remove the battery, but try at least (I'm curious).
The battery was stuck (too much glue) and the plastic tab didn't help, and I ripped it...
So I use the plastic opening tool on the other side to remove really gently the battery, it was really really stucked with the glue... Now I'll know when I'll need to change it.
I put a little piece of tape to repair the plastic tab for the next time.
For the other part of the guide, it was a piece of cake and I'm a bad bad handyman :)
Thanks for the guide!
You are right. This is the reason why their is simpler guide: iPhone 4 Battery disconnection to be used when there is no necessity for removing the battery. Disconnection is sufficient for many fixes except replacement of the battery!
revher -
you have to remove the battery for digitizer replacement, however i would suggest removing it at the very last stage, i.e. step 24. cause it is easier to remove without the logic board being there
Adhesive was holding battery VERY firmly, so during this step I used a hair blow dryer on low setting to carefully heat up the device. Then used the plastic tool to gently but firmly pry up one place on each edge. At first it felt like barely anything was happening, but within a few tries the adhesive gave away easily and the battery came right out.
Before inserting the battery I put the contact clip into position. It has a hooked shape on one side which fits between the socket and the folded battery cable. If you try to position it AFTER the battery is installed the whole process is much more difficult. I used a tweezers to hold it in place while inserting the battery.
When inserting the battery I started by guiding the folded cable into position against the side of the contact clip, then proceeded to lay the battery in position. This made it very easy to have all parts in their original positions -- no need to fiddle with the battery cable or contact clip afterwards.
When pressing the battery connector into the socket, the first time I pressed from bottom to top. That didn't work because there is a little tab at the top of the connector which must fit into a tiny notch or else the connector won't lay flat properly. Pressing the connector from top to bottom worked easily.
Needle-nosed tweezers were very helpful when lining up the screws. After everything was reassembled I tried powering up the device, but the battery had insufficient charge. I plugged it in and immediately the screen displayed a battery with a thin red line (illustrating no charge). After 25 minutes the device sprang to life and indicated a 10% charge. At 70 minutes the battery indicated 30% charge, and at that rate should be fully charged in under 4 hours. It's fixed!!
Why they didn't say this, I have no idea: HEAT UP THE BACK OF THE PHONE! This helps the adhesive give so much easier, worth the extra 2 minutes to make sure you don't tear anything.
super easy, battery had plenty of glue for what ever reason, I put the screw in 1st then set the battery and was easy to set the new battery. Charge was at 94% strange seeing it next to my Iphone 6 but glad I did it as now I can use it for music and save the battery on the main phone. Thanks for a easy instruction guide.
Strictly speaking re-assembly is NOT the exact reverse of dismantling. In particular do not put the battery in and then try to plug in the connector, Rather, start by plugging in the connector (having straightened the ribbon-wire attaching it to the battery) and only then re=position the battery on its (gluey) base. Also I used a wooden cocktail stick to position the antenna connector correctly (pushing the stick through the hole in the antenna piece and into the threaded base where the screw will eventually go) and then I held it all in place (temporarily) with a tiny blob of Bluetac until I managed to successfully withdraw the cocktail stick and fit the proper screw.
Stuey 25/2/2018
.Heating a towel and wrapping the phone for 3 min did the trick of removal of the battery.
I used the plastic opening tool to nudge the battery a bit and then shoved in the guitar pick. By sliding the guitar pick over the length of the battery, the battery got unstuck very easily.
When attaching the battery connector make sure that it snaps in place. My replacement battery connector did not snap in place and I forced it on, that caused the connector to detach from the ribbon cable. I had to solder the connector back onto the cable which requires a very steady hand and SMD soldering tools. So, if it does not snap in place with a clicking sound, the connector is probably of bad quality and your battery will probably not work. I placed my old battery back (where the connector nicely snapped in place) and am waiting for a replacement of the dodgy replacement battery.
