Einleitung

Hier wird gezeigt, wie du deine Festplatte austauschen oder aufrüsten kannst.

    • Wenn sich beim Reparieren das Gelenk des Fußes frei bewegen kann, ist es schwierig am iMac zu arbeiten. Mit Hilfe unserer iMac Reparaturhilfe geht es leichter und schneller.

    • Bevor du anfängst am iMac zu reparieren: Ziehe den Netzstecker. Drücke den Einschaltknopf und halte ihn 10 Sekunden lang gedrückt. Du entlädtst dadurch die Kondensatoren im Netzteil.

    • Sei sehr vorsichtig und greife keine Leitungen oder Lötstellen auf der Rückseite der Netzteilplatine an. Fasse die Platine nur an den Kanten an.

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  1. Beginne an der linken Seite des Displays, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Das Glaspanel  und das Rückgehäuse.
    • Beginne an der linken Seite des Displays, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Das Glaspanel und das Rückgehäuse.

    • Das iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 0,95cm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel zu durchtrennen und großen Schaden anzurichten.

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    • Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes und es wird den Schaumkleber in der Mitte durchschneiden.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Displayseite.

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    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

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    • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Displayseite durch.

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    • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen Displayseite durch.

    • Du solltest mit dem Gerät immer etwas durch den Teil vor- und zurückrollen, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

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    • Fahre nun mit dem Werkzeug um die obere rechte Ecke des Displays.

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    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Displayseite abwärts.

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    • Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.

    • Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

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    • Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt das Display immer noch etwas am Rahmen. Eine Plastikkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.

    • Lege den iMac mit dem Display nach oben auf einen Tisch.

    • Beginne an der oberen rechten Ecke des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Display und Rahmen.

    • Achte darauf, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 0,95cm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, dass Komponenten im Inneren beschädigt werden.

    Don't forget to place the mac face up on the table. Unlike older models, there is no more flap at the bottom holding the display in place. If you do these steps with the Mac upright, the screen will pop out, hit your table, and shatter :( Don't ask me how I know.

    John M - Antwort

    So sorry. Thanks for that caution.

    Ted Horodynsky - Antwort

    John. May I contact outside of this posting for a question please? Thank you. Ted.

    Ted Horodynsky - Antwort

    • Drehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Display und Rahmen zu vergrößern.

    • Bewege die Karte vorsichtig und langsam, und beanspruche das DIsplayglas nicht übermäßig. Eine Lücke von einem halben Zentimeter ist ausreichend.

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    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Mitte des Displays, um den Rest des Klebers an der oberen rechten Ecke durchzutrennen.

    • Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.

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    • Schiebe die Karte wieder in die obere rechte Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber das Display wieder festklebt.

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    • Schiebe eine zweite Karte in den Spalt zwischen Display und Rahmen an der oberen linken Ecke des iMacs.

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    • Drehe die Karte vorsichtig nach oben, um den Abstand zwischen Display und Rahmen leicht zu vergrößern.

    • Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Displayglas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

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    • Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der iSight Kamera auf.

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    • Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke.

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    • Schiebe beide Plastikkarten zwischen Display und Gehäuse und fange an, sie leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Display zu vergrößern.

    • Wenn Teile des Displays sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, höre auf zu drehen und nimm eine der Karten, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.

    • Beginne, die obere Seite des Displays vom Rahmen hochzuheben.

    • Hebe das Display nur einige Zentimeter an. Es ist immer noch durch das Display-Datenkabel und das Stromversorgungskabel mit dem Logic Board des iMacs verbunden.

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    • Während du das Display mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel des Displays. Achte darauf, dass du das Kabel nur an der Plastiklasche herausziehst, und nicht an den farbigen Drähten.

    • Hebe den Display nur so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

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    • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Display-Datenkabels mit einem Spudger hoch.

    • Ziehe das Display-Datenkabel vorsichtig aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte darauf, dass du das Display-Datenkabel gerade aus dem Sockel herausziehst.

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    • Hebe den Bildschirm an, bis er fast senkrecht ist.

    • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

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    • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den unteren Klebestreifen vollständig zu abzutrennen.

