Du brauchst zum Austausch des Akkus einen Lötkolben mit feiner Spitze. Dies ist eine schwierige Reparatur und du solltest es nur probieren, wenn du gut löten kannst.

  1. Setze die Kante eines iPod Öffnungswerkzeugs in den Spalt zwischen äußerem Gehäuse und der oberen Blende ein.
    • Setze die Kante eines iPod Öffnungswerkzeugs in den Spalt zwischen äußerem Gehäuse und der oberen Blende ein.

    • Hebele die obere Blende aus der Klebeverbindung zur Displayhalterung heraus.

    • An diesem Punkt ist der Hold-Schiebeschalter lose und kann herausfallen. Achte darauf, ihn nicht zu verlieren..

    Be sure to use the smaller iPod opening tool and press it in FIRMLY in order to get enough leverage to get under the bezel and pry it off. Adhesive is very strong, so don't be afraid to use a little bit of force.

    captcarl13 - Antwort

  2. Entferne den Hold-Schiebeschalter von der Oberseite des Nano.
    • Entferne den Hold-Schiebeschalter von der Oberseite des Nano.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die beiden abgewinkelten Kreuzschlitzschrauben in den beiden Ecken der Displayhalterung.

    • Diese Schrauben sind sehr klein und ihre Köpfe können leicht ausschlagen.

    Be sure to use a good phillips #00 screwdriver here, or you run the risk of stripping the very small screws.

    iTronics Repair - Antwort

    The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

    I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

    bodieg - Antwort

    Zitat von bodieg:

    The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

    I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

    Step 12 is misleading as it does not show to remove the screen from the metal frame.

    bodieg - Antwort

    Sorry guys, but the explanations are really bad. Go onto youtube and watch it. This site misses heaps of steps. I just broke my iPod :(

    S Mile - Antwort

    Like others have noted, screws are covered in adhesive and difficult to remove. Take extreme care to not strip the heads. I'd suggest using a very small flathead to scrape some of the adhesive off before attempting to remove the screws.

    captcarl13 - Antwort

    a 1mm slotted screwdriver will work in a pinch, but be carefull and make sure you get the angle just right

    andrew - Antwort

    The tools list doesn't say you need an iPod opener to, nor does the parts list day you'll need a new click wheel, though this is called ”...click wheel REPLACEMENT​”. I don't get the feeling these are very trustworthy instructions, ESPECIALLY after having read other comments. I'd say BEWARE, and look at a variety of resources to get a much more comprehensive picture.

    Skyfire - Antwort

    Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod, which means that you must not try to unscrew them vertically. If you do there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus look carefully with a torch to see at what angle you have to unscrew them.

    Fabrice Sarelli - Antwort

    Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod. That means that if you try to unscrew them vertically, there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus, look carefully with a torch to see exactly at what angle you need to unscrew them safelly.

    Fabrice Sarelli - Antwort

    Everything was good up to this point. I could barely see the screws and ended up stripping them. Just gave up at this point and threw the

    Ipod on the ground and stomped on it.

    gonzalo gonzalez - Antwort

    I agree with several other contributors here, that a properly sized flat screwdriver *that is not worn* held at the correct angle is a better option than a phillips because the screw head is filled in with adhesive tape. BEWARE: The screws on the top and bottom outer edges are not parallel to the case. They are offset by 25 or 30 degrees, with the tips of the screws pointing out towards the outer edge of the case with respect to where the heads are. Use something to get magnification so you can really see how your screwdriver fits, and whether it’s engaged. An undamaged and properly sized standard screwdriver held in the appropriate orientation will readily remove the top and bottom side screws without stripping and with very little force. Feel for engagement — press the screwdriver in just enough to get past the adhesive. Not much torque or pressure is required — just a good fit. You must have the right tools to do this job successfully, and look under high magnification. Align your screwdriver!

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    • Setze ein iPod Öffnungswerkzeug zwischen dem äußeren Gehäuse und der Displayhalterung ein.

    • Schiebe die Displayeinheit mit dem Werkzeug etwas aus dem Gehäuse heraus.

    • Drehe die Displayhalterung nicht um die Oberkante des Displays, da sie an einer dünnen Klammer aus Stahl befestigt ist, die leicht brechen kann.