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Verwende ein SIM Card Eject Tool oder eine Büroklammer, um die SIM Karte und ihr Fach auszuwerfen.
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Entferne die SIM Karte und ihr Fach.
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Entferne die folgenden zwei Schrauben:
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Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Entferne die dünne Stahlabdeckung des Dock Anschluss Kabels vom iPhone.
I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.
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Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um den Dock Kabelanschluss an beiden kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses vom Logic Board hochzuhebeln.
Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.
The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.
I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.
It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.
But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.
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Löse das Dock-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig vom Logic Board und dem unteren Lautsprechergehäuse.
This is held down by adhesive, don't try to just yank it off. Peel it slowly. If you damage this cable, you are slightly screwed.
Peel back NOT off. It needs to just pull aside. If it comes off, throw the phone.
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Heble den unteren Antennenanschluss mit einem Plastic Opening Tool aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.
what are you talking about here???
Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.
I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?
see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.
-dan
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Entferne die 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Unterseite des Logic Boards am inneren Gehäuse befestigt ist.
Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.
The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?
same here, screw stripped any suggestions?
Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;
1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.
Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.
Perhaps practice on some other things first.
I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.
Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. Precision Screw Extractor Set
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Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, mit denen die Wi-Fi Antenne am Logic Board befestigt ist:
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Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Zwei 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Eine 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 4,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.
INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/i...
I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.
Jimmy -
Thanks for your notice! It really helps me.
There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.
Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.
marcx77 -
If a nut under the YELLOW screw is rotating, hold the nut with tweezers.
On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.
Print this image out (step 13) - trust me, you'll need it later!
The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head WiFi antenna logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!
When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?
This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.
But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.
I used an elastic band pulled taught over the blade of a flat headed screwdriver to hold the nut (beneath the yellow screw) in place. Alternatively I was thinking of carving the eraser on the end of a pencil into a wedge shape to do the same job when tightening the screw on reassembly. Just needs something to grip it in place to stop it spinning.
A note about screw management: ALWAYS remove screws from left to right if you are just putting them in order of removal on a magnetic trey, it helps with re-assembly. If you can, I recommend getting a magnetic white board and writing the size of the screws on it and categorizing by that, it makes it way easier and you won't ever have to worry about putting the wrong size screw in anywhere ever again.
the nut of the yellow screw falls be careful ...to re install it again
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Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um die Oberseite der Wi-Fi Antenne vom Logic Board wegzuheben.
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Ziehe mit einem Spudger die Wi-Fi Rückhalte-Clips vom inneren Rahmen weg.
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Entferne die Wi-Fi Antenne vom iPhone. Stelle sicher, dass du die Metallclips oben auf der Abdeckung, wo die 4,8mm Schrauben sitzt, nicht verlierst, oder die 4,8 mm Schraube selbst. Probleme mit dieser Schraube sind der häufigste Grund für eine schlechte Wi-Fi Leistung nach dem Wiederzusammenbau.
watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips
So as I'm prying the plate off a tiny little nut falls out. I've repaired 4 iPhone 4s now and this is the first time this has happened. Anyone know where exactly it goes? I'd upload a pic, but this forum doesn't support images I see. I'm pretty sure it goes to the long bolt at top center, but where in the stack it goes I'm not certain.
It's probably the nut for the yellow screw of step 13. It sometimes comes off the motherboard, with no adverse effects. Just put it back, under the small u-shaped metal shielding
Yes, that belongs to the yellow screw and is (badly) glued to the motherboard. You'll need very thin pliers to place and fix the nut while reassembling.
mcbohdo -
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Hebe die Rückkamera Anschluss mit einem iPod Opening Tool aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
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Entferne die Rückkamera.
the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.
Just to clarify, the little tab on the side of the camera does not go under the motherboard, it goes under the cables. This misunderstanding is common for those new to mobile repair. Always make sure you take notes on the small things like this!