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    • Hebe den Bildschirm nach oben aus dem Rahmen und entferne ihn aus dem iMac heraus.

    • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

    • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du an dieser Stelle mit Hilfe unserer Anleitung zum Ersetzen von Klebestreifen am iMac Intel 21,5" EMC 2544 die alten Klebeverbindungen ganz ablösen und neues doppelseitiges Klebeband wieder anbringen.

    After removing the display, I also removed the 3 screws for the processor fan, disconnected the power connector for it and set the fan shroud aside. Disconnecting the remaining cable (similar style to 1 of the cables for the display) that is in the way of the RAM chips is all that's left to do. I was then able to access and quickly remove the two Apple-provided RAM chips, and replace them with 3rd party RAM. Turning the iMac on its side, so that it's in a position where you're physically putting the RAM chips DOWNWARD into their respective slots is the best way to go about uninstalling and reinstalling the chips. Using a narrow but long'ish plastic spudger tool is the best way to defeat the spring-tabs which hold the RAM chips in place. After removing the LCD display, changing the RAM is about a 10 minute process!! And I'd SURE prefer not to remove all the parts and risk damage to the iMac via the standard procedure listed. As per usual, take your time and work gently :-)

    Mitch K - Antwort

    Teardown the whole machine just to change RAM? While preparing to comment on this procedure I just noticed the comment made by Mitch K above. I ran pretty much the same procedure that he describes this afternoon (steps 1-23, 43-45, and step 55). Then I swapped out the original 2x4GB RAM chips for 2x8GB chips by reaching behind the logic board, releasing the spring retaining clips one chip at a time (starting with the chip further away from the logic board), pivoting the RAM towards the back of the machine, and then carefully sliding it out of the slot. I easily slid in the new chips and then pivoted them to lock them down. No hassle, no time lost. As Mitch K states above, not only is this “shortcut” method much quicker and easier, but it provides less risk of damaging cables, sockets and other delicate components during a total teardown. Why mess with the power supply board just to change RAM? I do not advise to follow the current iFixit.com procedure written by Sam Lionheart, regardless of user skill-level.

    MacSandor - Antwort

    THAT sounds one !&&* of a lot easier than the full tear down. I wonder if there’s a video of the process described by Mitch K? Adding that to these verbal instructions would really help relieve the apprehension and anxiety around the process! I do sometimes find the additional warnings, though appreciated from a “safety first” perspective, are somewhat overstated. It’s been a very long time since I shorted out RAM, or fried a PCB, or broke a connector, regardless of how finicky, fragile or awkwardly designed and positioned. I may have WANTED to break something, and the air might be blue for a few seconds, but inevitably, things go back together, the start button gets pressed, the startup chime sounds, and we’re in business. Practice DOES make as close to perfect we are likely to get.

    bruce - Antwort

    • Entferne folgende Torx T10 Schrauben, welche die Festplattenhalterung am Rückgehäuse befestigen:

      • Zwei 21 mm Schrauben an der linksseitigen Festplattenhalterung

      • Eine 9 mm Schraube

      • Eine 27 mm Schraube

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    • Entferne die links- und rechtsseitige Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

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    • Hebe die Festplatte am Rand in der Nähe des Lüfters hoch und ziehe sie etwas aus ihrer Vertiefung heraus.

    • Die Festplatte ist noch mit zwei Kabeln angeschlossen, versuche noch nicht sie ganz aus dem iMac zu entfernen.

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    • Löse das SATA Stromversorgungskabel.

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    • Löse den Stecker des SATA Datenkabels von der Festplatte.

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    • Hebe die Festplatte hoch und entferne sie vom iMac.

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    • Löse die flexible Festplattenhülle von der oberen linken Ecke der Festplatte ab.

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    • Fahre mit dem Ablösen der Festplattenhülle aus der Klebeverbindung zum Laufwerk fort.

    • Entferne die Hülle von der Festplatte.

    • Die Festplatte bleibt übrig.