    • Entferne die Displayhalterung nicht mit Gewalt, das Kabel zum Hold-Schalter kann leicht zerreißen.

    I found I had to gently pry the retainer open with a craft knife (xacto knife?) as the plastic opener tool was too blunt or soft to get any purchase...

    aaaidan - Antwort

    My nano had a "swollen" battery which wedged the LCD between battery and front glass. As a result, this step didn't work, I couldn't pull out the TFT and botched case, TFT and TFT frame until it came out. Telltale sign was a display that looked like there is a water between glass and LCD. The other nanos I've opened didnt have this problem and came out effortlessly, so if yours is stuck, don't feel bad, there's not much you can do!

    oliver - Antwort

    • Schiebe das Display aus dem Nano heraus. Es lässt sich etwa 1,3 cm weit bewegen, bis es vom Displaydatenkabel gestoppt wird.

    • Belaste das sehr dünne Displaydatenkabel nicht unnötig..

    I have several problems in taking it out. I don't know if it is dued to the glue that the iPod has inside. Could you help me. Thanks

    Hector - Antwort

    instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

    pedalsandpicks - Antwort

    Quote from pedalsandpicks:

    instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

    If you're gonna repair the way you read it will get you nowhere: the text reads .(as point)5 inch. Which is about 12mm.

    Frank veenis - Antwort

    The glass panel can be very difficult to get moving requiring a lot of downward force. I have found good old fashioned spit to be very useful here.Just lick both thumbs and rub on fingers until just sticky enough.

    This willl move the glass.

    Pete Green - Antwort

    • Wenn das Display soweit wie möglich herausgezogen ist, kannst du vorsichtig auf die Unterkante der Glasscheibe drücken, bis sie ein wenig hereinspringt. (ca 1 mm)

    • Schiebe die Glasscheibe mit den Daumen auf der Unterkante nach unten in das Gehäuse hinein, bis die Oberkante aus dem Gehäuse herausspringt.

    I found the adhesive (or fit) quite strong. Pushing on the bottom part of the glass created a small gap at the top, which I could fit a craft knife (xacto blade) into. This made it easier to carefully lever the glass out for me.

    aaaidan - Antwort

    I slipped and broke the LCD. So !#^&@@ off. What an absolute bastard of a job!

    lf - Antwort

    What is the "rear edge" of the nano? Can this be a bit clearer please? Maybe a video of this step would be a good idea. Then again, since Apple owns this site, I guess that's not gonna happen, is it?

    lf - Antwort

    I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.

    Rene Jeddore -

    You could do all these steps and really mess up your nano. Instead of disassembling the iPod, carefully remove the remnants of the old glass which I assumed you have cracked. With the new glass in hand CAREFULLY sand one edge of the glass evenly. I used my fine grinder on my dremel tool. After assuring a snug fit I removed the adhesive and installed the glass. Looks great and functional and I didn't ruin my iPod in the process. And when I said sand one edge I mean one of the edges that has a "lip" on it. The other lip you can slide right in and push gently down for a nice fit. Do not remove the adhesive until you are sure of a good fit. This is a quick fix for those who are too queezy to take apart their device.

    Jim - Antwort

    • Hebe die Glasscheibe aus dem Nano.

    • Bevor du die Glasscheibe wieder einsetzt, musst du die Oberfläche des Displays und die Rückseite der Glasscheibe gut reinigen. Jeder Fingerabdruck und jedes Staubkorn ist sonst störend zu bemerken, wenn der Nano eingeschaltet ist.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Trenne den Hold-Schiebeschalter mit der Kante eines iPod Öffnungswerkzeug aus der Klebeverbindung zur Oberkante des Displays.

    • Das Flachbandkabel zum Hold-Schiebeschalter ist sehr empfindlich und kann leicht beschädigt werden. Arbeite sehr sorgfältig!

    Be extremely careful while doing anything around the screen. The slightest bit of pressure in the wrong direction and you will be replacing the screen along with the battery. I speak from experience.

    Brian Campbell - Antwort

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Ziehe das Kaptonband vom Sockel des Displaydatenkabels ab.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Halte den hellgefärbten Sockel mit einem Finger nach unten und kippe mit der Spudgerspitze den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder nach oben in Richtung Unterkante des Nano.

    Continue to carefully hold the socket down while doing the next step. If the cable come off at the wrong angle it can pull the connector away from the board at the base of the screen.