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Entfernen den kleinen runden weißen Sticker (Garantie-Aufkleber und Wasserstandsanzeiger), welcher die Schraube neben der Akkuziehlasche liegt.
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Entferne die 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die unter dem Sticker versteckt war.
There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.
I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?
It won't hurt anything.
Joshua -
Danger! Since the last screw I took out before is the 4.8 mm (step 13) it can happen that one messes up the order and uses this one instead of the 2.4 mm! This will break the new Display again. I'd add a distinct warnig here to use the right (short) one.
Now I'll a order a new display...
I agree with Ed Williams: no screw under the sticker on my phone.
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Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool die folgenden Anschlüsse nach oben und aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board:
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Digitizer Kabel (heble von unten)
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LCD Kabel (heble von unten)
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Kopfhörerbuchse/Lautsprecherreglerkabel (heble von oben)
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Oberes Mikro/Sleep Button Kabel (heble von oben)
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Frontkamerakabel (heble von oben)
Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.
It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.
When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.
Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.
When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.
After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... After replacing screen camera app now stuck on shutter?
I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volume button plug (yellow marked in step 17 of relacement guide), you can see it in the picture as two silvery dots. If your prying tool sits on that jumper when levelling the plug off, it is history. I took a ampoule of conducting silver liquid, but instead of shaking it I took some of the sediment out with a thin wire and aplied a tiny blob over the two remaining soldering pads left. And alas, it worked ! Front camera is ok again. Thanks to those who found out about that jumper.
On reassembly, be really careful when reattaching the digitizer cable - the cable breaks very easily, rendering your nice new display useless. In my case, I must not have threaded the cable through properly, so it was just a bit too short to reach the connector. I gave it a gentle tug... and snap!
I was much more careful the second time through :(
did you have to buy a whole new display?
same thing just happened to me:((((
mstutz12 -
What is the correct length of flex (ribbon) cable for the Digitizer cable and the LCD cable? I've threaded the cables correctly through the mid frame, however, I keep encountering the same issue. Once I've tried seating the cables into the sockets, the Digitizer cable is too short by approximately 5mm. I've tried several different makes of the front panel display (front screen replacement) but have encountered the same problem with each and the supplier, stating each have been 'defective units'. It just feels a stretch to believe I've been unlucky in purchasing 4 that have all been defective. I can't check these against the original (Apple) screen, as it was too damaged and the removal process of these iPhone 4 screens is a nightmare. Any help is appreciated
Feeding those ribbon cables through the frame is one of the trickier parts of this repair. Check Step 30 of the Display Assembly Replacement Guide for detailed instructions. If you check the comments, you'll find a lot of others have struggled with this—but it can be done! :)
My setup was nothing like this. The headphone jack, top microphone, and front camera connections were not in these locations. Rather, they were on the logic board below the main camera connection. Furthermore, the logic board was held in place by a Phillips head screw that was hidden under a small black piece of tape. This screw also held the small gold connector tab. Additionally, the bottom of the logic board was held in place by a Phillips head screw.
Sounds to me like you have an iPhone 4S. This guide is for the iPhone 4. ;)
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Entferne die 4,8 mm Abstandsschraube neben der Kopfhörerbuchse.
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Ohne dieses Teil könnte das Motherboard das Flachbandkabel außenherum beschädigen.
The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.
Is this it? http://i.imgur.com/AQlJS8g.jpg
crimney -
I believe that's the one he's referring to...
Joshua -
The screw anchor/stud came loose on me as well... How did you repair it? If you left it broke did it effect anything?
iyacyas -
Image of rectangular rubber piece
Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.
Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!
Joshua -
I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).
Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!
Joshua -
there are several versions of what appears to be the iphone 4S. It has more screws and a hidden 4.8mm flathead at the top close to where the exposed one was in this step. I rendered my iphone useless not knowing this. If you have this version, stop, put everything back and bring it to a professional, or you will find about 6 or 8 extra pieces that are not covered in these instructions and a broken phone as well.
