Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um den Akku deines Nexus 6P auszutauschen.

Beim Wiederzusammenbau wird neuer Klebstoff benötigt.

Es ist möglich, die Rückabdeckung mit einem iOpener zu öffnen, wie in den Abbildungen hier gezeigt wird, allerdings ist es eine langwierige und schwierige Prozedur. Wir empfehlen ein Heißluftgebläse oder Ähnliches. Der Klebstoff des Nexus 6P ist sehr stark und besonders die Glas- und Plastikabdeckungen auf der Rückseite brechen oder biegen leicht.
  • Es ist möglich, die Rückabdeckung mit einem iOpener zu öffnen, wie in den Abbildungen hier gezeigt wird, allerdings ist es eine langwierige und schwierige Prozedur. Wir empfehlen ein Heißluftgebläse oder Ähnliches. Der Klebstoff des Nexus 6P ist sehr stark und besonders die Glas- und Plastikabdeckungen auf der Rückseite brechen oder biegen leicht.

  • Verwende ein SIM Card Eject Tool, um den SIM-Kartenschacht zu entfernen.

  • Verwende einen iOpener, um den Klebstoff unter der kleinen Plastikabdeckung an der Unterseite des Smartphones zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Die Klinge ist sehr scharf. Sei vorsichtig,  nicht dich selbst oder das Smartphone zu schneiden.
  • Die Klinge ist sehr scharf. Sei vorsichtig, nicht dich selbst oder das Smartphone zu schneiden.

  • Führe das Messer zwischen Smartphone und Plastikabdeckung ein. Heble die Plastikabdeckung hoch, bist du ein Opening Pick einführen kannst

  • Ziehe das Opening Pick unter der Plastikabdeckung entlang, um den Klebstoff zu zerteilen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Verwende einen iOpener, um den Klebstoff unter der Glasabdeckung zu lösen.

  • Führe ein Messer zwischen Smartphone und Glasabdeckung ein. Heble die Glasabdeckung hoch, bis du ein Opening Pick einführen kannst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Das Glas kann brechen. Trage eine Schutzbrille und Schutzhandschuhe.

  • Ziehe das Opening Pick unter der Glasabdeckung entlang, um den Kleber darunter zu zerteilen.

  • Heble die Glasabdeckung weg.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Verwende eine Pinzette, um die Flüssigkeitsanzeiger-Aufkleber zu entfernen.

  • Entferne die sechs Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Führe ein Messer zwischen der Metallrückabdeckung und dem Frontglas ein, um einen Spalt zu erzeugen. Führe ein Opening Pick in den Spalt ein und schiebe es bis zur oberen rechten Ecke.

    • Die Klinge ist sehr scharf, sei vorsichtig, nicht dich oder dein Smartphone zu schneiden.

  • Führe ein weiteres Opening Pick ein und ziehe es bis zur oberen linken Ecke.

  • Ziehe die Opening Picks an den Kanten entlang, um die Plastikclips zu lösen, die Rückabdeckung und Mittelrahmen aneinander befestigen.

  • Entferne die Rückabdeckung.

There is a black plastic band around the front glass. So stick the razor between the metal back and outside of the black plastic that is around the front glass. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the black plastic strip outside of the front glass. If you stick it between the black plastic and screen you could leave the mid frame in the metal case and only lift up the the glass and screen.

igolten - Antwort

  • Entferne die Kreuzschlitzschraube #000.

  • Verwende eine Pinzette, um die Metallplatte zu entfernen.

While I performed this step, the three ribbon cables from the next step came up attached to the metal plate.

Troy Gaddis - Antwort

As a head’s up the metal plate needs to be removed from the left side first because it does slide under another piece of metal close to the fingerprint scanner. Upon reassembly insert the right side first and then push the left side down. You will know if you have it in correctly if the plate cannot move freely if the screw is in even a little bit.

Michael Stefanchik - Antwort

There is glue on the underside of metal plate that made it a little harder to pull up the plate than we expected. The flex cables did not come up with the plate, but it was a surprise.