    Brian Campbell - Antwort

    • Löse das Displaydatenkabel mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug von der dünnen Metallplatte ab, die am Display angebracht ist.

    • Sei dabei vorsichtig und zerreiße nicht das Displaydatenkabel.

    Some of the ribbon is inside the white housing with the lock on, it needs to slide out of the housing. I didn't notice this because everything is so small - be sure not to slide your pry tool right through it.

    Martin Mccaffrey - Antwort

    The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.

    Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.

    aaaidan - Antwort

    As commenter Brian Campbell wrote on the previous step, it is important to hold down the white cable socket while carefully working the cable loose from the adhesive. Even a small amount of upward force on the display data cable while it is still inside the socket could be enough to tear the socket off the board. Try not to pry up - use a thin, new (undamaged) opening tool to get under the ribbon cable and keep it parallel and as close to the metal plate as possible. It needs to be worked *under* the data cable, not to pry, as the cable just slides straight out the bottom of the white socket.

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    • Ziehe das Display aus dem Nano heraus, achte dabei darauf, dass sich das Kabel zum Hold-Schiebeschalter nicht verfängt.

    • Passe beim Herausziehen des Displays aus dem Gehäuse auf, dass du nicht das Kabel zum Hold-Schiebeschalter beschädigst.

    WATCH THE HOLD SWITCH!! Be *sure* it is disconnected before pulling out the screen! (I've made that mistake too many times :P)

    iTronics Repair - Antwort

    disconnected from what?

    I never saw where it was connected to!

    Fred Rodolf -

    By "caught" do you mean glued to the case? Mine was, and I cant tell how I could possibly have removed the screen without it breaking. Luckily my Ipod was already broken, but now its even more broke because of this guide.

    swd311000 - Antwort

    • Setze ein iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug zwischen der unteren Blende und dem Dock-Anschluss ein.

    • Trenne die untere Blende aus der Klebeverbindung zum Nano und lege sie zur Seite.

    Follow this picture exactly, inserting the tool in the dock port to pry off the bottom plastic piece-- if you pry on the edges you may bend or break this plastic piece.

    iTronics Repair - Antwort

    • Entferne die drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben an der Unterseite des Nano.

    • Diese Schrauben sind sehr klein und ihr Kopf kann leicht ausschlagen.

    • Die etwas längere Schraube gehört in die Mitte.

    In my case, the screw on the left was impossible to remove, it looked like it was unscrewing but was not ... I could not proceed any further.

    Any advice?

    Gauthier Scavée - Antwort

    If a screw is stripped, you need to somehow get another under the head to apply pressure to unscrew it (while unscrewing it). It’s an unpleasant operation where you have to apply pressure to keep the screwdriver pressed into the head while prying outward so the threads back out. Try not to strip the head, and try not to strip the threads, while helping the threads to catch.

    If this happens, you’ll need to replace the screw. It’s not a good idea to reinstall a stripped screw.

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    • Heble die Aluminiumblende um den Dockanschluss mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug vom iPod weg.

    • Diese Blende ist aus sehr dünnem Aluminium geformt. Um zu vermeiden, dass sie zerbricht, darfst du sie nicht zu sehr verbiegen.

    I found using the opening tool to wedge up (toward the case) from between the metal bit (which is a plate) and the dock socket was the easiest way to do this.

    aaaidan - Antwort

    • Löse den Akku mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zum äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Der Lithium Polymer Akku im iPod ist sehr flexibel. Verbiege ihn nicht zu stark , wenn du ihn vom äußeren Gehäuse trennst.

    • Schiebe die Logic Board Einheit und den Akku mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers ein wenig aus dem unteren Teil des iPod Nanos heraus. Höre damit auf, wenn er etwas herausspringt.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Löse das Flachbandkabel zum Klickrad und seinen ZIF Sockel mit der Kante eines iPod-Öffnungswerkzeugs vom Dockanschluss ab.

    No, don’t do step 17 without reading step 18 and 19 first! Step 17 is very misleading read on its own, you will break the connector. You need to read setps 17, 18 and 19 before starting step 17.

    John beGood - Antwort

    Pay heed to the word “peel”. Don’t pry. Work the tool slowly under the connector, keeping it as close to the board as possible. Don’t pry. The unit I repaired also had a small piece of Kapton tape, the corner of which can be lifted with tweezers.