Wesley, this is the guide for the iPhone 4, not the 4S. The two are distinctly different.
There's no multiple-variants of either model to best of my knowledge (having repaired hundreds of both the 4 and 4S)
Didn’t see the comments about the rubber strip until too late - severed the digitizer ribbon cable on the edge of the board! Screen worked fine, but no touch control - had to buy a new screen and do it all again…! :(
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Entferne das Logic Board vorsichtig vom iPhone und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.
AliExpress is the place for you.
Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.
Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.
Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!
Joshua -
Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.
It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.
fasthans -
You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.
fasthans -
Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!
This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.
This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.
hi, the small gold prong (step 19) in my phone is fragile what should i do? what function from that small gold prong? thank you
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Löse die dünne Stahl-Frontkamerahalterung mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs von der Frontkamera.
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Entferne die Frontkamerahalterung.
I found it easier to remove the camera after removing the headphone jack. The right side of the retainer was refusing to come off.
My screen is kaing really funny lines now and the phone doesnt come on. I dont know if i out the little gold thingy back correctly though, need help please!!!
I had funny lines aswell.
I think I had a minor case of them because:
- they only occured int the OS(lock screen, home screen, apps were fine(apart from some keyboards))
- only in the horizontal pixels in the lines with text in them were darker
- int went away after two days (pretty much non-stop on the power-line)
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Hebe die Frontkamera vorsichtig aus dem iPhone.
This step is completely unnecessary- you don't need to remove the camera if you need to install the headphone jack part. The cables don't even overlap.
Yes the camera does not need to be taken out. It can stay in. Removing the metal camera clip is a pain. This is the step that took me the longest and would have saved me an hour if I didn't have to do it. If you do take the clip off and take the camera out can you put a higher resolution camera in? Anyway when putting the clip back the clip arms/legs go on the outside of the receiving metal slots-NOT ON THE INSIDE. I tried too long to get them to clip on the inside thinking I was doing something wrong.
I found this explanation about how to reattach the f**g clip: "I normally use a pair of tweezers. Start with the right side first, then the bottom and then the top. You have to make sure the retainer clips go on the outside of the points where they attach. But you are right, this is a very difficult thing to get back in to place."
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Entferne folgende zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Vibrationsmotor am inneren Rahmen befestigen:
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Eine 6 mm Schraube
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Eine 1,4 mm Schraube
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Entferne den Vibrationsmotor vom inneren Gehäuse.
******** you dont mention the camera! you have to remove the camera before you proceed to the next step.
I agree! It is very important to remove the front camera before proceeding past step 19. It's removal is reflected in the pictures used in subsequent steps! I edited the guide to reflect this, but my edit was rejected. I contacted iFixit about the missing step, and was told that enough people completed the guide without it, so it was deemed not necessary.
Tommy -
Hi there. It seems this guide had a missing prerequisite, the front-facing camera. The removal of the front-facing camera has been added. We apologize for any inconvenience this might have caused. Thanks for letting us know.
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Löse mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher aus der Klebeverbindung zum Frontpanel.
NOTE FOR REMOVAL--FINAL PIECE: as i was removing the last part of the complex ribbon assembly and arrived at the final connection to remove, i could not figure out from the photos what was holding it to the phone chassis. i will try to describe it so its more clear, since there doesn't seem to be any description of what i'm talking about...
1. the final attachment is held on vertically to a chassis wall. use a small flat object, perhaps your fingernail between the black foam and the vertical wall. it is a trick to pull the final piece off the wall without damaging the black foam. mine is now damaged and will not likely re-stick.
it may not normally be a problem since your new piece may come with a rubber sticky thing. but in my case, i was removing a good one to replace a damaged one on my other phone.
I thinks it's better to leave the earphone speaker attached until the power and sensor cable is removed from the phone. The speaker can then be carefully peeled off so that the foam and glue are retained on the speaker for reattachment to the new cable. I peeled it off with the cable in place as shown in the instructions and it tore the foam.