Catherine Adams - Antwort

  • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die drei Flachbandkabel zu trennen.

While I was performing this, the three flat ribbon cables were stuck to the metal plate and came up with it. Watch out for that possibility.

Troy Gaddis - Antwort

  • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Verbindungskabel von der Tochterplatine zu trennen.

  • Verwende einen iOpener, um den Klebstoff unter dem Akku zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Achtung: führe den Spudger oder die Plastikkarte nicht zu tief unter den Akku ein. Das Displaykabel verläuft unter dem Akku.

    • Schau in den nächsten Schritt, um zu sehen, wo das Kabel liegt.

  • Führe das flache Ende eines Spudgers bis zur Einkerbung unter den Akku und ziehe ihn seitlich entlang, um den Kleber zu zerteilen.

  • Verwende eine Plastikkarte, um den restlichen Klebstoff auf der linken Seite unter dem Akku durchzuteilen.

The display cable seems to be completely attached to backing, not free to move at all. The warning made me think it would be floating between the battery and the back of the battery area, however this is not the case. You shouldn’t need to worry too much about it, but you also don’t need to stick anything that deep since the adhesive isn’t where the display cable is. You can see where the adhesive is in the picture for the next step. It’s the black sort of rectangular-ish pad to the right of the display cable. There’s a second taller adhesive pad on the left side of the display cable which must’ve stuck to the battery when they removed it for this guide. When I took the battery out both of the adhesive pads stayed attached to the battery.

Cory Miller - Antwort

Thanks, Cory. This is exactly what we saw, too!

Catherine Adams -

  • Entferne den Akku.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

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In case anyone is wondering, I was able to get the two small back covers to reassemble without using new adhesive. I didn’t have any on hand so I just used a heat gun to warm the adhesive that was left over and firmly held them in place. So far it seems to be holding well.

Vince Cipriani - Antwort

Adhesive? I’m wondering what kind of adhesive to use for reassembly?

antoine courtemanche - Antwort

Didn’t need any additional adhesive and the iopener worked fine for both loosening adhesive for disassembly and getting it sticky again for reassembly.. Managed not to break the glass camera cover!

antoine courtemanche -

any tips on using the iOpener for the top glass? It dosen’t seem to be helping me at all. :(

Ellison Gregg - Antwort

These were great instructions, but have to admit this was quite a hair-raising process because of the amount of heat that was required to soften the adhesive and the amount of force needed to pry things apart. Luckily, I have a digital hot air source (Sparkfun 303D) used for surface mount electronics. The safe temperature ended up being about 200 F. If I did it again would be much easier because I know the glass piece at the top is not as fragile as I thought. So, heat gun, definitely. iOpener would be next to useless, especially to loosen under battery. But be careful not to concentrate the heat and melt plastic or make glass crack. Adhesive under battery definitely reusable, easy to peel off old battery. Go slow with the whole process and it will be successful!

Andris Vizulis - Antwort

I did mine today. Besides a couple scuffs that are covered by a bumper it is like new again.

My tips: when removing the back glued on parts start at the ends, not middle and use a lot of heat. Mine came up really easy once it got to temp. The case was harder than if thought. I started near the lower speaker. The obvious looking place to pry up is wrong, the outside case lip is very thin and it's easy to try digging up the screen, not the case. Getting the battery out just required a bit more force than I would have thought. But it's all back together and works like new again.

Ed Willson - Antwort

Thanks! Wasn’t too bad of a process, but I was expecting the worst. Getting the battery out was the hardest part in my opinion because it was hard to get the glue in that area soft enough.

Tyler Young - Antwort

I am happy to report that I was able to do this repair successfully. The hardest parts were removing the glass back (covering the camera) and prying the outside case away from the rest of the phone unit. I definitely purchased the “Technicians Razor Set'“ and am glad I did. I used all the tools listed in the guide (most of which I had earlier from a larger kit). I used the blade that is a rectangle that has a sloping / graded end so that it is real thin at the point of entry and allows you to pry a bit. I tried with the standard “exacto-knife” type end but it didn’t seem to do the trick for me plus I felt it was dangerous to push with force with something that sharp.