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    • Kippe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder mit der Kante des iPod-Öffnungswerkzeugs hoch in Richtung der Kopfhörerbuchse.

    you might want to put a note for the delicacy of this cable on Step 16... because the cable can break as you slide the logic board assembly out :o(

    juliforsyth - Antwort

    • Schiebe das Flachbandkabel des Klickrads mit einer Pinzette aus seinem Sockel.

    • Bevor du fortfährst, musst du sicher sein, dass sowohl der Sockel des Flachbandkabels zum Klickrad als auch das Kabel nicht mehr am Dockanschluss und am Logic Board festkleben.

    • Löse das Kabel an beiden Enden ab!

    You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my ipod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

    Mike - Antwort

    Zitat von Mike:

    You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my iPod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

    Mine too, but the iPod was already toast :D, so now i have a stylish 8GB External SSD

    Chris Green - Antwort

    There has got to be a trick to it, or something I am missing when putting it back together. I can't get the click wheel ribbon to go back in properly. It keeps getting bunched up and sticking out the end. It is long enough to stick out so you can detach it from the other ribbon, so is it supposed to fold up inside when you push it in?

    reedc1 - Antwort

    Does anyone know of a source of mainboards for this Nano. Preferably in the European Community or China? Every other part seems to be available but this one.

    I've even found dud mainboards for sale on the U.S. Ebay site. What on earth would anyone do with a faulty Maiboard?

    Pete Green - Antwort

    TOOLS: I've ben reading a few commments regarding difficulty wth the screws. I was also told the Phillips screwdriver isn't a true Phillips but has an offset leg. Not having seen one I can't comment with any certainty.

    However,being an improvisor,I've been doing very well with a couple of watchmakers screwdrivers.The flat blades are about 1mm across and made of hard blued steel. The sharp corners dig into the screw and push any glue out of the way. A phillips won't push though glue. I used to buy these in a small plastic box - usuallly on street markets.

    Pete Green - Antwort

    Well... beware, this part is tricky ! the click-wheel ribbon stuck and get cut when pulling the battery+motherboard out. Too bad :(

    Anyway it was "last chance" for my 7-years old blue nano, battery wasn't providing more than 15 minutes autonomy.

    Too bad, it was my fist iPod and I liked it much than my new 7th gen'.

    Playoff - Antwort

    Your photos are showing the wrong cable being removed from the zip lock connector and freed, you are not showing that the cable coming from the click wheel is disconnected and freed. Your photo is showing that the cable from the logic board is disconnected and freed. This means that when the logic board is removed, the cable to the click wheel breaks. Your text and warnings are correct, but your photos are misleading. Very bad compared to the rest of the instructions in steps 1 - 16, which are excellent and better than anything else I found. A shame to spoil it with this step. It is not sufficient to warn in the text that “both ends of the cable need to be freed”, you have to add a photo showing the click wheel cable has been disconnected and freed (and what do you mean by both ends of the cable need to be freed - there are TWO cables, one to the logic board, one to the click wheel and you are showing the wrong cable to the logic board as being freed.

    John beGood - Antwort

    • Ziehe die Logic Board Einheit aus dem äußeren Gehäuse heraus. Achte darauf, dass sich die Kabel des Hold-Schiebeschalters und des Klickrads nicht verfangen.

    • Sorge beim Zusammenbau dafür, dass das Kabel zum Klickrad auf der Vorderseite des Nanos ist und nicht in den Rillen auf den Seiten. Wenn es sich in einer der Rillen befindet, wirst du es wahrscheinlich beim Einschieben des Logic Boards durchtrennen.

    My click wheel cable got sliced reinserting the logic board, so make sure your click wheel cable is on the front (like the instructions say), and not on the side. It would help if there were explicit reassembly instructions and not just "do these in the reverse order", so that special reassembly notes stand out more.

    Randall Theobald - Antwort

    Instead of pulling it out, I found it easier to use the display hole to push on the top part of the battery straight down toward the bottom of the unit. This gives you far greater control of the battery/mainboard removal operation; you can push it out (down) in tiny increments and confirm no cables are caught as you do it. Pulling can cause a sudden, catastrophic release and if something is caught, it’s destroyed.