Mike H June 2015
I totally agree that it is better to leave the earphone speaker attached until the power and sensor cable is removed from the phone. It is too hard to see where to pry and not to pry and I also ended up tearing the black lining.
Mike H June 2015
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Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000, welche die Halterung der Einschalttaste am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.
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Ziehe die Halterung der Einschalttaste hoch und aus dem äußeren Gehäuse heraus.
The power button bracket has 2 screws that need to be removed, there's no mention of them in this tutorial.
Agree with the above: Two screws holding the power button bracket are not mentioned and must be removed. One of them is very awkward to reach due to the digitiser and LCD cables being in the way. This was the trickiest part of the whole procedure for me. Otherwise a wonderful guide. Thanks so much.
When removing and/or re-inserting the right-hand screw, I damaged the LCD cable and the phone did not work. Fortunately, the power/sensor cable was from a donor phone and I also was ale to use the display assembly from the donor phone as well to a good conclusion. Be very careful to fold the LCD and digitizer cables down out of the way when accessing that screw, or if you want ultimate protection, consider removing the display assembly before removing the power button.
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Ziehe die Umfassung der Kopfhörerbuchse mit einer Pinzette aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.
The instructions here should specify that the headphone jack is attached to a ribbon cable. And that said cable is *extremely* fragile.
I didn't even feel resistance when removing the jack and now I have to replace that assembly as well. :(
Same problem with tearing the headphone adapter ribbon. Didn't even notice it until I turned over the phone and the jack part fell out and hit the floor.
No need to remove fully the headphone Jack..
Just pull it up from the upper part.. that's sufficient enough
to remove the power/sensor cable .
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Fasse das Versorgungs- und Sensorkabel nahe am Mikrofon an und löse es vom Front Panel ab. Achte darauf, dass es dabei nicht reißt.
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Vergewissere dich, dass der geschäumte Annäherungssensor-UV-Filter vom alten Versorgungs- und Sensorkabel auf das neue übertragen wurde, wenn dein neues nicht schon mit einem geliefert worden ist. Er sieht wie ein kleines Quadrat aus und kann mit einer Pinzette abgezogen werden.
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Übertrage die Halterung auf dein neues Versorgungs- und Sensorkabel
There is a small plastic 'box' covering a few components that must be transferred to the replacement cable assembly. Also, there is a small foam 'frame' that covers a sensor (proximity?) that must be transferred to the replacement cable assembly.
I'm having constant problems with those cables. It came to the point that I took that cable out of my personal iphone and put it back and after that the proximity and light sensors don't work. And I tested 10 cables on 3 different phones and I can't get it to work. Do you have any idea what I may be doing wrong? The power button work, so it's just the sensors...and I really can't believe all my cables are bad because I had a good one, took it out, installed back and it stopped working. What can I be doing wrong during the installation?
grze -
I had the same problem, grze, and after lots of frustration and trial/error I realized that the foam frame that Blarg referred to was this 0.5 cm plastic/rubber piece that was stuck on the original power and sensor cable. It's a rubber frame with a cool-looking reflective glass screen in the middle. If you transfer that onto the proximity sensor on your replacement cable (which doesn't come with it)... it should work perfectly.
Is there a place where you can buy these foams that you put on the proximity sensor?
When I remove these from the original one, they just don't stick anymore.
Any Ideas? (I don't want to pay 5$ for a single foam)
Ruben -
My power button stopped working. Figured it was mechanical, since it didn't "click" anymore. got a new power/sensor cable, replaced it using this guide and now the proximity sensor is not working. I put all the rubber foams back in their places, made sure everything was stuck where supposed and it is still not working. If you are replacing yours, be very careful during this part!
"Also be sure to transfer the proximity sensor shroud/filter adhered to the old power & sensor cable if your new one does not already come with one."