    Followed the instructions in this guide using the included tool that I got with the strips. Everything worked great. Put in a brand new Samsung 850 Evo 250GB Drive. The guide makes it sound a little bit more complicated but everything went pretty smooth. Just took it slow and easy.

    Michael Conrad - Antwort

    About torx is this good or what should I buy? https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00CIIM...=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Matteo Raggi - Antwort

    If replacing with an SSD, do you just use a mount? (I’ve don't this replacement in 27” models and the hard drive doesn’t have a silicone casing so I’m wondering how to get around this)

    Arispa Weigold - Antwort

    Great guide. I wanted to upgrade my late 2012 as much as I could to accommodate my large iTunes library. So with a little bit of cutting on the rubber hard drive cushion, I put a 15mm 5 TB hard drive and replaced the 120GB blade SSD with OWC’s 1 TB blade SSD. Now have 5.95 TB of fast usable space with my fusion drive.

    tednmandy - Antwort

Abschluss

Um deinen iMac wieder zusammenzubauen, folge diesen Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge und benutze unsere Klebeanleitung, um das Displayglas wieder anzukleben.

178 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

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Sam Lionheart

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I used the iMac Opening Tool just as shown in this guide to separate the tape. DISASTER! The screen cracked! I used the tool slowly and carefully and despite this, the screen cracked. I should have simply used a guitar pick. That said, while I was inside my iMac replacing the Harddisk with a SSD, which was pretty easy to do, I decided to also see if I could replaced the 8GB RAM with 16GB RAM WITHOUT removing the logic board, as shown in other instructions on this site. I found that by simply removing the fan assembly, this makes enough room to reach behind the logic board and unclip the 2 memory modules. I installed 2 8GB modules (1600MHz DDR3L SO-DIMM PC12800 204 Pin) without much trouble. I used a plastic stick to reach behind the logic board and unclip the existing memory modules, then carefully inserted the new ones and clipped them into place. This is much easier than removing the power supply and logic board and all of the associated connectors and screws.

gcortesi - Antwort

I had to replace the HD as it failed after less than two years. It was a good opportunity to increase the RAM from 8 to 16 GB. So I ordered the RAM chips from Kingston and a 256 GB SSD from Angelbird.

The repair went smoothly: to anyone trying this, please carefully follow the iFixit step-by-step guide. I recommend reading at least twice the whole procedure *before* beginning. Check all the photos. During the operation itself, I had the guide open before my eyes on my iPad and followed it step by step. The opening tool is a bit fragile, the wheel got damaged after the operation, but I guess it was designed to be used only once. After all, the adhesive strips can also be used only once!

For those replacing the hard-disk with an SSD: I highly recommend the Angelbird model "SSD wrk for Mac" (http://www.angelbird.com/en/prod/ssd-wrk...), for several dollars more you spare yourself the need to use additional software to enable TRIM or persuade the fans of your Mac that the HD's temperature is Ok.

lix - Antwort

Thanks for the tip on the Angelbird, working smoothly so far!

Elling -

Hi! Thanks for the tip! Do you know if can I put an SSD on an imac 21.5 in late 2012 ?

Tania Diego -

after changing the hard drive the monitor no longer works. Apple won't fix it because I opened it, and third-part wants to charge me $300-500. Hope you guys have better luck!

max - Antwort

Very simple so long as you take your time. I had the benefit of an on site screen replacement so could see what the tech did. A few tips inc links to photos.

1. Use a marker to draw a line on the plastic card so you can see the max depth.

http://imgur.com/cyjlRqo

2. Use sticky tape either side of Apple logo on the front of the iMac, you can then position and rest the screen on the lower ledge in the right place, hold with the tape (don't remove the adhesive backing tape at this stage). The tape then acts as a hinge so screen can be lowered and raised to refit connectors and remove backing tape. More tape at top will allow you to trial fit and test prior to sealing the screen back on. It's what the Applecare tech did when he changed the screen!!

http://imgur.com/PyPNsdE

http://imgur.com/IqRFsTt

3. Be careful when removing old adhesive. Screen has a black plastic type backing to it (this forms the black frame that you see from the front) and is easy to peel and damage.

http://imgur.com/Nntas1f

finepics - Antwort

Good input. I just ordered the strips to swap my HD with a SSD. I've tested i via USB but it keeps getting corrupted, second SSD too and people say it's the fact that I'm running it via USB. So now I'm ready for the big step and actually taking apart my iMac :)

Tape seems like an excellent idea. What's that silvery tape you used?