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    • Ziehe das Kabel zum Hold-Schiebeschalter von der Kante des Akkus ab und lege es zur Seite. Das Kabel ist nicht am Akku befestigt.

    • Der Akku ist fest mit dem Logic Board verklebt. Du brauchst schon etwas Kraft, um den Akku vom Logic Board zu trennen.

    • Heble den Akku aus der Klebeverbindung zur Metallumfassung auf dem Logic Board.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Der Akku am iPod Nano 4. Generation ist mit Lötpads, die kleine Löcher haben, an der Oberfläche des Logic Boards angeschlossen. Die Löcher gehen durch das Flachbandkabel zum Akku und stellen den Kontakt zu kleinen Lötaugen her. In diesem Schritt wirst du jede einzelne Verbindung entlöten und mit einem Metallspatel vom Logic Board ablösen.

    • Überbrücke dabei nicht mit dem Spudger die Kontaktstellen auf dem Logic Board und am Flachbandkabel. Ein Kurzschluss kann das Logic Board dauerhaft beschädigen.

    • Überhitze weder das Board noch das Kabel. Halte die Lötspitze nur so lange an die Lötstelle, bis das Lötzinn schmilzt. Zu viel Hitze kann das Logic Board zerstören oder das Kabel schmelzen. Lasse das Board abkühlen, bevor du an der nächsten Lötstelle weiterarbeitest.

    • Beginne die Arbeit an einer Seite des Flachbandkabels zum Akku. In diesem Fall wurde auf der linken Seite begonnen. Erwärme die Lötstelle ganz links und heble vorsichtig unter dem Kabel hoch, um es vom Logic Board zu lösen.

    i would suggest instead of using a spudger to push up the battery solding points, instead hold onto the battery and use a slight amount of pressure to pull each point off as you heat them with the soldering gun.

    iTronics Repair - Antwort

    Zitat von iTronics Repair:

    i would suggest instead of using a spudger to push up the battery solding points, instead hold onto the battery and use a slight amount of pressure to pull each point off as you heat them with the soldering gun.

    I did it this way and lifted the center trace off the board. Now the logic board will need to be replaced.

    Tom Buttner - Antwort


    In the course of soldering on the new battery, I bridged a couple of the tiny pads. In my attempt to fix, I delaminated the tiny pads from the new battery's lead. So I reattached the old battery's circuit and leads, and then soldered the new battery (cut from its board) to the old battery circuit.

    To do this, simply remove the tape from the end of the battery, unfold the leads, and unsolder the two pads that connect the battery to its board. Do the same with the new battery, and then solder the two leads from the new battery to the old board.

    I believe this is an easier way of fixing (assuming the battery is dead, and the circuit attached to the battery is fine, as mine was. My wife dropped the ipod in water).

    Bradley Borch - Antwort

    When desoldering, you should REALLY be using braid instead of just "pulling up". That makes it 100x easier.

    Drew Jensen - Antwort

    I used scissors to very quickly cut the ribbon cable off close to the battery so it’s not in the way. Work under a microscope if you have one — I taped the logic board down with black electrical tape so it stays centered in the field and is easier to work with. Note that there is adhesive on this cable (at the top in the above photo) which should be carefully pried loose before desoldering. I used tweezers to grip the ribbon cable, one terminal at a time while heating with the soldering tip. Without the battery hanging there, you have a good feel for how much pressure is being applied. It was very clear when it was melted loose (comes off with no resistance and no prying, which leaves the pads intact) because there’s no heavy battery hanging on in the way nor adhesive working against you. This also avoids the possibility of shorts electrically damaging the logic board.

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    I forgot to add, my soldering station was set to 590 degrees Fahrenheit, for both desoldering and resoldering the new battery. I taped down the new battery cable with a very small triangle of tape prior to soldering — align it; tape it in place, put a little solder on your tip and just touch. It melts right through the hole, and bonds. Then remove the tape and solder the other two terminals (then I also remelted the first one). I would not want to do this job without a 1X-3X microscope! Always let the board cool completely between terminals as the guide suggests. There is a reason surface mount work is almost exclusively done by machines or with hot air and skilled technicians.