It took me a while to figure out what they were referring to. Almost threw it out since it was stuck to the old flex! It's the little rectangular plastic piece with a little loop at the top left. You can see it in the middle of the power flex displayed in the previous step's picture. It seems it keeps the proximity sensor in place. It would be helpful if it were circled.
This step is crucial to getting the proximity sensor back into working state:
There are two sensors on the power and sensor cable peeping through the front glass of the phone. Looking at the front of the phone, the sensor on the right is a square and dark one, whereas the sensor on the left is a round golden one. The square, dark sensor on the right needs to be covered with the proximity sensor UV filter foam sticker everybody is talking about. The sticky side needs to be applied directly to the sensor. You can get these stickers at eBay. Don't apply the sticker to the front display glass of your phone. Don't apply the sticker to the golden, round sensor.
i want to say that my problem was it is easy to OVER TIGHTEN the screws holding the bracket over the new power button . the new button will not operate as it is always pressed in so I fixed this by using a drop thread lock then putting the screws in and backing them back out slowly testing the button the whole time till the power button worked . let set over night so the thread lock will dry and bingo it worked . I read many "use paper" and "use rubber band" that is not fixed . I am a believer in the project working not jury rigged .....
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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24 Kommentare
I replaced the Home button and the Power & Sensor cable, along with battery. Let me explain some caveats with ifixit's parts (OEM Apple parts):
-The power-sensor part does not include a new gasket/filter for the sensor- recommend tweezers and care.
-The power-sensor cable needs the foam pad transferred with the adhesive- extreme care with removal.
-IF the power button isn't working it is likely the cable, not the button.
-I used a small ice cube tray.
-It took me an hour (I had to get up and walk away...frustration factor high with the delicate flex cables and adhesive). Lit magnifier is welcome. Definitely use a spudge stick.
-I broke 2 of the 4 shield/antenna tabs that you need to tuck down from the speaker on re-assembly. I didn't force them, but so easy to press too hard in seating the speaker.
- I do repairs on a grounded-ESD mat and wore wriststrap.
-Right screw on the power button brace is PITA to access...careful pressing on the display flex cables to access the tiny screw. Magnetize your bit!
Great guide and perfect web site. It is extremely easy to find what you are looking for and order the components you need.
Be careful in the step after removing the battery connector and then the battery, you forgot to mention the small springed contact piece below the batt connector, sharing the same screw. I dropped it on the floor after handling the batt but found it and figured out how to place it in the re-build. Anyhow, nice guide 1.5 hrs work wo to go on replacing the button circuit.
Great Tutorial.. and most importantly great tips from users such as ->
1. - printing the pages and taping the screws at step with scotch..
2. To avoid greasy hands problem, I used tweezers all the time ..
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SENSOR FILTER TRANSFERRED!!! The guide does NOT make it explicit!!! Everything's ok except the proximity sensor. Not looking forward to take it apart again. The new cable may rip!
Power button wouldn't click so I followed a different guide (very similar to this). I only realized now that proximity sensor wasn't working. It doesn't bother me too much, but I may try to fix it. I had to reopen it to fix my WiFi after a little piece fell out and I replaced it with aluminum foil. A small piece of plastic fell out that looks like the proximity sensor. How does it get affixed back to the power bracket?
My main problem is that my pinhole microphone (next to the headphone jack for speaker phone and audio in videos) doesn't work anymore. It gives me a hissing sound. A guy at a fix-it store seemed to tell me that it was related to the power bracket and things might need to be shuffled around because it was very unlikely it was damaged. Does the little metal square on the power bracket provide power for the microphone? Is there anything specific that needs to be touching other parts in there to make it function properly?
If you could respond to dannyjfong@gmail.com I would be very grateful.
do anyone know where this pice falled out? it happened when i removed the logic board i think.. http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266...
To Serge: it goes between the speaker and the top plastic part of the power cable. You can see it in step 29 first pict.
Can you please explain this comment as i can only see 27 steps....?
