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Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des rechten Lautsprechers gezeigt. Der Lautsprecher befindet sich bei Normalbetrieb auf der rechten Seite, bei der Reparatur wird das Gerät aber oft umgedreht, dann findest du ihn auf der linken Seite. Achte darauf, wirklich den richtigen Lautsprecher auszutauschen und halte das passende Ersatzteil bereit.

    • Bevor du anfängst, fahre dein MacBook herunter. Schließe das Display und lege dein MacBook mit der Unterseite nach oben auf eine weiche Unterlage.

    • Benutze einen P5 Pentalobe-Schraubendreher, um folgende zehn Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen das untere Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Zwei 9 mm Schrauben

    • Acht 2,6 mm Schrauben

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Antwort

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Antwort

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Antwort

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Antwort

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Antwort

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Antwort

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Antwort

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Antwort

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Antwort

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Antwort

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Antwort

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Antwort

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Antwort

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Antwort

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Antwort

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Antwort

    To add to this. In searching for the P5 screwdriver to buy in UK, as far as I can tell, it is also known as

    Pentalobe 1.2(mm)

    also

    P4 = 0.8

    P6 = 1.5

    Just unscrewed the back case of MacBook Air 13” mid 2011, with no problems using Pentalobe 1.2

    nijafe -

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Antwort

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Antwort

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Antwort

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Antwort

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Antwort

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Antwort

    Gently pulled out connector of old battery, then pressed and held the power switch for 1 minute. Unscrewed and removed the old battery. Pressed and held power switch for 1 minute again. I know from previous work that this helps drain charge from spontaneous recharging as the dielectric recovers. Gently “fine tuned” leads from new battery to connector till connector stuck out at right angle to the edge of battery. Held the battery by the edges and let the connector slide into the socket. Set the battery down and put the screws in all the way. Then checked that the connector was completely seated before tightening the screws. The laptop come on immediately and showed 98% charge and registered normal (checked in “About this Mac”. Very happy to this point. Now for calibration.

    Amir Zaidi - Antwort

    Thank you very much for the guilde. My MBA2011 had reborn !

    Billy Wong - Antwort

    Allow for electrostatics, otherwise you may cook components on the logicboard /motherboard (like I did with one of these!)

    See great advice: Electrostatic Discharge

    Fletcher Cole - Antwort

  1. Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.
    • Löse das hintere Gehäuse vom Air, indem du mit den Fingerspitzen zwischen Display und Gehäuse gehst und es nach oben ziehst.

    • Entferne das hintere Gehäuse und lege es beiseite.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

    To add - the slim 1cm tab “nub” is on the centre of the back cover & fits into a hole in the battery frame. I ran my fingers around the whole of the cover to eventually here it click out.

    nijafe -

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Antwort

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Antwort

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Antwort

    I bought the part and tools from iFixit and followed the directions. The mechanical part went smoothly - maybe 10 minutes to disassemble/replace/reassemble.

    Getting Catalina (the current MacOS) to install was not working until I used Cmd-Opt-R (as noted in the OWC paper sheet that came in the box) which brought up the proper installer - I believe from a pre-prepared bootable SD card but it’s hard to say. From there the install succeeded taking ~1.5 hours.

    Beware that (a) the install requires a working internet connection for verification and updates, and (b) the system must have been running at least macOs 10.13 (High Sierra) before the install in order to have an EFI BIOS that recognizes the SSD.

    Lance Berc - Antwort

  2. Entferne die folgenden 5 Schrauben, mit denen die Batterie am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
    • Entferne die folgenden 5 Schrauben, mit denen die Batterie am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Drei 6,9 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    • Zwei 3,0 mm T5 Torx Schrauben

    what is that little hole or clip in the middle o battery?

    Edy Surpat - Antwort

    There’s both a hole for a screw and a clip to hold the bottom case

    maccentric -

  3. Vermeide es, den Akku  zu quetschen oder die vier freiliegenden Lithium Polymer Zellen  zu berühren.
    • Vermeide es, den Akku zu quetschen oder die vier freiliegenden Lithium Polymer Zellen zu berühren.

    • Hebe den Akku von der Seite des Logic Boards aus an und entferne ihn vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einbaust, solltest du ihn nach dem Einbau kalibrieren :

    • Lade den Akku vollständig und lasse das MacBook danach für mindestens 2 Stunden weiter eingesteckt. Verwende jetzt das MacBook, bis es wegen geringem Akkustand von selbst in den Standby-Modus geht. Warte jetzt noch mindestens 5 Stunden, bevor du das MacBook wieder auf 100% auflädst.

    • Wenn nach dem Einbau des neuen Akkus Probleme auftreten, kann es helfen, den SMC zurückzusetzen.

    Personally I would like a short description on why we have to calibrate a brand new battery for what reason?

    Albert - Antwort

    @albertnumber1 You can find a detailed explanation of calibration here. The short(ish) answer is that the battery charge % reading on your device is really just a guess, one that is generated by a mathematical model of what’s going on inside the chemical battery. That model needs data points (like full charge and discharge flags) in order to work correctly. Without calibration, nothing bad will happen, but you may get some unreliable battery % readings.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    1. Glad someone was able to clear up the reason we need to calibrate

    2. During the process, if for some reason, say my cat waltzing all over my desk, disconnects the magsafe for a moment while in the final full charge cycle, what impact would this have?

    joshuafiddler - Antwort

    Anyone else get that the apple diagnostic tool still reports a malfunctioning battery after replacement?

    joshuafiddler - Antwort

    The replacement battery’s connector didn’t align with the port as easily as the original’s. Instead of pointing straight back from the battery, the cable pointed at a significant angle. In order to connect the new battery, I had to hold it a slight diagonal angle while connecting it, before placing the new battery into the chassis and securing it.

    After replacing the battery, the laptop (MBA early 2015) shut off immediately whenever it was unplugged from the MagSafe connector, despite reporting a full charge. To resolve this, I performed an SMC reset: I re-opened the case, unplugged the battery, held down the power button for 5 seconds with the battery unplugged, then re-connected the battery, re-attached the lid, and pressed the power button again. It immediately booted up as expected on battery power.

    Garrett Guillotte - Antwort

    I’ve noticed in the last year the battery life on my MacBook has declined, but I still get a reasonable 3-5 hours depending on what doing. I was wondering what the battery life would be like if I was to replace my battery?

    Tinashe Pelekamoyo - Antwort

    I found these two little broken tabs under the battery. Not sure where they came from, but Ididn’t put them back in anywhere.

    https://1drv.ms/u/s!As3YRQaTlkClgcgS6Hhl...

    Norm Hils - Antwort

  4. Hebele den Stecker des rechten Lautsprechers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.
    • Hebele den Stecker des rechten Lautsprechers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch und aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    • Hebele unter den Drähten.

  5. Hebele den rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zum oberen Gehäuse. Entferne den rechten Lautsprecher vom oberen Gehäuse. Entferne den rechten Lautsprecher vom oberen Gehäuse.
    • Hebele den rechten Lautsprecher mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus der Klebeverbindung zum oberen Gehäuse.

    • Entferne den rechten Lautsprecher vom oberen Gehäuse.

    Where can I find a tube of this non-permanent tacky adhesive?

    airshack - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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Sam Goldheart

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Anleitung ist perfekt. Läuft einwandfrei.

Lediglich beim Lösen des angeklebten Lautsprechers muss man etwas aufpassen. Sonst erste Sahne!

Z-City - Antwort

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