Daniel Mores -

Excellent guide and parts. My late 2012 iMac hard drive failed. As a side note, it passed SMART and Apple Diagnostics but was extremely slow - only about 5 MB/s transfer. In the logs I would occasionally see ioError but rarely.

[br]

I bought a new Retina iMac before attempting to fix this one. I'm a retired programmer and fixed computers all the time when I was young and could see better. So I was a little apprehensive about doing this but it went off without a glitch.

[br]

finepics comment and images above was helpful. Not mentioned was you need to clean off the adhesive from both the display and the iMac body. I wasn't sure if the black stuff on the display was supposed to stay as a mask but researching tech notes elsewhere said to remove it and that was correct.

[br]

Thanks so much to ifixit! I'm a long way from an Apple Store so this saved a lot of inconvenience as well as money. I bought an SSD to replace hard drive and that was less than just the labor from Apple.

steveo - Antwort

This was a very straightforward repair and a lot easier than I imagined. I'm coming from a background of working on iPhones & iPads, this was a breeze in comparison. It took me only a few minutes to open it with the recommended tools. The adhesive was really easy to remove and replace as well. I could probably do the next one in less than half an hour from start to finish (excluding the time it takes to install the OS). Thank you for this guide!

My recommendation for anyone trying this, buy the service wedge. If it's your own iMac, it's definitely worth it if you need to open it up again. If you're in the repair business, it's a no-brainer. It tilts and holds the iMac at the perfect position to repair the device and the perfect position to lay the screen on the iMac before you seal it up.

jacob - Antwort

I replaced the hard drive following the guide and used the adhesive strips which are a must.

You DO NEED to be very careful with the step of the "credit card" used to separate the screen from the frame.

Make sure to design a reference line on the card in order to avoid to push it too far inside the frame and risk to damage the screen connections. Many users failed to perform this part of the repair procedure and had to replace the screen itself.

Patrick Putignano - Antwort

I followed this perfect guide and I replaced the HD with a SSD of Kingston. The iMac comes on because you hear the usual "going" but the screen remains black. I tried to connect an external monitor and is the same black. What may have happened?

TOMMASO CONVERSANO - Antwort

Same here, I replaced Samsung Evo 850 SSD, I can hear the start sound but it never show the Apple logo. The screen remains black.

Yas -

Will I have fan problems replacing my HD with an Samsung Evo 850 SSD on my iMac 2012 21.5?

I don't plan on installing fan software. Will this be a problem?

What fan is the one people are saying will run faster? CPU fan?

Will a 2.5 SSD fit fine?

filettransfer - Antwort

Working on an iMac is a lot like working on a laptop. This is an awesome guide, but if you've never done it before it's not a good starter project.

Ian Armstrong - Antwort

Changed the horribly slow original hardrive to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD. Used the opening tool and the cards and everything went very well. Just be sure to follow the instructions very carefully and make sure you buy the adhesive stripes for the reassamble. I also added some extra RAM while opening the machine. I added an extra 8 GB from Crucial (1600MHz DDR3L SO-DIMM PC12800 204 Pin) so now I have 12 GB and that is enough for me. I did as stated above and removed the fan and then you can remove the RAM if you are very carefully. If you do as I did and upgrade only one of slots, one of the slots is very easy to reach. While being inside the machine I also carefully vacuumed the inside since there were som dust in there. My iMac now feels as good as new and is so much faster so the upgrade was well worth it.

Mikael - Antwort

hi, for the fans how you solved? Thank you

Labbrone -

Super facile avec le kit de bandes adhésives et la roulette. J'ai pu remplacer facilement mon HD par un SSD Evo. J'en ai même profité pour remplacer les barrettes de RAM! Piece of cake.

cohou - Antwort

Are the torx screws TR10 (security) or T10 (non-security)?