Use a heat gun. If you have a hair dryer that gets pretty hot that might work as well. A cheap heat gun makes this SOO much easier. I also happened to have one of those laser surface temperature readers and got the glass up to about 180 Fahrenheit which works well. I got the plastic bottom piece to about 150 to get the glue underneath gooey.

Troy Gaddis - Antwort

Great guide; detailed and helpful! Just replaced the battery! Great pictures, too, as it really helped me understand the layout of the internals. I bought the battery from ifixit and the essential electronics toolkit that they sell as well. I honestly don’t think I could have done it without that essential electronics toolkit. I certainly don’t have some of those bits and tools on hand.

Good:

I was able to successfully remove the top part (the glass part) without breaking it. I did reuse it again. I noticed the tiny foam circle that surrounds the camera. If you purchase a replacement glass top part like I did (for the possibility of breaking it when removing it), you may find that the foam circle is a little offset. You also may need to remove the existing foam circle if your replacement glass top has one already attached.

Bad:

The battery’s adhesive is very strong. You will have to work hard to pry the battery off, so don’t panic. Keep at it, little by little.

Michael Sokol - Antwort

Successfully completed the battery replacement guide. We were able to complete the entire replacement process with the iOpener, but it was slow. We used an infrared thermometer to measure the surface temperature of the iOpener and the phone, to ensure we were reaching an optimal temperature (about 150F for the plastic cover, 180F for the glass cover, and 145F for the battery).

The battery was slow to remove due to adhesive; be patient. We bent the battery slightly in the process. The image in the guide showing the phone with the battery removed (the image in Step 11) shows a black glue strip to the right of the display cable. When we removed the battery, we saw two black glue strips; one on each side of the display cable.

Catherine Adams - Antwort

Great guide! I was sure to ruin something at step 6, but everything works perfectly fine. Great guide!

I only have the Pro Tech Toolkit, and only needed a knife. For the iOpener i had a plastic bag in boiling water. It seemed to do the trick for me (filled up a bag with some water an put it in a kettle with more water. When it boiled, wipe off water from the outside of the plastic bag.

Knut Berg-Domås - Antwort

Ich habe meinen Akku gestern getauscht, war eigentlich nicht besonders schwierig mit dieser tollen Anleitung.

Wichtig ist den Kleber mit Wärme zu lösen, dann geht’s recht einfach. Habe dafür einen Heißluftfön auf kleiner Stufe genommen.

Beim “heraushebeln” der Platine muß man schauen wo man die Klinge einführt, ich war anfangs einen Millimeter zu weit innen und somit ließ es sich schlecht hebeln weil ich quasi im Platinenteil war.

Beim Zusammenbau habe ich die beiden Abdeckungen oben und unten nur wieder festgedrückt und dann nochmal ein wenig erwärmt, dadurch mußte ich keinen neuen Kleber verwenden.

Dirk Heimann - Antwort

I managed to damage both the top and bottom back pieces (steps 2 & 4). Fortunately, Amazon sells replacements. Got them on order now. The rest of the repair went fine, though. 6P is reassembled and charging.

Steve DeGroof - Antwort

Thank you for the excellent guide.

Battery replacement took 3/4 of an hour. Most of this time was waiting patiently for the adhesive to soften on the glass and plastic screw covers. I used my Aoyue 2738 rework station hot air gun at 130 C, this gave me a surface temp of 180 F by my Fluke 52 temp probe. Not having the iFixIt Technician’s razor kit, I resorted to a #11 surgical blade that I normally use for mold making; which worked well enough, apart from my inept handling on the plastic screw cover. BUY the Technicians razor kit.

Also, there is a pry point for the battery directly beneath the buttons that the spudger fits into perfectly I used this to create a gap to allow the hot air to soften the adhesive holding the battery in place. I found that the Jimmy tool worked very well as a lever to hold the battery away from the case; which allowed the hot air to separate the old battery from the adhesive. This obviated inserting any tool deeply enough to damage the cable running beneath the battery.

jms - Antwort

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