Jeff Suovanen

@dlcatftwin I’m not sure I understand the distinction you’re making. You are fully disconnecting the battery, by opening the circuit and wedging a big insulator in there to keep it from closing again accidentally.

The battery in this laptop should never be re-used after being removed—it’s easily damaged and becomes a potential fire hazard. Replace the battery ASAP.

@ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

@moeskido1 They don’t use an SSD in the ordinary use of the term—their flash storage chips are BGA-soldered directly to the logic board (as shown in the image above) and SSD controller functions are handled by Apple’s custom T2 chip. The upside is very fast read/write speeds and low power consumption, with the obvious downside being the complete lack of repair, upgrade, and data recovery options. And it’s hard to ignore how it benefits Apple at the expense of their customers, since you have to pay through the nose to future-proof the storage capacity.

Makes sense! The match with the second-highest HQI was Cytor 7040 (as you can see in the screen capture)—which as you correctly pointed out is a type of TPU. We updated the teardown accordingly. Thanks for your comment!

Top side of the dome is pictured in Step 8. ;)

The thing that really holds it all together is the clear plastic cover piece with the black dot in the middle. That component both holds the dome in place on the PCB and provides the pivot points for the hinged white bracket that controls the keycap travel. Unfortunately, it’s essentially riveted in place from the back with plastic pegs, and prying it out is usually pretty destructive. (In other words, don’t try this at home!) The silicone dust membrane doesn’t have to be cut however, as it’s mainly around the perimeter and not over the top of the mechanism.

Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

Unfortunately, no—Apple has made that impossible.