Kyle Johnson - Antwort

The screws are T10, but TR10 would work just fine!

Sam Lionheart -

Super easy to remove the LCD.

I use a utility knife and slow and carefully go around the LCD (1/4" deep). You can feel the tension as you move it along, so just go through it until the knife blade past every gap smoothly. Just keep going through it until all adhesive is loose and I mean ALL adhesive. At the end the knife should go along the LCD gap without any tension. At that point, just lift it up as described above. It should be so smooth that it feels there's no adhesive at all.

Samuel Kwok - Antwort

Will a 15mm Hard drive fit into this iMac? I can't tell and I'd like to know before attempting the replacement.

mgrayjr - Antwort

Excelente guía !! Instalé un SSD Crucial M550 1 TB y todo salió perfecto, ahora mi iMac 2012 vuela!! Gracias

Roberto Herrera - Antwort

Je viens de réaliser le changement de mon ancien DD par un SSD Samsung 850 Pro de 512Go, juste impressionnant, tout va plus vite!

C’était la première fois que je démontais un ordi, en étant très précautionneux et en suivant le tutoriel à la lettre, aucun souci. Pour le double face, j’ai mis un 3M standard de 6mm de largeur, ça convient parfaitement.

Avant la manip, j’ai utilisé Carbon Copy Cloner en version d’évaluation juste le temps du changement. J’ai retrouvé tout mon environnement après l’installation.

Juste un petit souci sur Microsoft Office qu’il faut réactiver sur le nouveau disque.

David E. - Antwort

No mention of the extra cable needed for temperature control? Is it no longer required?

Walter Poole - Antwort

I do not believe the thermal sensor is required.I recently replaced my old HDD with the Samsung EVO 850 2TB SSD. The HDD was failing and taking 15+ minutes to boot. Not really sure if this had to do with age (6 years old, bought new) or with the fact that my drive had been partitioned; as I have read that some people have had their drives fail early due to partitioning. Regardless, the process was relatively pain-free, and have not had the issue with my fan running at full speed (runs at normal fan speed between 1200-1300 rpm’s). Computer feels brand new, and is now booting from restart in under 12 seconds. This website rocks!

Rapa-Nui Gustafson-Ika - Antwort

Great guide, thanks!

tedcmacdonald - Antwort

bah this is way over complicated, take an exacto knife, put it out one or two clicks, cut off the adhesive, use a playing card or whatever if you need spacers to keep it from resealing, when you seal it back up get some strong velcro tape so you can get back into it later if you need to. If you can start at the camera since there’s no adhesive above it and pull away from it so you don’t scratch it, don’t cut the bottom it will act as a hinge and just come right off after disconnecting the cables. It’s not possible to cut any wires around the edges because there are no wires around the edges unless you go three inches deep.

dongo - Antwort

su’ un imac 2012 sostituendo l’hard disk con un ssd ci sono problemi con i sensori o le ventole vanno al massino?grazie

Francesco - Antwort

I completed this today and it was easier than I had imagined. I have replaced the drives in around 30 of the older iMacs and I was a little annoyed about the screen removal process for this one (which is my daughter’s one)! I couldn’t find a use for the service wedge…

The hardest thing was getting the SATA cable back in, I ended up removing the rubber casing from the new drive and then plugging it in, there was more room and with the help of a spludger it was easy - I then eased the cover back on. I used an intel 545S series 512GB SSD.

My advice when following this guide is to take your time with the iMac opening tool and cards (and mark 3/8 inch on the card with pen) and if you can find an extra pair of hands then that’s good too. I had some help so we didn’t need to completely remove the screen, it just tilted back quite nicely. I didn’t need to worry about replacing the adhesive strips in the hinge area either.

The screen data and power cables were easy to manage.

Thanks!

Suzanne Levy - Antwort

How come there is no mention about using a sensor cable, other sites such as OWC recomend using it for fan control? And also sell one! I remember doing a ssd instal with out it but had to use a fan control software to not make it go crazy, some more detailed info about this would be nice no ? Thanks

dani - Antwort

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