    Don’t apply any upward force to a SMT pad, ever! If it doesn’t release on 1st attempt, don’t continue heating. Let it cool and try again in 10 minutes. Most components and pads are rated for only 5 seconds of melt temp. (and very little force). Cut off the dead battery and detach adhesive so you can feel what you’re doing.

    Barry L. Kramer - Antwort

    • Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt für die beiden übrigen Lötstellen. Arbeite entweder von links nach rechts, oder von rechts nach links.

    • Jetzt sollte der Akku frei vom Logic Board sein.

    • Hebe den alten Akku aus dem Nano und lege ihn beiseite.

    Me too lifted the center pad off the board :( :( :(

    Can the center pad of the battery be wired to a point wich is connected to center pad?

    I mean, does anybody know where to wire center battery pad when logic board's center pad is lifted?

    perepe - Antwort


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There is one small point which is worth a mention here.After disconnnecting the screen by flicking up a little black bit on the ZIF Connector, I went on to open the next ZiF (The Click Switch)

Yes- bits of ZIF connector everywhere.I actually had to examine a new Click Switch circuit carefully to find that this one is different.

Yes - you flick the White bit. Do apple do this just to keep us on our toes?

Pete Green - Antwort

I have taken the nano apart and started to use a solder iron to remove the old battery. I must have pulled on the battery before fully melting the solder and have pulled off two of the three tabs from the board.

Can this be fixed?

Vicente - Antwort

I tried what Bradley suggested because it really seems easier than to solder the new battery to the iPod circuit board, which is really tiny. Still I couldn't do it. The battery pads are very fragile and I had an hard time folding the leads and the battery circuit board so that it looked the way it originally was. This was the part where I failed because afterwards I wasn't able to insert the battery plus the iPod circuit board inside its case again and ended it breaking it.

ruigsantos - Antwort

When I soldered my battery in I first touched the top and bottom of the pads on the new battery with flux and then added a little solder to the top and bottom of the pads. When I put the pads in place I only had to apply a quick touch and it soldered on perfectly.

Overall it was a real pain! :)

Rene Jeddore - Antwort

After 3 hours of hard work I did it !

It's the first time I try such a job, and I found it "quite easy" to change the battery with the guide. Just follow the pictures and you'll be done.

The hard work for me was the solder part - and a friend of mine gave me a hand as he was more used to do this.

You can do it, it worth a try :)

maxdelamure - Antwort

He forgot step one where it says "Go on Amazon and purchase a new Ipod."

haaren - Antwort

Was able to do it, but got lucky with the soldering working out before I burned it beyond repair. If you're going to do this I recommend getting the toolkit! Or at least having an exacto knife, very tiny phillips screwdriver, and tweezers and PATIENCE. Also be sure to have a very sharp tip soldering iron, and I used .032 soldering wire - but a bit smaller would work too. Also the most important thing is be able to see very small close up details, or use reading glasses or a microscope. Honestly if I had to do it again, I wouldn't - but I love the scroll wheel on the 4th gen over the touch screens and also wanted a challenge. Be prepared to fail, but do your best! Good luck.

baranowskijoe - Antwort

Awesome directions.

williamauld1964 - Antwort

I have soldered for almost 20 years, for occasional hobby stuff. I'm nowhere near an expert (some people are amazing!), but I am quite experienced. I have a good power soldering iron with interchangeable tips. I've also repaired countless phones, ipods, computers, etc. But this stupid thing kicked my butt. I hate dealing with such tiny components, and I hate dealing with Apple's fear of exposed fasteners.

Just buy a new one at this point.

Jon Miller - Antwort

Great instructions. Very easy job to complete if you work carefully and follow each step. Pictures were a big help. If you are not experienced with a soldering iron, I recommend getting help with this part. It is very easy to overheat these tiny components and make a mess of the whole job. Comments above seem to reinforce this point.

chuckjohnson89 - Antwort

Hello Chuck. I have a blue iPod Nano 4th Generation in perfect condition that needs a battery swap. I don’t have time to set aside to swap it yet don’t want to see it in a landfill. If you shoot me your address I’d be happy to send you this unit for you to keep if you don’t mind doing another battery swap. Kind Regards.

Dan Lee -

Is there anywhere Uk I can send this to be done by someone more expert ? I don;t want to tackle it myself. My son picked it up in a charity shop and it worked for a bit, but then died, defiantly the battery problem.

derekndonna - Antwort

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