To Serge: it goes between the speaker and the top plastic part of the power cable. You can see it in step 29 first pict.
omeucorreode - 08/28/2013
Cat -
after the breaking of the switch power button I proceeded to replace the flat. After putting everything I have, however, found that the hands-free microphone is not functioning.
I disassembled everything again, double checked but it seems to be all right (power button and proximity sensor are ok)
I can not understand what could have gone wrong.
I should add that the hands-free microphone with the old flat was working at 100%.
I have already ordered a new flat, because maybe what I have mounted is defective ... I doubt it but I hope so!
Does anyone have ideas or suggestions?
I am repairing a power button that won't press down anymore. I have replaced the button but am still not able to push the button. Is this a sensor cable issue or is it something else completely?
No my phone is dead :(
Verizon CDMA iPhone 4? You should review the iPhone 4S instructions (iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen), as I found some of the screws and components on my Verizon iPhone 4 to be more similar to the iPhone 4s (especially the cable cover and logic board connectors).
Awesome guide- first time I ever cracked open an iPhone, and it was a total success!
This guide is very good. I could replace the power/proximity sensor/mic cable successfully using this guide. Note that the two screws on the power button bracket should not be tightened all the way in - that jams the power button. I thightened them all the way and then loosened them (probably 270 deg anticlockwise) until the power button gave that distinct 'click' feeling when pressed.
Successfully replaced the cable, just a couple of tips to pass on:
1) When transferring the pads and spacer, it is possible to get by with reusing the original adhesive if you're very, very careful. I used a sharp single-edged razor blade to carefully lift between the adhesive (a double-sided tape) and the cable. A small X-Acto knife blade would probably work, too. As mentioned elsewhere, don't even think about using crazy glue, as the fumes will attack the various metal contacts in the phone and create a real mess.
2) Read all of the guide comments here before you start. There's a lot of great tips that will make things easier and save you from damaging parts.
3) I replaced my battery at the same time that I did the cable replacement, old battery was five years old and no extra labor since the battery comes out to do the cable replacement.
I have a screw that isn’t wanting to come out. How do I fix the button without removing that one screw at the top?
J’ai juste mis un peu de temps à comprendre que le support du bouton marche/arrêt devait passer derrière une languette en haut de la caméra frontale. Mais merci beaucoup pour ce tutoriel. J’ai remplacé la nappe et tout fonctionne parfaitement.
using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.
awr - Antwort
My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.
lens42 -
I use a plastic egg tray, I drop all the screws and small parts (like the camera) for each step into the same egg indentation. You can see that the screws are different lengths, so I don't put one screw into it's own spot. I used 5 egg indentations to replace my screen.
Mangled Jargon -
I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!
I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.
Great write up! Thanks a million.
Jaysen Strange - Antwort
I've changed some iPod screens as well and that has been the least pleasant experience so far. Glue and the main connector that has to be unwrapped and connected from the rear where you have no feel or control where it belongs.
iPhone repair is complex, but doable and has very few "traps".
mcbohdo -
Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out
ckracht - Antwort
I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).
Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.
jhow -
On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!
etler - Antwort
Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!
Dpairs - Antwort
What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?
Jay Pennington - Antwort
great instructions did it the first time
Mr J - Antwort
For organisation of the parts and for a much easier process of rebuilding i use a big magnetic flat surface with a grid drawn on it. Then I use a dry erase marker to make any notes I need and to number the parts in order as i disassemble . Believe me it saves a lot of time and hassle especially if you drop one of those tiny screws good luck finding it but when your working over the magnet and drop a screw its going to be right where it fell. At first I tried the piece of paper to keep organised but all it takes is one small slip and you move the paper too quick and your left with a jumbled bunch of screws and parts and a painstaking task of putting it all back correctly, aka a big waist of time and effort.
case-yg - Antwort
I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.
I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.
If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.
Megan Telliano - Antwort